Alright!
I wanted to make sure the recipe was the same for the Lindberg skulls as they appeared just a bit bigger than my older molds.
This doesn't picture well, so just follow what is hopefully some easy instructions:
To make nice, hollow, plaster skulls with plaster of paris, we need to apply 3 layers of Plaster.
Each layer should consist of 1 cup of plaster powder, then mixed per the package directions. But first, a few notes about plaster of paris in this application:
- The instructions (1/2 cup water) are JUST A GENERAL GUIDE when making these skulls. You want the the mixture to be about the consistancy of Chocolate syrup. The actual amount of water needed depends on humidity, temperature, and the whims of fate. Add either more powder or more water as needed in VERY small amounts.
- Hot water will set up faster than cold water, which means less working time.
- Dry time, like how much water, varies by the whims of nature.
- Best results are had when all 3 layers are done without fully drying in between.
So, with your mold, measure one cup plaster into a
CHEAP DISPOSABLE PLASTIC CUP. I prefer solo brand plastic cups, specifically the non-transparent ones. The transparent ones don't last as long.
Add in the water and mix up with a stir stick of some sort. We like chop sticks. And pour this into your mold, scraping the side to get as much as possible into your mold. Set that cup aside for reuse,
DO NOT rinse.
Now just tip your mold around and swirl that plaster into every area. It will stay there in a thin layer. Once done, set aside to dry. I like to prop mine in a bowl to prevent flat spots.
Now, as dry times are variable, keep that plastic cup handy. About 15 minutes, check the cup by gently squeezing the side where you poured and there's a bit left over. If it cracks but goes back to form, it's not ready. If it cracks and pops off, it's time for layer 2. Simply pop all the plaster out of the cup, and repeat. Again leaving the cup as a guide for when it's time for layer 3.
IF FOR SOME REASON YOU HAVE TO LET A LAYER COMPLETELY DRY. Like, say, overnight, or a few hours. It's important to dampen up the layer in the mold or the new plaster will not cover the entire area.
AFTER layer 3. We'll want to let it dry just a bit longer than the previous layers, and can even allow it to dry completely before removing the mold.
Now then. On to coloring.
I use good old Minwaxe oil based stain. Right now, we have "Ebony" and "Red Mahogony" in el cheapo spray bottles (since the sprayer for my maple broke).
Take the neccessary precautions against getting it on you:
(the glasses were overkill, but funny)
Now, first thing is to SOAK our dried out plaster skulls.
Simply grab a skull, choose a color, and spray a bit.
THEN smear it around with your hands.
And...try not to get it all over your face...
All in a day's work...
Now, in the inevitability you DO get it on your hands/face/arms. For some reason Huggies baby wipes are SUPREMELY effective at removal. (with some scrubbing)
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