# Fog Machine Problems



## Landscapeman (Oct 2, 2008)

I am having some problems with my fog machine. It has been putting out subpar smoke. It is a 700w and I am used to it putting out quite a bit. It just putters a little. I have cleaned before storage with vinegar and water . Then ran it with juice before final storage. I have cleaned the tip and about to tare it apart. Any ideas before I break it? Thanks


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## Terra (Sep 23, 2007)

Same thing happened to me. I took it apart and didn't see anything odd. So, taking it apart didn't help me.


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## meltdown211 (Sep 27, 2006)

Well, more than likely...the pump is shot. It seems to happen SOOOOO often with these fog machings across all brands. My only suggestion is to remove the cover and "tap" the pump while plugged in to see if you can free it up. These are electromagnet pumps and there really is no impeller to lock up but I have saved a few in the past with a gentle tap and brought them back to life.


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## Landscapeman (Oct 2, 2008)

Thanks for the replys, I will give it a tap


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## Ugly Joe (Jan 13, 2004)

I have two of the LiteFX 400 watt foggers, pulled them out of storage last week, and one of them was having similar issues...lots of noise, but just a little smoke being generated.

...I've had this happen before...with this exact machine.

The problem is in the fitting on the output from the pump. This piece is not hard to remove (on the 400w machines), when you do, just run a thin piece of wire [highlight]VERY GENTLY[/highlight] into both ends, to clear out any build up.

This is the second time I've done this with this fogger, and now it's running like a champ...again...

...until next time...

(and I won't complain, as this fogger cost all of $10 dollars (with a timer!) after Halloween 4 years ago)


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## Landscapeman (Oct 2, 2008)

This is a liteFX. I will give that a shot tomorrow. Thanks


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## Landscapeman (Oct 2, 2008)

Correction it is a 400 watt


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## Ugly Joe (Jan 13, 2004)

When you take the chassis apart, you'll have full access to the inner workings.

The fitting I'm speaking of on the side of the pump leading to the heater.
You'll find a length of copper tubing running from the pump to the heater, and it has two threaded pressure fittings on it. You'll need to remove that copper tubing to be able to unscrew the fitting off the pump (well...it's easiest to do it that way).

I recommend unbolting the small steel plate on top of the heater (has 2 wires connected to it), as it covers up the pressure fitting that connects the copper tubing to the heater.
Then, unthread the other end of the tubing, and you'll be able to pull the tubing loose from the fitting on the pump (takes a little wiggling).
Then, just unscrew the fitting from the pump, and clean it out.

Do all of this slowly, as there is a component in the pump on a spring - it shouldn't jump out when you take the fitting off (it never has on mine), but perhaps yours is put together a little differently.

Just put everything back together as you took apart, and give it a shot.

At least, that's worked for me twice now.


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## texmaster (Aug 25, 2008)

you guys are scaring me. How often does this happen and after how much use?


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## Ugly Joe (Jan 13, 2004)

texmaster said:


> you guys are scaring me. How often does this happen and after how much use?


Actually, on mine, I think it's from dis-use during the rest of the year.
I've heard both arguments for and against packing them away with fog juice in them.

I've packed mine away both clean, and not, with and without fog juice - the one machine is always okay (last year, I left them with fog juice in the reservoirs), and the other has now clogged up twice...both are the same model.

Wish I had a good answer other than, keep them out, and run them every few weeks during the course of the year...I think I'm going to do that this year, and see if it keeps the machines lubricated, clear, and functioning.
(yeah...like I wouldn't like an excuse to run my fog machines other times during the year)


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## Landscapeman (Oct 2, 2008)

What about using PB Blaster in the pump and lines? I know it would smell like *ss and you wouldn't want to breathe it in. Wonder if it will hurt the machine?


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## Texan78 (Sep 27, 2008)

The problem a lot of people have is with storing them. You are suppose to store them full of juice to keep everything lubricated. The problem is a lot of people store their machines in storage buildings, sheds, attics etc. and extreme hit can cause the fluid to junk up or even evaporate. 

So when you store them, store them in a cool dry place like back in their box then in a closet or someplace where the temp is controlled. The heat is not a fog machines friend.


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## Halloweenfan (Sep 18, 2008)

I maybe got mine 4 or 5 years ago at Michael's, and nothing has happened to it. I store it with the fluid in my basement. So, try that I guess. This is not to fix yours, but for next time when you fix it.


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## Landscapeman (Oct 2, 2008)

I store it in the shed. I will keep it in mind, its hot in Florida. Thanks


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## Ugly Joe (Jan 13, 2004)

Texan78 said:


> The problem a lot of people have is with storing them. You are suppose to store them full of juice to keep everything lubricated. The problem is a lot of people store their machines in storage buildings, sheds, attics etc. and extreme hit can cause the fluid to junk up or even evaporate.
> 
> So when you store them, store them in a cool dry place like back in their box then in a closet or someplace where the temp is controlled. The heat is not a fog machines friend.


Heh, it's funny, as I store both of mine in a cooler (my fog chiller - doubles as fog machine storage when not in use), which I keep in my garage, and I live a half mile from the ocean in Southern California - there may be 5-6 days a year where the temp exceeds 90 degrees or dips below 40 degrees - the rest of the year is between 60-75 degrees, and not a lot of humidity.

...and I still end up with the one machine that clogs, and the other that doesn't.


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## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

I wrote up a Lite F/X pump repair how-to. It may help:

Lite F/X Fogger Pump Repair ? Modd3d


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## Landscapeman (Oct 2, 2008)

Thanks Otaku


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## Figtreejohn (Aug 21, 2008)

*Friggin' Fog Machines!*

Hey everyone, I have 2 Lite F/X 1741 foggers suffering the same problem. The units heat up, the pump sounds (very loud) but no juice is flowing through the tube. I looked at the screens and they both seem clean. What is up? Help!


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## ldogg53 (May 23, 2008)

on the subject of foggers... how long do they normally run on a full tank of juice before needing to be refilled?


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## Landscapeman (Oct 2, 2008)

I went and bought two 700w fog machines and timers. I couldn't get the f/x to work, spent 3 hours f*cking with that b*stard and yet still nothing. Good Luck


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## texmaster (Aug 25, 2008)

ldogg53 said:


> on the subject of foggers... how long do they normally run on a full tank of juice before needing to be refilled?


is a hard question to answer depending on the size of the tank and the size of the heating unit.

I always check on the level every 30-45 minutes to be safe but you should be able to get at least an hour to an hour and a half off one tank..


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## spinman1949 (Oct 20, 2008)

*More on the dreaded fog machine clog.*

Hope this helps everyone.

First I am tenacious when it comes to fixing stuff. I am a tech by trade, and ever since I was a kid, I have been taking apart and putting stuff back together. Needless to say, even with my high level of mechanical skills, these fog machines are a challenge. 

I think the real key here is indeed storage. Mine sets in my garage all year. I live in So Calif, and I am inland, so temps can approach 100 degees in the garage at times. I did run cleaning fluid and water and vinegar before I put it in storage. Still clogged up. And the worst part is it clogged inside the heater unit. The pump was full of this white gunk as well. I am beginning to think that vinegar residue was at fault. So in future the last thing that is going through this unit is DI water, and that is how I will store it. We shall see.

Anyway back to what may help. 

To check the pump.

Disconnect the pipe to the heater and pump. If you can get another pipe and fitting that you can form to attach to just the pump and have the other open end point outside of the unit away from any electronics. These fittings are standard. Just like the ones used to hook up a fridge icemaker. 

So now with your test pipe attached, heat up the unit and when the ready light comes on hit the manual switch. You can use water for this test, no need to use fog fluid. The pump should put out a healthy stream. The output of the pump is somewhat tied to the wattage of the heater. Higher wattage heater, higher flow from punmp, higher volume of fog. On average the stream should shoot out at least 3 or 4 inches before gravity bends it down. Bottom line is if it is dribbling out, you have pump problem. The volume at this point may seem extreme if the pump is working correctly. In fact you can watch the water go down. But there is no back pressure against the pump. The pump in normal operation must not only fight the expanding fog juice in the heater, but also the back pressure caused by the fog trying to escape the small orifice at the exit port. You should not be able to stall the pump by placing your finger over the tube. 

So now if you find that the pump is working, then you likely have a blocked heater. For some this is nothing more than a clogged nozzle. For others like me it is one big nightmare.

If the heater is clogged internally in the screw like looking fog path, then there is no way of getting any kind of wire or utensil in there to clear the jam. You need to eat out the clog. Hopefully someone here knows the secrret formula for that. I took the heater out. Removed both fittings and dropped the whole unit in a pan of boiling vinegar for about an hour. Once in awhile I would take it out to my garage and blow compressed air through the unit. It took awhile, but I finally got it clear. 

The one thing I did not try is to attempt to remove the screw insert. I actually did this on my first fogger that failed, but I had to beat on it severly to get it out and I ended up damaging the aluminum block in the process. I suspect the screw insert in installed with the block heated to a high temperature. If anyone wants to send me a dead heater, so I can experiment further, I might try heating one with my torch to see if the insert will come out easily. Just give me a confirmation here and we can work something out. 

As far as the pump is concened, they are not complicated. Just don't tweak stretch or break anything. The goal is to take it apart. Note where everything goes and clean out any offending matter that is blocking the flow. 

My unit uses the SP-35A pumo. This is the one that has the exit pump fitting on top. The fluid inlet goes to a quick disconnect type fitting. There is a large flat blade metal screw with a big hex nut to lock it. There is a smaller flat blade brass screw which is fluid tight with a number of o-rings. This is the one way valve. It does come apart, but be careful. If you have one of these drop me a message and I can go into more detail. It has tiny springs inside that you do not want to lose. This unit also has a damper of some sort. I think it's purpose is to reduce noise. Not sure. It's just this big round unit that has like hard rubber inside. The actual pump section is in the tower. This particular pump works on the basis that the piston starta at the bottom of it's travel. There are two springs. One is larger in diameter and stronger than the other. Don't mix them up. And don't stretch or tweak them. Trust me on this. I messed with mine so much I fatigued the metal and now my pump is weak. I have another on order. Much of what I went through the last few days was a comedy of errors. The good news is now I know what not to do which may help others.

So the pump piston is forced down to the bottom of its throw by the larger stronger spring as it fights the smaller weaker spring. 

The AC current that goes to the pump is chopped from a full wave 60 cycle flow to a half wave 30 cycle flow by a diode. This is important because I was testing the pump outside of the unit and I was unaware of the diode hidden back in the wiring. Yes this is one of the comedy of errors that led me to mess with the springs. 

So now that the pump receives a pulse of electrical current, instad of a constant + - flow, the pump can actually work. The current causes a magnetic field to build which pulls the piston up to the center of that field. A distance of approx 1/4 inch. Then when the polarity changes, the diode blocks the flow and the field colapses. This allows the strong spring to foirce the piston back to it's home position. The field on phase is the syphon phase, and the field off is the pump phase. And the one way valve is what allows it all to work.

Well this is enough for now.

I am sure many are saying when is this guy gonna shut up. 

That's the good part about forum's. You get to talk. 

Spinman


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