# why does everyone drylock??



## Boone6666 (Aug 22, 2014)

why dose everyone drylock foambaord it seems like it is an unnecessary y and expensive thing to do, as foam board is already rain resistant


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## WitchyKitty (Sep 20, 2012)

I don't know about other people...but I do some sort of base primer coat...whether it be drylok, gray outdoor primer or whatever, so that way I can safely use stone textured spray paint for the next layer. You can't put spray paint straight on to foam, it will eat through it. Primers of some sort also help other paints to stick and also give a good base color to the stone. Layers of paints and colors look more realistic than one, flat color. I use outdoor primer.


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## Madame Leota (Sep 19, 2005)

I've never used Drylock on anything made of foam board. My tombstones are foam board painted with exterior flat latex paint. They've held up for several years and withstood all kinds of weather.


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## Boone6666 (Aug 22, 2014)

I do relies you need a base coat especially if you going to use spay paint , but I use clearance household paint cheap


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## WitchyKitty (Sep 20, 2012)

I worded my post wrong...I didn't mean for it to say I use Drylok...I just meant to say I use something like that...I usually just use a gray outdoor primer as my base. Really, I agree with you, it seems a bit expensive if they are using it as a base.
I think I've read that some use Drylok if they have added elements to their stones that need monster mud and such...but I wouldn't know for sure or why...


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## ryanlamprecht (Oct 8, 2009)

I've always used Dryloc, because, for me, it kills four birds with one stone. First off, I have it tinted grey at the hardware store, so there's my color base. Second, it seals the foam board, so there's my base coat if I want to use spray paint. Third, it seals all the little cracks and crevices that water can seep into and erode the adhesives I use. Fourth, it leaves a nice textured stone finish. Lastly, because years ago Terra told me I should use it, and I just love the results. So, there's my reasons.


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## madmax (Dec 28, 2003)

If you are using it for texture a little sand in paint does the same thing. 

I personally never use drylock because I was a painting contractor for 30 years and I trust primer to seal what I put it on and I always had a few 5 gallon buckets of mixed paint and primer. If it's good enough to seal the wood on our most expensive possessions... our homes.

It should be good enough for our props.


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## Spook Show (Nov 6, 2012)

I don't use it, I just use gray paint as my base. I also use 3" thick foam so I'm not gluing pieces together so I don't have to worry about water getting in.


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## pyrosaxplayer (Sep 12, 2012)

ryanlamprecht said:


> Lastly, because years ago Terra told me I should use it.


STOP RIGHT THERE!

lol 

Thats all you had to say. She is the Tombstone Godess, everything she says to do to a tombstone, I do. Her stuff is perfect.


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## Terra (Sep 23, 2007)

You all are a hoot, lol.

Basically, Ryan nailed it. First heard about Drylok when reading a tutorial about using it instead of Monster Mud. Thought Beloved would look better thickened up more with Monster Mud and _then_ painted with Drylok. The gallon at the store was already tinted gray and was happy to discover that it was the perfect base color for a cemetery stone. Then... I drybrushed it. MAGIC! Instantly, Beloved looked like true stone with the white drybrushing highlighting all the rasied surfaces from the texture that the silica (sand) particles in Drylok left behind. Add to the fact that it waterproofs any Monster Mudded item (which I usually have on my stones) and it's a great 4 in 1 use.

Here's a picture of Beloved before drybrushing and after:


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## Oak Lane Cemetery (Sep 5, 2011)

I'm still learning and experimenting with tombstones, but I've never used it either. I use a heavy coat of black latex as my base coat and a combination of thin monster mud and latex exterior paint for my finishing. Used some sand in the celtic cross I did and went really heavy with about three coats of monster mud before painting to strengthen it some since it is white bead foam and very soft. Stiffened it right up and gave it a nice hard crusty finish.


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## The Undertaker (Jul 10, 2012)

I'm not so much worried about the waterproofing part that Dryloc provides, but I haven't as of yet used any monster mud on my tombstones. For me there are two basic reasons - the second I discovered last year after building my columns. 

First, I like the texture that it leaves. As Tera said, once you dry brush it the "stone" look really comes out. Second, and this is now my #1 reason for using it, the super durable/tough surface it provides. I made two columns last year that were pretty large and I thought, Dryloc is sooooo expensive, I don't want to use that much on just one project. So, I painted them with an exterior latex paint. I immediately noticed there was not that hard "stone" finish that I had previously gotten on my tombstones. Now, I'm not saying that using latex paint is in any way inferior. I specifically used it for a tombstone last year that I was looking for more of a smooth/marble finish and I'm really happy with the results. But, I don't feel it is anywhere near as resistant to bumps/thumps and FIVE YEAR OLDS!!!!! The Dryloc seems to provide a little more protection from incidental damage, of which was provided mostly by my (at the time) FIVE YEAR OLD niece! I have to touch up several areas on one of my columns this year where the pink foam tore/ripped from her "over zealous Halloween excitement!" Who knows, maybe the same would have happened to my dryloc coated stones but I feel they are a little more durable.

Besides, Tera uses it and that's good enough for me!!!!


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## Terra (Sep 23, 2007)

Thanks Undertaker. I agree with you that the strength of Drylok is amazing. In a way it seems to harden the foam almost as if it got a light coat of foam hardener. Been using these Steel Beams for many haunt seasons and because they are 8' long they are constantly being banged into a wall, ceiling, etc. during transport and the damage I get is isn't on the beams but to the to the wall, ceiling etc. it hit... heh.


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## madmax (Dec 28, 2003)

Drylok has Portland cement in it and this gives it the hard coat you are talking about.

If a person had the paint you can get that dryloc feel and hard coat by adding a small amount of Portland cement and texture will a very small amount of sand . If you use a lot of it this would be the cheapest way to go...

getting a gallon of oops paint and a small bag of cement. You would need to play around to find the mixture that works best for you but this way if you need it thick or thin it's up to you.


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## Hilda (Jul 31, 2011)

ryanlamprecht said:


> I've always used Dryloc, because, for me, it kills four birds with one stone. First off, I have it tinted grey at the hardware store, so there's my color base. Second, it seals the foam board, so there's my base coat if I want to use spray paint. Third, it seals all the little cracks and crevices that water can seep into and erode the adhesives I use. Fourth, it leaves a nice textured stone finish. Lastly, because years ago Terra told me I should use it, and I just love the results. So, there's my reasons.


DItto.

I actually took some of my foam stones to our cemetery for a little photo shoot... and I could not believe how close to the old real tombstones from the 1800s the 'texture' or surface was using the Drylok.


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## creeperguardian (Aug 22, 2011)

For me it gives the stone such an amazing texture. just this year i explored more into ageing and i must say it turned one of my stones to look so old that it looks as if it came right from the era of the witch trials which is amazing.


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## Terra (Sep 23, 2007)

Dug through my pictures to hopefully show a close-up of the stone-like effect you get using Drylok. Tea-staining and drybrushing really come alive using it:


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## ryanlamprecht (Oct 8, 2009)

Here's some close-ups of some stones I made. Notice stone-like finish you can get by using Drylok.


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## Neuf350Z (Feb 12, 2006)

I think it all comes down to preference and there is no right or wrong way.  

I've created tombstones using Drylok and not using Drylok but I really prefer the Drylok ones because of the texture and look. I don't mind paying a little more for it to get a better end result, but that's just my opinion.


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## Ghouliet (Nov 5, 2010)

ryanlamprecht said:


> I've always used Dryloc, because, for me, it kills four birds with one stone. First off, I have it tinted grey at the hardware store, so there's my color base. Second, it seals the foam board, so there's my base coat if I want to use spray paint. Third, it seals all the little cracks and crevices that water can seep into and erode the adhesives I use. Fourth, it leaves a nice textured stone finish. Lastly, because years ago Terra told me I should use it, and I just love the results. So, there's my reasons.



Ditto that is exactly why I use it on all my headstones!


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## darthrott (Oct 20, 2010)

I too was sold on the use of drylock after watching The Master (Terra) and all her wonderful videos, but as you can see by my first attempt at a homemade tombstone last year, I was disappointed at the lack if bumps, pimples of supposed concrete. So like the analytical fool that I am I spent a whole afternoon stippling my tombstone with a small artists brush. My question to all the experts on here is
1. Do you thin Drylock down with water
2. Do you use a 3/8'' or 1/2" nap roller, I hate brush marks
3. Is there a way to get better coverage of tombstone with the sand.
Just curious, I am thinking of trying SK Austin's technique of black basecoat, light grey 2nd coat, then some drybrushing with just plain acrylic craft paint.
Any hints, or tips would be appreciated.


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## goneferal (Jul 2, 2010)

I used it with no added water and a foam roller. The roller built up the texture of the sand. I also use beat up pices of foam board and once they are coated with drilok, they look quite a bit like stone.


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## darthrott (Oct 20, 2010)

Maybe I didn't stir the can of paint up enough, I just couldn't seem to get any consistent coverage of sand, I'd roll some on, and no sand, then a line of sand, no sand. I was a lil disappointed. I'll try mixing it up better this year. I'd hate to think I'd have to add more sand, but if one is truly trying to achieve the effect of concrete, you need a lot of little bumps, eh.


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## WitchyKitty (Sep 20, 2012)

Ah, I was not aware the Drylok had texture to it. That explains the reason as to why so many use it. It's basically the same as me using my gray outdoor primer and then stone texture spray paint...but in one step. Good to know.
Mine has held up fine through all my crazy weather, and I like the look, so I'm still fine with my non-drylok method for now. I would think whatever you can afford or get on sale in either method would be fine.


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## Terra (Sep 23, 2007)

darthrott said:


> I too was sold on the use of drylock after watching The Master (Terra) and all her wonderful videos, but as you can see by my first attempt at a homemade tombstone last year, I was disappointed at the lack if bumps, pimples of supposed concrete. So like the analytical fool that I am I spent a whole afternoon stippling my tombstone with a small artists brush. My question to all the experts on here is
> 1. Do you thin Drylock down with water
> 2. Do you use a 3/8'' or 1/2" nap roller, I hate brush marks
> 3. Is there a way to get better coverage of tombstone with the sand.
> ...


Hopefully we can find why you aren't getting a lot of sand residue using Drylok. Before use it's thoroughly stirred to get the silica distributed top to bottom in the can. I do not thin it all. It is applied with a 1 1/2 angled brush and I make sure that the final brush strokes are always downward so you start to see the grain of the sand start to develop. The first coat will give you an essence of the stone-look but it's imperative that two coats are applied. The second coat's silica starts getting caught on the first coat's silica and starts building up nicely. After all that is dried and tea-stained - it is critical to drybrush with a much lighter color than the gray base coat. Either very light gray or straight white. 

You will see less concrete effect on smooth sections of the foam but it very much shines where the foam was carved up to show wear or crumbling. Here's an example of what I'm talking about:










See the relative smoothness on the face of the stone but where it was damaged it looks more stone-like? Also this shows the downward strokes that is left behind when painting. The photo also shows the impact of tea-staining and drybrushing does to the silica in the paint to make them pop. 

Hope that clarifies and helps trouble-shoot.


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## Hilda (Jul 31, 2011)

Here are some photos I took of real tombstones (for research)... you can see that gritty worn texture that people are talking about above, that the Drylok is imitating. 
(I am referring to the texture of the surface. It will take me years of practice to be able to simulate that cool lichen/moss effect like Terra can.) 















Here is a closeup of one of my first foam tombstones. Cool similar texture using the Drylok.


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## screamqueen2012 (Aug 2, 2012)

thats what i was thinking get the opps can paint, tint it if you need to, you can buy tint in ozs at some paint stores, and add your additives to it for the texture, very cheap...id prob use a flat exterior paint though..............i get the opps paint to make my monster mud for texture projects all the time



madmax said:


> Drylok has Portland cement in it and this gives it the hard coat you are talking about.
> 
> If a person had the paint you can get that dryloc feel and hard coat by adding a small amount of Portland cement and texture will a very small amount of sand . If you use a lot of it this would be the cheapest way to go...
> 
> getting a gallon of oops paint and a small bag of cement. You would need to play around to find the mixture that works best for you but this way if you need it thick or thin it's up to you.


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## ryanlamprecht (Oct 8, 2009)

One of my favorite hobbies, at least when I lived in the Midwest, was wandering through cemeteries taking pictures of the old and interesting stones. I especially love the weathered and badly discolored ones. There's something very beautiful about the natural decomposition of the monuments. The colors and textures are amazing. I literally have hundreds of photographs I've taken of different stones. I really miss the cemeteries. Here in Arizona, they must tie balloons to the dearly departed, and float the out of state, because I've only found one cemetery, and I think it might have a total of ten very boring graves in it. In fact, if it weren't for the sign by the road, you'd drive by just thinking it was a barren empty field. There's not even a single tree or hedge. In the Midwest, we had such beautiful sprawling cemeteries. Here, they don't seem to appreciate the beauty in it.


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## oaklawn Crematory (Jun 25, 2010)

They Eat The Bodies In Arizona...No Need For Internment.


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## ryanlamprecht (Oct 8, 2009)

Then, do you know of any good buffets in the area?


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## ryanlamprecht (Oct 8, 2009)

One of my favorite steps in making stones is after I've constructed a nice pristine looking stone, is then ripping it apart. I go around the stone literally tearing chunks out of it with my finger, and making gouges with a knife or screwdriver. Only after I've torn the heck out of it, and made it look like it's rolled down a mountain tied in a bag of cats, do I do my first coat of Drylok. In my opinion, it's the torn up edges, missing chunks, and gouges that makes for a beautifully aged looking stone. All this destruction really comes to life when I walk around doing the dry-brush coats. With every stroke of the dry-brush, all the hours of hard work become apparent, and I feel my excitement growing, as I repeat over and over in my mind, Oh that looks badass!'


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## The Halloween Lady (Jul 17, 2010)

ryanlamprecht said:


> I've always used Dryloc, because, for me, it kills four birds with one stone. First off, I have it tinted grey at the hardware store, so there's my color base. Second, it seals the foam board, so there's my base coat if I want to use spray paint. Third, it seals all the little cracks and crevices that water can seep into and erode the adhesives I use. Fourth, it leaves a nice textured stone finish. Lastly, because years ago Terra told me I should use it, and I just love the results. So, there's my reasons.



Yep.... Gotta quote this again. It sums it up perfectly!!!


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## oaklawn Crematory (Jun 25, 2010)

I Use It Cuz It Repairs My Split ends.....


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## darthrott (Oct 20, 2010)

Terra said:


> Hopefully we can find why you aren't getting a lot of sand residue using Drylok. Before use it's thoroughly stirred to get the silica distributed top to bottom in the can. I do not thin it all. It is applied with a 1 1/2 angled brush and I make sure that the final brush strokes are always downward so you start to see the grain of the sand start to develop. The first coat will give you an essence of the stone-look but it's imperative that two coats are applied. The second coat's silica starts getting caught on the first coat's silica and starts building up nicely. After all that is dried and tea-stained - it is critical to drybrush with a much lighter color than the gray base coat. Either very light gray or straight white.
> 
> You will see less concrete effect on smooth sections of the foam but it very much shines where the foam was carved up to show wear or crumbling. Here's an example of what I'm talking about:
> 
> ...


Always appreciate the input and tips Terra, your tutorials on here inspired me to create my own, thanks for taking the time to reply to my comment. I may just be to anal. I am trying to get bumps and humps of faux concrete on every square inch of my tombstones. The curse of a former graphic artist, nothing is ever perfect in my eyes. I'll practice your techniques on some scrap pieces of foam I have lying around.


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## oaklawn Crematory (Jun 25, 2010)

ryanlamprecht said:


> Then, do you know of any good buffets in the area?


Try some of the roadside stands near Mesa....The meat is seasoned well.


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## oaklawn Crematory (Jun 25, 2010)

I'm prolly the only haunter on the forum who has never used foam board. I got a couple of sheets but haven't used them yet. Maybe next year. ....Definitely will try the drylock.


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## darthrott (Oct 20, 2010)

Terra said:


> Hopefully we can find why you aren't getting a lot of sand residue using Drylok. Before use it's thoroughly stirred to get the silica distributed top to bottom in the can. I do not thin it all. It is applied with a 1 1/2 angled brush and I make sure that the final brush strokes are always downward so you start to see the grain of the sand start to develop. The first coat will give you an essence of the stone-look but it's imperative that two coats are applied. The second coat's silica starts getting caught on the first coat's silica and starts building up nicely. After all that is dried and tea-stained - it is critical to drybrush with a much lighter color than the gray base coat. Either very light gray or straight white.
> 
> You will see less concrete effect on smooth sections of the foam but it very much shines where the foam was carved up to show wear or crumbling. Here's an example of what I'm talking about:
> 
> ...


Here is updated pictures of my recent tombstone, with my own recipe of sand/paint, backside came out super, not so lucky on the frontside. I have found the technique to give me the consistent results I was looking for. Just simply basecoat tombstone with paint, sprau adhesive over the stone, sprinkle sand over stone. It is an extra step, but I am tickled to death, LOL, with the results. Thanks again for all your advice. Happy Haunting.













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Ooops, somehow the pictures didn't load in correct sequence, Sorry


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## Terra (Sep 23, 2007)

That looks very cool and the idea of using spray adhesive is brilliant.


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## darthrott (Oct 20, 2010)

Yes it is, I wish I woulda went that way, maybe on my next tombstone,  
I got the idea watching my daughter making a gift for her friend who was turning 21 this week. She took a bottle of wine , sprayed it down with 3M spray adhesive and sprinkled glitter all over the bottle. Then I figured I could do the same with my tombstone and sand, it really works, I did 2 coats of sand, then let it dry and painted right over it. Who'd a thought.


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## goneferal (Jul 2, 2010)

I just don't get the point of painting, then spraying, then sprinkling sand. There is no way you can buy a gallon of paint, the sand, and adhesive that costs less than a gallon of drilok- at least where I live anyway. The result looks exactly the same as when I use the drilok. Also, this is the first year I've used it and it seems to work so much better than plain latex paint.


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## darthrott (Oct 20, 2010)

To each his/her own, you can not get the consistent effect/texture I am trying to achieve by using drylock, there just isn't enough sand in it.
For the cost, I am using left over latex paint I had retinted by myself, I have 2 bags of play sand laying around, more than enough cans of spray adhesive from past holidays and projects, so my cost was nothing. Every square millimeter of my test piece was covered with sand, you can not get that effect with Drylock,
If you could I wouldn't have gone through the trouble. As far as waterproofing the foam is already waterproof, I use exterior grade latex paint. There are many ways to skin a cat, why you gotta dump on mine?


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## goneferal (Jul 2, 2010)

I'm not dumping in any way. I just thought that the cost and labor of all those steps seemed like a lot more work than necessary. You do whatever you want to do.


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## Britneybear (Aug 31, 2013)

WitchyKitty said:


> Ah, I was not aware the Drylok had texture to it. That explains the reason as to why so many use it. It's basically the same as me using my gray outdoor primer and then stone texture spray paint...but in one step. Good to know.
> Mine has held up fine through all my crazy weather, and I like the look, so I'm still fine with my non-drylok method for now. I would think whatever you can afford or get on sale in either method would be fine.


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## Britneybear (Aug 31, 2013)

There are different kinds of drylok out there, at least one has texture some do not.


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## kuroneko (Mar 31, 2011)

There's Original, Extreme, Pro, and Clear. The differences between them are the cost, the texture/colors, amount of water they hold back, and the warranty. The least expensive version of Drylok (original) has the most texture. I've gotten a few gallons off the oops rack as it's the only way I buy any paint. If you get someone paint desk that is actually knows how to tint paint by hand (and is super cool) they can usually remix any color within reason.
Drylok does give a lovely stone look to all of my stones, but right now everything I have is the same shade of gray. The whole yard is looking a little monochromatic. I might re-tint a few gallons myself while I'm still working in Lowe's., otherwise I'll probably just mix some of my other paints in to change it up. I do have to go back and repaint most of my original tombstones anyway since I've improved my technique.
I've considered just buying exterior grade paint to give recreate some of the different types of actual stone you find in most cemeteries. I haven't found the right shade of red-ish brown yet to recreate the stones found in my area. But also, I was told I can't buy any more paint until I use up most of what I have... Which is a lot. I have at least six gallons of Drylok plus a bunch of other gallons of just assorted (mostly exterior) colors. That's what happens when you work in the paint department for a few years.


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## ryanlamprecht (Oct 8, 2009)

Boone6666 said:


> why dose everyone drylock foambaord it seems like it is an unnecessary y and expensive thing to do, as foam board is already rain resistant


Because not only does it make your project pretty much water proof, (because foam will absorb moisture, and if you've glued layers of board together, that's a very bad thing), drylock also gives you a stone-like texture.


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## stuffyteddybare (Sep 20, 2013)

Boone6666 said:


> why dose everyone drylock foambaord it seems like it is an unnecessary y and expensive thing to do, as foam board is already rain resistant


1 quart is $15..wow


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## ryanlamprecht (Oct 8, 2009)

stuffyteddybare said:


> 1 quart is $15..wow


I don't believe I've ever paid more than $25 for a gallon of Drylock. At least that's how much Home Depot sells it for. They'll even tint it for you whatever color you like. I always have them tint it a stone gray or tan.








DRYLOK Original 1 gal. White Flat Latex Interior/Exterior Basement and Masonry Waterproofer 27513 - The Home Depot


DRYLOK Original Masonry Waterproofer is ideal when water is leaking through existing masonry or you need to protect new construction, this proprietary formula is guaranteed to stop water. Unlike ordinary



www.homedepot.com


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## Terra (Sep 23, 2007)

Coming late to the party here but I started using Drylok for other reasons. The main one is the grit that it leaves behind. It gives it a perfect stone texture that then shows up terrifically after dry-brushing.

Then I discovered other helpful things about Drylok: my store carried it in gray so it's already the correct color, it hardens up the surface so it makes it a bit more damage resistant and finally, it weatherproofs any decorations that were placed on the stone via monster mud. Oh, and if you have joints and/or seams - it seals those up.


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## zooter (Apr 15, 2017)

I use flex seal on my outdoor props, pumpkins, figures, things like that


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