# Fogger Timer/Prop Timer Hack



## Terra (Sep 23, 2007)

So I spice the black wire from the plug on the wall to the receptacle and the fog timer?


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## Diabolik (Apr 10, 2006)

Terra said:


> So I spice the black wire from the plug on the wall to the receptacle and the fog timer?


yep. in fact, you can attach one wire to each screw on that side of the receptacle since the 2 screws are common. Then you just put the green wire on the other side of the outlet. 

Then just splice the white wire from your power source to the white wire from the timer.


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## Terra (Sep 23, 2007)

Well cool beans then. I think I've got this. Thanks so much


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## Diabolik (Apr 10, 2006)

Terra said:


> Well cool beans then. I think I've got this. Thanks for this so much [/QUOTE
> 
> You are welcome.  let me know if you get a chance to try it out. I would suggest you use a 3 prong cord for your power source so you can properly ground your outlet.


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

Time to find some cheap timers, I think.


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## Dark lord (Jan 8, 2007)

Thanx for the drawing, easy to figure with my Fitco timers. Bought a few of them extra after halloween at Orchard supply for $10 ea.


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## MildAvaholic (Oct 10, 2008)

Can you set both the interval and duration with this set-up?


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## Diabolik (Apr 10, 2006)

MildAvaholic said:


> Can you set both the interval and duration with this set-up?



Yes. It really does work well. The shortest interval/duration is probably < 5 seconds. I have not tested them turned all the way up to see how long in between or how long it will run. If I have time, I'll test it this week while I am in there working.


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## Diabolik (Apr 10, 2006)

Dark lord said:


> Thanx for the drawing, easy to figure with my Fitco timers. Bought a few of them extra after halloween at Orchard supply for $10 ea.


I have some other timers (the wal mart ones) that do work on all of my foggers. If I am in the attic, maybe I'll dig one out to compare it to see if they are basically the same and if they are also switching the neutral with the relay.

I am guessing that they are going to be made VERY similar internally.


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## MildAvaholic (Oct 10, 2008)

Diabolik said:


> Yes. It really does work well. The shortest interval/duration is probably < 5 seconds. I have not tested them turned all the way up to see how long in between or how long it will run. If I have time, I'll test it this week while I am in there working.


Thanks. That makes it even better!!


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## Diabolik (Apr 10, 2006)

EDIT: I updated the schematic of the timer wiring to show the addition of a ground wire on the receptacle. This is pretty important (for safety) and I wanted to make sure it was there.


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## TNBrad (Sep 12, 2007)

WOW this is great thank you so much. Now where to get them?


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## Diabolik (Apr 10, 2006)

top19site said:


> So I spice the black wire from the plug on the wall to the receptacle and the fog timer?


yep, exactly. There are 2 screws on each side of the receptacle, so you can just place one wire under each if you'd like since they are common to each other.


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## Uruk-Hai (Aug 31, 2008)

This is so great! Thanks for the how-to.


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## JoeyOSoGood (Aug 22, 2009)

Ok this is my first post, anyway so I did what you said Diabolik, which by the way I really want to thank you for! So I wired it up to one of the cheap timers from Walmart and at least for me it gave me problems. For some reason it only wanted to work with this one light I had and if anything else was plugged in, the timer would not work at all. 
The push button on it worked though. I tried tweaking it but nothing wanted to work, so next I took and spliced one of my better fog timers to the plug and boom worked like a beauty. So if you or anyone else has gotten the cheaper fogger from say walmart and gets it to work please let me know. Thanks again.


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## Diabolik (Apr 10, 2006)

JoeyOSoGood said:


> Ok this is my first post, anyway so I did what you said Diabolik, which by the way I really want to thank you for! So I wired it up to one of the cheap timers from Walmart and at least for me it gave me problems. For some reason it only wanted to work with this one light I had and if anything else was plugged in, the timer would not work at all.
> The push button on it worked though. I tried tweaking it but nothing wanted to work, so next I took and spliced one of my better fog timers to the plug and boom worked like a beauty. So if you or anyone else has gotten the cheaper fogger from say walmart and gets it to work please let me know. Thanks again.


Joey, These timers were made by Forum and did NOT work with any of my foggers. I have some of the Wal-Mart fogg timers here. I have not had a chance to take a look a one yet to compare it. If I get up in the attic this weekend I'll bring one down and take a look at it. I am suspect the wiring is just slightly different. I am pretty certain it will work.  I'll update this thread with my findings.


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## Diabolik (Apr 10, 2006)

I tested this one one of the Walmart timers and it is NOT THE SAME !!! Hang tight. I am working out a solution to use these with the Wal Mart/ Target style timers. The wiring is definitely different in those timers and they are solid state as well, there are no relays in them as there is with the Forum timers I used for this hack. Hopefully I'll have an updated drawing for those timers here shortly.


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## Dark lord (Jan 8, 2007)

Are the target/walmart ones the Fitco timers ? I have several of the fitco & the circuit board is completely dif from your diagram. 
Looks like you just opened the door to extended R & D........ LOL But at least you gave us a possible solution that just requires a little more testing for each maker of dif timers.


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## Diabolik (Apr 10, 2006)

Dark lord said:


> Are the target/walmart ones the Fitco timers ? I have several of the fitco & the circuit board is completely dif from your diagram.
> Looks like you just opened the door to extended R & D........ LOL But at least you gave us a possible solution that just requires a little more testing for each maker of dif timers.



I am not sure if it is the Fitco timer for sure, I'll have to look. The one I was playing with was from Wal-Mart and I know Target sold the same ones. Both of those worked on all of my foggers. The one I used for this hack, definitely did not. I just need to figure it out for sure. Don't want to see anyone blowing stuff up. 

I'm also going to include connections for adding a relay. I am not so sure of the current capabilities of these boards since they are only controlling the fog machine's pump. I think adding a relay will make it a little more bullet proof.


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## Dark lord (Jan 8, 2007)

The fitcos have black adjustment knobs, & the pic of the one you used the timer button is yellow & fog (manual) is green, 
Fitcos is green timer button & manual (does not say fog) & is yellow , fitcos also has an oval circle around each of the button names.......
i see them on EBay & stores for $10-$15 regularly - ie ;looks like this one.....
FOG SMOKE MACHINE REMOTE TIMER CONTROL DJ PARTY SUPPLY - eBay (item 140333416125 end time Sep-13-09 06:25:25 PDT)

NOT blow stuff up....??!!?!! ah, now ya taking the fun stuff out.....LOL


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## Diabolik (Apr 10, 2006)

Ok, I had some time to work on this tonight and I have got it pretty much figured out now for both timers only after making a mistake and blowing one up in my face.  Oh well, you've got to take one for the team now and then. 

Here is the type 1 (Forum) brand fog timer. I've added a 110 volt 10 amp relay to the schematic since I am unsure of the rating of this timers internal relay. I figure 10 amps is more than enough for just about any prop. 

























Here is the type 2 timer. I got this one from Wal Mart, have seen them at Target, and I think even Michaels. Notice the wiring colors are slightly different on these ones. a couple of notes about these timers...
1) they are solid state (no onboard relays) 
2) they are only rated at 25 watts (so a relay is a must) 
3) they are designed to control a resistance load. I could not get the timer to work with a C7 bulb. Only a small motor or a 25 watt bulb made it work. I did not have an extra relay handy to see if that alone would suffice. I am sure a small bulb could be added if more load is required. 


















Hopefully this will help with some of the other timers out there.


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## robzilla69 (Sep 8, 2009)

*thanks but not sure*

Hi this is my first post and let me start by saying thanks for doing the R&D. The wiring is not a problem for me but my question is that of application. Im making a pneumatic spider triggered by motion sensor that outputs 110v. if I slit the output through 2 of these timers i could effectively control 2 separately timed events from the one trigger. Is this right? Example: Trigger from motion sensor turns on light effect for 20 seconds through one timer and activates pneumatic prop for 10 seconds on the other? Thanks again!


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## Terra (Sep 23, 2007)

Bummer about blowing one up, hope you weren't injured. 

I think you lost me on the relay though. Did you wire something into that board you pictured or do you have a separate relay that isn't pictured? *Note:* I've never messed with wiring in a relay. One of the main reasons I went the DMX route. Looked like too much brainwork. I am a blonde at times


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## Diabolik (Apr 10, 2006)

robzilla69 said:


> Hi this is my first post and let me start by saying thanks for doing the R&D. The wiring is not a problem for me but my question is that of application. Im making a pneumatic spider triggered by motion sensor that outputs 110v. if I slit the output through 2 of these timers i could effectively control 2 separately timed events from the one trigger. Is this right? Example: Trigger from motion sensor turns on light effect for 20 seconds through one timer and activates pneumatic prop for 10 seconds on the other? Thanks again!


Robzilla, I understand exactly what you are saying. the answer is no. A fog timer will not activate when first powered up. It will count off whatever time interval (between cycles) that you have it set at before it fires the first time. They are better for running a prop to turn on and off by itself at set intervals (like my grave grabber) which it is perfect for. I hope this helps you ? 



Terra said:


> Bummer about blowing one up, hope you weren't injured.
> 
> I think you lost me on the relay though. Did you wire something into that board you pictured or do you have a separate relay that isn't pictured? *Note:* I've never messed with wiring in a relay. One of the main reasons I went the DMX route. Looked like too much brainwork. I am a blonde at times


Terra, I used this relay...125VAC/10A DPDT Plug-In Relay - RadioShack.com nothing fancy. If you are interested in doing this setup, I can add the relay terminal numbers to the drawing if that will help. Which timer are you planning on using ? Oh, and no, I did not add the realy to the board. Just wired it in to the circuit using wire. You actually do not have to do anything inside the timer outside of verifying that your timer matches one of these examples.


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## Terra (Sep 23, 2007)

Oh, excellent. Sounds easy enough then. 

I'm not sure which timer I have but I've bookmarked this thread for if/when I can get around to doing this before Halloween. I was going to use it to run my peeper tombstone.


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## Diabolik (Apr 10, 2006)

Terra said:


> Oh, excellent. Sounds easy enough then.
> 
> I'm not sure which timer I have but I've bookmarked this thread for if/when I can get around to doing this before Halloween. I was going to use it to run my peeper tombstone.


Sweet ! just look me up when you get to it and I'll gladly help you out.


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## robzilla69 (Sep 8, 2009)

Diabolik said:


> Robzilla, I understand exactly what you are saying. the answer is no. A fog timer will not activate when first powered up. It will count off whatever time interval (between cycles) that you have it set at before it fires the first time. They are better for running a prop to turn on and off by itself at set intervals (like my grave grabber) which it is perfect for. I hope this helps you ?
> 
> 
> 
> Bummer well guess im still looking for a cheep 110v variable timer. Thanks


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## Halloween 2012 (Sep 3, 2009)

what about adding a motion sensor to it for only 1 prop like a pneumatic pop up so it goes on for a set time but cannot be retriggered until it resets? How would this get tied in with the diagrams you have supplied. thanks in advance


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## Hellspawn (Jul 2, 2007)

So, is this timer hack designed to just run a prop continuously? or can it be triggered and then ran?

if its the latter, 

Anyone thought about wiring two timers in series? (or is it parralel?)

it would be great if you wanted a delay before the prop goes off...

ex: trigger prop > wait 15 seconds > prop activates > runs for 6 seconds > prop resets and cannot be triggered again for 50 seconds.

you couldnt have the delay before the prop activates with just a single timer, but if you added a second timer, you could.

any reason why that couldnt be done?

hell, walmart, target, kmart all have good timers that are left over after halloween, I found several last year at walmart for 2.50 each.. now I wish I would have bought more than 2 *doh /facepalm


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## rick12667 (Jul 17, 2009)

Hello,

I was able to hack a walmart timer using a motion sensor and relay. I have two fog machines that are set up in my yard and I didn't want them to go off all night if no one was around to see them. It would just be a waste of money for the fog juice. I took a standard motion sensor light and gutted it out so all I had left is the sensor. Power is supplied by a plug in cord and the output of the sensor is connected to another cord with female end on it. I took a standard walmart timer and hacked the Auto Control. This way the fog machine will run based on what the timer is set for. I use the motion sensor to trigger a 9 volt power supply that is connected to the relay and timmer Auto Control. When someone walks by the motion sensor it trigers the fog machine to go off and will only run at what the timmer is set for.

Rick


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## rick12667 (Jul 17, 2009)

Here are a few pics of what I did

Halloween Forum - rick12667's Album: Halloween - Picture

Halloween Forum - rick12667's Album: Halloween - Picture

Halloween Forum - rick12667's Album: Halloween - Picture

Halloween Forum - rick12667's Album: Halloween - Picture


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## CPLAYER5 (Oct 23, 2008)

Got a schematic for that?


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## rick12667 (Jul 17, 2009)

I will have to see if I still have it. A guy at my work drew it up for me and not sure if I still have it.


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## CPLAYER5 (Oct 23, 2008)

Thanks for your help.


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## CPLAYER5 (Oct 23, 2008)

Thanks for your help.


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## Diabolik (Apr 10, 2006)

Hellspawn said:


> So, is this timer hack designed to just run a prop continuously? or can it be triggered and then ran?
> 
> if its the latter,
> 
> ...


Yes, I did this hack with the intention of having various animations in the graveyard operate randomly (or continuous) if you will. For my grave grabber in particular. I wanted something simple to just plug in and turn on. This is great for that situation. 

Keep in mind that these are not timers in the normal sense. They must be powered up in order to work. when you first power them up, they do not trigger right away and I am not so sure that it is going to wait exactly the amount of time you have it set for before triggering the first time. 

Using these with a motion to only allow the prop to trigger in the windows where the timer is "on" would be a good application, but trying to trigger a prop and have it stay oin a certain amount of time with this as a timer is not going to work. as soon as you power these timers up, they start counting. They cannot be triggered like a regular timer board.


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## Halloween 2012 (Sep 3, 2009)

Here is my target fog timer taken apart and the wires desoldered.

N = Black wire

OUT = White wire

L = Green Wire

How would I wire this into motion sensors to control a MIB and a grave popper (I have 2 timers) that are wired to washing machine solenoids to release air to activate?


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## rick12667 (Jul 17, 2009)

Here is what I did. First I wanted to be able to use the timmer function of the controler for my fog machines. I have a motion sensor hooked up to activate my fog machines. I understand that yes once the motion sensor it activated it will take a few minutes before the fog machine will kick on due to being in the timmer mode but I am OK with this. What I did was to purchase a cheap motion sensor from Fleet Farm and took the unit apart. This is what I ended up with.

Halloween Forum - rick12667's Album: Halloween - Picture

Next I purchased a mini relay from fleet farm. Here is the relay

7-9VDC/12A SPDT Relay, Mini - RadioShack.com

As you can see it is rated at 125 volts and uses 7-9 volt trimmer. As you can see from this pic I am using a basic 9 volt power source that I purchased from my local Good Will for $1.50. I have it hot glued to the back of the timmer as seen here

Halloween Forum - rick12667's Album: Halloween - Picture

Next I wired the relay as shown on the directions that came with it. If you look at your controller you will see that the center button is for the timmer function. This is what I used so I could control how long and and how often the fog would go off. Turn over your controller and on the back you will see two large soder points that the button is soder onto the board. This is were you will soder on your wires from the relay to the control as seen in this pic.

Halloween Forum - rick12667's Album: Halloween - Picture

Once done connect your 9 volt power supply to the cord coming from your motion sensor. When the motion sensor is activated it will supply power to the 9 volt power supply which will trigger your controler. Hope this helps, any questions let me know.


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## Halloween 2012 (Sep 3, 2009)

My timer is solid state, no relays.


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## rick12667 (Jul 17, 2009)

The relay is what you need to purchase. This basically takes place of the button. Right now when you pushs down the timmer button it completes the circuit and allows the fog machine to run only during the time you have it set for. You will remove the spring and small round bar inside the button when you take it apart. The relay will be wired in to do what the button use to do. Basically when the motion sensor is tripped it will send power to the 9volt plug that you purchased which will then send power to the relay which will now close and complete the circuit which will allow your timmer to start working.


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## giberific (Oct 11, 2009)

If the relay supplies 9v and the 9v power supply down converts from 110 to 9v, why do you need the relay from the sensor to power supply. I mean, if all the relay does is close the circuit, wouldn't the sudden supply of 9v from the transformer do the same job in creating a complete circuit as the relay or am I missing something ?


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## rick12667 (Jul 17, 2009)

I am not real good with electrical but I will try to explain it. Basically a relay is a switch like a light switch. When the relay is activated or switched it completes the circuit which allows the power to flow through. OK with this, you need a relay that has a 110 volt cability which is what you are buying. In regards to how you make the switch (relay) open and close you need to send it a signal. This is done buy the use of the 9 volt power supply. When the motion sensor goes off it sends the power to the 9 volt power supply. In return being that is is connected to the relay it then makes the relay close and now we have power to the fogger control. You can buy a relay that instead of using 9 volts to open and close you can tet them that uses 110v but they cost more. Does this help out at all?


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## giberific (Oct 11, 2009)

Yes it does. I am doing something similar only using a wireless sensor that activates a standard 110 non grounded outlet.

Heath Zenith 240 Degree Wireless Motion Sensor - SL-6032-WH at The Home Depot


The 110v outlet that receives the wireless signal powers a 6 outlet power strip to activate my prop when the sensor is tripped. My only problem was the fog machine. I appreciate your posting this. Now I can finish up


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## rick12667 (Jul 17, 2009)

Just remember the fog machine must be on for a period of time to warm up before it can fire the fog. Hooking up the power cord of the fog machine to your power strip will not work as it needs to to heat up. All three of my machines stayed powered up and ready to fire.


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## terror31 (Aug 27, 2008)

I was about try and hack my Target fog timer (looks like the ebay pic) but am a little confused.

First let me give you a bit of info on what I am wanting. I have a security light motion sensor (120v) and a beam motion sensor (from a security alarm, 12v). The beam sensor only comes on while the beam is not seeing the other side which means it can stay on if someone stands there if it is simply tripped it stays on for 1.5 - 2 seconds. I thought about using that for my air cannon which uses a 12v sprinkler valve. When it is tripped it closes the 12v circuit. I wanted to limit it from being tripped and thought this timer may be useful. The problem is that I don't know how much output this is so I thought I would simply plug the 12v supply from the beam sensor into a cord hacked like Rick states above. I also had another idea for it. I have a wireless door chime that I can record a voice and is also motion activated. I wanted to limit how many times it goes off since there is no delay. You can see my post about the frog chime here. It has 3 AAA batteries that run it. If I could figure out how many amps it required I could probably hack the battery pack to use a wallwart instead. Any ideas on limiting how these go off?

Thanks for the schematic Diabolic!


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## rick12667 (Jul 17, 2009)

Terror31,

I have hacked many of my props that use batteries to run them. With three AAA batteries I belive this comes out to 4.5 volts. all I did was go to my local Good Will store and found a power supply, like for a phone or some type of toy, that had an output of 4.5 volts. I have seen them from as low as 3 volts all the way up to 12 volts so you need to look at them and see what they are. I found them for about $1.50 each so pretty cheap. These have worked out great. You can them hook these power supplies up to a motion sensor and when your motion sensor goes off it will not activate your prop. Works out very good.

Rick


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## terror31 (Aug 27, 2008)

I went to the Goodwill for that awhile back but I was only finding 5v-9v when I needed less than 5v and some 12v supplies. I was afraid the 5v would fry my stuff. What about amps? I know a rechargeable AA is 1.2v and depending on which one you buy might be 2650 mAh. I am not sure how that maps to mA which on the battery says "standard charge is 270mA for 16h". My assumption then would be that I need 3.6v-4.5v +-270mA adapter.


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## rick12667 (Jul 17, 2009)

I am not sure about the amps as I guess I really never looked at that part. Not sure what to tell you on this?


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## mdawson8931 (Sep 20, 2005)

The device will draw only the amps that it requires. So say the device is 4.5v and .5 amps, the power supply needs to have 4.5v output but can be rated at say, 2 amps.


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## terror31 (Aug 27, 2008)

mdawson8931 said:


> The device will draw only the amps that it requires. So say the device is 4.5v and .5 amps, the power supply needs to have 4.5v output but can be rated at say, 2 amps.


Very nice to know, thanks!


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## confucius101 (Aug 12, 2009)

I just got one of the cheep $20 400 foggers from party city 
It comes with a basic lit on / off switch 

after the unit warms up the light come on and you can hit the button for fog or just leave the button on and get fog every few min's 

I want to hook this up to my electric chair so that when i hit the button to power the sander the unit will automatically send a burst of fog 

do you think the above setup might get me the effect i'm looking for????


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## Hellspawn (Jul 2, 2007)

what are you using to control the orbital sander?

all you probably need is a 8.00 relay from radio shack
12VDC/10A DPDT Plug-in Relay - RadioShack.com

open up the switch that came with your fogger (remove screws/cover) there "should" be 3 wires going to the switch, one of the wires is a ground, one is "hot" and the other is the common wire.

find out which wire is ground and just cut it off, you dont need it.

take the other two wires and wire them to the relay in the Normally Open positions (the first two pins on either side, they sit horizontal over the bottom (vertical) pins) now, take a cheap extension cord (I use a 3-6' interior cord), cut off the female end and solder it to the two pins on the very bottom of the relay (you can see in the picture, the bottom pins sit vertical where the other sets of pins sit horizontal)

now, when power is applied to the bottom (vertical) pins, the connection will close on the normally open pins that sit above it, closing the connection on your fogger switch (just like if you had pressed it) producing fog.

now, hook your relay up to the same power source that will control your sander, so when power is applied to your sander, there will also be power applied to your relay causing a fog blast.. 

its really really super easy.. if you need any help hooking it up, reply to this thread and I can walk you through it.. ill even talk to you over the phone if you need.

I use relays for the exact same thing you are using them for (for fog) but I also hook one of my hacked screamer toys to the other set of pins, so when my prop is triggered, you will hear the amplified scream and a blast of fog.. its super simple and very effective.

if you really want to do it right, get a tripple or quad relay (3 or 4 sets of pins, instead of just 2) that way you can wire other stuff up to your prop to activate as well.. ever wanted to activate a "try me" button on a prop to get flashing eyes? well, you can with a relay.


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## confucius101 (Aug 12, 2009)

wow thanks for the info and link 
I'll hit you up when i run into problems LOL 


as for the chair 











the lights on the chair will all go into a surge and then to a remote on / off 

and the sander , fogger, and strobes the same way off a sep remote


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## vonroll (Sep 5, 2006)

I picked up a timer at Target yesterday for $2.50. (75% 0ff) 
Anyway, it's a Heshan Lide Electronic Enterprise Company Ltd. brand. (how's that for a Chinese company? ). Anyway, model: FWC-4. Looks like the timers here. I'll give it a hack and see what happens. Great info in this thread. Thanks!


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## onedge30 (Sep 2, 2008)

vonroll, any luck with that hack? That is the exact model timer I have. I am trying to figure out how to hack it to control a 120v water pump.

My goal it to just make an independent timer unit to use on 120v props, like a water pump or a 120v solenoid.

Any thoughts out there? I will post some pics later of the timers I have. 

Thanks

Jeff


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## vonroll (Sep 5, 2006)

Hey Jeff... haven't tested it yet. Was going to use this same wiring that Diabolik recommended on the first page of this thread. However, I'm not following the diagram in my head right. Where is the hot (white) to the outlet in that pic? Or is it enough that the black goes to hot? I'm confused.


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## onedge30 (Sep 2, 2008)

Ok, here we go:

1st picture is the type of timer I am using. 2nd picture is the mother board. 


















3rd picture is the set up using the wiring diagram from post #1 by Diabolik. The light is just for testing the timing.










Now to the fun: it did not blow up! Yea, but the only time it will work, and ONLY ONCE is when the timer and power buttons are down and the manual button is pressed for 5 or more seconds. Only the manual light is lit on the timer unit with timer and power buttons up or down.

My guess is that the unit needs to be fully powered so that all the lights of the timer are lit. Help? I am tying to configure the wires so that all the lights are lit.

Next try will be with this unit, wired like post #1. 










Jeff


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## onedge30 (Sep 2, 2008)

Sorry about the picture size, I will fix it.

BUT- I have tried the two different wiring diagrams and both do not work with the 'walmart' fog timer. 

Help, please. I have tried several other configurations based on my limited experience with relays and electrical wiring. Nothing seems to work. 

Has anyone been able to get #2 walmart diagram to work? 

Jeff


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## onedge30 (Sep 2, 2008)

Just to show how I am wiring, here is my working diagram. It shows both #1 and #2 layouts.








[/IMG]

Again, has anyone produced working models off the diagrams. 

Thanks,

Jeff


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## onedge30 (Sep 2, 2008)

vonroll, here you go. All fixed. This is the diagram to have the timer work a light on for a short duration then off for the interval. 










Basically the fix was just connecting the one wire to the NC insted of the NO on the relay. 

Sorry about all the fuss. This was just very important for me to work out for a current project that needed a timer, now.

Jeff


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## daemon kane (Jun 30, 2008)

i have a lightning prop that i run off of the timer in picture 1, it works just fine. what you have to do is fully power the timer and let it act as a switch for the outlet. so the hot and the common are live and the third wire from the timer runs to the outlet hot and the outlet neutral is attached to the live neutral as well. i'll see if i can get you some pics showing which is the switch wire.


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## Diabolik (Apr 10, 2006)

If you are having any problems getting the WalMart timer to work properly, you may need to add a resistive load (I.E. a lightbulb) across your relay coil. I found that the Walmart Timers needed a little bit of a load on them before they would work properly. See the label on the back of you timer in the picture on the right. " Timer is designed to control a resistive load." Hope that helps...






onedge30 said:


> vonroll, here you go. All fixed. This is the diagram to have the timer work a light on for a short duration then off for the interval.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## luckycat (Feb 23, 2010)

*More about the timer*

This particular hack didn't work for me. Maybe mine is a bit different.
Please see the attached photo - this does work for this model.

Pay close attention to the wire colors and observe the one amp limit.

Luckycat


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## MRSBIGD (Oct 7, 2011)

Ok, i have read this more than a few times, but still do not understand. I have a home party dk-f006r fog machine & i am trying to hack in the heshan lide (fwc-4) timer. Can anyone please please help me?


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## ryanlamprecht (Oct 8, 2009)

rick12667, I've never wired anything to do with timers. The most I've ever done is wire up some vent motors to run continuously, so at this point it's all just a tad bit beyond my comprehension. In reading this thread, I can tell it's all pretty simple if you understand the language and the concepts. Put it this way, I've seen a picture of a really, but have no idea of its purpose, what it does, or the concept behind it. If you ever get the time, can you please post a step by step so someone like myself, or a 4 year old, could hack one of these, just as you did? Pictures would be really nice too. Pictures that I can color with crayons would be even better : ) The wiring diagrams everyone's posting, from my perspective, seem to be in Chinese. I'm sure there are a lot of us out there that would really love to have something like this to power our props, and would really appreciate being lead by the hand on how to do this.
Thanks, Ryan


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## Big_B (Oct 20, 2008)

This may not be entirely correct, but I think of a relay as a switch that operates another switch on another circuit. The circuits are isolated from each other with respect to energy. I'm going to be working on a hacked motion sensor relay/fog timer this weekend, and if I'm successful I'll see if I can add anything.


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## ryanlamprecht (Oct 8, 2009)

Great Big B, if you could do a how to, that would be great. In considering your audience, please remember, for some of us, changing the battery in the smoke detector is over our heads. Ha, I made a pun!


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## Big_B (Oct 20, 2008)

I've been trying to combine some of what is in this thread and here with the simple fogger trigger (which I'll admit is not really the scope of this thread). Basically using a relay to trigger the "fog now" button, but neither of the motion sensors I have have relays - they are some sort of solid state device. I'll break open my timer like the ones above tonight and see if I can make sense of it in the context of what people are trying to do in this thread.

I'm by no means an electrical expert, but take this in a light hearted way: If you aren't comfortable around electricity be careful with these things. I was shocked (ha!) to discover that the switches were running full 120v. I figured they would be stepped down somehow.


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## ollieee (Sep 16, 2010)

What is confusing most people with this hack is that the lights and or motion sensors are controled by switching the hot and that is typical for 120 volt controls. But most of these fog machines are controlled by switching the neutral via a button or timer that is why these hacks are using a relay added to the circuit. Also the relay increases the amount of current you can control. I hope that helps some of you.


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## Big_B (Oct 20, 2008)

Woohoo I got it!

I've never worked with relays, but I've been wanting to due to some other projects waiting until after Halloween (a thermostatic cooling fan on a classic car for example). For those that haven't played with one, here's how it works (Any experts around please correct me if I'm wrong): The relay has a coil that operates a switch when power is applied closing a circuit (electromagnetic I think). Mine has two circuits (DP - Dual Pole) that can be opened or closed (DT - Dual Throw). Below is the diagram off the package for the one I got at Radio Shack. A switched power (like a motion sensor bulb circuit) will close the normally open circuit allowing current to flow through (just like the switches on the controllers).

I haven't configured it for a final layout, so excuse the sloppiness but here is how I got it to work:
1) Solder up two jumpers/leads from the back of the "Manual" button on the timer. I didn't even take the circuit board out of the case, just looked at it and figured out which ones.
2) Plug those two leads into the relay across the NC and O poles on the same circuit per the previous diagrams posted above. (Although I'm seeing a connection between the C and coil which I didn't do - Why is that there?)
3) Attach 120v source to coil side of relay. I used an old lamp cord plugged into a light bulb-to-socket adapter which was plugged into a motion sensor on an outdoor box.

Again this is just with everything on the ground with bad lighting and not cleaned up. The clear light bulb in the other socket of the motion sensor is just so I can be sure it is triggering.
View attachment 92769


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## ollieee (Sep 16, 2010)

@ Big B Regarding your question (Although I'm seeing a connection between the C and coil which I didn't do - Why is that there?)
The common to coil jumper is where the others are getting the 120 volt source. You however look like you are picking it up threw the orange cord you have connected to the motion sensor and there for do not need the jumper. Your version is still using the controller’s factory cable to control the fogger. Note the other versions in this thread are just to control external props without controlling the fogger. Hope that answers your?
I like your version of this hack. By not cutting the controllors cable it still lets you control the fogger that’s very cool!


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## Big_B (Oct 20, 2008)

Hmmm. I think I get what you are saying, maybe I'll mess with it some more to figure out how to do that. Yes, the coil is getting power from the motion sensor.

The controller still works exactly as intended, so with some proper mounting hiding all the live connections (maybe to a project box) you can have the controller with timer and manual control, and a sort of motion sensor override. I also have one of the wireless controllers available - If I have time tonight I'm going to open it up and see if I can do the same thing.

Either way I think I've strayed/derailed this discussion too much from what the original purpose of this thread. Sorry about that. Hopefully what I did helps though. My hack probably fits better over here.


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## ollieee (Sep 16, 2010)

I believe you can buy a Y adaptor that would tie in between the factory cord and the fogger. I would be a C13 to C14 splitter cable with which you would not need to even open up the controller or do any soldering. I think it would make a very clean job of it you would simply cut the third leg off the Y adaptor (I would install the cable and relay in a weather proof box) crimp on female spades like you did using the wire colors that correspond with your controller brand. Not all foggers are wired the same so be very careful with this I know this will work on mine but my fogger is no longer produced.


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## rockonup (Sep 23, 2011)

I have this timer and it is not working for my 400 WAtt fog machines the green light looks like its shorting out, I have this timer below Im good with electronics and soldering just need to confirm which wires need to be switch on the board below is the pics of the timer I have.


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