# ATX Power Supply Conversion



## bkr1969 (Nov 29, 2009)

I've had several thoughts as to how to connect the supply wires to whatever props I need. This seems simplest and most multi-functional to me. I left everything connected as is and simply attached a terminal block to the top of the case.









Since I leave the plugs connected and this supply has its own switch, I simply jumper the green to ground. In the picture you can see where I've already cut off three orange wires because I'm using this for powering a set of 3V flickering tea light candles.


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## bkr1969 (Nov 29, 2009)

The advantages to this method are that you don't have to mess with a lot of unnecessary wires, connecting any sort of plugs, and you can switch out the supply and use it for different voltages depending on where you need it. I'm powering 7 candles, but I didn't want to fill up the whole strip with 3V, and I needed room for ground connections too. You could always attach multiple strips, but this is the only one I had on hand. I decided that 3 connections would be sufficient, that way I'd have room for additional 5 or 12V connections if needed. I clipped three orange and three black wires from the main plug and screwed them into the terminal.









Now my candles can be connected to the terminals. Two, two, and three wires respectively.


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## bkr1969 (Nov 29, 2009)

Here's a shot of the seven candles running off the supply. I hope this helps everyone power up all the props they build. let me know if you have any questions.


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## Darrin Plank (Sep 21, 2012)

thank you. This is exactly what I'm looking for.


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## joepolicy (Sep 19, 2008)

Excellent tutorial. For those folks who may be "electrically" challenged, Season Entertainment makes a ATX power supply breakout board for about $20.00

http://www.seasonalentertainmentllc...4-24-pin-atx-power-supply-breakout-board.html

Of course, free is always better!

Joe


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## Abunai (Jan 28, 2008)

I was just thinking about simplifying the process with this "breakout board" approach yesterday.
Looks like somebody beat me to it.


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## CreepyCreations (Oct 16, 2011)

Nice posts. Although, I must admit, an ATX supply for some tea lights seems like a bit of overkill, but it'll get the job done. I use old PC supplies for a lot of my more recently built scares. They are awesome. Tons of power and almost perfectly silent.


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## SavageEye (Aug 30, 2010)

*disclaimer*

Just make sure that when you do this that you have unplugged your power supply for some time before taking it apart. These supplies contain high voltage and if you touch the wrong thing... No more Halloween prop making for you!


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## Pennywise (Oct 21, 2004)

I have done this before but it seems you need to have a load across the 5V wires or the power supply will turn itself off. I had to buy a wire wound resistor to keep it running. I didn't see you do that here and it still worked. How to you get it to run without the load on the 5V?


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## Raven's Hollow Cemetery (Jul 3, 2011)

Great post BKR, ATX psu's are a haunters best friend, no doubt. I've been using them for years, and I never even thought to post a tutorial on them.  


Incidentally, I have a 750w that's powering several components (and has the capability for many more), embedded in my entrance columns. My wiper motor powered FCG also runs off another 550w, and it handles the UV cold cathodes, mp3 player, and Tripath amp for the sound fx as well.  Computer PSU's are a animatronics builders favorite companion by far.  




Pennywise said:


> I have done this before but it seems you need to have a load across the 5V wires or the power supply will turn itself off. I had to buy a wire wound resistor to keep it running. I didn't see you do that here and it still worked. How to you get it to run without the load on the 5V?



This is typically only true of psu's found in OEM computers, and only some of them require a constant load. Higher quality psu's, and specifically ones designed for custom or DIY builds never have this issue. You do have to pay attention to OEM versions, as they are sometimes wired & color coded differently on the 20/24 pin Molex than the standard ATX spec. 


Using proprietary PSU's, is just one way they gouge consumers (their off warranty labor rates & parts prices are ridiculous. Moreso on the parts, because their motherboards/psu's/mem/hdd's/ssd's are below standard quality wise, made by the lowest bidder (Military quality? ). But, they're priced similarly to high end premium components. Apple included...scratch that, especially), by having to rely on factory service for off the shelf computers btw. I'll stop my diatribe against the OEM's right there...



Just an FYI for everyone in general, the cheap psu's very often don't meet their rated output specs. Some, not even 50% of their rated specifications. That's not extremely important to most of the haunt crowd, but the cheap ones also have terrible voltage regulation (sag under load or worse, overshoot), and often, very bad ripple. So, if it's a mission critical/high power application, or a circuit requiring clean power, by all means spend a bit more and get a better quality psu. 


Feel free to ask me about any specific psu model/manufacturer/etc when choosing one for your project.


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## Palmdale Haunter (Sep 26, 2010)

I can tell you from personal experience, check every wire with a volt meter...
The color coding and pin out is not always followed especially if the PSU is a Dell...
I have seen the same color wire with two different voltages.
A tip is to search for your PSU model number (Google is who I use) and see if someone has done this for you already...
The Halloween crowd is not the only group to use this technique.


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## wandererrob (Aug 21, 2007)

I scored a couple of ATX power supplies for free off my local Freecycle list. It seems there's always somebody with a computer graveyard in their basement or garage that's all too happy to unload a few things.

I used two of them to power my whole haunt. With the exception of one 110V prop, all of my lighting is 5-12v LED. One ATX powers all the outside stuff, a second one is dedicated to the garage. 

I LOVE these things. Quiet, well-regulated power at a variety of useful voltages.


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## bkr1969 (Nov 29, 2009)

Not all supplies need that load to operate. I have one that does, but none of my others do. It's pretty easy to tell if you don't get a voltage reading on a meter without.


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## bkr1969 (Nov 29, 2009)

CreepyCreations said:


> Nice posts. Although, I must admit, an ATX supply for some tea lights seems like a bit of overkill, but it'll get the job done. I use old PC supplies for a lot of my more recently built scares. They are awesome. Tons of power and almost perfectly silent.


In this case, the supply ends up not only powering the 7 tea light pillar candles, but also 3 more in a Funkin jack-o-lantern, a couple of 12V LED spots and most likely my "Creepy Baby" next year (both 5 and 12V). Even if only for the 7 candles, It's a lot easier than turning individual lights on and off every night and having to replace batteries.


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## thisain'tmayberry (Jan 25, 2010)

> I've had several thoughts as to how to connect the supply wires to whatever props I need. This seems simplest and most multi-functional to me. I left everything connected as is and simply attached a terminal block to the top of the case.


I use this method as well. Additionally, I place a Qkits MX-033 PWM motor controller inside the ATX case and wire it directly to a +12v (yellow) lead. I stick the pot knob out a hole and shazam - instant power/speed control for a wiper motor in a nice little package. I use these to control a FCG like Raven, as well as a heavy duty Axworthy and a couple of CDF zombies. Like Palmdale mentioned - and I learned the hard way - you have to test those leads; don't trust the color codes.


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## kermat13 (Jul 13, 2008)

What is a CDF zombie?


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## thisain'tmayberry (Jan 25, 2010)

*What is a CDF zombie?*

Sorry, that would be a Case De Fear zombie, which can be seen here.


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## kermat13 (Jul 13, 2008)

Thanks--I am working on that one now--can't wait to see how it self destructs itself


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## thisain'tmayberry (Jan 25, 2010)

Double nut and Loctite!


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## Raven's Hollow Cemetery (Jul 3, 2011)

thisain'tmayberry said:


> I use this method as well. Additionally, I place a Qkits MX-033 PWM motor controller inside the ATX case and wire it directly to a +12v (yellow) lead. I stick the pot knob out a hole and shazam - instant power/speed control for a wiper motor in a nice little package. I use these to control a FCG like Raven, as well as a heavy duty Axworthy and a couple of CDF zombies. Like Palmdale mentioned - and I learned the hard way - you have to test those leads; don't trust the color codes.




The pwm controller in the psu case is a pretty good idea. It's exactly what I did w/ my FCG, albeit I rolled my own PWM controller since I had +/- 90% of the parts already lying about.  



___________________________________________________________________________________________________________


On the topic of connections, if you're planning on a project that will be around long term, you could also consider just using a matching "ATX" 20-24 pin male connector, and harness everything together. Their actual designation is "Molex Mini Fit Jr" - and then the pin number designation. eg: Mini Fit Jr 24 Pin Male


Note: On 90 degree ATX/Mini Fit Jr header types, the pins are molded into the connector, on straight types, the pins are NOT included, and must be purchased seperately. Whilst many will recommend the specific Molex Mini Fit Jr. crimpers, and they're very pricey, you can do the job with a good pair of needlenose pliers in a pinch. IF the connections are going to be stressed repeatedly through movement, just solder the pins onto the wires after crimping. 


This is one of my favorite suppliers for this specific sort of thing: http://www.frozencpu.com


Honestly, using them is a lot more convenient & faster than making all of the compression connections on those barrier strips individually. And as everyone knows, as the big night approaches, every moment counts.


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## Blarghity (Sep 2, 2012)

I'm in the midst of replacing the power supply on a frankenputer with some parts dating back to the 1990's, and while ensuring the wiring on the new PSU is up to standard, I ran across this website that details the motherboard connector pinouts for several types of newer power supplies, which should be a big help in adapting other PSU types for your Halloween power projects. I think I want to get ahold of a WTX power supply for my "zone of control" power system project.


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## Raven's Hollow Cemetery (Jul 3, 2011)

Blarghity: I'd discount the WTX psu's unless you either have access to salvaging freebies out of 2u servers, or are in dire need of the smaller form factor for a very specific reason. WTX supplies aren't exactly priced well when contrasted to an ATX form factor psu, with most being a good 1/3 - 1/2 again more expensive than similarly wattage rated ATX versions of better quality.


By better quality, I mean that Zippy, who makes the best WTX form factor psu's on the market, doesn't hold a candle to the better designed topology of higher echelon Flower, Seasonic, or Zippy full ATX power supplies at similar price points. For example: I paid about $30 less for the top rated Seasonic built Corsair, AX-750 I'm using in my current system, than your typical WTX 510 w psu costs. That being said, freebies trump any of the latter portions of my post.


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## Blarghity (Sep 2, 2012)

So, rummaging through the garage today, I found a box full of computer bits, including a pair of old PSUs. One is an old AT power supply that came out of the case of an old 386sx16. Awesome part, along with the ridiculously beefy power switch from the computer case still attached, it also still had the power lock (essentially a switch that requires a key). Tonight, I discovered that power lock works perfectly as a power switch between PS_ON green wire and a ground - instant security for a publicly accessible haunt like the one I run. No more curious interlopers messing with the power and potentially damaging equipment.

I also found myself in the possession of a Compaq PS2021 power supply. Holy cow! You think you need to worry about manufacturers sticking to the color coding of the wires in an open standard? Compaq couldn't even stick to the right colors in their own proprietary standard! The only wires that were correctly coded were the two white wires for a power switch. And boy was it fun finding a pinout chart for that! So yeah, invest in a decent multimeter. 

Both work, so I have two more conversions to make in the future.


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## thisain'tmayberry (Jan 25, 2010)

> Compaq couldn't even stick to the right colors in their own proprietary standard!


That would be hilarious if it wasn't so scary!


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