# Prime Reaper aka The Grand Reaper



## Madburner (Sep 17, 2010)

I'll post a video of everything in action as well.


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## azdude (Aug 6, 2008)

You can get a switch, battery holder and just about any other electronic thingy at Jameco. Do a search on that site for "battery holder" and you can find many options. I am sure you can find one at radio shack as well if you have one nearby. My suggestion is to get a 9V battery holder and get a 330 ohm resistor and a simple switch from radio shack. Or if you want to use a holder for 2 AA or AAA batteries you should use a resistor about 120 ohms. And both of the LEDs you have will work fine - they are essentially the same thing - one just has a cover on it.


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## Hooked_on_Scares (Apr 16, 2009)

I swear I posted to your other thread, but I can't find it now. DOH

If you're looking for two different brightnesses from the same LEDs, I'd suggest the following. Use the 2AA batteries (9V will get used up much faster), and an SPDT toggle switch (ON1-OFF-ON2). Connect them up like this...

ON1------------/\/\/---- AA+
COMMON------|>|----- AA-
ON2--------\/\/\/\/----- AA+

(The LED is connected at the COMMON switch terminal, if the ASCII art isn't clear enough)

Make the red resistor 47 Ohms, and make the blue resistor 160 Ohms. This will give you ~20mA for the ON1 setting (bright), and ~5mA (dim) for the ON2 setting. If the ON2 is too dim, you can connect (2) of the 160 Ohm resistors in parallel, and then get 10mA instead of 5.

- Hook


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## Madburner (Sep 17, 2010)

azdude said:


> You can get a switch, battery holder and just about any other electronic thingy at Jameco. Do a search on that site for "battery holder" and you can find many options. I am sure you can find one at radio shack as well if you have one nearby. My suggestion is to get a 9V battery holder and get a 330 ohm resistor and a simple switch from radio shack. Or if you want to use a holder for 2 AA or AAA batteries you should use a resistor about 120 ohms. And both of the LEDs you have will work fine - they are essentially the same thing - one just has a cover on it.


okay, I'm going to go with the battery option. I gotta have a battery holder small enough to hide in the handle of the scythe, preferable a long thinner batter holder, I'm trying to find that along side the 120ohms resistor you were referring to but couldn't find it on that site. forgive my lack of knowledge on electrical work but how and why does the 120ohms resistor matter when assembling an led lighting kit?


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## Madburner (Sep 17, 2010)

Hooked_on_Scares said:


> I swear I posted to your other thread, but I can't find it now. DOH
> 
> If you're looking for two different brightnesses from the same LEDs, I'd suggest the following. Use the 2AA batteries (9V will get used up much faster), and an SPDT toggle switch (ON1-OFF-ON2). Connect them up like this...
> 
> ...


Is there such a switch that could I could slide gradually that would control the dim and brightness of an led light? Like one that's found in a house bulb (kitchen or certain parts of newer houses) that has a smoother dimming switch? 

Also, I looked on the site azdude mentioned, and was wondering if this was the switch you were referring to?
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_317308_-1

I'm trying to order all my parts to do everything just from 1 place. and Jameco seems to have a pretty extensive catalog.

Thanks for the help so far!


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## azdude (Aug 6, 2008)

Madburner said:


> okay, I'm going to go with the battery option. I gotta have a battery holder small enough to hide in the handle of the scythe, preferable a long thinner batter holder, I'm trying to find that along side the 120ohms resistor you were referring to but couldn't find it on that site. forgive my lack of knowledge on electrical work but how and why does the 120ohms resistor matter when assembling an led lighting kit?


A resistor is required to limit the current through the LED or it will burn up. As a rule of thumb, most standard LEDs are specified to work at a current of 25mA. So you can determine what resistor size you need by taking the voltage you will be using and divide it by .025. So for example, if you are using a 9V battery then 9/.025 gets you a resistor value of 360 ohms. Or if you are using 2 AA batteries together that gets you 3V so 3V/.025 gets you 120 ohms.

Resistors only come in specific values so if they don't have exactly the one you need then just get the next highest value resistor. I looked on the Jameco site and they only sell single resistors in bags of 100 so my recommendation is that you buy an "assortment pack" like this one that does not have a 120 ohm but does have a 150 which would work fine. This way you have plenty of resistors for next year!


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## Hooked_on_Scares (Apr 16, 2009)

Yes, that's an SPDT switch. Would be perfect for what I showed in the diagram.

azdude's mostly right on the resistor calculation. The other thing you need to take into consideration is the forward voltage of the LED (aka: Vf). With battery voltages this low, this affect will be significant. Take a look at this post, where I talk a little more about it, and point to a great online calculator for LEDs. 

If you're really looking for variable brightness, you could do that with a potentiometer. In this case, the current you're using is low enough that it won't burn up the pot. Normally, with LEDs, you want to use a circuit (PWM) to control brightness. But if you're looking for quick and dirty, this could do the trick.

Connect the + of your 3V battery to the anode of the LED.
Then connect the cathode of the LED to a 50 Ohm 1/4 Watt resistor
Connect the other end of the resistor to the center connection on this pot.
Finally, connect one of the outer connections on the pot to the - of your 3V battery.

This will let you control the resistance between 50 and 150 Ohms, which will affect how much current goes through the LED, which will affect how bright it is.

Oh yeah... and probably a good idea to stick a switch in there too (only SPST is needed now), in order to turn the light completely off.

- Hook


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## JustWhisper (Nov 16, 2008)

I am not trying to be a smart ass so please don't take it that way.

"Mirror Tint or smoke tint. (two way mirror tint of course) I checked for it at a near by home depot and they didn't have any, does anyone know what major store sells them, offline?"

This is actually One-Way mirror tint you are looking for. You can only see through one side as it is mirror on the other. Two way would be glass. Anyway, are you still looking for some? I got mine at Home Depot, but if yours is out I wondered if you asked them about ordering some for you. Or try Lowes, or an automotive store. This will be a cool outfit if you can pull it off. Good luck. I want to see pics.


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## Madburner (Sep 17, 2010)

freaking people at home depots are a bunch of tools (no pun intended) they don't know much jack worth crap when it comes to this little small home made electronics or window filming. I've asked for help from several people, and they all seem to be sort of answers. So this is what I've decided to do. I've got in contact w/ a buddy of mine who does window tinting on cars and buildings, he's told me about the 2 optional mirror tints, one that normally done on Mercedes Benz that has a sky/smoke mirror tint to it and the other where it's a mirror tint but the light is dampened. These are the only known mirror tints to exist. So, I bought some flat safety goggles and removed the eye piece of it. So now I'm going to cut it down just a bit to fit just over the eye socket and not cause a huge bulge because where the goggles originally caused my mask to have a deformed and unnatural look to it. So once the eye piece is shaved down to the right size, I'll apply the mirror film to it and once that's done, I'm going to put the EL wire that I just order right on top of it. and Fasten all of it w/ some good ol hot glue gun.

So, hopefully now when people take my picture, there'll be a sparkle flash in my eyes w/a hint of red glowing aura in it!

O_O

I'm gonna be working on it tomorrow evening and I'll be sure to take a pic of everything and post it up!


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## Madburner (Sep 17, 2010)

also does anybody have an mp3 scary sound clip/voice/effect they suggest that would send chills down anyones spine when they hear me play it (and think I'm talking)?


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## Madburner (Sep 17, 2010)

just bought my final round of things from depot,

I decided to remake the staff of the reaper blade. I'm gonna make it look like a bone staff (I'll try to do a spinal column if possible). It's gonna reach 8ft. I bought the following @ home depot

Speaker Wires (Is this the best wire to use to light up the leds? or is there a better one?)
3/4 PVC + connecting pieces
Dremel Tips
Great stuff spray paint (gonna use this to shape the bones
Paint- White and Black (gonna use this to spray the foam and give it a bone look)

Currently looking for (vertical battery holder that can hold either 2,3, or even 4 batteries. Or if someone can recommend a device that has this in it and I can gut it if the device isn't to expensive.

I'll upload some pics tomorrow


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## Hooked_on_Scares (Apr 16, 2009)

Speaker wire (or any wire, for that matter) is just fine for the LEDs. What else will you be running with the batteries? If it's just the LEDs, wiring up the batteries to be higher voltage won't make them last any longer (the additional power will just get burned up in the resistor). On the other hand, if you wire them in parallel, to increase the current, then they will last longer.


Assuming AAAs, AAs, Cs, or Ds

2 Series
-BATT+ -BATT+ = 3V

4 Series (LED resistor burns up more power, batteries don't last any longer)
-BATT+ -BATT+ -BATT+ -BATT+ = 6V

2 Parallel * 2 Series
-BATT+ -BATT+ = 3V _ Twice the current &
-BATT+ -BATT+ = 3V -- twice the life

- Hook


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## Madburner (Sep 17, 2010)

Hooked_on_Scares said:


> Speaker wire (or any wire, for that matter) is just fine for the LEDs. What else will you be running with the batteries? If it's just the LEDs, wiring up the batteries to be higher voltage won't make them last any longer (the additional power will just get burned up in the resistor). On the other hand, if you wire them in parallel, to increase the current, then they will last longer.
> 
> 
> Assuming AAAs, AAs, Cs, or Ds
> ...


I didn't know if there was a certain gauge wiring would make a difference on how it conducted power to the leds from the battery.

As far as battery is concerned, I'm using double AA batteries and was looking for a battery holder (something like this, but 2 vertically attached ones, http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062247&numProdsPerPage=60) .

So I haven't used a resistor when I was testing the connections, *do I really need one if I'm gonna do a simply on off switch w/ 2 or 4 AA batteries?* Also keep in mind that I'm gonna be putting these batter in a 3/4 pole. 

One of the last things to get is a Switch (probably from Radio shack, consider the time restrain that I'm under), but my buddy recommends me to get it from an automotive place and strongly recommends that I get one that is heavy duty as most other tend to easily break down or fall inside the surface their placed on. Is this true?

The only thing I got against a heavy duty switch is that they tend to stick out and can become a paint to throw the switch off or on. like this one for example...










but I wanted something that would last a decent amount of time as well, but dunno about the trade off.

Like the ones below seem like they would be easy to throw off and on rapid to give a blinking sense, but I don't want it to break down after doing it like 10-20 times in a day. 









or this one,


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## Hooked_on_Scares (Apr 16, 2009)

Battery holder is perfect. I don't think I've ever seen anything with 2 AAs in series, so I'd suggest getting two of these, and wiring them in series (connect the black and red of the two holders together, then use the remaining black and red as your - and +, respectively)

I'd go with the black switch you showed. Then you don't have to paint it, and it won't stick out. The silver one would be fine, but sticks out. The red one I've had problems with - the red cap sometimes pops off. How are you planning on using this? Just turning on to 'reap' someone, or solid glow normally?

Yes, you need a resistor. LEDs with too much current don't blow out light lightbulbs. They slightly change color, and overheat - it takes a while for them to destroy themselves. You don't want that 'while' to be in the middle of Halloween night. 1/4 watt resistors are very small. You're not going to have any problems fitting it. You can pick them up at Radio Shack.

- Hook


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## Madburner (Sep 17, 2010)

I'll switch it on when I'm around someone, or make it blink when someone is far away. There will be times where i'll leave it on also. Thanks for the warning on the red capped one. 

As far as the resistor, I'll grab one as well today too.

Also gotta buy a hula hoop and some wire hangers to extend the parameters of my body to allow more space when I'm walking/skating so that I don't trip over the draping part of the costume.


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## Madburner (Sep 17, 2010)

Okay, ran into big problems. 

I hooked some speaker wires to the battery casing that smaller wires already hooked up to it. Now the problem I'm having is that the battery begins to run hot! extremly hot and very fast. I disconnect/throw the switch off. Why is this happen. I also know that I didn't get a resistor only because I didn't know what would the right one to get from radio shack as the sales guy didn't know jack **** about anything other than selling cell phone plan. I waited for 30mins to get a I don't know what resistor you need for that LED, what a waste. Also left my memory card at home, so no pics tonight. Can anyone tell me why the battery would heat up so quickly? is it because the wires that are pre-wired to the AA battery holders are smaller than the speaker wire??
or am I missing something completely. 

I've have it hooked up as positive+positive and negative to negative. and it hoooked up to the battery and led with the switch in between. What am I doing wrong?

The red LED specs are as follows:

5000mcd Intesity
Rated 2.4v, 20mA
T-3 1/4 (10mm) size


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## Hooked_on_Scares (Apr 16, 2009)

Does your circuit look like this? With at least 30 Ohms resistance?

View attachment 14066


If your batteries are heating up, that means they're delivering too much current. This could be because a) they're shorted to each other (+ to - AND - to +), b) the switch is shorting them, c) the lack of resistor is allowing (way) too much current through the otherwise properly-wired LED.

If you're not using a resistor, the only thing limiting the current is the internal resitance of the battery. Assuming you're using alkaline batteries, according to this white paper you've got about 0.15 Ohms of total resistance. That means....

I = (3V batt - 2.4V LED) / 0.15 Ohms
I = 4A of current, which would be 200x what that LED is rated for.

On the other hand...
I = (3V batt - 2.4V LED) / (0.15 Ohms batt + 30 Ohms resistor)
I = 19.9mA

You should be able to get the proper resistor at Radio Shack. If you can't find the exact value, 33 Ohms or 47 Ohms will do okay too. Or find 100 Ohms, and put 3 of 'em in parallel (= 33 Ohms).

- Hook


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## ViennaMike (Oct 14, 2008)

*slide potentiometer*

I realize it's probably too late for this year, but to adjust the brightness of the LEDs as you wanted, you want to do a google search for a "slide potentiometer" or for the terms slide variable and resistor. A potentiometer is a variable resistor. Most potentiometers use rotary dials. You wanted something you could slide up and down. The LED intensity WILL vary with voltage based on the pot value, but I don't know how linear the effect is. If the slide potentiometer 

As for spooky MP3's, try: James Earl Jones as Thulsa Doom in the Conan movie, "they will all drown in lakes of blood. Now they shall learn why they are afraid of the dark. Now they shall learn why they fear the night."

This is a wave file, but you can use a free converter program like Audacity with the mp3 plug-in to convert it to MP3, edit it, etc.

Hope this helps!


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## Madburner (Sep 17, 2010)

Thanks guys! I'm heading to Radio shack once again to get the resistors, oh and found out why the battery was getting hot, it was the fact that the wiring on to the led was wrong, we mixed Positive for negative. (when looking further inside the led, we saw that the big piece tip inside the led was indeed positive. Thank you very much for the chart, and now I know what to look for when coming up with a resistor.

Mike: Yeah, I'll look at improving this project w/ the variable slide switch later on (next year, thanks thouh, I'll refer back to this again) on the other hand I'm gonna check out those sounds links you posted when I return.

btw, My fog machine just came in, and I foresee a potential problem that maybe someone can help me come up with a solution. 

The fogger although small, is not light. It probably weighs 2lbs maybe less (with the battery attached to it), not sure. But the problem is that when I go to wear it and fit it next to my leg, I'm afraid the fog might only shoot up within my outfit and not dissipate all around me. If I face it forward, then it's gonna appear in the front, if I face it backwards it'll release the fog towards my back but if I face it down, then the fog will float right up inside the costume and not on the outside of it. Can anyone think of something that I can do to fix this?


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## Madburner (Sep 17, 2010)

Hooked_on_Scares said:


> Does your circuit look like this? With at least 30 Ohms resistance?
> 
> View attachment 14066
> 
> ...


Okay, can you draw me one that has two led, 4 batteries w/ cases w/ 1 switch. 

I got the resistors (2x 33ohms on th positive wire) like you said.


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## Madburner (Sep 17, 2010)

how can I tell which side is positive and which is negative??? could this b the problm?


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## Madburner (Sep 17, 2010)

update, when the light is on I get no overheating batteries, when I switch it off, then the overheating begins


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## Hooked_on_Scares (Apr 16, 2009)

Now that I look at it, 4 batteries is going to be way overkill. Just 2 should give you ~60 hours. I find soldering the resistors to the leads of the LEDs to be a clean construction, and easier to draw (when I can't find a pencil, and have to get it right the first time). But if you decide to do this, be sure not to heat up the LED too long with the soldering iron. Otherwise, just have a wire going from the LED lead to the resistor, then from the resistor to the battery.

Resistors don't have polarity. You can wire them up whichever direction.

NOTE: This diagram assumes Red LEDs (with Vf of 2.4V)


View attachment 14130


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## Madburner (Sep 17, 2010)

thanks, I'm gonna try this now.


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## Madburner (Sep 17, 2010)

oh one other thing, reading on the specs on the back of the led package states the following:

Absolute minumum ratings:

Forward Currnent (IF): 40mA max
Forward Voltage (Bf): 5VDC max
Reverse Voltage : 6VDC
Power Dissipation: 100mW

Electro-Optical Characteristics: 

Forward Voltage: 2.4V +_03V
Peak emmision wavelength: 660nm
Luminous Intensity: 5000mcd (type at 20mA)


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## Madburner (Sep 17, 2010)

so my VF is 5VDC max, what does this mean for the diagram you just drew up for me?


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## Hooked_on_Scares (Apr 16, 2009)

No, it's saying 2.4V is typical. That's what you'll need to go by, in this case.

- Hook


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## Madburner (Sep 17, 2010)

*problems with wiring*

okay here's some pics I have of the setup. Batteries are overheating when the switch is off.




As you can see in the pic of the skull with the led glowing, it's lighting up.


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## Madburner (Sep 17, 2010)

here's a close up view of the images


the last image doesn't show the other battery, but it's there and connected.


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## Hooked_on_Scares (Apr 16, 2009)

Alright-alright. I see what's going on now. Actually, the batteries are heating up whenever the switch is ON, not OFF. But when it's ON, it's shorting out the LEDs, so they turn off.

What's happening here is your fingers are holding the battery wires directly to the LED wires. So, the switch is irrelevant. But when the switch gets turned on, it's creating a short across the battery leads. The switch should go inline with the current to the LEDs, not across the LEDs. I'll try to walk you through, step by step, starting with the wire_setup image.


 Get the switch and switch wires outta there
 Twist the wires coming from the resistors together.
 Twist the wires coming from the LEDs together.
 Cover over each resistor with electrical tape - if these short to one another, you'll have more problems
 Connect the wire from the LEDs to the black battery wire
 Connect the wire from the resistors to one of the switch wires
 Connect the other switch wire to the red battery wire.

That should do it. Hopefully 
- Hook


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## Madburner (Sep 17, 2010)

what are you referring to in step 1?


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## Hooked_on_Scares (Apr 16, 2009)

#1 = Start fresh. Keep the wires on the switch, but remove the switch and its wires from the rest of the circuit.


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## Madburner (Sep 17, 2010)

*that seems to work*

okay, that worked, the pic I took shows the setup before I put the electrical tape on. I had to make sure it still didn't over heat and also made sure there were no other wires touching each other to create the short.


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## Madburner (Sep 17, 2010)

Okay, all works fine, after sodering and putting some electrical tape everything looks good to go. Then I notice one small problem. The right led light seems a bit dimmer than the other. What could be causing this?


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## Hooked_on_Scares (Apr 16, 2009)

Hmm... well, it might depend on how different they are. Are the resistor values the same? Is the angle you're looking at the LED the same? (some project like a beam, and if you look at them off-axis, they won't be as bright). You're sure nothing's shorting to itself, right? The only other idea I've got is that during the testing, if the (now dim) LED were subjected to unregulated current (i.e.: its resistor got shorted across), the LED could have gotten damaged.

- Hook


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## Madburner (Sep 17, 2010)

yeah, I'm just gonna chalk it up to a damaged led. I've sealed the handle up and will be stopping by radio shack once more today to get the LED.


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## Madburner (Sep 17, 2010)

okay, I've replaced the led and all works fine now. Now gonna work on the staff. Also need a lil help on getting the led for the costume eyes working. I got 3x 33ohms and 4x rectangular leds with the following specs:

Intensity: 80mcd
Wavelength:660nm
FW current: 20mA
FW supply: 1.9V (Typical), 2.4V (Max)

the switch im using for this one is I bought from amazon (will this cause any issue?) (EL WIRE)

Can you draw a best way to do this like you did in the previous diagrams?


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## Hooked_on_Scares (Apr 16, 2009)

take a look at the resistor calculator wizard. This will work for any configuration of batteries, number of LEDs, etc. Just enter in your battery voltage (3), forward voltage (1.9), and number of LEDs, and it does all the work for you.  Basically, you'll wire it up with the same configuration you used for 2 LEDs, but doubled.

You linked to some EL wire. Any switch should do, though.

- Hook


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## Madburner (Sep 17, 2010)

okay, it's mentioned with the following specs

3 source voltage
1.9 diode forward voltage
20 diode forward current (mA)
4 number of LEDs in your array

it's saying that I'll need 4 Resistors @ 56ohms. Is this accurate?


The wizard says: In solution 0:
each 56 ohm resistor dissipates 22.4 mW
the wizard thinks 1/4W resistors are fine for your application 
together, all resistors dissipate 89.6 mW
together, the diodes dissipate 152 mW
total power dissipated by the array is 241.6 mW
the array draws current of 80 mA from the source.

what's a little confusing is that since it mentions 56ohms in the diagram it drew out for me yet they mention that 1/4W resistors are fine for my application that are 2.2K Ohm 1/4-Watt Carbon Film Resistor (found at radio shack)


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## ViennaMike (Oct 14, 2008)

Madburner said:


> what's a little confusing is that since it mentions 56ohms in the diagram it drew out for me yet they mention that 1/4W resistors are fine for my application that are 2.2K Ohm 1/4-Watt Carbon Film Resistor (found at radio shack)


Madburner,
It's not telling you to use 2.2K Ohm resistors, right? Ohms measures resistance, the wattage is the maximum power the resistors can handle without burning out in a nice puff of smoke. So you want to use something close to 56 Ohm resistors (I'd err on the high side, but too high (like 2.2K ohms) will significantly dim your LEDs. 

I'm betting anything between 56 and 100 Ohm 1/4 watt resistors from Radio Shack (or wherever) should be fine.


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## Hooked_on_Scares (Apr 16, 2009)

Yes, it's accurate. Here's the process....

( [BATT VOLTAGE] - [DIODE FWD VOLTAGE] ) / [CURRENT] = [RESISTOR VALUE]

So... 

(3V - 1.9V) / 0.020A = 55 Ohms

But you can't get 55 Ohms, they're only readily available in 5% increments. So, you pick the next value *higher* (which will give you slightly lower current, which is safer). The next value that's available is 56 Ohms.

- Hook


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## Madburner (Sep 17, 2010)

damn! I just finish coming from radio shack and got the 2.2k ohm 1/4 5% tolerance cuz they didn't have a 56 ohm resistor. I guess I gotta hit them up again and look for a something in between 56 and 100? right


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## Madburner (Sep 17, 2010)

can i use 33olms? It's too late to get the 56olms. Would I risk burning out the led or resistors if I use it?


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## Xane (Oct 13, 2010)

Try using 2 of the 33 ohm resistors in series for 66.

2.2k = 2,200ohms. Maybe a little high...


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## Hooked_on_Scares (Apr 16, 2009)

( [BATT VOLTAGE] - [DIODE FWD VOLTAGE] ) / [RESISTOR VALUE] = [LED CURRENT]

So...
(3V - 1.9V) / 33 Ohms = 0.0333A or 33.333mA

And that's 2/3 _more_ than the 20mA recommended.  It'll light up - but it would probably burn out prematurely. How long, I have no idea. But, if you put two resistors in series, like Xane says (use the combo of two resistors single-file, instead of just one resistor per LED), you'd have...
(3V - 1.9V) / (33 Ohms + 33 Ohms) = 0.01666A or 16.666mA

Which would be okay. And, 16.666 is a much more devilish number, anyway - so I'd say run with it. But the equations aren't witchcraft... just plug in the numbers. The important thing with LEDs is a) don't over heat them, and b) don't give them more than their rated current, which.... over heats them

.... ahhh... but now as I'm re-reading your post, you have (4) LEDs but only (3) resistors (not the (8) 33 Ohm resistors that would be required) I'm afraid you're out of luck here. The only way you could make it work with the resistors you've got is if you can get a 9V in there. Using that, you could do this.... (from led.linear1.org)
View attachment 14711


Then you'd need only one circuit, so only one resistive element. So... you'd need at least...
(9V - 1.9V - 1.9V - 1.9V - 1.9V) / 0.02A = 70 Ohms or higher

So, if you put all (3) 33 Ohm resistors in series, you'd have 99 Ohms...
(9V - 1.9V - 1.9V - 1.9V - 1.9V) / 99 Ohms = 0.01414A or 14.14mA

which is again less than 20mA, so the LEDs would be safe.


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