# My Cemetery Column/Fencing How-To



## Phil Flanagan (Aug 2, 2014)

Here it goes, my first attempt at creating a tutorial for anything, ever. I figured it would be a good idea to give back to the community since I get a lot of my ideas from this site. 
As a reference, I am using a combination of these tutorials to create my scene for Halloween 2014: 
http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-and-step-by-step/77380-graveyard-columns.html
http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-and-step-by-step/64258-gothic-entry-2007-a.html

*Materials Used: *
2" x 2" x 8' lumber
2" x 2" x 42" lumber
2' x 2' x 1/4" plywood
2' x 4' x 1/4" plywood
4' x 8' x 1/2" plywood
1-1/4" exterior screws
2-1/2" exterior screws
1" x 3" x 8' furring strips
3/4" x 3-1/2" x 42" french gothic fence pickets
small finishing nails
5/16" x 2-3/8" x 8' White Polystyrene Base Moulding
11/16" x 11/16" x 8' White Polystyrene Cove Moulding

*Tools Used:*
Jigsaw with wood blade
Drill with 7/64" bit
Drill with 3/8" bit
Drill with Phillips head bit
Hammer
Table Saw 
Circular Saw (can be completely replaced with table saw, but I didn't have one at the start of my project so I'm listing it here as a possibility)

(these materials are for the build only; I will add materials for the prepping/painting/sealing as I get to those steps)








This was just the beginning. I didn't take pictures of the extra 2x2x42, fence pickets, 2x4x1/4 plywood, or the moulding that I had to run back out to get. You'll see the moulding in later steps, though.

To be continued...


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## Phil Flanagan (Aug 2, 2014)

The fencing:

I measured out my front yard and ended up needing 5 sections of fencing in between my columns. The longest is the full 96" of the 1x3 furring strip and the shortest is 36" 

NOTE: each picket was $1.29 at Lowes which adds up pretty quickly. I imagine you could make something equally creepy from salvaged free pallet wood, but I really liked the gothic design and didn't really have the energy to put into that many detailed cuts.

Here is the basic design:







I gave a 6" overhang for the furring strips so they could slide into the columns and be supported without hardware (more on that, later)
The only other measuring was from bottom of the end and center pickets to the bottom of the furring strip and the distance in between furring strips (you'll want to keep this the same on all your pieces to make it work with your columns. For reference, I went about 11-1/8" from bottom of picket to bottom of furring strip. Not sure offhand what the distance is between the two furring strips, but it doesn't really matter as long as you stay consistent.

And here is what it looks like finished:







Feel free to get creative with the pickets; not all of them have to be straight up and down. We didn't even measure! The end and center pickets, plus the overhang on the furring strips will be the main supports.

To be continued...


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## Phil Flanagan (Aug 2, 2014)

The columns:

My layout (as designed by my wife) looks something like this:
View attachment 206936

There will be a top entryway portion attaching the bottom part of the "L" shape in the picture much like what can be found in this tutorial: http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-and-step-by-step/64258-gothic-entry-2007-a.html

The two tallest columns will be 14" x 14" x 8' and the shorter ones are 14" x 14" x 42". This prevented me from having to cut the 2x2x42 and 2x2x96 lumber. Probably could've gone with 12" x 12" for easier math and less scraps left over from the 2' x 2' plywood sheathing, but it is what it is...

Basic Cuts for one column:
View attachment 206940


Four more ready to go:
View attachment 206941

This went much faster once I purchased a table saw. Everything I've ever constructed in the past has been done using just a circular saw.

Column taking shape:
View attachment 206942

I measured out 24" between the top two horizontal portions since the plywood was 2' x 2' to save a few cuts. NOTE: The "skeleton" of the column was all predrilled and is held together with 2-1/2" exterior screws.

With top sheathing installed: 
View attachment 206943

Cut sheathing to size and install with 1-1/4" exterior screws (or finishing nails, if that's your thing)

To be continued...


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## Phil Flanagan (Aug 2, 2014)

Columns, continued:

Okay, so many of you may be wondering about the hole in the sheathing on the last picture of my column. Well, that is a simple solution to make this year's scene modular and also adds some stability when it comes to the wind. Here's an explanation, in pictures:

Measure, and cut a slot for your fencing before attaching the sheathing:
View attachment 206946


Use some scrap 2x2 to screw onto the back for support:
View attachment 206948

View attachment 206950


Test fit:
View attachment 206951


View from inside with all sheathing and supports installed:
View attachment 206952


Fit test with all sheathing and supports installed:
View attachment 206953


Finished off the top of the column with some leftover plywood scraps while my wife started painting the fencing:
View attachment 206954


To be continued...


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## Phil Flanagan (Aug 2, 2014)

Column details:

The next step is to cut and install the moulding.

We moved operations inside with my year-round zombie door-greeter as our supervisor and knocked out the rest of the 42" tall columns:
View attachment 206956


Added the baseboard:
View attachment 206957

View attachment 206959


And then the cove moulding:
View attachment 206958


To be continued...


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