# Haunt Entrance Gate



## Terra (Sep 23, 2007)

Are you needing an impressive entrance to your haunt because currently it's just a tarp and the ToTs walk right by it? Walla! Plus - this helps set the mood to the horrors that wait beyond. The Haunt Gate is also lightweight, easy to store and lit.









This is a very large gate (8' x 6') so it is made of two halves (8' x 3') plus an optional inner curtain structure (8' x 5'). It also lights up. This tutorial does not show how to make the optional inner curtain but in the next step it will give a quick instruction. You could also simply attach curtain material to the back of the foam facade.

Materials Needed:
Two 2' thick 8' x 4' pink or blue styrofoam sheets
Foamboard adhesive or Glidden Gripper
Acetone
Drylok (water-based)
Exterior flat latex paint (warm brown color)
Black acrylic/latex paint
White acrylic/latex paint
Raw Sienna artist's acrylic paint
Green acrylic paint
Paper towels
Cheap clear corrugated roof sheet (around 3' x 8')
Several vibrant colors of acrylic paint
Green sheet moss
1" pink or blue foam sheet
60" 20 gauge wire
6 small zip ties
Glue sticks
Two string sets of 100 LED lights
Margaritas (keeps you happy)


Tools Needed:
Jig saw
Sharpie marker
12' ruler
Face mask
Caulk gun
Dremel with Multi-purpose cutting attachment
Stanley SureForm Shaver
Bowl
Basic brush
2" brush
Detail brush
3" brush
Tin snips
1/2" brush
Thin brush
Hot glue Gun
Wire cutters


Optional Inner Curtain:
Materials:
Black landscape fabric
Six 1" x 2" x 8' Furring strips
2 1/2" wood screws
Wood glue
3 screw hooks

Tools:
Jig Saw
Drill
Drill bit for wood screws
Scissors










Design: Here is the design of the gate on square paper. Five squares equal a foot or 2.4" a square. Assembled gate is 8' tall and 6' wide.

The gate is made of two halves of assembled foam. The outer doorway (outer foam panel) half piece is 3' wide at the top of the arch, 8' tall and 13 1/2" wide at the pillar. The inner doorway half piece (inner foam panel) 86" tall and 9 1/2" wide at the pillar. Remember, these are half measurements.










Pattern: Stained glass facade pattern. This is 10" tall and 7 1/2" wide.










Optional Inner Curtain (not pictured): Lay out four 1" x 2" x 8' furring strips vertically on the workbench. Spread the center apart to make an opening of 31 1/2" wide. Place a 61" furring strip at the top. 6' from the bottom, place a 31 1/2" furring strip. Place four 12" furring strips at the bottom and center of the two pillars. Screw all these together using wood screws. Glue fabric using wood glue to the whole thing (both sides) and cut slits in the fabric where people would walk through.

Doorway (top picture): Place the inner curtain over your first sheet of 2" foam and center it. Lightly draw where the walk-through is and remove the inner curtain. The opening should be about 6' tall and 31 1/2" wide.

Measure from the center of the bottom to the top 86" and mark. Now measure from one of the bottom edges up to 5' and mark. Draw an arching line from the top center mark to the 5' mark. Don your face mask and cut that side of the foam off using the jig saw. Take the cut piece of foam and flip over and trace out the arch shape on the other side (like a mirror image). Wear your face mask again and cut that side out too with jig saw. Leave the inner doorway foam intact for now. NOTE: Whenever you are cutting or shaping foam, wear a face mask. It creates very light foam snow that you could inhale. It's verrrry unpleasant coughing that back up...

Outer Arches (middle picture): (Warning: I honestly don't know how to explain verbally what I did here.... Basically, it's best to think this through on your own. You are trying to get as wide of a top span as you can (3') out of a 4' wide piece of foam yet still have a wide enough space for the other pillar at the bottom to make sense. So you trace out one piece from the bottom and then trace out the second piece from the top.)

Anyways, here's my attempt at an explanation, sorry. Place the cutout foam offset over the second sheet of 2" foam 13 1/2" from the edge. Lightly trace out the doorway frame of the first piece. Flip over and trace out the other side. Make sure the top span is 3' wide. Notice that at the bottom of the pillars it will have a chunk of about 2" missing. That's because you need that to achieve the 3' span at the top. I hope that wasn't confusing. Cut out with the jig saw.

Glue Together (bottom picture): Overlap the outer doorway over the inner piece by 2" and use foamboard adhesive to glue the edges together. Put weights over the foam and dry overnight. btw: Use scrap foam to support the overhang so it doesn't bend while drying.










Cut-out Doorway (not pictured): Design out how you want your door to look or follow my design. I decided on columns, stonework and stained glass. Cut out the doorway using your jig saw. Then separate the remaining arch into two pieces by cutting the top of the inner arch in half.

Grating (top-left picture): Find a pattern you like and trace it onto the foam. Alternately, you could cut out the pattern I provided. The pattern is designed to be butted up to itself and repeatedly traced out.

Cut Back Grating (top-right picture): Flip the foam over and using the Dremel with the multi-purpose attachment, cut out 1 1/4" deep channels many times so you can then 'pop' off the foam to bring the depth down to 3/4". Using the Stanley SureForm Shaver, smooth out the back.

Cut-out Grating (bottom picture): Flip arch back back over and cut out the traced designs using the Dremel.










(By the way, continue to use the leftover 2" foam pieces to support the outside doorway so it doesn't bend or flex while you are carving the foam.)

Shape Columns (left picture): Using the Stanley SureForm shaver, drag it down the center of one of the lines of a column. Angle the shaver and shave away one half of the line. Then do the other half. Repeat for all the lines of the column. At the top of the column I carved in ledges using the edge of the shaver.

Shape Stonework (right picture): You can use a cobble pattern or a straight stone pattern. I ended up liking the straight stone pattern better. So, using that Surform Shaver, first carve out the grout lines. Then add different angles to the stone itself. Soften the edges of the stone using the shaver.

Misc. Shaping (not pictured): I cut in some lines at the top of the inner doorway following the arch curve. Then, I went all over the edges and softened them up to help give a worn stone appearance. Continue to shape the entire foam doorway until you get a design you like.

Cut Cracks (not pictured): Take the edge of the shaver and hack in a crack. Then carve out the rest of the crack using lines splitting out from the main one. This takes guts to do, so, take a big swig from your Margarita. Glad you got that, huh?










Etching: To give the stone that etched, ancient look, put some straight acetone into a bowl. Don some eye protection and dip your basic brush into it and fling the brush over the foam so acetone strikes in droplets. By flinging I mean like you are trying to fling a spider off the end of your brush. Be a bit aggressive here. You want some splattering! I had the gate on the floor to make it easier to do this. Keep doing this until you get the look you like.










Drylok and Base Coat (left picture): To protect the stone from the elements, coat both sides twice with Drylok using a 2" brush. Then, base color the arch with exterior paint (I used a warm brown).

Enhancing Depth/Tea-staining (right picture): Using the same base color, tint it darker with some black paint. Using a detail paint brush, paint in all the cracks, holes and lines. This helps give the stone depth.

Water down your remaining depth paint a lot and dip your 2" brush in it so it is very wet. Starting at the top of the arch while is vertical, 'wash' the stone. The paint should drip down the arch face so it gets that weathered look. Repeat the 'tea-staining' step a few more times only in the inner doorway. This helps give the inner doorway even more depth than the outer doorway so you get the illusion that the door is bigger and deeper than it really is.











Drybrushing: Take some white paint and darken it slightly with the base paint. Using a very large brush, dip it in the paint and dry it off well with paper towels. Then brush lightly over the gate to highlight any raised sections of the stone. This will give the foam a stone-like appearance. Do less highlighting (drybrushing) on the inner doorway to keep the depth illusion. But do more on the outside column to help that stand out.










Detail Painting: To give the appearance that lichen and moss stained the stone over centuries, you will be adding pops of color. Using Raw Sienna paint and your 2" brush, mix with a little white and lightly paint a few sections of the stone. Then using green paint, mix with a little white and paint other sections.










Paint Plastic (left picture): Using cheap clear corrugated roof sheeting, determine the size you need for your stained glass opening and cut out using tin snips. Draw out your design using a Sharpie marker onto the cutout sections. Paint with the colors of acrylic paint you like using a 1/2" brush. Don't cover heavily because you want the LED lights to be able to glow through. Let dry and paint the 'lead lines' with a dark gray paint and thin brush.

Install Plastic and Lights (right picture): Fit into your opening (painted side down) and glue in using your glue gun. If there are any gaps you can fill them in with moss by gluing it in with the hot glue gun.

Lay out your LED lighting and hot glue into place being sure to have the plugs on the outside. Duh.










Cover with Foam Backing (left picture): Cover the opening with a thinner sheet of foam (1") and glue in place with foamboard adhesive. Using leftover blocks of the 2" foam, glue some into the overhanging doorway to even out the back of the arch. Try to have edges butting up to the taller edge. Use foamboard adhesive to glue together, weigh down and let dry overnight. This will also help to add some rigidity and strength to the arches. They are a little too flimsy without it.

Add Hooks (right picture): Push in a 10" length of wire into one of the foam blocks. Twist close and cut off excess wire. Insert a small zip tie into the opening and close the zip tie so a loop is showing and cut off the tail. Add strength and support by hot gluing around the foam so the wire wouldn't rip back through the foam. Do this at two places at the top and one near the bottom of each arch.

If this was going to be outside for a long time, go ahead and paint the new pieces of foam with Drylok to help protect them from the elements.

Moss (not pictured): Flip back over and hot glue some moss in a few sections of the gate. Be sure to also put some moss at those missing chunks of pillar at the bottom. Real moss really helps add realism to the stone.










Attach to Garage: Drill a hook at the left wall of the garage opening and at two places at the top. Now attach the inner door curtain securely to the garage. Wrap twine around the frame of the curtain and at the hooks. Once secure, use more twine to attach the zip tie loops on the foam arch to the frame of the curtain.

Plug the lights in and you are good to go. This project was sponsored by Margaritas – for when you truly need that drink and we ain’t talking water…


Thanks for checking out my tutorial.


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## ReaperRick (Sep 2, 2009)

You are amazing! Thank you for sharing your expertise!


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## darkmaster (Apr 29, 2009)

Nice work. I like the paint job and detail work involved.


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## savagehaunter (Aug 22, 2009)

Amazing work!!! I love the detales and all that can be done to make the props more 3d.


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## Ghost of Spookie (Sep 28, 2008)

Absolutely beautiful Terra. I'm glad you posted about it because as much as I enjoyed your haunt walk-thru video I didn't notice the entrance. Thanks for the tutorial and all the great illustrative photos. I'm so appreciative that amid all the work you do to get ready for Halloween each year with your haunt that you even find time to take pictures. I'm surprised how you always seem to come up with _several_ new stunning projects each year and stretch your skills. BTW have you posted a tutorial about using those cool paints yet? I'm personally looking forward to learning more about them.


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## devils chariot (Nov 6, 2008)

Geez Terra you are a master da pink foam! A great looking prop and a challenging project for sure.


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## DaveintheGrave (Feb 12, 2004)

Really nice looking entrance gate, Terra!
I really like the stained glass work and lighting!


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## alucard (Dec 1, 2008)

Great idea for a stain glass effect, and your faux painting skills... still the best I've seen!


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## savagehaunter (Aug 22, 2009)

the Mary Rutherford tombstone looks awesome. the tutorial of doing a tea stain is very helpful.


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## Guest (Nov 20, 2009)

Dang it, Terra! You're killing me with all these projects I have to steal from you! I can't keep up!! LOL 
As always, it's AMAZING!!!! 
Now, off to buy more foam..............


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## JohnnyAppleseed (Sep 17, 2008)

Well done Terra, love your technique, tips and tricks as always. Don't you just love making sure the dryloc get's into all those cracks and crevices, that in itself is enough to drive you to have a second "adult" beverage for sure!


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## SpookyMuFu (Sep 14, 2009)

Terra, what do you use to cut the foam for your tombstones, do you use a hot wire cutter, if so, where did you get it, and what does the dryloc do for the foam, is it just a sealer or does it strengthen them as well?


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## Uruk-Hai (Aug 31, 2008)

Amazing Terra!! I'm in total awe. I'll be referencing, I mean stealing, ideas from this when I go to do my mausoleum next year!  Great job!


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## Terra (Sep 23, 2007)

_*ReaperRick, darkmaster, savagehaunter, devils chariot, DaveintheGrave, alucard, savagehaunter, creeepycathy, *_
_*Uruk-Hai*_: Thank you all so much! This was a fun departure for me from tombstone work. Next year I'm going to take the lessons learned from this and make an exit gate. That or make this the exit and do something cooler for the entrance. 




Ghost of Spookie said:


> Absolutely beautiful Terra. I'm glad you posted about it because as much as I enjoyed your haunt walk-thru video I didn't notice the entrance. Thanks for the tutorial and all the great illustrative photos. I'm so appreciative that amid all the work you do to get ready for Halloween each year with your haunt that you even find time to take pictures. I'm surprised how you always seem to come up with _several_ new stunning projects each year and stretch your skills. BTW have you posted a tutorial about using those cool paints yet? I'm personally looking forward to learning more about them.


Thanks Spooki  I've gotten into the habit of just taking a picture continuously because you never know when I need to look back at what I did. Now I have to get into the habit of letting a camcorder roll while I do this. I like that I can show more info with video.

As for the ChromaDepth: I want to create my own designs for a few of the Chromadepth sections and so when I do this I'll be sure to put up a tutorial. There were quite a few lessons I learned with the ChromaDepth 3D illusion. Here's the most surprising thing: I got all my glasses returned!!! *WOW!* I counted them all up and all were accounted for . There were 22 of them too damaged to be used again but I got back far more than I thought I would. That was a relief! So for 300+ people going through, I just have to replace 22 glasses. So, A supply of 100 paper glasses would be pretty good number. Or get the plastic ones and you would probably need only 50. 




JohnnyAppleseed said:


> Well done Terra, love your technique, tips and tricks as always. Don't you just love making sure the dryloc get's into all those cracks and crevices, that in itself is enough to drive you to have a second "adult" beverage for sure!


HAHAHA! Yep, you got _*THAT*_ right! Then, I made things worse by adding a bunch of holes _(with the acetone)._ Took quite a bit to paint all those in. 



Scott N. said:


> Terra, what do you use to cut the foam for your tombstones, do you use a hot wire cutter, if so, where did you get it, and what does the dryloc do for the foam, is it just a sealer or does it strengthen them as well?


I use a jig saw. VERY quick work! I used a hot wire foam cutter once, a long time ago. *Too slow!* I like shaping with the Stanley Sureform Shaver better. 

The Drylok protects the foam and also adds strength _(plus a bit of weight)._ I just love that stuff...though...not the smell


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## operatingnurse (Aug 22, 2009)

You have got patience and talent wrapped up into one!


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## Drayvan (Sep 22, 2009)

Wow that looks awsome.. Very nice work.


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## dixie (Jan 30, 2009)

Terra, its just beautiful.... I love the aged look you gave to the foam with the acetone, but I think the most amazing thing to me is the stained glass via corrugated steal and vibrant paints - it looks so real, very impressive!!!


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## Terra (Sep 23, 2007)

Thanks o*peratingnurse* and *Drayven* 

*Dixie*, aww thanks. By the way, it wasn't corregated steel but corregated clear plastic...even cheaper


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## mr.creepy (Jul 12, 2009)

awsome job


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## Atum (Nov 21, 2009)

Looks great! Awesome job.


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## TNBrad (Sep 12, 2007)

WOW!!!!!!! another great and inspiring Tutorial.
You are awesome, thanks for sharing.


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## StanFam3 (Oct 5, 2009)

This is hands down one of my most favorite props/tutorials I've seen in awhile! LOVE IT LOVE IT LOVE IT!!! I'd so love to make something like this. We hope to be in our own house in 2010, so there's hope yet.


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## Bobamaltz (Dec 27, 2009)

Excelent job!


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## cinders (Oct 12, 2003)

Terra, you never cease to amaze! Great work, and great tutorial. I would love to do an entrance like that. I sure do want to utilize some of the techniques you've taught us.


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## Terra (Sep 23, 2007)

Thanks so much everyone!  

By the way, I realized that if I have people come into my haunt in the reverse direction this year... it will seem newer without a lot of changes. So, I get to build another haunt entrance gate, Cool! _heheh..._


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## Clad In Shadows (Mar 21, 2007)

Great prop ! Very Professional looking !


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## shadowopal (Sep 6, 2007)

Terra, Excellent work as always. With the foam shaver, isn't horribly messy? Is that the only shaping tool you use? No dremel or the like?


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## Terra (Sep 23, 2007)

Thanks much _*Clad in Shadows*_....




shadowopal said:


> Terra, Excellent work as always. With the foam shaver, isn't horribly messy? Is that the only shaping tool you use? No dremel or the like?


heheh...you've got that right! It makes a huge mess and if you do this...WEAR A MASK! The foam snow is so light...you will suck it into your lungs. Very unpleasant coughing that back up 

I basically use the Stanley SureForm Shaver with occasional hits with the Dremel. I also use broken bits of a replacement blade for the Stanley tool so I can get into teeny, tiny corners. I hold it at the tips of my fingers and basically scratch away at the foam. I had to do that a lot where the columns met its top ledge. 

The Stanley Shaver is a very easy tool to use carving foam. It's almost intuitive and leaves behind a texture that looks just like worn stone. But....that foam snow.....Ick!


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## shadowopal (Sep 6, 2007)

That's what I figured. I make a mess just with the dremel and that thing has to be good for winter scenes lol. Guess I'll have to get the wife to follow me with the vacuum. Have to give this a try as your stuff has got me inspired. I need to pick a month to give it a go. Thanks much for sharing your skills.


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## Wolfman (Apr 15, 2004)

Terra, that is UN-Freaking-REAL! Your patience is amazing.


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## SB_Haunts (Jan 5, 2010)

awesome, i really like it, im gonna give it a shot with a few changes, thank you for this tut.


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## halloweenbarb (Jun 9, 2008)

Hi Terra, I was wondering if you had any damage to your entrance over halloween and would you do anything different when you make your new entrance. was it heavy enough to stand alone or between two areas or would you recommend it leaning against a sturdy wall? thanks


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## Terra (Sep 23, 2007)

halloweenbarb said:


> Hi Terra, I was wondering if you had any damage to your entrance over halloween and would you do anything different when you make your new entrance. was it heavy enough to stand alone or between two areas or would you recommend it leaning against a sturdy wall? thanks


 
Great questions! No, I didn't have any damage from Halloween. _*Yippee!*_

_Do anything different:_ I would have gone ahead and glued those foam support pieces in the back before doing all the carving and coating it in the Drylok. I kept having to brace the back of it with extra foam and I ended up gluing them on anyway. 

_Heavy enough to stand alone:_ Sort-of. You would have to build a support for it at the bottom. Another problem is that it's top-heavy so it would want to keep falling over. You'd have to also support it from the top. I guess you could build a free-standing wood frame and attach it to that.


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## halloweenbarb (Jun 9, 2008)

~~ thank you ~~


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## Junit (Sep 1, 2008)

Wow Terra! Another great prop! I love this and would keep it up year round!


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## wolfang (Aug 25, 2009)

Wow, Terra, I really really love your work... I love your videos too and the music you use in them... when I grow up, I want to be just like you... Seriously~!


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## Terra (Sep 23, 2007)

You are all so very welcome


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