# Hack a Power Strip for Installation of Fluorescent Starter Sockets



## TK421 (Mar 27, 2009)

_This is a rebuild of the PDF "Hacking a Boris Skull..." originally posted on the Heresjohnny's site._

*How to Hack a Power Strip for Installation of Fluorescent Starter Sockets:*

CAUTION: This hack involves altering an AC power strip. If you are not comfortable with working with AC circuits, please do not attempt this hack. If you choose to proceed, the responsibility is yours.

1. This hack will only work for power strips that have individual sockets. The strips that have molded-in sockets use copper frames to distribute power to the sockets, and won't work for this hack.

2. I used a Belkin 6 outlet strip that I got at Home Depot for about $10. You'll need these parts:
- 3 starter sockets, available at most hardware or lighting supply stores
- 3 FS-2 starters
- 4-40 screws and nuts

Tools:
- Small screwdrivers
- Soldering iron
- Wire stripper
- Drill

3. Open the back of the strip to expose the sockets. Using a small screwdriver press on the tabs to release the white wires. The picture shows a black wire, but you get the idea. The white wire in this pic is actually the wire from the starter socket.

_Figure 1_










4. The white wire called out in this pic is the line that goes into the first socket. Pull it out of the outlet tab but leave it connected to the surge protector board.
White wire (neutral)

_Figure 2_










5. Drill some holes in the side of the strip housing where you want the sockets to be attached. You'll need two holes to mount the socket and holes for the wires to go through. You can see the ends of the screws in the pics in Step 3 and 6.

_Figure 3_










6. Mark the drilling locations for the sockets. After you have the holes drilled, install the socket furthest from the power cord using the 4-40 screws. Pull the socket wires through the holes. Cut the white wire to the length needed to reach the socket tab from which you removed the original jumper wire. It's better to have a little more wire than you need – don't cut it too short. Strip about 3/4" of the end and tin the wire with solder. Leave the black wire as-is for now.

_Figure 4_










7. Repeat this process for the next two sockets. When all three are installed pull the three black starter socket wires along the inside of the strip as shown below. Trim and tin the white socket wires and insert them into the power outlets. Trim the *********** strip wire to about a 3" length. Strip and tin the end of the wire. Trim the black starter socket wires to a length that will reach the white wire. Again, a little extra wire is good – don't cut them too short. Strip the ends of these wires and tin with solder.

_Figure 5_










8. If you have some heat-shrink tubing, slide a piece over the white wire as shown. Solder the 3 black wires to the white wire. Slide the tubing over the wires and shrink it. If you don't have any tubing, use electrical tape to completely cover the junction. You don't want to energize the metal housing.

_Figure 6_










9. This is what you should have when you're done. Inspect the wiring to make sure that all connections are tight and that the soldered junction is insulated. Replace the cover on the strip.

_Figure 7_










10. CAUTION: If the strip is powered up without a starter in a socket, that socket has exposed AC terminals. Do not power up the strip without a starter in each socket. Do not hot-swap the starters.

Plug in the FS-2 starters and power up the strip. You'll see that each pair of sockets will have a unique flicker pattern. The starters are pretty cheap – get several and try them out to see how they behave. I've read that FS-4 starters will also work, as long as they're not rated above 30 watts. The max wattage that I've used with this type of circuit is 40 watts per starter.


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## yardhauntjunkie (Feb 26, 2009)

Wow that is a much more sophisticated and professional job then what I came up with.  I just wired mine in line so that I could have them in different areas. I do need to add some fuses at some point.


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## Terra (Sep 23, 2007)

I'm a newbie with this. Is this to make lights flicker? I'm thinking it is and this is really cool. Thank you


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## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

Terra said:


> I'm a newbie with this. Is this to make lights flicker? I'm thinking it is and this is really cool. Thank you


Yep, that's what it does. Each pair of sockets has a unique flicker. Here's a short video of the effect:

Flicker strip demo video by Otaku1031 - Photobucket


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## litemareb4xmas (Mar 31, 2009)

I was wondering if it was for fluorescent lights or something, now I know, great job TK


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## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

It'll work with FS-5 starters if a higher wattage is needed, but the flicker rate is quite different. The FS-2's will handle up to about 40 watts, but after that the flicker falls off to a very slow rate. BTW, the hack is mine - many thanks to TK421 for ripping the PDF and getting this posted, ditto for the Boris hack. When Heresjohnny took down his site a few months ago, my flicker strip and Boris hacks went with it.


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## partsman (Oct 18, 2007)

Terra said:


> I'm a newbie with this. Is this to make lights flicker? I'm thinking it is and this is really cool. Thank you


 Yes it is, if you run it with a thunder sound track, it makes a reasonable thunder and lightning effect


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## Terra (Sep 23, 2007)

Ahh, okay... 

Well then, *super* cool!


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## yardhauntjunkie (Feb 26, 2009)

I think this is a great hack. I have a question. If you put the starter in line and added a fuse is it relatively safe or does the power strip bring something to the party that I am missing? Another great one Otaku!


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## yardhauntjunkie (Feb 26, 2009)

This is how I used the flicker circuit. 

YouTube - Pillar 2 0001

How long does the starter typically last when used in this manner? I am assuming it is put under quite a different load then in its intended application.


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## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

yardhauntjunkie said:


> If you put the starter in line and added a fuse is it relatively safe or does the power strip bring something to the party that I am missing?


The power strip allows you to change the starters quickly when they die. I've had a few go out when I use higher wattage lights, ~40 watts. The starter pins are difficult to solder, and you usually end up taping the heck out of the wires to keep safe. With a circuit breaker built in you don't need to worry about overloads. I like having three separate flicker effects from one location - I just plug in the lights and go. I used it a couple years ago in the graveyard - I placed the strip in the center and ran cords to the lights placed in various spots around the graves. I wish I'd gotten a video of the graveyard, it was a nice effect.

Using an inline fuse is perfectly OK, and most of the designs using single starters recommend them. I've lost only 3 starters over the past few years and that was running 40 watt lights. If you use them with <20 watts they last a while; I haven't had one go out yet.


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## yardhauntjunkie (Feb 26, 2009)

I made an assumption based on what I am using. I am using starters out of light fixtures so they already have wires attached. So that is my bad. If I put slide-on connectors at both ends I would be able to change out starters quickly so that is a good idea. In my particular scenario there is going to 2 or three lights "malfunctioning" on my fence. They are going to be pretty far from each other, so I don't think I want to have a power strip for just one light because I would end up needing 2 or three power strips. I saw a tutorial where the guy put a fuse in line with the starter. Is that safe or do I need to have the power strips at each light fixture?


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## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

If your lights are widely spaced the strip may not be your best bet, but for up to six 20 watt lights you'd need only one strip. Just don't use the same starter for lights that are close together - they'll have the same flicker rate. Kinda takes the randomness out of the effect. Try some FS-5's with your circuits, too. They have a rapid uniform flicker at low wattages, and can handle a 60 watt bulb.


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## yardhauntjunkie (Feb 26, 2009)

Cool. I am using the starters I find so I am at the mercy of the salvage gods on that one.  But, if I find a FS-5 I will try it out. I have a few different ones, but I am on a little vacation so I will have to wait until I get back to see what I currently have in there. I am using two starters right now. They currently are wired last in the line of lights and on each end so they flicker independently and don't effect the other lights. The only thing I am not sure about is the fuse aspect. Any tips on that? Oh and I am definitely going for a random flicker in my particular situation.


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## Bilbo (Mar 8, 2007)

Otaku said:


> If your lights are widely spaced the strip may not be your best bet, but for up to six 20 watt lights you'd need only one strip. Just don't use the same starter for lights that are close together - they'll have the same flicker rate. Kinda takes the randomness out of the effect. Try some FS-5's with your circuits, too. They have a rapid uniform flicker at low wattages, and can handle a 60 watt bulb.




I made up your strip hack last year and is this right??

FS-2 and low wattage bulbs = Slow flicker
FS-2 and higher wattage bulb = More rapid flicker

FS-5 and low wattage bulbs = Even faster
FS-5 and low wattage bulbs = The fastest??


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## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

Bilbo said:


> I made up your strip hack last year and is this right??
> 
> FS-2 and low wattage bulbs = Slow flicker
> FS-2 and higher wattage bulb = More rapid flicker
> ...


What I found was that the higher the wattage, the slower the flicker. With the FS-5, the low wattage bulbs are rapid and regular, when you go higher, the flicker slows and becomes more random. I have both types of starters - I'll post a video of the effect so you can see the differences.


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## The Pod (May 19, 2008)

yardhauntjunkie said:


> How long does the starter typically last when used in this manner? I am assuming it is put under quite a different load then in its intended application.


Has this been answered? I'm curious too as to how long the starters would last. If I turn them on at sunset and off at sunrise for all of October, how many starters might I actually go through?


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## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

It depends on the wattage you're running. As I mentioned, I've had 15 - 20 watt bulbs going for the past couple of seasons, probably 60 - 80 hours total. I like to set up my lighting several days before I put the props out, so I have lots of flickering lights around the house for a week or so before the big night. I haven't lost any starters yet with the low wattage bulbs, but I have burned a couple of FS-5's running 60 watt bulbs.


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

While I've hacked many individual light sockets in this manner, hadn't thought of doing the power strip. Just some plans cheaper/simpler.


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## NeekoSpoon (Jul 17, 2009)

Ok looks like I might be S.O.L. but what I'm hoping for is lots of very low wattage bulbs (like 5 watts) and preferably a slower yet quite random flicker.... is this doable with this method? or should I just dump in lots of battery tea lights which is my original idea. What I want to do is light a lot of fake jack o lanterns and I'd rather not have to use batteries but still want the flicker and preferably at least somewhat different flickerings spread out


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## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

Each of the starters on the strip will give you a different flicker effect. This short video shows two 4 watt bulbs and a red 7.5 watt running on FS-2 starters. Note that each of the bulbs has a different flicker rate. If you're using a bunch of 4-5 watt bulbs, you could easily run 4 JOLs from each pair of sockets by using dual socket plug-ins. Remember that each pair of sockets is controlled by one starter, so the flicker effect for all lights plugged into that pair will have the same flicker rate. You'd want to avoid having the same flicker in two adjacent JOLs to make the effect appear more random. I'll be using this effect for the fire under my witch's cauldron this year.

Flicker strip demo video by Otaku1031 - Photobucket


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## The Pod (May 19, 2008)

Looking at the instructions, it shows the starters being wired off the neutral side. Does it make a difference? Can the starter be wired on the hot lead or does it need to be on the neutral?


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

TK421 said:


> 1. This hack will only work for power strips that have individual sockets. The strips that have molded-in sockets use copper frames to distribute power to the sockets, and won't work for this hack.


I struck out after opening every power strip in the house (I have dozens after a warehouse cleanout at work tossed em). 

Any way to tell which ones have the individual sockets whilst staring at them in the store?


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## The Pod (May 19, 2008)

UnOrthodOx said:


> Any way to tell which ones have the individual sockets whilst staring at them in the store?


I would say look for the ones that are usually metal (not molded plastic) and there is a screw inbetween each of the 3 pairs of outlets holding the outlet to the metal case.


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## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

You'll see in the video that the strip I used has individual socket pairs, kind of like a wall outlet. I opened three others I had only to find the copper rails inside. Regarding the wiring, I got this note from a member here (Pumpkin Butcher):

Hey Otaku, I just finished your power strip hack and it works great! I did wire it on the hot side. I also used 1/8" rubber grommets where the leads from the starter sockets go through the housing to keep from any issues with nicking a wire on a sharp edge.


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## The Pod (May 19, 2008)

Thanks Otaku. That's good to know. Now what would be interesting is to try wiring the same starter and comparing the flicker to see if there is any difference wiring it to the hot vs the neutral. I may have to run to HomeDepot tonight and pick up a few to play with.


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## OpenTrackRacer (Sep 12, 2008)

While not a power strip, I made something the other day that's probably worth sharing. I bought a single gang blue plastic junction box ($.29), a normal double outlet ($.54), a single gang outlet cover plate ($.39) a two pack of F2 starters ($2.99) and a starter socket ($4.00 landed). All that, along with a computer power cord (with the IEC end hacked off), some wire nuts and about five minutes of my time netted me a self-contained and easy to use double outlet flicker box. I didn't even bother mounting the starter socket... just put in the box with the wires. I did remove the mounting nails from the junction box and snapped off the ears.

You can do the same thing with a double gang blue junction box ($1.49) along with two outlets and two starters to make a box with two independent flicker circuits.

It's quick, easy and best of all, cheap!


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## OpenTrackRacer (Sep 12, 2008)

I forgot to mention yesterday that I tried the starter on both the hot and neutral lines and it made no difference in the flickering.


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## rebelxwing (Oct 7, 2008)

Otaku, I am also having no luck in finding appropriate power strips. I just got home after returning a Belkin 6 outlet metal body p/s that I bought last night from HD. It had the screws between each pair of outlets and yet once inside I found that it was wired up with 2 copper rails running the length of the fixture! I went to Lowe's and OSH and found similar units there (or the plastic moulded ones). I have everything else to do this build and can't wait to put it together! Any ideas where I can find a similar p/s?


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## Mr.PumpkinGrin (Mar 22, 2009)

So, I myself also went out looking for all these parts. The power strip I failed at as well and it's almost like no one around here, commercially, carries the Fluorescent Starter Socket. Before I go out again, does this little box, when fully assembled, work for a Fluorescent light fixture plugged into it? Or should I just loosen the starter already in the Fixture? Thanks guys!


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## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

I'll try to get the model number of the Belkin strip that I used. The sockets themselves are usually found at lamp stores. For rebelxwing, look for them at Orchard Supply Hardware (OSH) - I've gotten them there before.

Here's a link to a place that sells them:

Socket for Fluorescent Starter

I Googled "fluorescent lamp starter socket" - you may be able to find a closer source than Ill.

The strip will only cause incandescent lights to flicker. If you plug in fluorescents it'll just light them normally.


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## Mr.PumpkinGrin (Mar 22, 2009)

Bummer, really? Ok, if I want to make a fluorescent bulb flicker, how would I go about doing so?


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## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

Good question - that's been asked before. I really have no idea; the only time I've had flickering fluorescent tubes in my house has been when the ballast is failing. Very cold temps can cause flickering, but that would be hard to duplicate in a haunt.


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## drsprite (Aug 29, 2008)

I found the "perfect" power strip at work today, and plan on hacking it tonight. I have a question, and it's been answered in this thread with both a "yes" and a "no". 

I plan on using this hack for a series of lights on a dimmer. I'm not home to verify, but I believe I used the same lights as in this instrucables how-to - which is 40w each. I usually have the dimmer at about half power to give that eerie vibe. So we're talking roughly 80 watts. If I were to dim them even more to about 1/4 power, then we're talking 40w. All this is on 1 physical plug, so it would be on 1 ballast.

An FS-5 should be able to handle that load (40-60w), right?

Here's a link of the lamp I built - in case someone else is interested in building their own too!

Mad Scientists Light


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## OpenTrackRacer (Sep 12, 2008)

I tried to run a dimmer with my flicker box (using a FS-2) and it didn't work. It might be happier with an FS-5 but it's something to keep in mind. I'll be very interested to hear how it goes.


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## drsprite (Aug 29, 2008)

I just stopped into Home Depot, and I saw they had some FS-25's.. Are those worth checking out?


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## Mr.PumpkinGrin (Mar 22, 2009)

Woohoo!!! So my search has pulled through!! Found 12 of those little socket buggers!!! I'm going to do what OpenTrackRacer did with the single bow, two outlet, setup. Any pictures possibly if you did it?We'll see how it goes!


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## Mr.PumpkinGrin (Mar 22, 2009)

it survives!! I grabbed all the components, the blue electrical box, dual socket, fluorescent starter, and a power chord (green, white and black chords exposed) attached everything together and sure enough, of course, the box is set to hook up any light to it and flicker! Rock on! So simple and small and it works, 5 min! Thanks guys!!


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## jamesravenwood (Sep 23, 2009)

I realize I am dredging this up a bit...but wondering if the inline hack (not using the strip) will work with a string of lights? Has anyone tried this?

Thanks
james


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## azpaul (Sep 24, 2009)

yardhauntjunkie said:


> This is how I used the flicker circuit.
> 
> YouTube - Pillar 2 0001
> 
> How long does the starter typically last when used in this manner? I am assuming it is put under quite a different load then in its intended application.


What size light bulbs did you use on your pillars?


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## jamesravenwood (Sep 23, 2009)

I personally used a C7 bulb and an FS-2 starter...works GREAT.


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## LordCalvert (Sep 14, 2008)

Totally forgot to check what type of starters I grabbed at the store, and these are FS-4. Just read the whole thread and didn't see anything about these little sneaky ones. Any one used them? Did I miss a post? says 30 watt/36" or 40 watt/48". Still going to try them on C7 bulkbs, but throwing it out there in case anyone has any experience.


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## jamesravenwood (Sep 23, 2009)

I have used FS-2 and FS-5 with candelabra size C7 bulbs / sockets as recent as a couple days ago. Get the Sylvania brand if you can find them. The FS5 is to flickery, go with the Fs-2, it gives more of a natural flicker like what you would get from a candle IMO. I installed them with an inline fuse, and have run them for a couple hours at a time with no issues and Im sure they would go even longer without a problem.

Good luck!


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## Hamm (Aug 3, 2008)

This is definitely on my list for this year. Thanks for all of the info.


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## Mortarlover123 (Oct 21, 2009)

anyone have a video of this running with higher voltage, possibly 60w-80w? like a creepy hallway effect in an insane asylum or creepy hospital... yes flickering florescent bulbs would be amazing for this but how would you go about it?


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## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

I don't have a video but I have tested this with a 60W bulb and a FS-5 starter. The FS-2 never worked with a bulb that big. The flicker rate was fairly slow and had a nice stutter, kinda like the wiring was bad. I can try to get a video in the next day or two.


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## Lynn (Aug 23, 2005)

I want to do this with a chandelier..... a question I have.. Anyone done this to a chandelier and did the effect work out ok?
I'm trying to decide whether to put small bulbs in it and run the whole thing to one fs-5 circuit, or if it would be a better effect to open the light fixture up and seperate the bulbs into 3 seperate fs-5 circuits? 
Thinking in reality, if they flicker at the same rate.... it would look more like 'bad' wiring.
But with them seperate.... they would look more like candles.
Any opinions? 
I'm putting this at the beginning of our haunt. Above a haunted organ witha skeleton sitting at it. With our haunt this year.... either effect would fit in.


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## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

I use my flicker strip with various lanterns placed around the graveyard. Both of the effects you described - all lights flickering at the same rate and individual flicker - would look good depending on the atmosphere you want to achieve. The flicker doesn't really look much like a candle, though, it's more of a random on-off-on effect. I guess if candles really behaved that way, nobody would have used them!


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## Lynn (Aug 23, 2005)

Ha ! So true!
Guess I just can't decide whether to have them all flicher together or at different rates...


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## Mortarlover123 (Oct 21, 2009)

thanks otaku, cant wait to see the vid


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## Hauntcast (Oct 3, 2007)

Good tutorial, thanks for sharing.


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## Lynn (Aug 23, 2005)

Where are you getting your flourescent starter sockets?
The only ones I've found have the bulb holders attached.
I could buy those, but I wasnt really clear how it was wires since there is only one wire coming off the starter socket. The metal strip holding the sockets together, I presume is where I would attach a wire to.?????


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## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

Lynn,
Here's a source somewhat local to you:
http://www.happcontrols.com/lighting/91003800.htm
I got mine at Home Depot, but I think they're not stocked in all of the stores. I found them in the lighting/lamp components area.


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## Lynn (Aug 23, 2005)

Thanks Otaku. They seem to have a $25 minimum order.....
I need to get to Home Depot. Checked Menards here.....nodda. 
Home Depot is a ways away, but I may be near one soon !


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## MarkOf13 (Sep 25, 2009)

Looking through the thread it has been said that this hack is for incandescent bulbs and that it won't work for fluorescents. But, what is the effect when used with CFLs?


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## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

MarkOf13 said:


> Looking through the thread it has been said that this hack is for incandescent bulbs and that it won't work for fluorescents. But, what is the effect when used with CFLs?


Good question! Let's find out. I'll pull out my strip and see what happens. More to come...


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## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

Wow. I dropped in a 60W CFL with a FS-2 starter. It took about 20 secs for the flicker to start, and it was pretty slow (long on time, long off time, but still sorta random). I swapped in a FS-5 starter and the flicker effect got faster. I expected this as the FS-5's can handle higher wattage bulbs.

You know what this means, don't you? With a UV CFL bulb, you can have a flickering black light. I'm pretty sure you can't do that with a typical UV fluorescent tube, at least not easily. Since those UV CFL's are usually 13W, you would probably use a FS-2 starter for the best effect.

Markof13, that was a great suggestion!


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## MarkOf13 (Sep 25, 2009)

That's great! I wanted to add flickering lights on my entry gates but when looking at the videos, it was too fast for the appearance I was after. So this looks like the way I'll go. Now to find a power strip. 

By the way, the flickering UV sounds interesting. I wonder what it would look like with a FCG? Having a couple flickering (one on the left and one on of the right with different rates) instead of the single "standard" one may have a weird affect with the motion...


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## z0mb13 (Jul 4, 2010)

*ok in reply to the people wanting info on fluorescent lights themselfes*

I know that this wont work for actual fluorescent lights but I have seen the effect done with those cover tubes that you can get for them with a couple of c7s at either end to cause a flicker type of experience I do have the whole setup and am planning on creating a tut for it. Has anyone else seen this effect done? And is there a tut on here for it?


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## Ickysan (Sep 29, 2015)

Hey! Thanks for the hack info, but can you provide the _model number_ of the power strip you were mentioning? I've combed every electronic/hardware store and can't find the kind you've described (with the separately-wired outlets).

Thanks! Looking forward to making a few of these! 

- Ickysan


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## Ickysan (Sep 29, 2015)

Which power strip?!? Which power strip?!? :O


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## Joe_31st (Oct 12, 2011)

Ickysan said:


> Which power strip?!? Which power strip?!? :O


I've done this mod and it really works. You'll probably have to find the older power strips that are metal cased. I don't know if it's easy to do with the newer power strips. It's also possible to build your own power strip too using electrical boxes and stuff. But that's when you have to get pretty handy and creative. Just be careful. You're working with electricity, it can kill you or start a fire!! You have to really know what you're doing.


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