# Hot-Wire Foam Pro Tools For Cheap!



## Garage-of-Evil (Feb 24, 2008)

At the last GoE Drink & Think I shared an idea for a creating a low cost variable power supply we can use to create hot-wire foam tools. I mean, we all worship at the alter of pink and blue foam and hot-wire is great, but the pro tools are ridiculously over priced. GoE member Pete and I kicked the idea back and forth, and a few days later he shot me an email saying not only had he figured it out on the cheap, he built one!

I really shouldn't have been surprised. Pete is the defacto mad scientist at GoE Labs, and this wasn't the 1st time he took and idea and ran with it to great success. Pete's design is perfect in its simplicity, it works great, and it costs about $20 bucks!

Soon after he built his, he started developing a how-to which I tested by building one, and then another for a friend. Tests were a 110% "this rocks!" success. So much so that I decided to build a fancy new foam tool around it. I really hope the community digs this, because compared to the cost of the pro rigs, this is incredible and it works just awesome.

Pete's $20 variable hot-wire power supply:
GoE Labs: How-To!,Hot-Wire Foam Cutter, Core, variable power, Power Supply, for $20 - Garage of Evil!!

My how to for building a pro-rig for cheap:
The Mach 11 Foam-Erator Extreme (Turbo) How-To - Garage of Evil!!
__________________
http://www.garageofevil.com/banners/banner.jpg


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## milemarker (Jan 19, 2009)

Oops .... somebody goofed 



> Our apologies – this page was not found


correct link

GoE Labs: How-To!,Hot-Wire Foam Cutter, Core, variable power, Power Supply, for $20 - Garage of Evil!!

Ok , after viewing this and checking out the parts needed , can you tell me how you come up with aprox $20 . 00 to build ? . Shoot , the tranformer that is specified is $15.00 by itself .
Thanks for the headsup anyway ... but , an old train transformer ( when found ) works REALLY good also . ( I got mine from a yard sale for a buck -  )


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## Garage-of-Evil (Feb 24, 2008)

Links are all fixed, thanks for that catch.

And the trans is about 13- 15 depending on how you source it. The other part is a single pole dimmer, about 5 bucks. Everything else is ancillary, and purely your choice. Take the two I built, I used some spare boxes I had around and sacrificed a power cord I had. Be creative, you're a haunter for (insert your deity) sake!


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## TK421 (Mar 27, 2009)

That's incredible! Thanks for sharing!


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## [email protected] (Oct 9, 2008)

I want to build one the 15.00 tranformer is doable but when i went to the website of a place that sells them it said use for flourasne lights.so I was wondering would a tranformer from a flouransce work?I have a few around or is there other things that would work?like the train transformer don't have but could look for one.


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## milemarker (Jan 19, 2009)

the OLD style train transformers work ... NOT the new styles . The old style does NOT have the electronics in them to pop the connection to off due to a short ( remember when you was a little kid and had a train set , and used to tell your little brother ... "go ahead , you can touch it " LOL 
Anyway , the new style again , will NOT work . One of th old rotary styles will do fine . There is nothing in them to prevent the short that is needed to do a foam hotwire .


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## Garage-of-Evil (Feb 24, 2008)

As stated above old style transformers will work. What makes this little transformer so unique for it's price is that (1) - it's dimmable! (2) it puts out a near perfect current for the application (3) it's thermal protected (4) it's freakin' cheap.


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## milemarker (Jan 19, 2009)

What I think you mean , is that , that , particular transformer has little , or NO hum when dimming .
All toroidal transformers are dimmable to a degree , ( I believe its within 15 per cent before shut off ) although , NOT all electronic ones are. BUT , the toroidal transfomers WILL hum also and possibly flicker ( for a light that is ).
Those , that you are suggesting , are electronic dimmers . 
Also ... I have looked and looked , and can not find a dimmer for $5.00 ( or even close to it )
Can I ask , where are you finding dimmers for that cheap ?


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## partsman (Oct 18, 2007)

I found one at home depot for $5.00, maybe you're not looking hard enough.


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## Garage-of-Evil (Feb 24, 2008)

Partsman, I hate to break this to you, but you're wrong. They're 4.95, I just checked myself.


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## [email protected] (Oct 9, 2008)

The way I see it is even if the dimmr is 10.00 and it costs 30 to make at least is not the 150.00 starting price for a pro one.


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## partsman (Oct 18, 2007)

Garage-of-Evil said:


> Partsman, I hate to break this to you, but you're wrong. They're 4.95, I just checked myself.


You got a better price than I did!! Cool, I'm going back to see if I can get another for the scoll table model.


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## milemarker (Jan 19, 2009)

Just wanted to make sure that I am not being misunderstood here . I am not trying to give anyone a rough time , its just that for example - there is a $20.00 prop thingy that means , just that ... $20.00 , not 30 or 40 , or ...
So , when you said $20 thats what I was trying to figure out ... how this would be $20.00 . 
Not saying that its not cheaper than the commercially sold ones . 
It is a good deal and folks should realize that I am not knocking you , or anything , just wanted to try and clarify the $20.00 part , and how you came up with that figure .


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## Garage-of-Evil (Feb 24, 2008)

I'll play along, mainly because I get a kick out of people that obsess over minutia. 

Here's how mine priced out:
Leftover project box: $0
Pony Trans. $13.50
SP Dimmer $4.95
Sacrificial Power cord $0.

So mine ran me $18.45.

If I needed a box for it I could get the same one Pete used for less than $2 at Home Depot. Say that raises it up to $20.45

Maybe I should include the electrical tape too, I suppose I could figure that out. I used a couple wire nuts I found at the bottom of my toolbox, so kick in another .05 while we're at it.


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## milemarker (Jan 19, 2009)

Ok ... now that you all have been a little smart a$$ sounding . Lets see the $5.00 dimmers that are supposedly at Home Depot . For your benefit , here is a link to HOME DEPOT's website with the serach for DIMMER SWITCH :

( kinda notice the prices too , if you will . Sorry , but sure as heck do NOT see any for around $5.00 ! !  )

Search Results for dimmer switch


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## PlainfieldDan (Aug 12, 2008)

Who cares....
If the dimmer is $5.00 or $15.00, the thing that really matters is that once again the folks from the GOE have provided a GREAT Service for those of us not as inventive as they are. These folks are freaking awesome. Why snipe over the small stuff, its time that could be spent proping or drinking. Wait a minute what am I doing..... sorry need to go I here a cold one calling.


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## Garage-of-Evil (Feb 24, 2008)

I actually snapped that last night while sourcing some home depot goodies and then decided it would be snarky to post it.

Oh, and Dan - thank you very much for the kind words man, and again much credit to Pete for coming up with this solution.


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## dixie (Jan 30, 2009)

No, smart asses would say something like, 

"_Kindly notice_ the $4.95 Home Depot price tag in the picture below"

or 

"_For your benefit_, here is the price". 

Sheesh. Makes me want the last 5 minutes of my life back.


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## partsman (Oct 18, 2007)

You said it Dixie, I've only seen one snippy smart a$$ in this thread.


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## [email protected] (Oct 9, 2008)

Lutron Rotary Dimmers
Lutron Glyder Dimmers
Plus most brick and mortar stores website post a higher price on there website to keep the competition from going on line and finding out how much they charge then under cutting them.and there are more in the store than there is online.so there very well could be 5.00dimmers just not shown online.


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## DarkLore (Jan 31, 2009)

I was at Home Depot this evening. Darn if they don't have a dimmer under $5. 

But I can't help not being a smart a$$.....for your benefit.....the cheapest switch socket was $7.33. Where's that darn smiley face icon?


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## milemarker (Jan 19, 2009)

A Hot-Wire Foam Cutter From the Home Depot

Hot Wire Foam Cutter

Hot Wire Foam Cutter (woost1435) Woodland Scenics Model Train Scenery Foam

Hot wire foam cutter


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## Terra (Sep 23, 2007)

Ok, I feel a need to cut in here. First off, I was thrilled to see Garage of Evil posting here again because I love them and their sense of humor is what makes prop building so fun.

What ticks me off is instead of a warm welcome back they get picked on about MINOR stuff! The bigger point is they are back and please, please stay   

You guys ROCK!


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## partsman (Oct 18, 2007)

Sorry, but I have to agree with Terra on this, GOE is awsome, and you guys rock. So welcome back


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## Garage-of-Evil (Feb 24, 2008)

No worries Terra. Larry and I have spoken quite a bit over the past few months and we've found a lot of a common ground and mutual respect. 

In terms of all this goofiness? I don't sweat the little stuff. That person doesn't seem to have a grasp what we're trying to accomplish here, which would be the ability to replicate tools like this:
Hotwire Foam Factory :: Pro...

and safe, variable power units like this:
Hotwire Foam Factory ::...

I really don't let negativity and hair splitting like that bug me, because it almost always comes from people that never take the time to contribute to our community. It's easy to armchair QB, but a real pain in the a$$ to take the time and try to share with folks.

Almost to a person everyone on this thread understands that, and that's more than enough for us schmucks to keep on keepin' on.


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## Garage-of-Evil (Feb 24, 2008)

No worries Terra. Larry and I have spoken quite a bit over the past few months and we've found a lot of a common ground and mutual respect. 

In terms of all this goofiness? I don't sweat the little stuff. That person doesn't seem to have a grasp what we're trying to accomplish here, which would be the ability to replicate tools like this:
Hotwire Foam Factory :: Pro...

and safe, variable power units like this:
Hotwire Foam Factory ::...

I really don't let negativity and hair splitting like that bug me, because it almost always comes from people that never take the time to contribute to our community. It's easy to armchair QB, but a real pain in the a$$ to take the time and try to share with folks.

Almost to a person everyone on this thread understands that, and that's more than enough for us schmucks to keep on keepin' on.


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## Terra (Sep 23, 2007)

Excellent. Made my day


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## partsman (Oct 18, 2007)

Now, can we get back on topic? I want to be able to make some convex cuts, is the wire stiff enough to hold a form or shape while being uplled though the foam when hot?


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## yardhauntjunkie (Feb 26, 2009)

partsman said:


> Now, can we get back on topic? I want to be able to make some convex cuts, is the wire stiff enough to hold a form or shape while being uplled though the foam when hot?


That is a great question. I have wondered that about making molding pieces out of foam. I get 3 inch think foam for free and I was thinking it would be cool if I could make profile cuts. Has any one heard of this before?


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## yardhauntjunkie (Feb 26, 2009)

I will get off topic for just a sec. I have noticed on this forum that far too many people end up having to try and apologize for making what I think are completely valid questions or comments. This is in fact a "forum" where thoughts and ideas are meant to be shared. If someone makes a statement and another person doesn't quite get it, what is the harm of clarifying for that person. The guy saw something that didn't add up in his head and wondered what he was missing. Maybe he didn't express that as eloquently as he could have, but he felt like it needed clarifying. I am sure he wasn't the only one that didn't think that it added up the way it was stated. I love this forum and don't want to see it destroyed over senseless bickering so all I could ever ask is for those who use the forum to understand that there are people of all experience levels(and budgets for that matter) on here and that if they don't get something or necessarily agree with you that they should still be treated like everyone else.  Cant we all just get along?


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## Garage-of-Evil (Feb 24, 2008)

Partsman, funny you should mention that, because I thinking some "router bit" type forms would be really handy. The tool I built to use the p/s is a scroll type deal, so no, it won't accomplish what you want. However, there's enough oomph in the p/s to heat a length of shorter, thicker gauge wire. I need scour HD and see if I can get some suitable wire thick enough to hold shape, and try it out. I'll keep ya posted.


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## Terra (Sep 23, 2007)

yardhauntjunkie said:


> I will get off topic for just a sec. I have noticed on this forum that far too many people end up having to try and apologize for making what I think are completely valid questions or comments. This is in fact a "forum" where thoughts and ideas are meant to be shared. If someone makes a statement and another person doesn't quite get it, what is the harm of clarifying for that person. The guy saw something that didn't add up in his head and wondered what he was missing. Maybe he didn't express that as eloquently as he could have, but he felt like it needed clarifying. I am sure he wasn't the only one that didn't think that it added up the way it was stated. I love this forum and don't want to see it destroyed over senseless bickering so all I could ever ask is for those who use the forum to understand that there are people of all experience levels(and budgets for that matter) on here and that if they don't get something or necessarily agree with you that they should still be treated like everyone else.  Cant we all just get along?


Good question. This is how I view this. I was part of a another forum that turned nasty and then I had to watch it die a slow death. That's one problem. When there is rude behavior, it begets more rude behavior and rinse and repeat.

When I found this forum I realized that it was special. The members here go out of their way to support and encourage others. Plus, it is what I call; _'My happy place in the internet'_. But, when someone asks a question that sounds more like an accusation or wanting to get in a pissing match, it's like you hear a huge *Screeech!* and then this place is in danger of going down the crappy forum hole. 

Asking questions is great but the written word can be misinterpreted so many ways. So, I just try to be very, very careful in making sure that the question I'm asking or the suggestion I'm making can't be taken wrong.

I hope my point of view is helpful to you. I really love this place and I understand that when we put some serious sweat _(and some blood)_ in our projects we do love the support and kudos we get here. It makes it worth it because this place is full of amazing and wonderful people. Their opinions mean the world to me.


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## Terra (Sep 23, 2007)

Garage-of-Evil said:


> Partsman, funny you should mention that, because I thinking some "router bit" type forms would be really handy. The tool I built to use the p/s is a scroll type deal, so no, it won't accomplish what you want. However, there's enough oomph in the p/s to heat a length of shorter, thicker gauge wire. I need scour HD and see if I can get some suitable wire thick enough to hold shape, and try it out. I'll keep ya posted.


You know, I've been thinking a lot of this project _(it's really cool)._ I was trying to explain to hubby what this is and I told him it's like how my curling iron gets hot. So, what if you use the same mechanism to heat a router bit or something like that? Like what happens to heat a curling iron?


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## yardhauntjunkie (Feb 26, 2009)

Yeah I am wondering about the warmer element in dishwashers. Similar to the hair curler idea. When you take apart a dishwasher the heating element has a connector at both ends and a thin wire inside the tube you see at the bottom of your dishwasher. If you carefully took this wire out of the tube I am wondering if you could rig a similar setup to what you have. I don't know about making it variable though.


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## yardhauntjunkie (Feb 26, 2009)

Terra said:


> Good question. This is how I view this. I was part of a another forum that turned nasty and then I had to watch it die a slow death. That's one problem. When there is rude behavior, it begets more rude behavior and rinse and repeat.
> 
> When I found this forum I realized that it was special. The members here go out of their way to support and encourage others. Plus, it is what I call; _'My happy place in the internet'_. But, when someone asks a question that sounds more like an accusation or wanting to get in a pissing match, it's like you hear a huge *Screeech!* and then this place is in danger of going down the crappy forum hole.
> 
> ...


I totally agree with you up to a point. However there appears to be a hierarchy on this forum and those at the top of the posting food chain seem to have free reign of what they say and what can be said about what they say. I don't want what you were talking about to happen to this forum, but I see a trend that is kind of unnerving. In the past few weeks I seen at least three instances where people felt like they had to "apologize" for simply questioning something or making what most people feel was an appropriate comment. I hate that now I have to go back and make sure what I am asking or what I comment on won't offend someone. And I don't even want to get started on the pressure to word something correctly so that someone who is selling something won't turn against you. It is great to get help from the people who sell the products that they make, but you shouldn't feel like you can't talk about something that would be an alternative to what they are peddling.

All I want to do is go to a thread and learn how to make a foam cutter.


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## Garage-of-Evil (Feb 24, 2008)

All valid ideas, but keep in mind it can take a dangerous amount of current to heat up a thick metal object. 

The idea is to run a reasonably safe amount of current through the element. The wire is essentially acting as a resistor, we're carrying current via a safely appropriate gauge, then to a thinner gauge (thickness) that can't handle the current load, and begins to bleed off current as heat. This is why your electrician is using a different gauge wire for different current loads when he wires your house. He sure as heck isn't running standard 110v 15amp rated wire for the new 220v electric stove your putting in. He's going for the thick stuff to prevent a fire in your walls.

Unless your never going to change gauge or length of element, we have to make it variable. This is why a .18 gauge guitar string with an overall length of 12" can be safely heated, but a thicker gauge, one that hold a shape will be much shorter and require more current. 

Does that make sense? Assume the disclaimer that I have a few high lifes in me, as I spent all night marking out some foam for cutting tomorrow


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## yardhauntjunkie (Feb 26, 2009)

Garage-of-Evil said:


> All valid ideas, but keep in mind it can take a dangerous amount of current to heat up a thick metal object.
> 
> The idea is to run a reasonably safe amount of current through the element. The wire is essentially acting as a resistor, we're carrying current via a safely appropriate gauge, then to a thinner gauge (thickness) that can't handle the current load, and begins to bleed off current as heat. This is why your electrician is using a different gauge wire for different current loads when he wires your house. He sure as heck isn't running standard 110v 15amp rated wire for the new 220v electric stove your putting in. He's going for the thick stuff to prevent a fire in your walls.
> 
> ...


You should call up Miller, because that sounds like an awesome commercial.


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## [email protected] (Oct 9, 2008)

I agree with terra and I don't think it's about asking a question but how some people state the question as a put down.how did you come up with that number! or how did you come up with that number?one sounds like your saying your full of sh** the other sounds like you would like to know how.and then when they get an answer they want to agrue over it.unless you where there then you have to firgure it true to some point.5.00 dimmer or won one doesn't matter it's made to show a price point.so you can go that's doable or when I hit the lotto.
OK back on subject.To do a angle you could build some thing like the Hotwire Foam Factory :: Pro...
looking at it it looks like you can turn a wing nut and tilt it.I also had a bad blow dryer so I took it apart for the cord but was thinking the coil wires in the dryer would heat up like a hotwire cutter in fact now that I think about it it could become variable using the guts.


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## partsman (Oct 18, 2007)

yardhauntjunkie said:


> I will get off topic for just a sec. I have noticed on this forum that far too many people end up having to try and apologize for making what I think are completely valid questions or comments. This is in fact a "forum" where thoughts and ideas are meant to be shared. If someone makes a statement and another person doesn't quite get it, what is the harm of clarifying for that person. The guy saw something that didn't add up in his head and wondered what he was missing. Maybe he didn't express that as eloquently as he could have, but he felt like it needed clarifying. I am sure he wasn't the only one that didn't think that it added up the way it was stated. I love this forum and don't want to see it destroyed over senseless bickering so all I could ever ask is for those who use the forum to understand that there are people of all experience levels(and budgets for that matter) on here and that if they don't get something or necessarily agree with you that they should still be treated like everyone else.  Cant we all just get along?


I don't disagree with you, I was just saying that we've wandered a bit from the subject at hand and were getting into a pi$$ing match with the guy over minutia, and I still had questions that's all. The question was asked and answered. That's all. I didn't want there to be anyone getting mad at anyone else over tiny details, I went through that over at the other forum already, and didn't like it at all.


Also back on topic, how would copper wire, the standard #10 romex hold up, after all we're talking about a variable power source here, if I'm using a heavier wire, can I turn up the power to compensate to create a shaped piece?


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## Garage-of-Evil (Feb 24, 2008)

Thats the yellow romex right? If so I have some. Just cant remember if its 12 or 10. Regardless, I'll try it tonight and report back.


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## [email protected] (Oct 9, 2008)

Question:would the copper get hot?If so why do you always here nickel whatever it is wire?Becuase if the copper works it seems easier to get the copper wire than the nickel.Just trying to learn.and if the copper works couldn't you use like a bent copper plate/band you could bend it and it would be stiffer so it would hold it's shape better.


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## milemarker (Jan 19, 2009)

yes , copper gets hot ... it has less reistance than nickel does , which also requires less current for use as a foam melting wire setup . Nickel stays firm and retains its shape when heated whereas copper does not . ( with the heat range we are talking about here ) Copper will oxidize , whereas nickel will not .
Nickel is also easier to clean the melted styrofoam from than copper .


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## Garage-of-Evil (Feb 24, 2008)

You know what's fun? When you stop thinking about how to make stuff and just build sh*t!

Yep, it has a long way to go and much detail must be added, but I wouldn't have started this stone unless I had the goods we're debating


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## foggyfathoms (Apr 2, 2009)

the stone is going to be awesome! no debating that.


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## Garage-of-Evil (Feb 24, 2008)

It's fun when you post your work, and I was all excited to see a reply. Then I realized (with horror) that once again I forgot to hide the diaper box in the background. I try and try, and that damn diaper box negates all my evil every FREAKING TIME! I am so not evil right now. I should just post care bears.


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## Terra (Sep 23, 2007)

Awe, you are still evil to me, now with a soft fuzzy side.

That stone is looking wicked!


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## PlainfieldDan (Aug 12, 2008)

A soft fluffy and ABSORBANT side......
Despite your fall from evilness, that is still one incredible cross, you guys rock....


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## [email protected] (Oct 9, 2008)

So is this one piece?did you use a router for the inside craving how'd you get it so smooth? also the circle Hot knife?Did you unhook the wire and then insert it on the inside of the circle for the cuts there.I've made one like that with out a hot knife or demel and was thinking of making another with the hot knife and demel when I get it built this week.


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## DarkLore (Jan 31, 2009)

Nice stone.

http://images2.layoutsparks.com/1/85495/hi-care-bears-teddy.jpg


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## dixie (Jan 30, 2009)

Haha, DL... love the carebear!


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## MLuther (Apr 8, 2009)

that cross is beautiful.


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## Garage-of-Evil (Feb 24, 2008)

Hey gang!
Sorry about the lack of replies, I was a busy bee these past couple days. But for today, it was near 90, clear skies during the day and as I speak it's perfectly cool with a great breeze coming through the garage. I have a beer next to me, and the Sox on the radio. LIFE IS GOOD!

But anywho, I digress. Here is a pic of the work in progress, and not much progress yet I'm afraid. I haven't even started the base piece yet, but I did add some detail before the High Life and beautiful night grabbed my attention.




So in terms of how-to there will be a "anyone can build this" article forthcoming on the site and network. It's actually really easy, and I documented more or less the cheap tricks I used to do it. If I can do it, you can do it better.


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## yardhauntjunkie (Feb 26, 2009)

I am excited because I got a dishwasher today and I am going to see if I can make my foam cutter table with the heating element. Too rainy today to tear it apart but hopefully tomorrow. I know you said if you can do it, we can do it better. I have to admit I don't have the creativity to even come close to your Celtic cross, that thing is great.


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## partsman (Oct 18, 2007)

Just picked up my power supply today at the local electronics and lighting store, so now I have everything except the guitar string, I'll probably have to wait till this weekend for that, no local music stores in town here.


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## TK421 (Mar 27, 2009)

Garage-of-Evil said:


> As stated above old style transformers will work. What makes this little transformer so unique for it's price is that (1) - it's dimmable! (2) it puts out a near perfect current for the application (3) it's thermal protected (4) it's freakin' cheap.


I can't seem to find the Pony anywhere local. I have seen it online, but was really hoping I could just go local and pick one up. Do you have any suggestions? Radio Shack, lighting store?


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## Garage-of-Evil (Feb 24, 2008)

Lighting supply store is your best bet. It's used as a dimmable trans for under counter halogen lighting (when it's not cutting foam).


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## TK421 (Mar 27, 2009)

Great! I'll check a few places tomorrow.

Thanks!


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## partsman (Oct 18, 2007)

Garage-of-Evil said:


> Lighting supply store is your best bet. It's used as a dimmable trans for under counter halogen lighting (when it's not cutting foam).


 That's what I did, it's not the Pony, but it is a 60W dimmable low voltage lighting transformer. Remarkably small!


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## Garage-of-Evil (Feb 24, 2008)

Well here is the latest bit of work on the 1st project to be birthed from this how-to. It's on to wood filler, and then (sunday i hope) building the over 3' tall base for it. This piece is about 4' tall, and it will fit into the thicker base like a mortise and tenon joint, leaving the same reveal on the bottom bit that you see on the sides. The whole thing will be about 7' tall.

I took a couple pics, first is from the perspective of someone looking at the finished piece (can't wait to uplight it!), the second is just a 3/4 view.

The trinity knot I made is a little wonky, but it's as good I'll get it so it's time to move on.


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## Garage-of-Evil (Feb 24, 2008)

Damn real life! I finally got around to working on this again, and have the base roughed, sanded and routed. I have a how-to bit going so once it's all done I should be able to put together a nice bit of instructions to augment the how-to for the foam cutter itself.

The total height is almost exactly 6'9", so it's a big boy. The top piece fits into the base in a mortise/tenon type affair, but will of course be glued in once it's time to finish up and fill in the gaps. The base width is 7", and the top width is 4". It's about 2' at it's widest. Still a lot of work yet to do, but I'm starting to dig it. I LOVE FOAM!


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## 13mummy (Aug 26, 2007)

WOW!!! GOE that is awesome, I'm so impressed with your work. I have a question, did you route out the inside part of your cross? If so was it hard to do? This is my next step in my cemetery columns, and I'm a little afraid of it. Any suggestions?

Also I'm glad to see you have a diaper box in the background. It makes me believe that even if you have kids you still have time to make awesome stuff. I have a 2 year old and a 7 week old. I'm lucky if I can get an hour in. =)


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## Raised by Wolves (Apr 16, 2009)

Very Nice!! Quality Craftsmanship!!! Can't wait to see the finished project!


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## Hauntcast (Oct 3, 2007)

I'll need to hook up with Pete one of these Saturdays and build one. This is so much easier than cutting things with a knife or hot knife.


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## Garage-of-Evil (Feb 24, 2008)

Mummy,
Yes, it's routed. And routing foam is easy as pie. It offers zero resistance so you can do even really complex stuff by hand with no worry about using guides, patterns, etc like you would normally deal with when routing wood.

I have a full size router, a laminate router, and of course a dremel. My full size router is a beast, so I use the laminate router because I can chuck a regular 1/4" size shaft into it, it's very small and easy to control, and it has a nice size (depth adjustable) plate. Here's a pic of it:









I use a 1/2" width, 1/4" shank plunge router bit like this guy:









The trick is to always leave space for the router deck to sit on so everything stays consistent depth wise. I generally go around the perimeter of the area where I have marked off the edge very slowly and carefully, then I start at the top and just go side to side down to the bottom. It's tedious, and it makes one HELL of a mess. Comes out nice though.

That being said, it's not always the way to go. When I made my cemetery columns I could have went with a router, but instead opted to cut out the recessed bit, and just glue some to back it (and one bit was a drop panel). You can see that here if you want to check it out. Here is a link for the how to:
08 Project - Drop Panel 3 Axis Skull Columns - Garage of Evil!!
Here is the column pics alone:
08 Columns - Garage of Evil!!

And here is a vid of the column in action:


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## 13mummy (Aug 26, 2007)

Great work GOE. They look really good, how did you make your cracks and aging?


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## Garage-of-Evil (Feb 24, 2008)

Just an exacto knife and beer. Well technically the beer was for me. 

Hey I saw your phtobucket, congrats on the recent addition! I've a 3 and 9 year old myself, so I know that feeling. What is that rusty looking prop (pics are small)? Is that real rust? If not you need to share how you did that. It looks like the perfect finish for some iron crosses I want to make.


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## 13mummy (Aug 26, 2007)

Thanks!! Your kids must love Halloween, I know my 2 year old does.

It is real rust looking, but unfortunitly I didn't do it. You know the move The Haunting in Conneticut. It was filmed in my city last year, and I was lucky enough to find out they were selling off the props from that movie. So of course I ran to the sale and I got that autopsy table for only $50, and some formaldyhe bottles and a corpse.


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## Garage-of-Evil (Feb 24, 2008)

But wait, you're not from CT... DAMN YOU HOLLYWOOD!

I need to get a good faux rust tutorial. Back the google i go...


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## partsman (Oct 18, 2007)

Check this guy's work out, this is all paint!!
Fancy some fake Rust, Patina or Signwriting?... - VZi, the UK's largest VW forum, community and sales


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## DarkLore (Jan 31, 2009)

Garage-of-Evil said:


> But wait, you're not from CT... DAMN YOU HOLLYWOOD!
> 
> I need to get a good faux rust tutorial. Back the google i go...


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## Garage-of-Evil (Feb 24, 2008)

nice find dark lore!


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## [email protected] (Oct 9, 2008)

got my power supply and the other parts I too need to get a guitar string.Used to be a music store on every corner now there hard to find.have to go online I guess.


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## Garage-of-Evil (Feb 24, 2008)

Not even a Guitar Center around there? If there is, grab a set of .11s. I'm using a .22 on mine right now (the D string from that set) and it works great. The .18 (G string) of course works well, and you go thinner for detail stuff. You'll find at least 3-4 of the strings in that set pretty usable.


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## DarkLore (Jan 31, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> got my power supply and the other parts I too need to get a guitar string.Used to be a music store on every corner now there hard to find.have to go online I guess.


I bought mine at Walmart. Go to the toy section. There should be a rack of replacement strings for guitars. The entire set cost me a few dollars. I would have spent that driving to guitar store.


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## [email protected] (Oct 9, 2008)

Never even thought of walmart I'll have to check.


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## SpookySteve (Aug 15, 2008)

*Adaptation to mount on a Table Saw*

I love the idea of a foam band saw. I don't have the room for another large table in my garage so I am going to adapt your "C" frame idea into a "7", being at a right angle of course, and mount it to my table saw motor trunion. That way I will only have one table (saw and foam cutter with change over) and my foam wire will tilt when I tilt my saw blade to the left. That will enable me to cut chamfers on large pieces.


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## partsman (Oct 18, 2007)

Garage-of-Evil said:


> I need to get a good faux rust tutorial. Back the google i go...


 
Here's another one that you may like:


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## Hauntcast (Oct 3, 2007)

I saw this thing in action and it is amazing. Great Job Steve-O!


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## 13mummy (Aug 26, 2007)

Thanks GOE for the helpful tips on routing and the crack technique. It worked well on my columns. I ended up doing the cracks with my dremel because it was a lot faster.


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## Garage-of-Evil (Feb 24, 2008)

hehe - cheater! I saw your update, those are really looking nice!


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## 13mummy (Aug 26, 2007)

Thanks so much! Cheating is good. =)


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## fravak (Dec 11, 2006)

Thanks GOE for the tutorial!

I couldn't find just the transformer locally, but I did find a set of three halogen lights with a 60W transformer on clearance (one light was broken) that worked out to be a lot less than buying it online with shipping. Instead of throwing the lights out, I added one of them to my setup. It makes it very easy to tell when the power is on and how far it's turned up. Everything else was made with scraps I had laying around the garage.

Because I use this table for lots of other stuff, I needed a removable setup. The main arm is C-clamped to the table and the guitar string is looped over a screw head mounted inside the hole underneath. The wiring under the table is permanent and hooks into the transformer via the white wire shown in the last picture.


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## partsman (Oct 18, 2007)

Looks good Fravak. Post some in action pics


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## Fatman (Sep 9, 2008)

I live in a pretty rural area and am having trouble finding the pony transformers as well. I have a 60w power adapter that outputs 12vdc, will this work?


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## fravak (Dec 11, 2006)

That should work. Anything that can put out between 50 and 75 watts (5-6 amps) should be ok. More power than that makes guitar strings glow a pretty shade of red before they break. (disclaimer: I'm not an electrician, so don't quote me on that...) 

I found mine in a package of plug-in under counter halogen lights. It wasn't a Pony brand. About the only thing stamped on it was "Made in China."

I've been cutting a lot of foam recently. I'll post some pics soon.


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