# Amazing fog machine-powered cannons!



## halloweenguy (Jun 20, 2005)

Skygodtj, I'm in for this project...
I had plans for 2007 to build something very close to this but ran out of time working on two haunts. Pirates was the theme for 2007 and will be again in 2008. My plan was to use VSA with either a kit74 or PWM relays, and insert it as part my existing routine.

I could build a simple stand alone system though if needed.


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## alwysrit2 (Jul 28, 2006)

Hey, that is mine! 

Thanks for the compliments, if you have any questions, let me know and I will try to go into detail on here.

-Don


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## Addict (Sep 24, 2007)

Ooooo the ideals are cranking away in my head!


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## crazybob (Apr 11, 2005)

Wow! Yeah... I have a question. Howd you do that?!?!


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## deveds2 (Nov 3, 2006)

Hey alwysrit2,

You mean you built the cannons in the videos? If so, yes please, details details details...


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## nOrTHeRn TouCh (Feb 24, 2006)

WoW those are freking cool ass!!!! Man I would love to add somthing like that too the frount of are haunt....


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## CraigInPA (Sep 11, 2007)

I can guess at how you've built most of the parts, but I'd like to know what you used as valves to hold back the fog, as well as how big a fog machine you've got there?


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## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

Hey Don, 

Yes, please *PLEASE* post the instructions!!! They are *REEEEEALLY* terrific!! Are both yours? It looks like 3"-4" PVC feeder pipe in the first one, and maybe a 2"-3" in the second, but they are both really really cool!!

TJ


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## alwysrit2 (Jul 28, 2006)

The fogger is an Antari 1200 watt. Last year I used a Walmart type 400 watt and it was ok, but I couldn't count on the fogger to be ready all of the time. Before I had access to the new fogger, I had played with adding a pneumatic valve to help push the fog out faster.
The gates to start/stop the fog can be found at http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=16960&filter=dust collection. I drilled a hole through the handle of the gate and connected one end of a pneumatic cylinder to it and the other end to a piece of scrap 3/4" plywood. I drilled a couple of holes through the sides of the gate to mount it to the plywood. ( I will take pictures as soon as I can ). 
The actual cannons are just plastic paint cans with a piece of pipe insulation around the rim. The lights are C7 candle sticks from Joanns Fabric or DollarTree.

For the controller, last year I used 6 channels from an IOGeek, this year, I used an 64 channel Olsen 595 so I had quite a bit more room, I think I ended up with 10 channels - 
1 to open each valve (4), 1 for each light (4), 1 to close all valves, 1 to control the fogger.
Let me know if I missed any questions
-Don


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## alwysrit2 (Jul 28, 2006)

The plumbing is from the dust collection set from rockler ( I don't think they sell the set anymore ). All of the plumbing had stayed the same for both years. Next year it will be repurposed to be smoke coming from a crashed UFO in the yard.
There is more footage from '06 at YouTube - Final Halloween 06, remember this is the 400 watt fogger instead of the 1200 from this year. Last year I used a 12v light in each cannon, connected to the same channel as the 'Gate Open Valve'.


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## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

ok, so the manifold(PVC pipe) is "pressurized" by the fog machine, and the duct gates open/close in sequence to let the fog out? and the lights are also triggered by the gate pulse? Really nice yard display!

TJ


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## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

And you used 4" PVC for the manifold?


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## alwysrit2 (Jul 28, 2006)

yes, the only preasure was from the fog machine being turned on/off. I did have a gate at the end of the plumbing to make sure it didn't all escape. I left it open just a bit to allow the fog to flow easily. The gates do open in sequence for each cannon 'fire'. 2006, the lights were hooked up to the same channel, this year they were a on their own. Having the bigger fogger meant the lights needed to be turned on a little quicker for them to be seen before the fog arrived at the gate. I believe it is actually a 3" system.
Thanks
-Don


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## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

Ok, 3" pvc manifold, feeding T-fittings which the gates and paint can 'cannon' barrels were fixed to, and the gates were activated by pnuematic actuators... The thumping noises are the gate opening then closing?


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## alwysrit2 (Jul 28, 2006)

Yep, and in person you get to hear the valves release air when they close


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## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

kewl, sorry for all the questions, but thats what you have to put up with when you have the coolest prop around


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## thedudedrummer (Jun 21, 2007)

Hey Don do you think you could post a schematic or pictures of your setup. 

Im also into christmas comp controlled lighting, so can you give me more of an idea of your olsen setup? Is it a very hard build for this board?

Thanks, Mike


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## alwysrit2 (Jul 28, 2006)

I will see what I can do for a few pictures. The important thing is the setup at the gates for each cannon.
As far as the Olsen 595 goes, it is simple to build (3-4 hrs) and not very expensive. www.doityourselfchristmas.com is a great resource. I built mine for about $70 each but for 110v lights, you also need relays. I just finished building 64 Solid State Relays for about $4 each. They only handle about 2 amps, but they are a very nice design. There is a slightly easier and cheaper board called the grinch, it is also 64 channels, not sure on the cost. There are a few members who already have the pcb's ready to go. If you PM me on the other board if you have any questions.


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## LV Scott T (Aug 14, 2007)

alwysrit2 said:


> The important thing is the setup at the gates for each cannon.


I may have come up with a simpler way to pass the fog to the cannons without the gate, and without using a cylinder. And, it even adds its own sound effects. AND, it could even provide the flash... all on one control branch.

Assuming you have a T at each port, drill a hole at the back of each T and attach the output of a simple Air-Cannon. An inch above that, mount a light. At the center arm of the T (leading to the fake cannon), attach a plate with a flapper gate (basically a disk with a light-weight spring hinge at the bottom). The gate is normally closed and, when opened, takes a second or so to reclose. The light stays on all the time.

When you fire the Air-Cannon, the burst of air pushes the flapper gate open, allowing a puff of fog to escape. It may even look more like a cannon firing since some of the fog will be carried by the burst instead of just rolling out the end. And, when the gate is open, the light will be visible, creating the flash.

Well, what do you thing? Will it work?


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## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

Yeah, that sounds like it would work, making the flap so it would have the clearance to open/close inside the T-fitting might be tough. I would have it hinged at the top instead of the bottom, then it's own weight would help close it. Other thing would be not to have the pressure too high as it would dissapate the fog too quickly to be seen. The light always on would work nicely tho..

TJ


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## alwysrit2 (Jul 28, 2006)

*Picture of the gates*

I think this will help save 1000 words...let me know if there are any questions


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## alwysrit2 (Jul 28, 2006)

As far as using a flap, I would say try it. I would be worried about the air from the cannon actually pushing the fog out of the way, you might get more fog from the other cannons than the one you are firing. I got lucky, I had everything I needed to build it sitting in the garage.
-Don


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## thedudedrummer (Jun 21, 2007)

That was the system I was talking about building for you for your whole house ship scott. Trick is to make a fog resivour for each cannon (basically a box or container to fill with fog) and then use the air cannon, or just any air source (my air cannon ended up sounding like a goose honk) to blow out the fog. This could all be rigged up with a kit74 board to run up to 8 cannons, or you can make a relay system as well.

As for the origional design shown here, I believe you could use a servo to do the job as well, in place of the pneumatics. This way you could use an existing parallax board or ssc-32 in your case Teege, to open and close the valves. If you want to get really tricky, you could make it so the servo control arm hits a microswitch when the valve is open, and link this to the light (any momentary switch will work). This would eliminate the need for relays completely, even running the the fog machine off of a servo as well (just something strong enough to push down the button, to activate the machine, or a pico switch... I think thats what theyre called, could be used as well). 

You can tell I like using servos lol... but these are just a few tweaks to make it a bit easier to make this if you dont have pneumatics available. Really like the idea of the cylinders to move the valves though, will last alot longer than servos and its just plain cool! 

If I end up making a pirate ship again next year I will definitely mess with this design with my 700w fogger. I need some good foggers for next year, not that the 20-30 dollar ones are bad... but yea... lol... plus Im not building a hearse again this year so I can affoard a few really good ones (my hearse took 800 of my budget, but hey Im using it for christmas too... looks good lol)

So yea... My mind jus went wild there... excuse me... but hey I like to tinker


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## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

alwysrit2 said:


> I think this will help save 1000 words...let me know if there are any questions


Did I miss something? There isnt any pix attached.. 'least, I cant see anything here..

TJ


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## evileyes (Oct 28, 2007)

What if you built one that a servo pushed down the fog button opened the valve and turned on the light all with one servo would this work or not ( I'm kinda new at using servos)


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## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

The only trouble with servos I can see is having enuff torque to actually move a slider valve enuff distance to allow enuff fog out.. 

One thing I started thinking was that 400w foggers are usually cheap enuff(usually $25 at Spirit stores) to buy a couple and have a dedicated fogger per cannon (would solve the pnuematic/servo triggering problem), or buy another one and for four cannons, plumb a fogger to feed two cannons with a single T-fitting..

teege


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## alwysrit2 (Jul 28, 2006)

*2nd try for picture*

Hope this helps


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## thedudedrummer (Jun 21, 2007)

Yea A servo could definitely pull that thing open... I picked up a new set of twins at the NAMM show in Anaheim right next to my work (2000w units.... beautiful... take a look http://s185.photobucket.com/albums/x158/thedudedrummer/My%20New%20Babies/?action=view&current=P1000327.jpg)
But alas I only bought two to use as ground foggers with my chillers for each side of my haunt.... If I coulda got a few more It woulda been amazing for this!


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## evileyes (Oct 28, 2007)

NNNIIICCCEEE!!!!! awesome foggers i need some like that mine are kids toys (now)


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## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

Wow mike, 2000w??!! It's gonna look like London!

Alwys.. got the pix, that a double-action pnuem or is one of the nipple a press. relief?

teege


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## alwysrit2 (Jul 28, 2006)

They are double action, a buddy sold me a bunch cheap...short throw, just enough for this project.
-Don


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## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

Thanks Alwys.. I'll have to think of what to do for the valve actuators.. I havent got any pnuematic stuff at all, to go with the pnuem actuators I'd have to pick up a compressor, or at least a large tank. I'm thinking another fogger is cheaper than 3 or 4 pnuem actuators, compressor, plumbing. I got my fogger for $25 at the Spirit store. I may get another fogger, fit a Y splitter on each and use the two foggers to feed four cannons, firing one pair a few seconds after the first pair. Good thing October is a lil ways off..

Thanks


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## alwysrit2 (Jul 28, 2006)

Jack, how would you be firing the foggers? Servos against the buttons or something else? I have used a solid state relay to do it before.
-Don


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## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

I already have the remote timer for the fogger, I will prob mod it for a SSR trigger too. If I pick up the second fogger, I'll make a Y-splitter for the remote timer to run both foggers. As I was just walking around the ship last year during TOT visits as Capt Jack, I may just manually trigger the foggers...

TJ


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## CraigInPA (Sep 11, 2007)

How do you plan on overcoming the "warm up time" factor of the foggers? In order to get the blast of fog synchronized with the sound and light, everyone else has used a valve to hold back the fog, which is then released at the correct moment.


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## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

The fogger is always on, heating as long as its plugged in. With the remote, it'll just sit there until the button is pressed, if the remote's hacked and triggered by VSA and an SSR then I wont have to do anything if there's a fogger trigger in the routine.


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## thedudedrummer (Jun 21, 2007)

If your only using 2 foggers for 4 cannons, I would make them do alternating pairs..... not two cannons right next to eachother... in essence it would be..... just overlapping the Y's... so every other cannon is each fogger C1(F1) C2(F2) C3(F1) C4(F2)... like that... I tried drawing it with text but it would not accept it the way I wanted to... but this way it would give the TOTs less of an idea that your using just 2 foggers... but again this method without valves will give less of an explosive plume look and more of a spray like the actual foggers themselves. You could do it with servos, but even with cheap ones... unless you get a deal on ebay (right now theres a set of 16 used with a bunch of recievers and batterys for like 20 dollars)... that would add up to 60+ if you paid retaill for 4 of them.

So if you have the extra cash Id go with the valve system over another fogger, but if you dont another fogger with an alternating pattern would be your best bet.


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## thedudedrummer (Jun 21, 2007)

actually captain, I have 7 of the 400 watt foggers from walmart, target, michaels, etc... that are slightly used, and Id be glad to pass you one of them when you pick up your skulls... otherwise I could send one to you... theyre not brand new but if you run some cleaning solution (2:1 ratio of distilled water to distilled vinegar) they should run like new.


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## 22ndStHorror (Oct 24, 2006)

alwysrit2, I watched your video of the cannon foggers and happened to notice it said your last name is Long, if that is correct, I just wanted to say that my last name is also Long and we built a pirate ship last year for Halloween as well, several of our friends have been asking if that is us on youtube, lol, 2 pirate halloween haunts by 2 different Long family's, kinda ironic.


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## WILLIDEE (Sep 18, 2007)

Can't wait to try this, looks real nice.


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## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

Wow, what arrrre the odds of that?!!

I have the same thing happen to me a lot... I'm always being mistaken for George Clooney 

TJ


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## anthonymharwood (Aug 7, 2008)

I love your decisgn/concept and would love to apply it to my haunted pirate ship. Can you detail more on the parts? I happen to already have the Antari 1200watt fogger. How did you hook up the fogger to the contraption? When you attached the fogger, was it pressurised at all? What size gates did you use?


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## alwysrit2 (Jul 28, 2006)

*Parts -*

Hi Anthony, The gates as well as the rest of the piping is 2.5" from a work shop dust collection system. I had about 15' of pipe, 4 T's, one for each cannon, a gate for each cannon plus one for the end. The one on the end is kept open about 1/2 & allows the fog to travel down the length when none of the other gates are open, otherwise it can't flow to the end well and it will be slower when firing the last cannon. The fogger isn't physically connected, the pipe just comes right up to it, actually melted it a bit the last time it was used. Before I had the 1200w fogger, I was using a 400 watt and I did play around with adding air to push it through faster, but found it wasn't needed with the 1200. 
Hope this helps
-Don


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## anthonymharwood (Aug 7, 2008)

*Opening gates*

Thanks for the reply. One last thing, how are you opening the gates? I see that you are use pnematic cylnder with air. How are you controlling the air to the cylnder? In the past I have used washing machine solenoid. I guess this would still work but have a 4 way splitter on the output of the solonoid. Have you any better ideas?


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## alwysrit2 (Jul 28, 2006)

I used 8 pneumatic solonoids, 4 for open and 4 for close. If you end up using just 2 and splitting it, you will be opening and closing all of them at the same time. There was some talk about using servo's, but I didn't see how that was easier. For controlling the solonoids, the lights and the fogger, I used a Olsen 595, a 64 channel do it yourself Xmas light controller and Vixen for the software. There is a ton of info on those at DoItYourselfChristmas.com. I have noticed more people from this forum over there lately.
-Don


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## anthonymharwood (Aug 7, 2008)

*Same design with a little more to it!*

We took the gate/fog machine design using the Atari fog machine and added the control to a sound box that would open the gates based on a cannon sound from a CD player. The CD player was connected to a sound control box that would send power to a light inside the cannon, open the gates, and send the smoke into the tubes. Check out the end result at YouTube - halloween 2008 pirate cannons. The modification to the atari fog machine was easy since it used a 12 volt ac, just wired 12 volt ac adapter to it.


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## spinman1949 (Oct 20, 2008)

*Nice effect !*

Butterfly like in a carb could work. Plus easy to control with solenoid.

Spinman


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## wicc_ed (Apr 12, 2008)

Wow, Im speechless!


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## spinman1949 (Oct 20, 2008)

*Re pushing the fog.*

Since you have the tube open on the opposite end to allow the fog to fully charge the tube, I have an idea. Put a plug fired by an actuator on that end. You can cut a hole just inside of it's home position to allow the tube to load. When you fire a cannon, you engage the plug. I figure even a cheap door closer would work. Plus the spring return would help to start the recharge cycle. I think this will be just if not more effective than trying to provide some kind of air charge. If you really wanted to get fancy, you could extend the cannon tubes to opposite side and place actuator plugs at each cannon. A complete redesign could go like this. Put your dampers out at the end of the cannon. Make your cannon tubes longer. Feed the tubes near the opposite end. Just in front of your piston/plugs. So now the fogger fills the entire tube. You of course will need a bleeder tube near the damper on each cannon to allow the entire cannon tube to load. The cool part of this is that with all tubes loaded, you could fire off a salvo. One thing would require some testing. How far from the piston you put the supply inlet. I would put it so the piston would just go past. I realize that some fog will be forced back into the supply tube on firing, but I think the return stroke will create a vacuum which will improve the recharge cycle.

I would likely use a lever to increase the throw of the plug/piston. I figure if you can get upwards of 2 feet of throw, you are going to see one heck of a fog blast. Likely end up with a smoke ring effect, which would be totally cool.

Spinman


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## RacerX45 (Apr 30, 2008)

What about something like this to open and close the gates? I would like to add something like this to my pirate ship (I have a 20 foot replica of the Black Pearl) but do not have any pnuematic stuff.

DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR | AllElectronics.com

Randy


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## wicc_ed (Apr 12, 2008)

You will have to be able to reverse the current to move the actuator in the opposite direction.


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## spinman1949 (Oct 20, 2008)

Don't think the lock actuator will travel enough to move the damper gate the original poster is using. Personally I would use a butterfly valve which only requires a 90 degee movement. This could be controlled by an inexpensive solenoid. Those door lock actuator are not cheap. They are designed to hold their position without input. So when activated the hold lock closed without any electical input. Then they hold lock open when reverse voltage is applied. It would be easier to use a timing board to hold a spring loaded solenoid open for the duration of the fog blast.


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## Shanahan (May 4, 2009)

*What a cool idea!!!*

Ive been looking at this idea for the last year or so, and i think I'm gunna try it!

2 1/2 inch blast gates 

Clippard mini pneumatics.... soleniod valves, and cylinders. 

Not sure on the controller yet?!

Watching the videos at the first page, the top video looks much better and improved from the bottom video. 

Really cool Alwyscrit, thats for the idea and helpful info!


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## yardhauntjunkie (Feb 26, 2009)

Shanahan said:


> Ive been looking at this idea for the last year or so, and i think I'm gunna try it!
> 
> 2 1/2 inch blast gates
> 
> ...


Glad you revived this thread. I am not doing a pirate themed haunt, but I really want to make one of these now. Yet, another distraction.


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## darkmaster (Apr 29, 2009)

I built two air cannons with 24 volt sprinkler valves and placed one on one end of the cannon, then added a red light inside. There is a timer board hooked up to a PIR that starts the system. the servo board allows the pirate to speak with the animated mouth movement. The pirate speaks his speach to tell the patrons to stop or he'll shoot. He gives the word and the sytem flashes the red light and immediately fires the air cannon and a second later another air cannon sends a blast of air down a pipe which is below the water line of the pond and shoots the water in the air. A great effect, but I don't have a video of it. The servo board is from Computer & Electronic Services. and I can't remember where the timer was from.


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## darkmaster (Apr 29, 2009)

The other timer is from Haunted Enterprises - Haunted Village - Home of the Last Ride. The animation maestro II, there is probably a better way, but I like this one. You don't need a computer and total cost is less the computer programs and can be placed in areas where computers can't go.


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## Shanahan (May 4, 2009)

So an upgraded fogger and it looks like a 4" manifold in that first video. The supply pipe looks bigger. 2nd video definately looks like 3". 1st video looks like 4". Gates still 2.5" or upgraded to 4".

Only reason I'm wonder is because the first video is quite an improvement from the second in my opinion.


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## Shanahan (May 4, 2009)

Maybe those are support boards to hold the piping straight making the manifold look like 4". 

Now if we could get the fog to ring out like that of a fog\smoke ring generator, wouldnt that be somethin???


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## Hooked_on_Scares (Apr 16, 2009)

Hey, just caught up on this thread. I did some cannons a few years back that did blow smoke rings occasionally. The were a little different than you guys are describing.

I tucked a small cheapo smoke machine into each (of 2) cannons. Each cannon had a 2.5" (I think) PVC pipe running down the middle, and the smoke would shoot down the pipe toward the end of the cannon. 
View attachment 4250


This didn't work that well, for lack of pressure, but with a puff of compressor air, it was perfect. I ran flexible copper tubing alongside the smoke machine (strapped to one of the 1x2s), and 'injected' the boost of air into the back of the PVC pipe (along with the smoke). [Sorry, don't have a closeup pic of the cannons with the copper installed] 
View attachment 4251


Basically, you've got the smoke machine output nozzle separated from the back of the PVC tube by a couple inches, and the copper tube goes inside the pipe a couple inches (I think? - it was a few years ago). Injecting the high-speed compressor air creates a vaccuum at the back of the pipe, and it sucks-in both smoke and more air.


I had the whole thing running from a CD player along with sound triggers for the smoke machine and air solenoid (smoke - ...wait... - air/_boom_). The coolest thing, though was the occasional smoke rings that would come out! Dunno why sometimes they did and sometimes they didn't, but it looked pretty cool! The rings usually flew about 10' or so before dissipating.
View attachment 4249


- Hook


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## Shanahan (May 4, 2009)

Cool idea Hook, have any video of these suckers in action?

Yeah...figured there would be some delay waiting for those little fog machines to kick it out at the end of those pipes. 

Your idea but with a 4" pipe and a little more juice from a bigger fog machine.

Or 

Install a little fog machine in the sealable larger chamber with your burst of air centered down to smaller 4" pipe. Larger chamber could be concealed behind the pirate ship wall.

Smoke ring generator concept, but applied to a pirate cannon. 

Hmmmmm....wheels turnin! 

Great work, thanx for sharing your ideas!


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## Shanahan (May 4, 2009)

Ok No....fogger in a sealable larger container no good, would get all slimey and nasty! Fogger would have to just supply the larger container.


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## Hooked_on_Scares (Apr 16, 2009)

No, unfortunately, no video.

After carefully studying an AirZooka, I can now say I'm a master of air vorticies (pshhh!). 

In order to maximize smoke ringage, I'd try the following...

1) Get ahold of one of those tiny air cannons shown above in the thread (with the accumulator made of pipe).
2) Use a bigger cannon tube than I did (maybe 4"), and shoot the smoke and air-shot into the open back-end (open-end lets additional air get sucked in)
3) Add an abrupt restriction at the business end of the cannon (like a 4-to-2.5" conversion... do they have those?)

The quick restriction should create high-speed airflow coming out of the cannon, surrounded by a lower pressure area. This should cause the spinning air that causes the vortex. Or it might create a micro-black hole. Either way, it'd be cool to watch.

- Hook


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## SeanLee (Sep 17, 2009)

Question... assuming you're using an Olsen 595 for all this, how do you activate the 400W foggers? They either come with a manual switch or you can buy the remote for about $9. Either way, it's a push-button operation. And they have to be "on" all the time in order to maintain the heat required to activate the fog juice.

Thanks

-Sean


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## chef (Jun 7, 2010)

Awesome thread! Thanks ya buckaneers!


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## Mr.PumpkinGrin (Mar 22, 2009)

Would you be able to make a cannon that, when you push a button on the side, would fire when you wanted it to? I'm planning on making some big cannons for actors to use in a bttle between two ships. It'd be nice for them to be able to shoot the cannons instead of just going off whenever they're timed to, Thanks! you're guys ideas rock and my mind is going crazy! (sorry if someone already asked the question)


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## darkmaster (Apr 29, 2009)

What I would do is hook up the foggers to the cannons, and possibly use some air solenoid valves. Turn on the foggers and use the manual switch that comes with them. Now the fog is in the cannon. When it's time to fire the cannons, the actor would activate the fogger, allowing fog into the cannon, then activate the solenoid, which in turn would blow air inside and make noise and then the fog comes out the other end.
Depending on how long the fogger is on, there may be enough fog inside to activate the solenoids a few times, without using the foggers all the time.
I hope this works for you.


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## mkozik (Jul 7, 2006)

Many have asked about the ability to use a solenoid to control the valve, what about using an HVAC damper for this application (http://www.homedepot.com/SPEEDI-COL...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053) This is a butterfly type valve and does not need quite as much of a throw possibly allowing the solenoid to work. Ideas?


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