# Life size prop pvc frame



## xxScorpion64xx

Here's my version that I've been using for years. It's meant for a stable flat even surface:

Materials:

I use 3/4 inch pvc

1 cross

2 45 degree elbows

4 90 degree elbows

5 T connections

(1) 3 and 1/2 inch neck

(2) 9 inch shoulder blades

(1) 24 inch spine

(2) 18 and 1/2 arms

(2) 4 and 3/4 inch hips

(2) 36 inch legs

(4) 8 and 1/2 inch lenghts for base


Once you get all those pieces, it's pretty self explanatory joining them together

Once I have all it together, I slip on the clothes and use safety pins to fasten the top with the pants and then use plastic grocery bags to stuff it
but of course you can use your own method 

Here are some pics of the pieces laid out on ground and some erect










































































Hope this helps


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## SasyGrl31

oh my........he's naked!


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## R4ZORx

I think a good idea would be to replace the 90 degree elbows on the 'feet' with 'T's so you could put a stake or something through it to secure it to the ground.


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## xxScorpion64xx

R4ZORx said:


> I think a good idea would be to replace the 90 degree elbows on the 'feet' with 'T's so you could put a stake or something through it to secure it to the ground.


Thats a good option if you want to use it outdoors, that's the beauty of pvc, interchanges quickly! Thanks Razor!


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## R4ZORx

xxScorpion64xx said:


> Thanks Razor!


No, Thank you!! I going to steal this idea! I've made some PVC 'men' in the past. but none with legs. Let's just say they were ALL spine shoved in the ground (not very stable). The 'feet' will really help him stay upright.


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## GobbyGruesome

Love this - all of mine are wood and they gets HEAVY (which sometimes is not a bad thing.) Any idea roughly how much one of these would cost to build?


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## R4ZORx

I priced the pieces at Home Depot online just now. I got around $13 and change for all the pipe and fittings.


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## xxScorpion64xx

GobbyGruesome said:


> Love this - all of mine are wood and they gets HEAVY (which sometimes is not a bad thing.) Any idea roughly how much one of these would cost to build?


Very, very cheap..you need two lengths of the pvc pipes, I think they are like 3 dollars each, forgot how long each is I think ten feet, and the fittings average 
45 cents to 65 cents each


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## GobbyGruesome

Wow - you're awesome. Thanks so much. I think I'll try to make the switch for next year! 

Thanks again.


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## xxScorpion64xx

R4ZORx said:


> I priced the pieces at Home Depot online just now. I got around $13 and change for all the pipe and fittings.


Yeah, I misquoted the prices because they were based on a mom and pop hardware so everything was a little bit more expensive than the big home improvement stores, sorry about that


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## R4ZORx

Okay, got the pieces today from Home Depot and it was $11 and change. I added joints to the arms and 'T' joints for the feet. I also made the spine 26" long. All other measurements were kept the same.


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## GobbyGruesome

Looks fantastic!


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## xxScorpion64xx

R4ZORx said:


> Okay, got the pieces today from Home Depot and it was $11 and change. I added joints to the arms and 'T' joints for the feet. I also made the spine 26" long. All other measurements were kept the same.
> View attachment 95593


Nice, very nice Razor, I'm gonna try some joints for.the elbows, ...how long would you.estimate it took from start to finish Razor?


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## R4ZORx

Well, I used a hacksaw to do all the cutting, so....maybe 30 minutes or less. Would be quicker with a power saw!


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## xxScorpion64xx

30 minutes, nice....I do want to point out one thing though, the measurements in this tutorial were meant for building a prop for Leather Face, I've built other frames for other characters that are smaller, for example, I built a little old.evil lady and her shoulder blades, arms pelvis and legs were smaller, so adjust the length of the pieces according to the character you are building...


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## peagreen

xxScorpion64xx said:


> the measurements in this tutorial were meant for building a prop for Leather Face


Does that mean an average sized adult male?


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## xxScorpion64xx

I would say my leatherface stands around 6 foot 3..


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## Terror Tom

I built my first PVC dummy today! I have used mannequins and shepherd's hooks to make mine in the past. Here's how he turned out. I drilled a 5/8" hole through the T at the bottom so I could slide him over a couple of 4' long 1/2" rebar that I pounded in the ground about a foot.


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## xxScorpion64xx

Nice, sounds like it is staying put, thanks for the tip!


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## VirusHaunt

this is pvc based>>>>>>>


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## DexterSinister

R4ZORx said:


> Well, I used a hacksaw to do all the cutting, so....maybe 30 minutes or less. Would be quicker with a power saw!


I recommend investing in a pvc cutting tool. Less messy than a saw. Makes quick, clean, even cuts. If you build more than one or use pvc piping for other projects, it's definitely worth it. 

I built my first pvc life-size prop this year. It's a TOT standing at the foot of the drive with a TOT pail and a white sheet ghost costume over it - been there about two weeks. Used pool noodles to fill out the limbs. Got good reactions from people - some think it's cute, some think it's creepy. I think it's sort of like a Rorschach test; What do you see?


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## Xane

If you have a Harbor Freight nearby they have the ratcheting scissor type PVC cutter on sale pretty often for $4, which is a lot cheaper than most retail hardware stores. Even off sale it's only about $6. However, if you want nice, even, straight cuts you need a miter saw (quick) or one of those C-clamp-with-cutting-wheel style pipe cutters (slow!). The C-clamp ones have pretty limited sizes they can cut through, though.


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## Matt1

Gonna try this also. Bought four life size displays this year, so I think it's time to add some pvc figures into the mix. Thanks for the directions


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## WitchDr13

My focal for this year was based on this; I had a 7'2" PVC framed Grim reaper that I added an osciallating fan onto as his head. The fan was plugged into a motion sensor that I set at a 15-20 degree radius at the base of my porch stairs. It only went off when you were about 2 feet from the bottom step.

The fan made him fairly top heavy even with the legs though, so I had to add ropes staked into the ground surrounding his robe to hold him mostly in place.


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## pumpkinheadedskeleton

O....M....G...... 
It never occurred to me to make my figures so I could just slide the "feet" over some rebar like I do with my tombstones (actually I use tomato stakes not rebar). 
So much easier than making a platform like I currently do.
Wow.
Thanks for the idea!

I just use a hand held circular saw to cut my PVC.
Just wear glasses as always.
Hold the PVC in one hand and the saw in the other.
Don't over think it.


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## marigolddesigns

Thank you for these instructions! This is on my "to do" list for next year...do you pull them apart to store them?


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## xxScorpion64xx

marigolddesigns said:


> Thank you for these instructions! This is on my "to do" list for next year...do you pull them apart to store them?



Yes, Since I have like five props, I pull them apart completely and mark each connection and fitting according to the name of prop with a sharpie, yhey fit in one box except for the longer lenghts of pvc


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## LT Scare

I disassemble my frames too. However I usually leave the [hip/spine] and the [shoulders / neck] glued or screwed together. When posing the monster, if an arm won't stay in position, or if a leg needs to stay bent at a "knee" I use a 1" drywall screw to temporarily hold a 90 degree or a 45 degree to the straight PVC.


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## ThAnswr

R4ZORx said:


> I think a good idea would be to replace the 90 degree elbows on the 'feet' with 'T's so you could put a stake or something through it to secure it to the ground.


Wow, just wow. What a brilliant idea. Honestly, I never thought about it. I've been making these pvc frame reapers, witches, etc. for years. Tipping has always been a problem on grass. 

Honestly, I am completely blown away by such a simple idea. Thank you. 

This is why I love this forum.


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## ELH(Erin Loves Halloween)

DUH!!!!!!!!!!! I have used rebar but why did it completely not even register to use it for something like this? I absolutely love it. Thanks for the tutorial


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## Kimber53711

I love to make PVC figures! They are so cheap, easy, and quick! I probably have about 6 : a Michael Myers, a witch, Jack Skellington, a graveyard creep, zombie, and a reaper. And I like to add one each year. I just leave mine put together all year since were lucky enough to have a big garage with space in the rafters, they lay up there nicely. Plus they are easy to make something different each year, just change the mask and costume. I do like the idea about the T connectors to help hold them in the ground as most of mine usually have to "stand" near a wall or a bush to help keep them upright. So I might try that on some next year. Thanks for the tutorial!


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## xxScorpion64xx

I also create a new pvc prop every year, whatever character I was the Halloween before I convert into a prop, I haven't yet made one for outdoors because the masks that I get are pretty expensive and don't want to risk it getting stolen.


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## chaney

What do you use to bulk up the pvc torso? Otherwise it looks like a stick person.  This would be for a witch wearing a dress.


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## xxScorpion64xx

chaney said:


> What do you use to bulk up the pvc torso? Otherwise it looks like a stick person.  This would be for a witch wearing a dress.


I have a scary old lady, I guess she is a witch but not the type that wears a pointy hat. Since she wears a black dress, I used a homemade "fat suit" so to speak. It's just a tee shirt sewn in side another tee shirt sewn together at all the hems sleeves neck and bottom hem.

But before you sew the hems, you stuff it between the shirts. Stuff it just to bulk it up enough to have volume. The dress will hang over it very nice


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## chaney

Picked up a rectangular waste basket for the torso - will add a pvc t or 4 way to the upper spine - drill a whole in the bottom of the basket and glue or screw it in place.


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## xxScorpion64xx

Sounds good chaney, actually anything goes when trying to bulk up the pvc armature. Nice idea, let me know how that works.


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## LT Scare

For a month or two before Halloween we save our plastic [grocery/walmart/newspaper/etc] bags and our news papers. While sitting and watching TV, I loosely crumple sheets of newspaper and stuff them into a bag, then tie the top in a knot. This is not perfectly water proof, but close. I toss them into a corner of the room until the wife complains. Then, as Haunt building time allows, I assemble the PVC frames and hang the bag off of the frame, or stuff them into the pant legs and shirt arms, body, butt, around the neck, etc. The paper/bag combination is fairly maleable. If it puffs out too much in one place, just crunch it a little to compress the paper inside the bag. The skinny newspaper bags are great for shirt sleeves and lower pants. A bigger Target bag is the best chest. 

Not perfect, but at night in the haunt, they look pretty well.


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## xxScorpion64xx

LT Scare said:


> For a month or two before Halloween we save our plastic [grocery/walmart/newspaper/etc] bags and our news papers. While sitting and watching TV, I loosely crumple sheets of newspaper and stuff them into a bag, then tie the top in a knot. This is not perfectly water proof, but close. I toss them into a corner of the room until the wife complains. Then, as Haunt building time allows, I assemble the PVC frames and hang the bag off of the frame, or stuff them into the pant legs and shirt arms, body, butt, around the neck, etc. The paper/bag combination is fairly maleable. If it puffs out too much in one place, just crunch it a little to compress the paper inside the bag. The skinny newspaper bags are great for shirt sleeves and lower pants. A bigger Target bag is the best chest.
> 
> Not perfect, but at night in the haunt, they look pretty well.


I do the same thing LT but I collect newspaper, plastic bags year round, they are great as you explained being maleable

Forgot to mention some people use chicken wire for the torso, o haven't tried it but I'm interested in doing so


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## LT Scare

I use Chicken wire for those props that have motion because the bags could get entwined in the mechanisms. If you are patient and really work the wire, you can shape it almost exactly the way you want. But it takes time to get it right and the edges that are cut are vicious if you are careless. With the bags, you can use safety pins to shape the shirts and pants the way you want. Because they contain the bags, you can stuff them as appropriate.


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## Screaming Demons

If you're going to put clothes on it there's no real need for a human skeletal structure. Run the legs straight up to the shoulders, rather than having hips and a center spine. It'll save time on cutting, money on PVC connections, and add stability to the whole thing.


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## LT Scare

Screaming Demons said:


> If you're going to put clothes on it there's no real need for a human skeletal structure. Run the legs straight up to the shoulders, rather than having hips and a center spine. It'll save time on cutting, money on PVC connections, and add stability to the whole thing.


True. This especially works well with "gown" Halloween costumes that drape from shoulders to the ground. However, for some scenes using hips, spine, etc. enables you to pose the character. I use a screw into a joint to hold the pose. After Halloween, remove the screw, label each piece of PVC (left arm, neck, spine, etc) take them apart and tape them together for storage until next year. Using Glue on the joints will, generally, require more storage space.


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## WOLFPACK7483

I use a trash bag stuffed with batting et(sp) the stuffing used in quilting, blankets etc. Just hang it over the neck portion-you got a gut.


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## Palladino

Do you have a pic of a dressed PVC life size prop?


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## xxScorpion64xx

Have a half dressed one, still need to bulk him up with grocery plastic bags


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## Palladino

Thanks! How will you camouflage the frame at the bottom?


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## xxScorpion64xx

I use a black plastic tablecloth from DG, I shroud the bottom frames, poking a hole for each leg, he will be wearing pants of course and I try to strategically place the boots at the bottom hem of each pant leg


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## Palladino

What do you mean by 1 'cross'?


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## xxScorpion64xx

I use a black plastic tablecloth from DG, I shroud the bottom frames, poking a hole for each leg, he will be wearing pants of course and I try to strategically place the boots at the bottom hem of each pant leg


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## xxScorpion64xx

Palladino said:


> What do you mean by 1 'cross'?


Sorry about the double post

If you look at the pic of the Creeper, the "cross" I refer to is the connector that attaches the spine, the shoulder blades and the neck together


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## Paul Pryor

I bought the contractor packs of the t's and the 90deg elbows and enough of the rest to build 2 of these and the whole thing for both was right at $20!!!! BTW took me about 10 min to cut and assemble the pieces DONE AND DONE.... WOOT!!!!!


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## Paul Pryor

I need to add some foam at stuff to thicken him up some but overall very happy and he is going in my upstairs window with a strobe to light him up on and off so I think it will serve the purpose perfect.... BTW with the head and following the exact sizes for PVC pieces listed he comes in about 6'5"


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## xxScorpion64xx

Paul Pryor said:


> I need to add some foam at stuff to thicken him up some but overall very happy and he is going in my upstairs window with a strobe to light him up on and off so I think it will serve the purpose perfect.... BTW with the head and following the exact sizes for PVC pieces listed he comes in about 6'5"
> View attachment 175805


He looks pretty darn good PP, yeah I noticed the imposing size, I had to trim a bit because he looked too tall but it depends on what character you are going for, I need to experiment with the poses as far as the elbows and shoulders are concerned but yours looks just the right size PP


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## chaney

My pvc witch with a waste basket for upper body.


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## xxScorpion64xx

Anything to make it work huh chaney? She looks great, I like the lighting, really accentuates her features in face


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## AustinFOS

What do you use for the hands on these type props ? The witch's hands look great !


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## chaney

I bought a pair of zombie gloves at party city - painted them green and then dry brushed a little black paint to tone them down. For inside the gloves cut a piece of foam board for the palm and some stiff electrical wire for the fingers - poseable hands.


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## halloweenfan5

Went to home depot on my lunch break and picked up some PVC to make about 5 new static props. YIPPIE!!! Here are the pipes jammed into my saturn. Thankfully I had my helper (Jack) with me. He rides shotgun from 10/1 through Halloween!


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## oaklawn Crematory

that's pretty good!


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## oaklawn Crematory

xxScorpion64xx said:


> I have a scary old lady, I guess she is a witch but not the type that wears a pointy hat. Since she wears a black dress, I used a homemade "fat suit" so to speak. It's just a tee shirt sewn in side another tee shirt sewn together at all the hems sleeves neck and bottom hem.
> 
> But before you sew the hems, you stuff it between the shirts. Stuff it just to bulk it up enough to have volume. The dress will hang over it very nice











This guy is bulked up using carpet padding, foam pool noodles and lots of duct tape. He's made of PVC and is missing his shoes. There is no stand for him rather I use a 3/8 iron rod inserted thru his shoe or foot into the PVC. This allows me to pose his shoes and or feet any way I like.

Unfortunately, using the iron rod really p*isses him off...He's kinda irritated in this shot.


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## oaklawn Crematory

I'm using an entirely new build method for my Raccoon City PD zombie than the one pictured above. It's kinda of a reverse stuff. I started with someone wearing a T-shirt and wrapping the person with Duct tape. I then cut open the back of the T-shirt like a hospital gown. I removed the T-shirt and put it on the zombie. 

The T-shirt holds the shape of the wearer. I repaired the cut and inserted pieces of foam cushions. The foam cushion is light and expands against the inside of the T-shirt , forcing it to hold its shape. I duct taped the pieces inside...

It's pretty easy so far and its not too heavy for the Spider Hill Joints I started using.


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## xxScorpion64xx

Oaklawn, I really like the way your zombie looks, the one pictured a couple of posts above in the cemetary and I'm really interested in your innovative design on the reverse stuff t-shirt with duct tape, brilliant!!!! Do you have a pic?


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## oaklawn Crematory

xxScorpion64xx said:


> Oaklawn, I really like the way your zombie looks, the one pictured a couple of posts above in the cemetary and I'm really interested in your innovative design on the reverse stuff t-shirt with duct tape, brilliant!!!! Do you have a pic?

















I didn't think of taking pictures while I built him. I took a concept shot with his riot helmet on and the other is his current state now. The Boss is looking at him in dismay or rather at me for him lying on my living room floor.


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## xxScorpion64xx

Thanks for sharing Oaklawn


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## z0mbie st0mp

I built this frame for about 13 dollars








It's free standing and is about as tall as a 5.5 person


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## xxScorpion64xx

z0mbie st0mp said:


> I built this frame for about 13 dollars
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's free standing and is about as tall as a 5.5 person


This pose and the base reminds me of the werewolf spirit put out last year, very cool frame.


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## acanton04

How did you mount the head to the frame? I have a styrofoam head ( I plan to cover with a mask).


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## z0mbie st0mp

acanton04 said:


> How did you mount the head to the frame? I have a styrofoam head ( I plan to cover with a mask).


If you asking me... I put a T in the neck area with a vertical post to mount my head


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## GobbyGruesome

These are great - I've switched over most of our figures to PVC - It's a shame the tubing is like 3x the price here in Canada. 

If you're just getting started with these, you might want to check out Spider-Hill Propworks. They sell adjustable joints and they've got some free plans on their site to help you figure out measurements.

http://www.spiderhillpropworks.com/Halloween-Prop-Plans_ep_41-1.html

Again, if shipping to Canada wasn't so much, I'd be ordering a case of the connectors every year.


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## GobbyGruesome

ˆI'm thinking the Spider-Hill stuff is the next diameter up from what's being used in a lot of these posts. definitely makes posing things a heckuva lot easier though.


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## Mapleton Manor

I purchased several of these this year and simply zip tied them to our PVC frames they were $7 for the female and $8 for the male forms and got them from storesupply.com


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