# Great Stuff Foam Skulls



## Lurks in the shadows (Mar 12, 2005)

Duh... Me post twice.


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## Lurks in the shadows (Mar 12, 2005)

I can't help with the site, but I wouldn't "fill" the molds with Great Stuff.
A large amount of any one part foam wont cure properly, the middle won't get the moisture it needs to cure. 
(yes, this is the voice of experience  )
I'd either use a two part foam ($$) or just a thin shell of Great Stuff.

Do you remember what they use as a release agent?


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## chubacabra (Jul 19, 2004)

i believe that this what you are talking about
http://thewidowsden.com/blow_mold_skull_mold.htm


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## deathofdave (Dec 26, 2004)

here too on the side of the page
http://www.spookyblue.com/halloween/guest_haunter/cameroncorpse/


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## Pennywise (Oct 21, 2004)

Thanks guys! Lurks, the release agent is hand soap lol. Thanks Dave that's the one! Thanks to you too chupacabra that site is useful as well. Want to make a horde of skulls this year. Don't want to buy them all and the paper mache duplication method takes forever to make. Besides some of them will be used as a base for monter heads made in clay, and others will be corpses. Thanks again guys!


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## Lurks in the shadows (Mar 12, 2005)

Ah! That's a silicone matrix mold with a plaster mother mold.
Soap is a fine release for this. (Dry it with a hair drier) 
I couldn't think of a reliable release for Poly foam and PoP. The foam and silicone should be fine, if you use 100% silicone caulk.

With the flexability of the silicone, you can get away with minor undercuts, and other imperfections.


Good instructions... The only thing I would do differently would be to silicone the entire skull, then put up a clay dividing wall with registration notches, and make the only seam by cutting the silicone up the back. Still use a two piece mother, that way the mother holds the sides of the seam cut together.

And just make a foam shell, after that's cured maybe fill it the rest of the way.

I don't mean to come across as an arrogant know-it-all, (OK, I am a little bit arrogant) but I do know molds.
With the right materials, I can mold and cast darn near anything!


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## sisvicki (Jan 30, 2004)

Pennywise - did you try it yet? Did it work? What kind of silicone and where did you buy it? What kind of clay for the divider? What kind of hand soap, liquid? bar? Dove? Ivory?

Lurks, have you tried this? Why dry the soap with a hair drier? Do you smear it on wet? How many casts will it take? What's a registration notch? Why would cutting the silicone, then making a mother be better? Is cutting up the back (and I would assume down the fron of the face) be better than from ear to ear?


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## Pennywise (Oct 21, 2004)

Haven't tried it yet sis. As soon as I get silicon though I'm going nuts with this idea (thank you Spooky Blue!) Lurks, will hand soap or dish detergent work as a release for plaster of Paris too? Maybe I can bypass the whole silicon thing and make 2 half molds (back and front) and spray a thin layer on each and build it up gradually. I know vaseline works with Plaster.


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## sisvicki (Jan 30, 2004)

Pennywise, please keep in touch with how this goes, 'kay? I've been dying to make a ton of skulls myself, just not sure how to start. I've been doing the aluminum foil/masking tape/paper mache' thing and it's O.K., but, just like you said, not very fast.


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## putrid (Aug 18, 2002)

if we make our crypt this year we'll need over 100 skulls. I'm interested in the spray foam idea for this. 

Lurks in the shadows, let's see if I'm getting you right. But I do have some questions. Not that smart. LOL
Make a one piece silicone mold. Cut it up the back to the forehead so there will only be a short line to deal with. Can this be done with the tube silicone?
Use the divider to separate the two plaster 'mother' mold halves. Would the keys work better on the outsides of the mold?
The plaster would help hold the cut in place when you spray the skull mold from the open bottom?
Inquiring minds want to know! LOL

I read somewhere about pressing a skull face into sand and making a spray foam copy of it. Has anyone heard of or tried this?


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## Vlad (Nov 2, 2003)

I've been playing around with making foam skulls in my molds, and the results so far have only been so so, but encouraging. You need to use the minimally expanding foam, not the regular triple expanding. The two part mix your own foams probably would give better results, but it's way too expensive for the amount of skulls it would seem to turn out. The same goes for using an UltraCal mold and buying the casting latex and hardener. Even when you'r using Great Stuff, remember, that one can is way more than you need for one skull. And unless you use the can up right away, chance are you'll never get the rest out. That's why I've made multiple molds, so that I don't waste any. By the time you're done, it seems you could buy the skulls from Odd Lots during the season for the same money. It's only the fun of making my own that makes it worthwhile.
Putrid, when I place my latex/silicon mold back into the mother mold before casting, I just duct tape the seam closed on the outside of the latex mold. It leaves almost no trace. I've spoken to people who've tried the sand idea, and all have said that it wasn't worth the effort. And yes, %100 silicon in a caulk tube will do the same thing. GE 2 silicon is one brand that springs to mind, and is sometimes on sale. The benefit of silicon over latex is it's longevity,resistance to shrinking and degredation over time. It's downside is it's cost.
Foam skulls are a necessity for some settings and props, but for basic displays etc. you'll never beat just making your pulls out of plaster. They're hardier than you'd think once you finish them properly, and polyurethane them. At $8 for a 25 lb. bag of plaster, I can make one hell of a lot of skulls.


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## Lurks in the shadows (Mar 12, 2005)

Grrr!!!!

I just lost my response to all the questions!

I have a very busy schedule tomorrow, but I'll write up a silicone matrix mold how-to as soon as I can, hopefully answering everything again.

I R not reel gud with this here e-lekrtic stuff!


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## putrid (Aug 18, 2002)

Lurks in the Shadows, I've done the same thing. Type something in for a good 15 minuets and end up loosing it all. I'm a victim of of my own 'clever stupidity'. LOL

Vlad, I'm hoping to make 12 4x4 panels of bones and skulls for our crypt. How heavy and durable are your skulls?


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## Pennywise (Oct 21, 2004)

I thought of something else that may work too, but I haven't tried it yet. Why not get some clay (or make some at home) and press a skull into it to create the negative then spray Great stuff into the clay? You would need to do both front and back this way but it might work in a pinch.


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## Vlad (Nov 2, 2003)

Hi Putrid, They're heavy for sure. If you're talking about filling those panels with plaster castings, I'd say probably not. Here's how they look when you set a bolt in them before they harden. They attach well and will never fall off.>>>>>>>>>>>>
http://www.kodakgallery.com/PhotoVi...e&Ux=0&collid=39440033506&photoid=60809733506

But the main problem is going to be storage. As durable as they are, they won't take a lot of banging together. On the other hand, neither will foam ones, but the completed panels would be a lot lighter. I'd say that they'd be harder for TOTers and such to damage than foam ones. Latex skulls would be okay, but they're subject to up to 10% shrinkage over time, as well as breaking down in the light and temp. extremes, as most storage areas go through.


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## putrid (Aug 18, 2002)

Well I guess this means it's off to the paper mache mill for me. LOL Durability and weight are big issues. The panels will be stored in our attic so latex isn't an option. If I can get the crypt together I'm going to use the following eye's technique in each one of the skulls. When the TOT's walk through they will have 100 pair of eye's following there every move.


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## Vlad (Nov 2, 2003)

Putrid, What I'm experimenting with now, is using latex molds, and using paper mache' as the casting material. I should have some pics by early next week. I believe it's the best most cost effective method to use. I'm going to press the paper mache' into the molds. I'll be using toilet paper for the first layer. That should allow it to pick up the most detail. The end result should be lightweight as well as long term and weather resistant. I just can't justify spending the amount of money needed to do it all with either great stuff foam, or casting latex, resins, etc.. I need a ton of skulls this year also, as I want to build a skull fireplace. The key is going to be starting now, and making them constantly. Sometimes low tech is just more fun in the long run anyway.


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## sisvicki (Jan 30, 2004)

Vlad, keep us updated on that paper mache' thing. Pics would be great. And my next question is why would you use a latex mold for that, could you use any kind of mold? What would you use as a release or would it even need one?


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## putrid (Aug 18, 2002)

Definitely interested in your pressed paper molding Vlad. If you get good results I'll start boiling me some paper mache pulp.

For paper mache recipe's check this site out.

http://home.eol.ca/~props/recipes.html#rec2

From what I've heard from folks who've done this is it stinks. It's better to do outside on a gas grill burner.


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## Lurks in the shadows (Mar 12, 2005)

Silicone matrix how-to

This is how to make a very long lasting, non-shrinking mold, suitable for casting many materials. 
Plaster, cement, resin, and foam for a few. It's not very good for casting latex though, as the latex tends to run off the sides of the silicone.

Definitions and abbreviations;

Matrix mold: a mold with a seperate inside layer, supported by a hard shell.
Mother mold: the hard shell that gives support to a matrix mold.
Dividing wall: a (usually) clay barrier, used to create a flat edge where the mold halves meet.
The better the wall, the better the seam will be on the final casting.
Positive: Pos. the original sculpt or item you are molding.
Negative: Neg, the mold created from a positive.
Casting: what you remove from the mold, the end product.
Registration or Keys: lining up two or more sections. Can be pegs, bumps, notches, anything that forces the parts to align only one way.
Plaster of Paris: PoP
Release: thin coating of something that prevents the Pos. from adhereing to the Neg. etc...
Tube Silicone: 100% silicone caulking. Only 100% silicone!

First you must eliminate any major undercuts in the positive.
Just use clay to fill any areas that would lock the mold onto the original.

Make a "fill neck", in this case (a skull) the fill neck would be where the actual neck would be.
This is just a rod of clay that when removed, will leave a hole in the bottom of your mold, later to be used for filling.
Make it at least 2 inches in diameter to as large as you want.

You may need to fill in under the jaw, behind teeth, etc...

After preparing the pos. coat it with release, soap will do. 
Let it dry, you can speed it up with a hair drier, but don't melt the clay.

Cover the entire pos. except end of fill neck, with silicone. 
I'd suggest 1/2 inch thick, as tube silicone isn't the strongest.
Take your time, be careful not to entrap any air between the pos. and the silicone.
The surface of the silicone need not be perfectly smooth, in fact a few bumps will help align the silicone inside the mother.

Helpful tip: Mist the silicone with water when you have it all covered. 
One part (tube) silicone is moisture cure.
*Advanced tip* Stir in a few drops of water to speed up the cure, don't stir in any air though.

After the silicone has fully cured, lay up a dividing wall. Make the wall about three inches high. 
With the pos. sitting on the fill neck, put a wall of clay dividing the skull ear to ear, all the way down the fill neck.
Add registration keys to the wall. 
These are simply pieces of clay that will create notches in the side of the mother mold to allow the halves to fit together positively, in perfect alignment.
Once more, watch out for undercuts.

Coat the whole thing with a thin layer of soap as a release, again be careful with the clay.

Apply the PoP to the side with the registration keys. This will be either the face or the back of the skull. 
Make the PoP mother mold at least an inch thick. Let the PoP dry.

Remove the dividing wall and notches clay. In this case it is not vital to have a perfect seam, as this seam is only between the mother halves and will not effct the casting.

Apply a good coat of Vaseline to the edge of the mother where the wall was, also up onto the outer surface of the first half. Not so thick that it leaves gobs, but you need a layer on the surface to allow you to seperate the halves.

Check to ensure you have no undercuts with the registration notches.

Make the second half of the mother the same way as the first, being careful to get the PoP into the reg. notches, and to be fairly close to the same thickness.

After the two halves have cured, dig out the fill neck clay, and carefully pull the mother mold halves from the silicone matrix mold.
Carefully cut the silicone, to remove the original. Make the cut in the back of the skull, up from the fill neck only as far as you need to get the skull out.

clean the inside of the silicone, re-assemble the mold, duct tape the mother together.

Apply a layer of release to the inside of the mold, and add your casting material!



Some things I may not have answered...

Soap release is just a thin layer of dried soapy water, applied as a wet froth. Nearly any soap will work.

Number of casts you can get out of this kind of mold, Thousands. Really. This is a very durable mold.

This mold uses the mother to hold the silicone in place, the one short seam is 90 degrees from the mothermold seam, so it is held in place very well.

The general rule with molds is; Hard pos. - Flexible neg.(supported by a removable mother mold.)
Hard Neg. - Flexible Pos. (Latex masks)
Hard neg. will sometimes work with a hard pos. but that's not for beginners, and if everything is flexible, nothing will hold it's shape.

PoP is quite absorbent, and Poly Foam is very adhesive... I wouldn't trust soap for PoP/Foam. Try paste wax. Yep, Turtle wax for your car! Buff it into the plaster until you get a nice smooth slippery layer.

Another helpful hint: Great stuff is a moisture cure one part Poly-Foam. 
Lightly mist a layer of foam with water before adding another layer, you can get a thicker amount of foam to cure that way.



Now that you know how to make a professional silicone mold, I must ask that you use this new skill only for good, not for evil.
Please, don't recast things that others own the rights to. You wouldn't like someone stealing your creations.
_________________________________

Putrid, it sounds like you've got it!

Vlad makes a very good point about cost effectiveness versus durability versus ease of use versus... The list goes on.

I would do a similar mold process for the paper-Mache skulls. (In fact, I have!)
A latex detail mold with a hard mother backing for support.
Latex isn't as pliable as silicone, and is therefor better suited for a clay or paper-mache press.
I wouldn't think any release is needed. I've used this mold for cement, UC30, FRG, Pop, Sculptamold (basically that's like paper-mache) and clay.


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## putrid (Aug 18, 2002)

Thanks for the info Lurks in the shadows. Looks like silicone is the way I'll go.


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## Pennywise (Oct 21, 2004)

Very In-depth...I'm going to try this with papier mache pulp and with Great Stuff. I've found that working with Great Stuff can be more hassle than it's worth. Thanks Lurks!


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## Vlad (Nov 2, 2003)

Hi sis, the reason I'm using a mold, is because I won't have to worry about the mache sticking to an original, I already have molds made, and pressing the mache' in seems to be much easier than applying it on. This way, the outer layer of the mache' has the ultimate detail, whereas if you apply mache' to the outside of an original, it loses detail with each additional layer you apply. No need for a release agent between mache' and latex. And yes, you could use other types of molds, but then you might very well need a release agent. The problem then becomes trying to get the release agent off of the mache' so you can paint it.

Putrid, At the moment I'm experimenting with unboiled. I seem to get way too much shrinkage with the boiled. I'm probably just applying it too thickly. But there again, I said this is only the start of the experiment.

And yes, yes, yes, I'm taking pics as I go,lol.


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## putrid (Aug 18, 2002)

Vlad, is the toilet paper doing well? What type of glue mix are you using? Can't you get the stuff done any faster? JK LOL Looking forward to seeing your results.


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## Vlad (Nov 2, 2003)

Going as fast as I can,lol.


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## Lurks in the shadows (Mar 12, 2005)

You're very welcome!

I hope that it helps. 
Good mold-making can make the difference between "I've seen better" comments, and " That lookes real" compliments!


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## sisvicki (Jan 30, 2004)

Wow, you guys are just great. Lurks, fantastic tutorial. 

Vlad, thank you for clearing that up.

I think next weekend is gonna be a all me, all Halloween props weekend. Been spending way too much time with house and yard work. bleh.


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## Pennywise (Oct 21, 2004)

Vlad, Would you still need a release for a silicone mold and papier mache?


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## Lurks in the shadows (Mar 12, 2005)

sisvicki, 
Thanks!
You wouldn't happen to be a yooper, would you?
(I just happen to be a peninsulanian myself. L.P.)

Pennywise,
If I may answer your question to Vlad. I hope I'm not stepping on any toes...

With silicone, you usually don't _need_ any release. But hey, it won't hurt.
With paper-mache and silicone, I don't foresee any difficulties. Except possibly some distortion caused by pressing the mache in too hard, just pay attention to the mold and you'll have no problems.
Silicone (100% that is!) won't stick to much, and vise-versa.
But as always, do a small test to see if you are about to waste your efforts and money!
Especially when using materials for "non-standard" purposes.


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## Vlad (Nov 2, 2003)

Hi all. Finally finished. No Lurks, of course you're not stepping on any toes. We're all here to learn and share and help. There is no release agent needed between the silicon and the mache. But I would again say that with mache, yes it could hurt.The release agent will get into the mache outer layer and make painting and sealing more difficult.

And now without further ado......>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
http://photobucket.com/albums/v194/TerrorOnBeechwood1/Paper Mache Skull/

I had a lot of fun making this guy. I could have done it a lot faster than I did, and used a stronger mache mix. I'm working up a complete how to, and will post it along with the mache recipe I decide on ASAP.


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## Pennywise (Oct 21, 2004)

LOL Vlad, that's the same skull I wanna duplicate! Well, if silicone doesn't stick to much then I think I'll go this route too but I think I'll add the plaster on top of the silicone for support. Can't wait for the how-to


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## Vlad (Nov 2, 2003)

I didn't use a mother mold for this project, although I do have a mother mold for it. The thickness of the mold here helped hold it in shape. This skull was from Big Lots. Not terribly life like, but I had it handy. I'll be using a bucky skull mold for the most part.


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## Pennywise (Oct 21, 2004)

Did you have to apply a release to the original Big Lots skull for the silicon?


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## sisvicki (Jan 30, 2004)

Wow, I wish there was an easy way to print out a whole thread. This one's a definate keeper.

Lurks! You a michigander, too? I am a barely there Yooper. Just over the bridge.


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## putrid (Aug 18, 2002)

"I didn't take the time to trim, sand, or paint this copy. Putrid was rushing me,LOL."
LMAO!
Vlad, I'm thinking if I use the 'ultimate paper mache' recipe. The corn starch should help smooth out the ruff spots. I'm hoping to be able to get the same good results for the mold using Latex from a tube.


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## Dr. Slickshill (Mar 15, 2005)

Vlad, those skulls came out great. Nicely done.


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## Vlad (Nov 2, 2003)

Pennywise.... No, at the very worst, sometimes silicon and latex may partly "dissolve" and remove a little paint from an original, but they will "almost" never stick to it. Test a small area first if you are ever in doubt. I always try to stay away from release agents whenever possible, because they stick to the copies surface and make painting difficult.

Putrid........Just checking if you were reading buddy,LOL. Yes a cornstarch, and or cornstarch and glue mache' are definitely called for here. The straight flour mache is just a personal favorite of mine. I know it's characteristics, and like to use it during experiments. The mold latex I use is from Michael's craft stores. Castin Craft is the brand I believe. After using a %40-%50 off coupon, I estimate that it costs me no more than $2.00 to make a full size skull mold. So you're really not saving any money by trying to use tube latex or silicon not really meant for the purpose.

Dr. Slickshill.......Thanks, the skull turned out okay for a quick production.Sometimes things work and sometimes...........


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## putrid (Aug 18, 2002)

Thanks again for the info and name of the mold material. The silicone caulking would be $4.68 a tube at wally world. Probably take two or more tubes to make a mold so $2 is the way to go. One very important question for you Vlad. Is there an ammonia smell when using Castin Craft? 

Vlad, if your more comfortable using the flour mache you can always use a cornstarch and glue mixture to smooth out the surface. 

I'll save all the rest of my questions till after you post your how-to on this. Then look out budy. Your gona get tired of me quick! LOL


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## Vlad (Nov 2, 2003)

Putrid, I'm so sorry I forgot you're allergic to the ammonia aren't you. Black Cat mentioned it to me once, but I totally forgot. Yes, although my early years as a mechanic have left me virtually unable to smell some things, I've been told that there is definitely a heavy aroma of Ammonia when using latex. Latex is a natural rubber, but it uses the ammonia evaporating to cure into it's final state. Thanks for bringing that up as a warning to others to always work in a well ventilated space, and know the chemicals you're working with before you start.If you're then forced to go with the caulk tubes and use silicone, it's no big deal. Silicone forms a more long lasting mold in the end run anyway. I just prefer the latex for it's cheap cost per mold.

As a side note. The glue mix I'm using for the round #2 experiment seems to take twice as long as the original flour mix to dry. It also has the tendency to tear the toilet paper as it's being applied. I've been tearing the toilet paper into squares and applying them with a paint brush. This forces the air bubbles out and really makes for tight layers of mache. The final skull from round one is really hard as a rock though.


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## putrid (Aug 18, 2002)

Thanks Vlad, that's good to know. It's not so bad. With the boat I'm driving now it would cost me an extra $10 to get to the nearest Michael's. And probably another $20 to get to the next one because the first one wont have it. LOL. 

One question on your mold making. Did you use a material like cheese cloth to strengthen to mold? Or is the mold 100% latex? I plan on making a mold from one of our paper mache copies. It's not as detailed as the skull but the undercuts will be easier to deal with. Most of our skulls will be corpsed. A bumpy and uneven look wont be noticeable.

Vlad, what was your second glue mix made from?

What I plan on doing is making a mold from one of our paper mache' copies. Not as detailed as a skull and easier to fill in the undercuts.


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## Lurks in the shadows (Mar 12, 2005)

Vlad,
Glad to see the fantastic helpful attitude here! Far too many places are frequented by "less than friendly" people.

Your latex mold looks great! Excellent casting!
I was thinking that with the shape, and materials used, you probably wouldn't even need a mother. Then I saw where you explained that!

I don't do a lot of absorbent castings (paper-mache). So I tend to overlook the residue issue when it comes to releases.

I too, am patiently awaiting your tutorial and recipes!


Sisvicki,
Ayup! I have the "honor" of living near, and working in, Flint.
(If you've ever been there, you'll know it's a rather dubious honor)


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## Vlad (Nov 2, 2003)

Ugh. I've been set back more than a week on this project. I tried a glue/cornstarch recipe last Friday, and as of last night, the copy still isn't dry enough to remove from the mold. I could have made three or four skulls just using the flour mache mix. I believe it's the very nature of the glue itself, that keeps it from drying quickly against the latex. But from peeling back the mold a little, I can see that the finished profuct will be smoother. Tonight I'll try just a cornstarch recipe and see how that goes. I was so frustrated by the whole thing, that I made a second latex skull mold while I waited, LOL.


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## putrid (Aug 18, 2002)

Mmm...never thought about the glue needing air flow to dry. Sorry Vlad, I didn't think of that either. Perhaps it would work better to use a thick cornstarch-glue mix to coat the skull after it's pulled from the mold. The 2 to 1 recipe I use is self smoothing as long as it doesn't run or drip. ( 1 cup cornstarch 1/2 cup glue and 1/2 cup water ) 

http://home.earthlink.net/~tekvov/id2.html

The mache goup is a booger to make but it would smooth out the paper mache skull.


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## Pennywise (Oct 21, 2004)

Thought of something gonna try it out today and tomorrow. Since there was worry about using soap in the silicone mold and the soap ruining the paper mache paint, why not rince the soap out of the mold after removing from the skull? I used my Big Lots skull and there is still Silicone stuck to it. Not sure what you guys use but I went the cheap route and bought the $2 tubes of clear Silicone caulk at Wal-mart. The stuff worked great when I tested and still works fine but needs a release and more support like plaster. I applied some dish soap to a different plastic skull and the almost dry silicone peels off easily.

Here's my idea. I'm going to soap up the original, apply the silicone and let cure. Then peel off the silicone and rinse out any soap residue. Then I'm going to set the mold back onto the original and slop on some plaster to strengthen the mold.


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## Vlad (Nov 2, 2003)

Pennywise, so far so good. But to strengthen the latex/silicone mold. The best way is to imbed some cheesecloth in between the applied layers of latex/silicone. Did you make the mold all in one sitting? Ususally I apply two or three layers of latex, then I alternate between layers of pure latex and cheeseclothe soaked latex. This makes the mold stiff enough to hold it's shape without a mother mold on the outside, for everything except spray foam copies. That's because the spray foam expanding has enough force to distort the latex/silicone mold. For pics of my molds being made, go here and click on the how to's I have up under "Terror On Beechwood".>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
http://www.hauntproject.com/projdetail.asp?category=Molding/Casting

Putrid, nothing to be sorry about my friend. Experimentation is the name of the game. I was using your recipe, and I think you're correct, that an outer application of it might be the answer if needed. I was so frustrated that I pulled the skull from the mold last night anyway, and lost a little of the nasal cavity which was the only part that still hadn't dried. I've already started a cornstarch copy. More to come.


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## putrid (Aug 18, 2002)

Vlad, I'm going to pick up some silicone today. I'm going to use a tight weave netting material. Unlike the latex I don't think the silicone will soak into a cloth material. The netting is a bit stiffer and I'll have to piece it together. It should give the mold a good back bone.
Going to use the boiled mache recipe with toilet paper so I wont make the mistake I would have had you not done it first. JK LOL


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## Vlad (Nov 2, 2003)

Awesome.Let me know the results. I don't mind making the mistake first, I still got a useable skull out of it anyway. And it forced me into making another mold so I can do more than one at a time.


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## Lurks in the shadows (Mar 12, 2005)

Putrid,

If you are going to imbed reinforcement in silicone, use something with plenty of stretch to it. One of the good properties of silicone is its elasticity.
And you'll have better luck if you work the silicone into the material, messy, but you're right, it won't soak in well. A more open weave is a good choice.


Vlad,
Concerning the recipe that didn't dry... How about a thin skin/detail layer of that, and after it's dry back it up with a stronger but coarser mix?

I'm going to have to start making stuff with paper-mache...


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## Pennywise (Oct 21, 2004)

Vlad, yes I did it all in one sitting and let it dry overnight. My second attempt is going much smoother LOL. I'm so glad you guys helped as much as you have. Thank you all very much.


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## putrid (Aug 18, 2002)

Lurks in the shadows, thank for the info on material. The tight weave netting I was planning on using is like the stuff they make bridal vales out of. Plenty of flow but not much stretch. 

Vlad, glad the mistake I would have made helped you decide to make another mold. I love happy accidents. LOL

It's like the old song says,"live is what happens when you plan on doing something ells." I wasn't able to make a mold last night. Perhaps tonight.


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## Vlad (Nov 2, 2003)

Lurks....Believe it or not, but that was a thin layer I applied. I believe what happened is that the glue formed a skin layer, and because the latex was non-permeable to air infiltration, the trapped mache' was just never going to dry.

Pennywise...Glad some of this helped. As you can see, we're all learning something new all the time.

Progress note: The starch recipe without glue is drying faster than the glue included recipe, but, it still is taking much longer than the flour only recipe. The glue/starch skull is no harder than the flour only skull. Since the goal of this whole experiment was to produce lots of cheap lightweight skulls, I'm leaning more towards the flour only recipe. I wish I could remember where I got it from to give the author credit. Here it is.>>

Cooked Mache'
3 tbl. spoons of flour
1 cup water
1 tsp. salt

Heat your water and salt,slowly stir in the flour. Stir with a wisk if you have one. Cook simmering for a few minutes till it thickens, remove from heat and let cool,use.


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## Vlad (Nov 2, 2003)

Also, I forgot to mention. Something weird happened. The one that Black Cat made with the glue/starch recipe has shrunk by at least a 1/4 !!! Haven't figured out why yet.


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## Lurks in the shadows (Mar 12, 2005)

Hmmm...
I guess that blows that idea...

That was PVA type glue right? Elmer's white or similar?

Just curious...


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## putrid (Aug 18, 2002)

Are we talking a quarter of an inch or a quarter of it's size?


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## Vlad (Nov 2, 2003)

Putrid......A quarter of it's size,lol. I couldn't believe it till I saw it. I'll put some pics up tomorrow.

Lurks........I used a generic white glue, but it conforms to the same standard ( ASTM-4236 ) as Elmers. I compared them.


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## Vlad (Nov 2, 2003)

Check this out. The shrunken skull is all the way to the right. The pic doesn't do justice to how much it shrank. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
http://photobucket.com/albums/v194/TerrorOnBeechwood1/Avatars/?action=view&current=P1010001.jpg


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## putrid (Aug 18, 2002)

That is definitely smaller. How did you do that?


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## Vlad (Nov 2, 2003)

We didn't,LOL. It shrank all on it's own. That was one made with the glue/starch recipe.


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