# Stalkaround Costume



## rchassel

My son, Josh, wants a stalkaround costume this Halloween. Here's a short video of my progress so far:


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## Anji4062

Looks pretty freakin awesome to me! Love the vid btw. Highly entertaining.


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## pandora

Look fantastic! The video is toooo funny!!!


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## Screaming Demons

Funny! Good idea on the arm movement.


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## tamster

boy this stalk about really took some thought into it, awesome job! your video is quite creative. now make sure your son doesn't get into some pumpkin punch LOL


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## creeeepycathy

Awesome job!!! and Hilarious video!!!!    (I actually watched it 2x it was so funny!)


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## Guest

Wow! Can't wait to see it finished.

Nice video, and another reason to love Halloween. Thanks!


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## stickman6

That's genius with the bicycle brake cable and the hinge! Looking foward to seeing the head and hands.


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## tranzlusent

Best stalker design I've seen yet! I love how your son has a look on his face like "ok dad, I think that's enough video for now" lol. Great video!!! Can't wait to see this thing in action. The head movement will be incredible


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## prestonjjrtr

Wow that is absolutely awesome !! If you ever decide to sell one, I would love to buy it. 

Thanks for posting.


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## wAkethedeAd

Wow! Thats pretty impressive! I like...


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## znelson710

I will try this one of these years


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## beggars alley

Awesome!! If you could give a general tutorial or parts list with a diagram I'm sure MANY of us would appreciate it!


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## rchassel

Thanks so much, everyone!


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## rchassel

Stickman6: Very close! I used an R/C control rod set by Sullivan Gold-N-Rod #S514 and slipped it inside a 3/16" steel automotive brake line bent in the shape you see. The set includes the clevises. As for head and hands I'm combing Scott Stoll's site for paper mache ideas


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## rchassel

beggars alley: I'd love to make a sort of tut but I don't think I'll have time before Halloween with everything that's going on. If you or anyone wants pics or have questions about any part, I'd be more than happy to help.

The backpack frame is an army surplus Alice pack ($10 from eBay). The helmet is a Rawlings baseball helmet with the visor cut off $16.69 from Target. The framework is 1/2" pvc. The control rod for the head tilt is a Sullivan Gold-N-Rod #S514 slipped inside a 3/16" steel automotive brake line from NAPA. Most of the rest of the materials was stuff I had on hand like scrap wood and 1/16" and 1/8" aluminum flat bar.


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## ernstdesigns

Awesome movement of the head and arms.. Love the song in the background. Maybe next, you could build a flying car?


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## rchassel

Thanks, ernstdesigns! Lol, you guessed it--Chitty Chitty Bang Bang


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## kaffieen

Wow that is great! I am also building a "Stalkaround" this year. I'm really having a lot of problems coming up with a universal joint for the head. Any chance we could see close up pics and a description of how you make it. I understand the R/C parts, but I'm still not quite getting how it all goes together.

What type of creature is your son going to be? This evening I just started work enlarging the pattern for the robe I will be wearing over my stalkaround. Right now its coming out to 36ft of fabric for mine...ugh. 
Great work!

Kaffieen


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## rchassel

Thanks, kaffieen!

This project all started when my son saw Gore Galore's Wraith costume and asked if I could make one just like it. I drew up the plan in the following pic and showed it to Josh but he seemed crestfallen that it didn't look like the Wraith. I guess it will end up looking like Gore Galore's costume after all.











Here is an overview pic showing the head mechanics. The helmet is connected to the creature's head by a length of 1/4" all thread.











The all thread passes through bearings that are installed in pvc tee fittings mounted to the frame. I used a heat gun to soften the tee fittings so the bearings could be press-fit into them.











Here is a closeup pic showing the way the control rod is connected to the helmet. There are bolts that are fixed to either side of the helmet that act as pivot points. The black object is a shaft collar that grips the end of the bolt on one side. A 1/16" thick piece of aluminum flat bar is cut into the shape of arm similar to a servo horn and is attached to the shaft collar with a couple screws. The clevis of the steel cable connects to this arm.











Here is a side view of the same parts:











The control rod (Sullivan Gold-N-Rod #S514) slides neatly into a 3/16" steel automotive brake line that is bent and secured to a piece of 1/8" aluminum flat bar using pieces of thin brass made into clamps. The aluminum flat bar is bent around the top of the helmet and pivots freely on the bolts mentioned earlier. You can also see how the all thread is secured to the top of this piece using a couple of nylon lock nuts.











Here is a closeup of the head mech. It's just a couple pieces of scrap wood hinged together. The bottom piece is fixed to the all thread. You can just see the end of the brake line emerging through this piece and the Gold-N-Rod emerging through the brake line. Another scrap of 1/16" aluminum flat bar serves as an arm for the clevis to attach.











The block of wood midway down the all thread just serves as an anchor point for the brake line to give it more support:











If you need further clarifying of anything just let me know


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## kaffieen

Rob,
That is great! Thanks so much for taking the time to get photos and give this little write up! I'm really eager to try this control method out. Now I just gotta Gather parts together. I'll be sure to snap some photos once I get it together.

Thanks again!
Kaffieen


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## kaffieen

I just ordered my Gold-n-rod from Tower Hobbies, and I picked up a batting helmet the other day. Quick question, why did you use the brake line and insert the gold-n-rod thru it? It seems as though the push/pull cable is made to slide. Is the additional break line necessary? 

Thanks,
Kaffieen


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## Trinity1

F-N amazing!!! Love it! God, everyone is so talented on this site....definitely gives inspiration!


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## sumrtym

I have an idea for a stalkaround (ok, I'm taking another guy's idea lol) but want to make some improvements, with his blessing. He already e-mailed me some design / construction pics and description of what he did. There's no way I'll get it done this year but would like to build it before next year. I'm trying to make two notable improvements....one I think maybe I can work out, the other...running into a wall. Thought I'd bounce it off you since you seem so good on the mechanics. I need a design that will enable my head movement to control the movement of the head much like yours (his had static head) but....my head won't be directly under the stalkaround head. It will be in front of my head so I need a way to attach to the BACK somehow of the stalkaround head to control it.


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## DeadMeat

Let me guess, you talked to Kevin at Bald Brain too?  I'm a few weeks in to working on a modified Body Bag costume myself and decided to use head movement via cables. Right now I've got left right axis movement but am toying around with adding up down if the mask I pick doesn't cause too much stress on the rig weight-wise.

If you have any work in progress pics I would love to see em. I'll be glad to show any I have as I'm compiling pics of the process to give to Kevin as a thanks for the inspiration. 

Also, if it wasn't the Body Bag costume that sparked your idea I wouldn't mind the added inspiration for mine if you didn't mind. Looking forward to seeing it as it comes to fruition.


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## rchassel

kaffieen said:


> I just ordered my Gold-n-rod from Tower Hobbies, and I picked up a batting helmet the other day. Quick question, why did you use the brake line and insert the gold-n-rod thru it? It seems as though the push/pull cable is made to slide. Is the additional break line necessary?
> 
> Thanks,
> Kaffieen


Sorry for not getting back to you earlier, Kaffieen. I lost power when Irene came through and the current just came back on this morning. Without the brake line to hold it still the Gold-N-Rod tends to flex throughout its length and you lose some of the motion of the stalkaround's head. The steel push/pull cable slides freely in the Gold-N-Rod's yellow sheath. The yellow sheath is fixed within the brake line and doesn't move. When you get the Gold-N-Rod you'll see that it has splines running its length on the outside which affords just a bit of space between it and the brake line--enough to squirt some Super Glue between them. Capillary action will draw the glue down and keep the Gold-N-Rod's sheath in place.


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## rchassel

sumrtym said:


> I need a design that will enable my head movement to control the movement of the head much like yours (his had static head) but....my head won't be directly under the stalkaround head. It will be in front of my head so I need a way to attach to the BACK somehow of the stalkaround head to control it.


Hi, sumrtym. Maybe the nod motion can be the same as my design since the control rod can be routed any way you need it. The important considerations with R/C control rods is that their sheath ends are fixed securely in place and are immovable, bends are not too sharp and the steel cable isn't overextended past the ends of the sheath (3/4" for the one I used). You can go the extra effort like I did and encase it in a brake line so it doesn't flex when force is applied to the steel cable.

As for the head rotate motion maybe another control cable could be used. I went with tying the helmet directly to the head with the all thread because it was the simplest solution. DeadMeat mentioned he has the rotate motion worked out using cables in his Body Bag costume so maybe he'd be the one to ask  If you could sketch out your design and post it in a thread with your costume idea we could get a better idea of the costume's head placement and maybe come up with something


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## rchassel

Trinity1 said:


> F-N amazing!!! Love it! God, everyone is so talented on this site....definitely gives inspiration!


Lol, thanks, Trinity1!


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## sumrtym

DeadMeat said:


> Let me guess, you talked to Kevin at Bald Brain too?  I'm a few weeks in to working on a modified Body Bag costume myself and decided to use head movement via cables. Right now I've got left right axis movement but am toying around with adding up down if the mask I pick doesn't cause too much stress on the rig weight-wise.
> 
> If you have any work in progress pics I would love to see em. I'll be glad to show any I have as I'm compiling pics of the process to give to Kevin as a thanks for the inspiration.
> 
> Also, if it wasn't the Body Bag costume that sparked your idea I wouldn't mind the added inspiration for mine if you didn't mind. Looking forward to seeing it as it comes to fruition.


Actually, not Kevin's idea on this one, although he has an interesting take on stalkarounds. Not big on clowns, but that could be modified a lot of different ways. 

I hadn't thought about using cables for the side to side. I had thought about routing a brake cable for the up/down motion as long as I keep the cable hidden. I'll have to think about that for the side to side. I don't suppose you have a diagram for the side to side motion idea? With the design I'm contemplating, a lot is open to viewing so hiding mechanisms is important. Up and down shouldn't be a problem, as I plan on crafting the head out of papier mache. I'd like to light it as well with a spooky blob if I can create some hollowness to the eyes, perhaps mouth, depending on which direction I go (got two competing ideas for the final look / creature). I've got another idea for the hands and creating some movement there, but I'm afraid my idea may lend itself to the possibility of getting hurt if someone were to grab he stalkaround arms and bend them wrong way.

No pictures, still in planning stages. As I said, it's a project for next year not this one. As I work on this, I'll make a tutorial to post.


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## DeadMeat

I liked how Kevin did the clowns but just had a bit more of a draw to the body bag rig he made. Girlfriend HATES clowns so those were never an option to try. 

As for the head movement right now I still only have right and left. It's extremely basic at the moment. I built a pretty standard rig out of pvc but to give mobility to the head ran a PVC T and then a 1/2" right angle connector from the main spine. That gave me a 1/2" pvc post just to the left of the spine. I then took a 3/4" to 1/2" T connector and then slid it over the 1/2" pipe. that gave me a left and right swing.. kind of confusing to try and type out but I'll see what I can do to get some of my pics off the camera.

From there, I drilled a couple holes through the pvc pipe that protruded from the 1/2" section of that loose T connector (essentially, what would be the neck), ran some wire cable through (one left and one right) and secured. If you pulled on one, it would swing the head in that direction. I really need pics here..  I'll see what I can scrounge up to make this a bit easier to visualize.

As for the head itself I'm thinking of making it from a chunk of pink foam (carved into shape) then paper mache'd for some texture and paintability (is that even a word?). I have yet to find a mask that "popped" but am still keeping my eyes open once the Halloween City and the Spirit shops open up.


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## Nepboard

One of the best head mechanisms I have seen on a stalkabout. Nice job!


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## DeadMeat

I drew out some very crude sketches until can find my camera cable.

Here is the main setup of the rig. 








And here is a rough sketch of how I make the head move left and right.








With the cable (well, actually, I found that heavy duty nylon twine worked best. it had the strength as well as the ability to slide freely through the eye hooks) fed through the eye hooks at the shoulders and hand holds I was able to tie D rings to the end and make triggers. If I held the hand hold, slipped my finger through the D ring an pull up it would turn the head. Like i said, really basic but it seems to be working. I may need to modify a bit once the head is installed but for now it's a start.

Clear as mud huh?


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## sumrtym

Ah, ok, unfortunately, that idea won't work for me for left or right controls. The head will be above mine (8' tall stalkaround), but in front of my body a bit. The head will have no framework around it with just a robe hood over the head (probably....I might eliminate it and go more with him wearing a cape if I could get away with it. Thus, the side to side needs to be able to be hidden underneath his head, or attached to the back somehow where it wouldn't be seen if under a hood when turning head.


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## Screaming Demons

sumrtym said:


> Ah, ok, unfortunately, that idea won't work for me for left or right controls. The head will be above mine (8' tall stalkaround), but in front of my body a bit. The head will have no framework around it with just a robe hood over the head (probably....I might eliminate it and go more with him wearing a cape if I could get away with it. Thus, the side to side needs to be able to be hidden underneath his head, or attached to the back somehow where it wouldn't be seen if under a hood when turning head.


Have you seen the stalkarounds that Gore Galore makes? Some of them have the heads way out in front in an exaggerated hunchback style. I've always thought about making something like that, with a heavy-duty spring attached to the helmet supporting the head. The bobbing would make for a neat scary effect. With some practice I think you could figure out how to get the head to do what you want it to, for the most part.


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## sumrtym

The difficulty I think is why the original guy didn't have his head move. lol I've got plenty of time to think about this though, and need to sometime pick up a heat gun and pvc pipe cutter. If I go with a design similar to his, instead of a different direction, then I hope the rest of mine looks as good as his does.


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## TWISTEDUK

I don't no how i missed this tread. Wow!!! this is absolutely awesome !! It so well built and you video is very funny. look forward to seeing it costumed up


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## rchassel

Thanks, Nepboard and TWISTEDUK


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## rchassel

There was some confusion about the brake line I'm using. The brake line is not a bicycle's but the type used in a car that's sold at an auto parts store. It's made of steel but is designed to be bent fairly easily by hand. I took my Gold-N-Rod to a NAPA where there have a display of different-sized lines and tested the fit. I used a tubing bender that I had on hand like these:

http://www.acehardware.com/product/...&kw=bender&origkw=bender&searchId=58198396833

It's kind of like a spring that slips over a tube (3/16" brake line in this case) which allows you to bend the tube without flattening it at the bend. The bender compresses the sides and prevents them from flaring out. I recommend the use of this tool to ensure the Gold-N-Rod still slides in after the brake line is bent.

I've updated my earlier posts with this clarification


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## memphis306

great job so far.i cant wait to see the final product.one thing that sticks in my head as a potential problem is the cable. cables are great at pulling but useless at pushing.i would suggest making the head piece heavier in the back to give it a tendency to look up so the cable doesnt have to push it up.do you have a p/n and source for the bearings? seeing this thread has made me bring back my old stalkaround and im gonna borrow your bearing idea to correct some issues it had.so,thanks


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## Crunch

I shoulda never looked into this thread. I'm totally fascinated by stalkaround costumes... I'd love to build one for myself and walk around the neighbourhood some year.


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## dkelley

Very nice! I tried my hand at one two years ago. I liked the look of it (based loosely on Freakenstein) but never got good head movements. Anyway, here's some pics.


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## rchassel

Thanks! The bearings are some I had lying around that I got from American Science & Surplus several years ago. I don't see them there anymore but the outer diameter is 7/8" and the inner diameter is 3/8". Since the all thread is 1/4" diameter I cut some short lengths of 3/8" styrene tube (1/4" ID) from the hobby shop that fit perfectly within the bearings. The cable seems to work well for pushing for the time being. The important thing is to not allow the steel cable to stick out of its sheath beyond the manufacture's recommendations otherwise it will bend instead of push. Keeping the head light will be important in keeping this arrangement working but if I need to I'll add a spring to the back of the head to help counter its weight.



memphis306 said:


> great job so far.i cant wait to see the final product.one thing that sticks in my head as a potential problem is the cable. cables are great at pulling but useless at pushing.i would suggest making the head piece heavier in the back to give it a tendency to look up so the cable doesnt have to push it up.do you have a p/n and source for the bearings? seeing this thread has made me bring back my old stalkaround and im gonna borrow your bearing idea to correct some issues it had.so,thanks


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## rchassel

Your Freakenstein looks awesome, dkelley!



dkelley said:


> Very nice! I tried my hand at one two years ago. I liked the look of it (based loosely on Freakenstein) but never got good head movements. Anyway, here's some pics.


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## Uruk-Hai

Screaming Demons said:


> Have you seen the stalkarounds that Gore Galore makes? Some of them have the heads way out in front in an exaggerated hunchback style. I've always thought about making something like that, with a heavy-duty spring attached to the helmet supporting the head. The bobbing would make for a neat scary effect. With some practice I think you could figure out how to get the head to do what you want it to, for the most part.


Not sure how Gore Galore makes theirs but the bobblehead idea is what I had in mind for my stalkaround in-progress. I got a length of aluminium stock and bent it into a "S" shape so it would have some spring and bounce. My thinking was that the skull would only be attached to the hardhat and the backpack frame would support the chest, shoulders & arms. The problem I had was that even with just the bar attached the inner web support in the hardhat would flex when I moved to the point where I was afraid it would fall over. Given that this was before I had added the weight of the skull I was forced to abandon that plan and will now have a more traditional head supported by the frame and movement controlled by the hardhat.


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## DeadMeat

I love the Gore Galore stuff. Actually, the Zombie Lurker is part of the inspiration to my design. I love the head movement but couldn't swing a way to do that with all the controls at chest level and not helmet mounted. (Being that my upper body will protrude from it's back)

I can't wait till i finish this thing to get some pictures taken of the final design. It's a bit tough to explain when you start saying stalkaround and it's essentially smaller than you are


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## CRPaynton

Fantastic design and very entertaining video!

C.R.


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## memphis306

rchassel said:


> Thanks! The bearings are some I had lying around that I got from American Science & Surplus several years ago. I don't see them there anymore but the outer diameter is 7/8" and the inner diameter is 3/8". Since the all thread is 1/4" diameter I cut some short lengths of 3/8" styrene tube (1/4" ID) from the hobby shop that fit perfectly within the bearings. The cable seems to work well for pushing for the time being. The important thing is to not allow the steel cable to stick out of its sheath beyond the manufacture's recommendations otherwise it will bend instead of push. Keeping the head light will be important in keeping this arrangement working but if I need to I'll add a spring to the back of the head to help counter its weight.


are you using 1" pvc?


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## rchassel

Thanks, C.R.!



CRPaynton said:


> Fantastic design and very entertaining video!
> 
> C.R.


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## rchassel

1/2" PVC but the bearings press into the tee fittings (with the help of a heat gun  )



memphis306 said:


> are you using 1" pvc?


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## RussellSculpts

Great job. Love the head movement. Did a grim reaper like this a few years back. Wish I thought of the head movement.


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## rchassel

Thanks, RussellSculpts!


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## matthewthemanparker

Awesome job. I love the head movement on it. Are you going to build a stand for it? I made one for mine and it certainly helped when trying to measure for sewing. Also, with the stand putting on/taking off the costume can be a one man job instead of two.


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## KCMongo

Great work, stripped the frame off my old backpack last night and started cutting PVC and sticking it together. Been wanting to build one for years and your video inspired me to dig into it! Thanks!!

Matthew: Would love to see picks of yours and the stand, I've been pushing the idea of a stand around my head.

Thanks,
Steve


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## rchassel

Thanks, Matthew! I may eventually build a stand for it. You're right--it would make it a lot easier to put on the costume. When it's not being worn it can be a static prop 



matthewthemanparker said:


> Awesome job. I love the head movement on it. Are you going to build a stand for it? I made one for mine and it certainly helped when trying to measure for sewing. Also, with the stand putting on/taking off the costume can be a one man job instead of two.


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## rchassel

Thanks, Steve!



KCMongo said:


> Great work, stripped the frame off my old backpack last night and started cutting PVC and sticking it together. Been wanting to build one for years and your video inspired me to dig into it! Thanks!!
> 
> Matthew: Would love to see picks of yours and the stand, I've been pushing the idea of a stand around my head.
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve


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## matthewthemanparker

KCMongo said:


> Great work, stripped the frame off my old backpack last night and started cutting PVC and sticking it together. Been wanting to build one for years and your video inspired me to dig into it! Thanks!!
> 
> Matthew: Would love to see picks of yours and the stand, I've been pushing the idea of a stand around my head.
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve


http://www.halloweenforum.com/halloween-costume-ideas/79656-ive-started-my-stalkabout.html

That is a link to mine. After 2 years it is still a work in progress. I have a new, bigger head this year for it. I may have to change to rchassel's design for the movement because it looks so much smoother than mine. That will have to wait until next year though.



rchassel said:


> Thanks, Matthew! I may eventually build a stand for it. You're right--it would make it a lot easier to put on the costume. When it's not being worn it can be a static prop


That's what I do with mine. I have it as a static prop out in the yard the week of Halloween so people don't think it will move. (I do take it in at night though) When I'm in the costume on Halloween night I stand real still and let them walk on by and then sneak up behind them.


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## KCMongo

Matt, didn't recognize your handle, I've read your thread a bunch of times. 

Rob, Planning on working on it later this week once I pick up some more joints. Here's some pics of my progress the other night before I ran out of parts. I'm copying yours pretty close. 

Steve
"Mongo"


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## Nepboard

My son just put the finishing touches on his. He redid his hands and put on a new head from last year. The eyes have LEDs in them.


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## rchassel

KCMongo said:


> Matt, didn't recognize your handle, I've read your thread a bunch of times.


Matt, I remember your videos from when I searched YouTube for stalkarounds  Looks great!



KCMongo said:


> Rob, Planning on working on it later this week once I pick up some more joints. Here's some pics of my progress the other night before I ran out of parts. I'm copying yours pretty close.


Lookin' good, Steve!


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## rchassel

Nepboard said:


> My son just put the finishing touches on his. He redid his hands and put on a new head from last year. The eyes have LEDs in them.


Tell your son he did an awesome job!


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## matthewthemanparker

One word of advise while wearing the costumes: Learn to shuffle your feet as you walk. You will end up walking on and up the front of it if you don't.


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## matthewthemanparker

Do you have any pictures or video of the finished costume?


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## rchassel

Hi, Matthew. It was a mad rush to complete the fabric part of the costume before Halloween and I wasn't completely happy with its looks so I didn't take any pics. I've taken the costume apart to improve its cosmetics but I'll be sure to post pics here once it's complete.


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## Daytonagp4

well rchassel you have inspired another.....just read through the whole post and i'm going to start building on for next year. We have 2 or 3 diff big costumes at the big contest i go to every year. One is a guy on stilts "robot" guy. Basically black spandex and a bunch of stuff. The other is a stalkaround "pumpkin head" it's been the same costume 4 years running now. The only thing they do is change the head. None of the bigger one's heads move so that's going to be my focus. 
Thanks all of you guys for inspiring me!!! Just have to figure out what to make it after i build it!


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## matthewthemanparker

Do you have any pictures of the final costume from this year? I would love to see it.


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## Ghost Ninja

Got final costume? I would like to build a Stalkaround for the coming year ...


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## The1one1

Ghost Ninja try to get in touch with Vilessence. He is very knowledgeable and helpful when it comes to stalkabouts. There is also a stalkabout group started in the community section also started by him as well.


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## Ghost Ninja

Thanks 1one1, I'll go and do that.


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## Ken F

This is awesome, thank you for sharing such a well thought design! If you have the time, could you please tell me where I can get the bearings and shaft collar? Is it an automotive or bicycle break line that you used? Finally any pics of the final product? I can't wait to build this with my daughter and grandchildren!!!! Thanks again


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## Ken F

So I'm almost done with the frame of my stalk around costume. So far it's identical to yours , thanks for the guide. I have two more questions:
What should I do with the robe so I have a view outside of the costume and did you build a stand or some sort of storage for it? As always thanks for the help


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## DIYhaunter

This is perfect! I was wanting to build an 8 foot sasquatch costume and this will work for the internal frame. Thanks for the inspiration.


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