# Duct Tape Mummy Tutorial



## LV Scott T (Aug 14, 2007)

*Duct Tape Mummy Tutorial (continued)*

HEAD MARKER: Before we proceed, we need to go back and add one item to the upper half: a Head Marker. This will allow us to quickly, easily, and accurately add the mummy's head later without a lot of placement trial & error. So, take the wire coat hanger or scrap of copper wire and bend it to the shape of the model's head, neck, and top of shoulders (from one shoulder, over the ear, across the top of the head, across the other ear, and down to the other shoulder). Make a loop (about the size of a quarter) at each end. Using a generous amount of tape, attach the wire frame to the shoulders and neck. The wire should follow the model's scalp, not her hair.

CUT LINES & MATING MARKS: Remove the tape you used to rejoin the upper half (the 4" - 6" long temporary pieces), leaving one piece in the center of the back and one on her neck. The upper half should now be almost all opened up in back and you should see the cut line disappearing under some of the new tape. Using the pen or Sharpie, carefully continue the upper half's cut line from where it disappears all the way down to the floor. Draw your mating marks every 2 inches.

REMOVAL: Using the medical shears, CAREFULLY cut along the cut lines, remove the last 2 pieces of tape from the upper half, and remove the complete DTD. Be very careful not to change the shape of the wire Head Marker. Gently lay the DTD on it's back, with the arms crossed. Help your model crawl out to her car and send her home.

THE STAND: This part requires a little woodworking. I'm not going to go into a lot of procedural details, because if you don't know how to do what I'm explaining, you need to find someone who does and have them do it for you. Sorry I had to take that tone, but, well, you know how some people are. Anyway, lets start with the base. Go take a peek at the DTD's feet, specifically the thickness of the tape around them. Now, on the posterboard, carefully hand-draw a line just inside the traced line. The space between the 2 lines should be about the same as the thickness of the tape around the DTD's feet. Carefully, cut out the template along the INSIDE line. Trace this onto a piece of 1x12 or a 1" thick piece of plywood (or 2 or more layers of plywood glued and screwed together to make 1") and cut with a jig or scroll saw. Now fold the template in half (left to right) forming a crease down the center (between the feet). One third of the way down the crease (closer to the heels than the toes), make a small hole (with a pencil point). Place the template back on the wood, re-align, and mark the wood through the hole. Drill a 1" hole all the way through the wood, centered on the mark, then lightly sand the inside of the hole just until the 1" closet pole can be pushed through it without binding. Do NOT glue it yet.

CLOSURE: Start stuffing the DTD's hands with plastic grocery bags until the "skin" is firm to the touch. When you reach the first Mating Mark, staple it closed. Carefully line up the Mating Marks, hold the cut edges together, push the staple gun firmly against the mark, and shoot a staple across the cut. Make sure your fingers are NOT under the tape when you shoot! The staple should penetrate all the way through the tape and end up flush. It should also be centered on the cut (if not, it might pull through the tape). If it is a good shot, use the needle-nose pliers to manually fold the points down (towards the center of the staple). Folding them over is not required, but it sure reduces the number of scratches on your hands later! If the staple is not centered across the cut or doesn't penetrate one side, pull it out, throw it away, and try again. Eventually you'll get the feel for this and most of your shots will be good. Continue stuffing. When you reach the next Mating Mark, shoot and fold another staple, then go back and put a 2" x 2" piece of tape over the previous staple, closing the gap. As you go, keep testing the firmness of the skin, pushing more stuffing into any soft areas you find. Continue all the way up each arm until you reach the torso. Do NOT yet staple/tape the cut running from mid shoulder blade to mid shoulder blade.

The DTD should now be front-side-down. Temporarily place the closet pole inside the DTD, extending out through the neck and the feet. Slide the base over the pole (at the feet end) and fit it inside the feet. You might need to stretch the tape a little. If it is too snug, go do some sanding or carving. Once it fits snuggly, temporarily but securely tape it in place Continue to stuff. Crumpled up newspaper can be used in the torso/legs. Stuff all around the closet pole. As the DTD is filled, adjust the pole so it protrudes from the center of the neck opening. When the shoulder blades are firm enough, staple and tape them closed. However, put a staple every 1" along the mid shoulder blade to mid shoulder blade cuts. You'll see why later. The DTD should now have one continuous cut, down the center of the back, from neck to floor. It should also be about 90% stuffed.

FINISHING UP THE DTD: Take a standard styrofoam wig stand (preferably a "male" one since "female" ones usually tilt slightly to one side) and carefully drill out the hole in the base to 1". Try not to drill all the way through and out the top. Clean out all of the styrofoam pieces. Slide the wig stand onto the closet pole and place the neck of the wig stand in the neck opening of the DTD. Use the Head Marker wire to properly align the wig stand and temporarily but securely tape it in place. Temporarily tape the torso closed with 3 or 4 pieces of tape. Turn the DTD onto its back. Gently push the closet pole further through the base to stretch out the DTD. When satisfied with the overall appearance, mark the closet pole at the bottom of the base. Remove the closet pole, base, wig stand, and temporary tape. Cut the closet pole at the mark then glue it into the base. Set overnight. Drill (3) 1/8" pilot holes 1/2" deep into the closet pole at the top of the base (at thirds around) and at a slight downward angle. Insert (3) 1" screws 1/2" into the pilot holes. Insert the opposite end of the closet pole into the wig stand and mark the pole at the base of the wig stand. Remove and drill a 1/8" pilot hole 3/4" deep straight into the FRONT of the closet pole at the mark. Reinsert the closet pole into the DTD through the feet opening. Work it through the stuffing until it reaches the neck opening then insert a 3" screw 3/4" into the pilot hole at the wig stand mark. Replace the wig stand and base as before. Staple the feet of the DTD to the base with at least 10 staples. Permanently tape the wig stand to the DTD, covering the entire wig stand in the process. Continue stuffing, stapling, and taping until finished.

CORPSING: Corpsing the DTD firms it up, permanently seals it, and keep the duct tape from unpeeling. Mix equal parts of craft glue (non-hardening, like Ailenes) and latex paint in an appropriate container. Tear off a whole bunch of 2-ply paper towels, separate the plies, then tear them into quarters. Starting at the base, brush a little paint/glue mixture onto the DTD, stick a piece of paper towel to it, then brush over that with a little more mixture. Repeat until the entire DTD is covered with paper towels. Let it dry thoroughly.

MUMMIFICATION: Tear the fabric into 3" - 4" wide strips. Starting at the base, wrap the entire DTD, using small pieces of tape every few inches to hold the fabric in place. When you get to the head, cover under the chin and the top of the head before wrapping the rest.

Call your model, take her out for a nice dinner.


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## JustWhisper (Nov 16, 2008)

LV, those are really great instructions. The best I have seen of many. Thanks for taking the time to post that. I have a question. Why do you staple the seams shut instead of using tape?


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## LV Scott T (Aug 14, 2007)

JustWhisper said:


> LV, those are really great instructions. The best I have seen of many. Thanks for taking the time to post that. I have a question. Why do you staple the seams shut instead of using tape?


The staples with tape over them, even when the staple points are not folded over, hold the seam closed WAY better than just tape (especially in our Las Vegas sun). I know, why bother when I'm corpsing it anyway... Well, call it an extra layer of protection. As stuffed as it is, I'm not 100% sure that a separation wouldn't cause the corpsing to separate as well. With the staples in place, I could hang from that thing and it wouldn't separate.

Oh, and thanks for the kudos!


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## Guest (Apr 2, 2009)

LV, that's a great looking mummy!!


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## LV Scott T (Aug 14, 2007)

Um, I have to confess. When I made my Duct Tape Mummy, I broke the cardinal rule of Halloween Prop Building... I didn't take pictures. So, please, if any of you decide to actually follow these instructions and make your own DTM, please, Please, PLEASE take pictures from time to time. Then, with your permission (and crediting you, of course), I will incorporate them into my text for a proper tutorial. Or, you can add my text to your photos.

Also, if I missed a step (which is likely, since I typed that whole thing yesterday at one sitting, from memory, 5 months after building it), please let me know and I'll edit it into the original text.


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## JustWhisper (Nov 16, 2008)

I understand about the staples now. Thanks for clarifying, as I probably would have skipped those. And a little extra work up front is a whole lot better than rebuilding a whole prop. I think even without pictures you did such a good job of explaining it all that it is quite clear.


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## Dragonomine (Sep 28, 2008)

That's the curviest figure on a mummy I've ever seen!


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## LV Scott T (Aug 14, 2007)

Dragonomine said:


> That's the curviest figure on a mummy I've ever seen!


Hey, who says all mummies were boys?


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## Dragonomine (Sep 28, 2008)

Not me! It looks fantastic!


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## JustWhisper (Nov 16, 2008)

I'll have to make sure no one ever uses me for the model. Then they'd have a bumpy, lumpy mummy. LOL


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