# AC flicker power strip hack



## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

I finished hacking a 6 outlet power strip for creating AC flickering lights. Some may have seen the single starter flicker circuit - this uses the same starters, but mounted in a power strip so that you can get three distinct flicker effects from the strip. I'll post some pics tomorrow. It's easy to do, but does require some soldering. More to come...


----------



## TNBrad (Sep 12, 2007)

This sounds awsome, I'm looking forward to it


----------



## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

I have a PDF of the hack ready, but it's too large (257 KB) to attach here. Drop me a PM if you're interested and I can email it to you.


----------



## Bilbo (Mar 8, 2007)

Just sent you a PM Otaku... that sounds awesome!!!!


----------



## LV Scott T (Aug 14, 2007)

With Otaku's permission, here's the file:
http://www.starkmadness.com/photos/albums/_props/other users props/power_strip_hack_rev_3.pdf


----------



## Bilbo (Mar 8, 2007)

Boy, my wife is going to be proud of me!! This year combining this flicker circuit with my Lightning FX box and a relay I made from info I also found here. So my outdoor floods will flicker until the lightning flashes and they darken! 

Ok, so replace proud with frightened...


----------



## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

LOL! This is a terrific prop! Cant wait to use it for the "fires" lighting for the Pirates in the jail cell...
Way to go Otaku!!


----------



## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

Some test results:
I plugged a 50 watt floodlight into each outlet (1 flood per flasher) and the flash rate slows quite a bit. None of the starters failed, even with a 100 watt load, but at 100 watts the rate rate was quite slow - about one blink every 2-3 secs. It looks like the FS-2 starter definitely likes low wattage bulbs. I plan to test with some higher rated starters and see if the flicker rate improves. More to come...


----------



## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

Here's a short vid of the effect using FS-2 starters and low wattage (4 - 15) bulbs:


----------



## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

Looks really good!

TJ


----------



## wilbret (Oct 8, 2004)

I like this idea, but I'm trying to figure out where it would be useful. Anyone care to share some ideas?


----------



## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

Some ideas - signpost lights, cemetery column lights, hallway lights, JOL lights, walkway lights. Places where one needs a flickering light thats brighter than a hacked tea light. Use all three together to simulate a large fire.


----------



## Troy (Sep 24, 2006)

Just FYI, I tried to use 100 watt floods under my Boneyard BBQ with FS2 Flicker Circuits, I also noticed slower flicker rates & the starters failed after 2 nights or so....I then went to 50 watt colored bulbs (yellow, red & blue) and the affect was great. I don't recomend putting more than 50 watts per starter if you want the circuit to last for longer than a week or so. I have done alot of experimenting with these so I have the dope on them.


----------



## Bilbo (Mar 8, 2007)

Troy said:


> Just FYI, I tried to use 100 watt floods under my Boneyard BBQ with FS2 Flicker Circuits, I also noticed slower flicker rates & the starters failed after 2 nights or so....I then went to 50 watt colored bulbs (yellow, red & blue) and the affect was great. I don't recomend putting more than 50 watts per starter if you want the circuit to last for longer than a week or so. I have done alot of experimenting with these so I have the dope on them.



That's great information Troy. I was hoping to set up a number of yard flood lights like this but now I think I will concentrate on the accent lights as flickers. Probably safer than having my main lights go out with the lightning anyway!


----------



## LV Scott T (Aug 14, 2007)

wilbret said:


> I like this idea, but I'm trying to figure out where it would be useful. Anyone care to share some ideas?


I plan to use them in the bathrooms at our next party.


----------



## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

Troy said:


> Just FYI, I tried to use 100 watt floods under my Boneyard BBQ with FS2 Flicker Circuits, I also noticed slower flicker rates & the starters failed after 2 nights or so....I then went to 50 watt colored bulbs (yellow, red & blue) and the affect was great. I don't recomend putting more than 50 watts per starter if you want the circuit to last for longer than a week or so. I have done alot of experimenting with these so I have the dope on them.


Hey, Troy, good info - thanks! Have you tried using the FS-5 starter? I see that they're rated for higher wattage, but don't know if they'd work in this application.


----------



## Bilbo (Mar 8, 2007)

Otaku said:


> Hey, Troy, good info - thanks! Have you tried using the FS-5 starter? I see that they're rated for higher wattage, but don't know if they'd work in this application.


Sure... you ask that after I already picked up my FS-2's! Oh well, Menards didn't have sockets anyway so maybe I can exchange if the 5's work better.


----------



## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

Dont want to hijack the thread, but if you want to use floodlamps, get a color organ kit.. the kind from the 70's, that flashed colored lights to the beat of the disco songs.. these can take up to 200w lights

http://www.gibsonteched.com/G-107P.html
http://www.chaneyelectronics.com/products/color-organs/ (first 3 items)

I used these type kits for my pirate ship cannons.. plug the kit into the headphone jack, play the sound of a crackling fire, cannon battle, thunder, etc on a CD or MP3 player, plug in a floodlamp(up to 200w), the sound flickers the flood lamps.. Abt $10 for the kits, or find the schematics online, get parts from Radio Shack and build one.. The idea is the same, instead of using a starter to make the lamp flicker, the sound varies the voltage of a silicon controlled rectifier(SCR) to make the flood flicker.. 

TJ


----------



## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

Spilsbury has this little gem for cheap - 

http://www.spilsbury.com/viewProduct.cfm?itemID=OLD21513&mid=88

Of course, all the lights will flicker at the same time. But at this price, you could get 2 or 3 of them. An AC relay can be attached to the unit to increase the lamp wattage.

Troy - I did some quick tests with FS-5 starters and found that with < 20 watts the rate was very fast and there was little difference among the 3 starters. A 60 watt load was equivalent to an FS-2 with a low watt bulb. A 100 watt load still had a good blink rate with the FS-5's. Don't know about the life expectancy with that high of a load, though. Did you do any experimentation with the FS-5?


----------



## Troy (Sep 24, 2006)

Otaku said:


> Hey, Troy, good info - thanks! Have you tried using the FS-5 starter? I see that they're rated for higher wattage, but don't know if they'd work in this application.


The FS-5 works good, I've found that if you use a Flood (100 watt) the flicker is faster but the circuit still doesn't last very long....The FS-5 makes a 50 watt buld flicker very fast, almost too fast but again it depends on what your looking for. I prefer the FS-2 for the best "flicker fire" sim. I feel anyone would be pleased with either.....Another tip is not to cover the starter in electrical tape, I've found this also caused premature failures (heat?), just put them under something to keep them from getting wet. I had 14 circuits going for my yard haunt or 3 weeks and only one failed. IMO this affect can't be beat for so little investment.


----------



## Troy (Sep 24, 2006)

Otaku said:


> Spilsbury has this little gem for cheap -
> 
> http://www.spilsbury.com/viewProduct.cfm?itemID=OLD21513&mid=88
> 
> ...




Duh, I wish I would have read your post before I replied to the other...My findings are exactly as yours but as I posted in the above thread the FS-5 still has a very short life with 100 watt Floods. If your only looking for a few nights you would likely get by without having to change the starter out.


----------



## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

I've been thinking about this problem with the flicker rate/starter failure when using 100 watt loads. I'm going to try to wire a 110VAC relay into one of the outlets to allow a high wattage load. The starter would power the relay, the relay would switch power to the outlet.


----------



## Bilbo (Mar 8, 2007)

That should work, Otaku... I'm just thinking of all the clicking noises from relays in the system since I am using a relay to power the strip initially. Will be on the usually on contact and turned off during lightning strikes.


----------



## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

Good point, Bilbo. I have a couple SSR's laying around - that should solve any clicking issues.


----------



## Bilbo (Mar 8, 2007)

So that leaves me with two questions... What is an SSR, and where can I find the starter sockets??

Checked all the biggies (HD, Menards, etc) even tried the evil R.S.


----------



## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

I get mine at Orchard Supply Hardware here in CA, but they don't sell online. Try these guys:

http://www.bulbtronics.com/w/servlet/BTLocationView?storeId=10001

Search their site for "starter socket". 

Pretty sure they sell online, and they have the lowest price I've seen for the sockets. They're in Miami and Orlando, NY and Hollywood.

An SSR is a solid-state relay. It uses other methods of switching power, such as opto-transistors, triacs etc instead of an electro-mechanical switch.


----------



## Bilbo (Mar 8, 2007)

Well, I just ordered three of these http://www.bulbtronics.com/w/servlet/BTProductDetailView?storeId=10001&URL=BTOrderItemDisplayView&productDetailCallFrom=searchResult&page=&specialOrder=+&storeId=10001&searchType=QuickSearch&oldSearchType=&oldSortByNo=0&oldItemSum=0&oldCurrentShowPageNo=1&oldHowManyPages=0&oldCurrentFirstPageNo=1&topGroupId=9040&keyPart=starter+socket&onlySKU=N&currentShowPageNo=1&currentFirstPageNo=1&howManyPages=1&itemSum=3&sortByNo=0&bt_attrValue_1=LV396&bt_attrValue_2=0011563&bt_attrValue_3=&field2_1=2.07&selectedTier=1&caseQty_1=1&UR_DefaultShipAddressId=&billAddressId=0&addressId_1=&catEntryId_1=144836&sku=0011563&partNumberShow=LV396&catEntryIdForCrossRef=144836&field1_1=1&available_1=476&technology=SOCK&leadtime=10&aMover=C&MR_AllowSeePartialQty_1=n&pageStatus=&omnitureFlag=1&dayNum=2&quantity_1=1&pieceQtyOld_1=1&basePriceCurrency_1=Y&orderitemActionType=add&qOrderId=null

Thanks again Otaku, I can't wait to start hacking my strip and flicking my lights.


----------



## WILLIDEE (Sep 18, 2007)

Nice work can't wait to make one.


----------



## Crypt Keeper (Jan 31, 2008)

Hate when I'm the barer of bad news...

Using a flicker circuit to control relays is probably not going to get you very far. You'll probably end up with just a stack of burned out relays...

Relays are mainly designed for on or off purposes, to hold electrical latches and not switch repeatedly. If you do want to go this route and not be upset about your relays burning out,I'd suggest you invest in some high quality OMRON relays.($$$) Use a relay that is also rated for well over 120volts and a much higher current as the contacts on the relay terminals will be able to handle much more arcing as the circuit is turned on and off over and over and over and over and over again! 

The reasons the starters burn out when using a bulb with a higher wattage bulb is that the starter is not electrically designed to carry that much current through it. Don't forget they are designed to normally start a 18-32 Watt fluorescent tube for a split second! With all the safety built into them they are probably good for up to around 60watts. 

Why not use two 60 Watt bulbs on two starters next to each other? 

I do use this simple circuit in my haunt, like others have suggested for post lamps and other Erie effects. It creates an amazing effect! Completely random and dirt cheap to build. But I won't use more than a 40watt bulb in them as a safety precaution!

Sometimes we must take the simple road to glory!


----------



## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

Would you have the same concern if using SSRs? No moving parts. I have a couple rated at 120VAC, 30A.


----------



## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

Another way I use these is to mount a non-flickering bulb next to the flickering one. Since the flicker effect is kind of an on-off-blinking thing, it smooths out the light and makes it appear like it's dimming and brightening. It's especially effective inside a frosted globe.


----------



## Bilbo (Mar 8, 2007)

Reviving an old thread... Finally found a suitable power strip (had to hit HD since Menards, Wallmart, etc.. only had the molded plastic without separate outlets inside) and was up Friday night hacking away. Put it all back together and sure enough, I had flickering lights.

Otaku, another very helpful thread, much thanks!


----------



## bandacoot (Jul 27, 2006)

can someone point me to the pdf file? the link seems to be broken...


----------



## Bilbo (Mar 8, 2007)

Bandacoot, try PMing Otaku for it, he's really good at returning messages. If you don't have it by the time I check my computer at home, I'll try to send you the file


----------



## Guest (Aug 8, 2008)

anyway I can get a copy of this, the link above is broken. Thanks, looks like a good project.


----------



## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

Here's the link to the hack on Heresjohnny's web site:

Otaku's Powerstrip


----------



## Guest (Aug 9, 2008)

Thank you very much!


----------



## guitarist155 (Sep 25, 2007)

i have a ? why is the starter on the neutral side and not the live? i really don't like to break neutral and was wondering if there is a specific reason why its on that side


----------



## Otaku (Sep 10, 2004)

Good question - no reason, it's just the way I wired it up. When I showed it to one of my co-workers he chided me for the same thing. I'm left-handed, so that may have had something to do with it LOL!


----------



## bandacoot (Jul 27, 2006)

So would it be better to wire them in on the positive side?


----------



## guitarist155 (Sep 25, 2007)

i would say yes, the neutral ties to ground back at the box so if you have a fault somewhere along the line with the ground the neutral can double as ground. also as a side note you should never switch neutral as hot to ground is still an active circuit so if someone didn't flip the breaker and just used the switch it would appear to be off but would still have a hot line and could injure them


----------



## The Real Joker (Sep 8, 2008)

Link does not work for PDF file


----------



## Bilbo (Mar 8, 2007)

Joker, use the link Otaku's Powerstrip for the tutorial. The PDF file link is bupkiss!


----------



## rebelxwing (Oct 7, 2008)

Looks like this is a great hack, I'll have to try it for my pirate haunt this year (possibly driving some dock lights, grave digger lanterns, etc.) could be fun...


----------



## 7designs (Sep 20, 2009)

LV Scott T said:


> With Otaku's permission, here's the file:
> Powered by: Doteasy - Bannerless Free Web Hosting and Email for Small Business and Individual[/url]


Bad link, Any one have the file?


----------



## Pumpkin Butcher (Jul 27, 2009)

7designs said:


> Bad link, Any one have the file?


Here ya go bro......
http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutor...installation-fluorescent-starter-sockets.html


----------



## ItalianGreek420 (Jan 3, 2021)

Otaku said:


> I have a PDF of the hack ready, but it's too large (257 KB) to attach here. Drop me a PM if you're interested and I can email it to you.


Email it to me please at [email protected]


----------



## bobby2003 (Oct 5, 2017)

ItalianGreek420 said:


> Email it to me please at [email protected]


The search function works as well.









Hack a Power Strip for Installation of Fluorescent...


This is a rebuild of the PDF "Hacking a Boris Skull..." originally posted on the Heresjohnny's site. How to Hack a Power Strip for Installation of Fluorescent Starter Sockets: CAUTION: This hack involves altering an AC power strip. If you are not comfortable with working with AC circuits...




www.halloweenforum.com


----------

