# Gothicy Gate Post W.I.P



## FarmerChad (Oct 21, 2008)

Keep adding those blocks...

















Now the final (4th) sheet of particle board will have to be assembled a bit before final assembly. Cause other wise you would need arms 40 inches long to reach inside to get to where the middle blocks go. Just predrill, then mount the blocks flush with the edge, then plop it on top, align it, and screw it together. 
























Its a rectangular box!










A close up of the overlap joints... The great part about this technique is speed. No need to miter, and you still end up with a box that is square. 










Just a mock up of the corner details. Im still playing with these. Just some scraps that I had laying around. 
















All thoughts, ideas, etc are welcome. Still got plenty of work to do.


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## killerhaunts (Jan 6, 2010)

Looks great! I can't wait to see more!


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## GhoulishCop (Oct 18, 2008)

FarmerChad,

These look like they're off to a good start, but man, I hope you're going to put spar varnish on this, particularly the end "grain." As I'm sure you know (considering your comment about how you normally wouldn't use particle board for anything), particle board soaks up water like a sponge...and swells like one when wet. I'd hate to see all those nice straight, crisp lines go astray on you.

With a sealer and paint, though, (and maybe another coat of sealer on the outside), it should be protected from the weather. Looking forward to seeing the completed project, and then getting progress reports after they've been through some nasty Fall weather!

Good luck.

Rich


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## FarmerChad (Oct 21, 2008)

Thanks yall for the compliments. Yeah, the fact that particle soaks up water does have me concerned. Im confident though I can seal it. I originally thought about putting wax on the "end grain" but figured paint wont stick to that. Then I thought about drywall mud. That might crack. Im thinking about several very thin layers of primer. Very fine layers, just enough to mist the area. Should dry pretty fast that way so it doesnt have a chance to soak in and swell. Texture it, then do the same thing with some exterior paint, then heavily coat with poly or varnish. Guess we will have to wait and see.




GhoulishCop said:


> FarmerChad,
> 
> These look like they're off to a good start, but man, I hope you're going to put spar varnish on this, particularly the end "grain." As I'm sure you know (considering your comment about how you normally wouldn't use particle board for anything), particle board soaks up water like a sponge...and swells like one when wet. I'd hate to see all those nice straight, crisp lines go astray on you.
> 
> ...


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## FarmerChad (Oct 21, 2008)

As an update to "how to seal the edges".. I looked around on the interweb and ran across an article about using a wood preservative. Something like "Thompsons Water Seal". Evidently some varieties are paintable and hold up quite well. This may be the solution.


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## GhoulishCop (Oct 18, 2008)

FarmerChad,

Monster Mud is an option as might be paintable caulk sealer, like the kind you'd put around windows and doors. With the MM option you'd be able to hide the butt joints and you could also texture the surface. While epoxy is typically recommended for particle board end grain, that's a rather pricey option for the size project you have there. 

As an experiment, I took ceiling tile which is even more absorbent than particle board and applied several coatings on it. On one piece I started with spar varnish, covered that with MM, then paint, and finished with a deck sealer. On the other, I went straight to MM, then paint, and then sealer. After they were dry I threw them in a bucket of water and let them sit for a few hours. There was no damage whatsoever with either piece.










Well, that's not exactly correct. While painting and allowing them to dry, I had stood them up using toothpicks punched in the bottom and then placed on Styrofoam to hold them up. One of the pieces the holes were covered in the final coating; the other was left open. While immediately around the open holes it did get a little spongey to the touch the integrity of the whole piece was not compromised. Again, they were left in water for several hours (4, I think).

So a regular sealer in combination with Monster Mud and paint (along with a decker sealer -- I use the cheapest one I can find) ought to offer sufficient protection for your project. Whichever way you go though, again good luck.


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## GhoulishCop (Oct 18, 2008)

FWIW, I use Thompson's on all my outdoor projects as a final sealer. It also has the benefit of being the cheapest one I could find, about $8 a gallon at Home Depot and/or Lowe's. Since it's so thin it goes a long way. I originally bought two gallons when I was building my first prop last year and I still haven't used up one gallon yet despite having put the deck sealer on everything (including those ceiling tiles above).

Cheers,
Rich


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## FarmerChad (Oct 21, 2008)

Monster Mud.... hmmm.... never thought about that. Food for thought. Could spread caulking along the "grain" ends, then coat with the mud. Then paint, and preserve. 

The plot thickens.


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## FarmerChad (Oct 21, 2008)

So, just got back from some errands and decided I need to get something done in regards to this pickle im in. I decided to go the caulking route. I had a tube of all purpose caulk and adhesive. DAP brand I beleive. Paintable when dry. I simply put a thick bead on the outside edge, then smeared it all around with my fingers. I completed two sides. 

I think the edges are where I really need to concentrate my "water-proofing" efforts. Seems to me, if anywhere, this is where water would get in. I suppose time will tell. I will get some pictures up later this evening. Also, hopefully I will start to work on the flared base. I think at that point, the post will really start taking on some life of its own.


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## FarmerChad (Oct 21, 2008)

Some updates..

Here is the caulking applied to the edges. As stated, I just smeared it about. 










I did get a good start on the base. Originally all the corners were to be mitered, but I decided that my sander could just round the edges, give a more man made look. Once again, I just used simple butt joints to complete the task. I used 2x6's to make the base.

Started by cutting 2, 2x6's to the width of the post. A generous bead of glue, and some screws.










Clamp the wood down really good.










This first row of the base is predrilled and screwed thru from the inside of the post. Otherwise the 2x6 would probably just rip out of the particle board.










Flip and repeat.










The next 2, 2x6's are cut to the width of the outside edge. Otherwise, same procedure.

















Completed first row.










Moving on to the next row. Same basic procedure.










The completed base.


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## FarmerChad (Oct 21, 2008)

For now, the post is upside down. I dont want any stress on the joints until the glue dries. I took advantage of this and applied more caulking, this time to the inside of the base. It aint pretty, but it does the job.


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## 4ToUov (Jul 20, 2010)

That's 1 solid base!!

Great job.


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## FarmerChad (Oct 21, 2008)

4ToUov said:


> That's 1 solid base!!
> 
> Great job.


Thank you, I dont intend for these babies to fall apart anytime soon.

On a side note, I havent had a chance to work on this project anymore, do to other obligations, but I had an evil thought.

These posts are hollow! Imagine the stuff you could hide in one of these suckers!

You know, like some prickish teen comments about the "lameness" of the haunt, then at the right moment, hit a button, and out of the top springs a head, or gawd knows what. ha ha hahahaha mooohaaaaa

Will have to keep this in mind for the future.


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## FarmerChad (Oct 21, 2008)

*Finally some progress..*

Pretty much, this is where I left off. As you can see, the base really adds size and dimension, and weight to the post.










Time to start working on the "cap". I decided that it needed to over hang a bit, just to add some character. I used some 1.5 inch pine to to the job. Miter all corners, added plenty of glue, clamped, and shot a bunch of brads in. 










All pieces attached, while the glue is setting, time to work on the sloping pieces.










Lets talk about sloping pieces.... just for a refresher, here was the original idea:










Let me start by saying, it took 2, i repeat 2 frustrating days, off and on, to figure out how tall, how steep, and what to make the slopes out of. At first I started with particle board. Because of cost. I bought 2 sheets, knowing I would probably mess up a piece or two. "Mess up" is an understatement. 

I was going to take some pics, of the pile of cutoffs from the particle board, I got side tracked though. Lets just say $5 of research! The first panels were 12 inches tall, sloped 17 degrees, and met at the corners at 45 degrees. If you dont get all that, dont worry, even master carpenters can get messed up with compound angles. It looked "ok". Except my wife pointed out that the post, with that cap, looked... well, to keep things clean, it looked "manly" if you catch my drift. Ok, on to version 2. V2's cap was shorter, I think 7 inches, and sloped in at 30 degrees with a 45 degree miter. I sloped it further to reduce its "pointy-ness". It looked like crap. Im not sure why, the corners didn't even consider meeting each other, and by this point the particle was chipping. Failure of the cap so to speak.

Finally, version 3. SUCCESS. I bought some 3 inch pine. I decided to treat it like crown molding. I simply cut all angles at 45 degrees. Period. The picture gives you a far better idea. I made a master piece to set my miter saw to. And used it several times while cutting the 4 "production" pieces. Its hard cutting wood to work in a 3 dimensional world.










Once again, lots of glue and brads.










The top is simply 3 inch pine, glued and nailed down..

















Not shown in the picture, but all corners have been caulked. This baby should hit the sander tomorrow.


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## FarmerChad (Oct 21, 2008)

Ok, got a bunch more done today. The main goal was sanding and getting this item ready for the paint'n booth. Not that I have a booth..  I decided that instead of doing all those sharp corners, to do soft rounded corners. I know, I know... Let me explain. I decided that I want this post to match more closely the actual architecture of my home. I want it to look like it could actually exist in the space. Not just some element that is there to add some creepiness. So..... 

I decided that the best first step was to do some shaping. I used both an angle grinder, with a sanding disk, and a random orbital sander. Let me say this, if you need to remove a quantity of wood quickly, the angle grinder is the way to go. Even with a 120 grit sanding disk, wood was practically disappearing before my eyes. Its best to practice on some scraps until you get a feel for how the angle grinder sands. The R.O.S. sander on the other hand did the nice detail work.

















Some sharp edges to soften










After










The cap getting the same treatment

















Now were getting closer. It needs something. I decided not to go with the corner details. Something about them I didn't like. Cant put my finger on it...










Ahhh... banding around the lower half. I wont go into all the details. If you have been following along you know that Im a fan of glue and the brad nailer.










Final sanded product. I had to remove all the screws, and counter sink them. I figured that no matter how many coats of paint I applied, they would show through. I filled the dimple and all remaining cracks, crevices, wood knots, etc. with more caulking. Then hit it with the R.O.S. sander. I think it looks fairly decent. Tomorrow, my plan is to prime and paint.


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## dirtTroll (Sep 15, 2009)

Looks awesome... I gotta know one thing.... How much that thing weigh????


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## FarmerChad (Oct 21, 2008)

dirtTroll said:


> Looks awesome... I gotta know one thing.... How much that thing weigh????


Thanks, and too much  Probably around 40 lbs.


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## PlainfieldDan (Aug 12, 2008)

They look fantastic. I can't wait to see them finished.


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## FarmerChad (Oct 21, 2008)

I really appreciate the positive comments. I feel like the gate post is really coming along. 

Meanwhile, back at the Bat Cave...

I did get 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of "make it stone" valspar paint on the post. Unfortunately, do to a migraine this afternoon, which hasn't stopped until just a little while ago, I havent put the 3rd coat of paint on. So.. no decent pics to share. Hopefully tomorrow the 3rd and final coat will go on. I will try to get some more pics up by tomorrow evening. 

I did decide on Spar Varnish as the sealer. I know in the beginning this was up for debate. I read all the labels, and am confident that varnish IS the way to go... if its good enough for boats, it ought to work for me. I have never used varnish, always used poly, so this should be interesting. 

I decided on a "topper" for the cap. At first I was going to use a finial, this is a rather crummy pic, but you get the idea. I found these at Hobby Lobby for $6 each. I will find some use for them eventually.










Then my wife pointed out that it wasn't creepy enough. We like creepy, not blood and guts... so, I thought about a gargoyle. I happen to have 1. But I have only the 1, and if I make more of these post, thats a serious problem. So.... I waited for inspiration. Then.. it came. I was trying to get to sleep the other night, and I had a vision. I dont want to "release" all the details, but lets just say it involves "monstermud"! 

Even if I only get this one post built this year, its going to look sweet parked in front of the house. I figure this prototype will benefit everyone in the sense of how to preserve particle board for outdoor use. I would hate to build several only to have an epic failure!

Will keep yall posted as this winds down.


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## FarmerChad (Oct 21, 2008)

*Back on task..*

Well... this item is nearly done. Except for a few details. 

Just a pic of the first coat of primer. For this post, you should count on at least 2 cans of primer. If you look closely, you can see dimples from where I countersunk the screws. I went back and filled those in with wood filler.










I used Valspar Stone paint. For those keeping track at home, the specific color is "ancient ruins", and it took 4 cans. At $9 each.. ouch. I have the post out back by my garden for the painting. Kinda like the look of it out by the corn stalks and such. Something fun about that. And yes, thats my lawn sloping, not poor craftsmanship 




























A nice closeup of the color and texture.










As you notice, its kinda plain. As I mentioned in my previous post, a topper was in the works..... Well, its done. I now present.....

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Mini Monster Mud Reaper!










I love the little guy, just perched up on the gate post. Spreading his creepy goodness for all to see. I deliberately left the skull and hand visible. Just thought it added to it. I decided that his base should look kinda like he is standing on some steps. Think flagstone steps. I decided to not document this feature.. cause there are plenty of threads on monster mud here.

















For those who work with monster mud regularly, I now understand the appeal. There is just something about it. I plan to add a lantern to his hand.. and yes it will light up. Im thinking some moss up the sides.... who knows whats next for this easily adaptable item. Im thinking this will probably be the only one I get built this year, but thats ok. Im so happy with it right now. Just got to get about a dozen coats of varnish on it!

All thoughts and comments are welcome.


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## kjkjkj (Sep 3, 2010)

Wow, that looks amazing! I can't wait to see more.


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## Veckah (Apr 5, 2010)

I'm loving Mini Monster Mud Reaper (MMMR). The pillar is well thought out and executed. All around a good piece.


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## FarmerChad (Oct 21, 2008)

Thank you for the kind words. I appreciate it. 

I havent had a chance this weekend to varnish the gate post. We have been working non stop, trying to finish up the siding on the house... so, im beat! Were almost there. 

Hopefully this week coming I will varnish the gate post, build the lantern, and add some moss. At least I can standback at this point and see a sibilance of a finished product!


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## dionicia (Nov 5, 2006)

That looks really good. Great job.


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## crazy xmas (Dec 30, 2008)

Looks awesome great work!!!


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## Crunch (Oct 23, 2008)

Digging the MMMR. Not a fan of the colour though. Sand color doesn't really say HALLOWEEN to me, ya know? But to each their own, just so long as you enjoy it, that's what matters


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## FarmerChad (Oct 21, 2008)

Crunch said:


> Digging the MMMR. Not a fan of the colour though. Sand color doesn't really say HALLOWEEN to me, ya know? But to each their own, just so long as you enjoy it, that's what matters


Thank you for your input. This may surprise you, but I agree to a point. When I was actually putting the nose to the grind stone, so to speak, I had a major epiphany.

1. Make a super creepy, sharp angled, gothic, "gate way to hell", type of post.
2. Make a spooky, but some how realistic post that might actually be found in front of my home, considering the architecture of my home.

I leaned for number 2, obviously. I think letting the imagination get away from itself is far scarier then anything anyone can build. Nothing about the post says "boo". Instead, it sets quietly. Waiting, watching. Thats the type of stuff that I like, yet gives me the chills.

The color was picked to more or less, go along with our new siding, and some actual stone work that I did in the spring on the side of our porch. I haven't applied any varnish, as of yet, so I still have some options.

I am currently making a name plaque to go on the front. I also, just today, at Hobby Lobby found some nice realistic vine and moss products. I do plan to possibly distress some of the color. 

All in all, bunch more work to go. I really do appreciate every bodies input and kind words. It makes the project worthwhile.


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## dixie (Jan 30, 2009)

I think it is great, and depending on what color lights you use in your haunt, the "sand" color will absorb more of the light, and show a true color, which (in my opinion) is much creepier at night than a darker stone/mortar combination.


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## Crunch (Oct 23, 2008)

Sounds good. Again to each their own and if it works for you, even better


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## klue (Sep 25, 2008)

THAT is a gorgeous looking gate post, very nice tutorial also. Thanks for sharing this!


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## lisa48317 (Jul 23, 2010)

That is an awesome piece! I personally love that you made it to match your house. I applaud your workmanship! It's beautiful.


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## FarmerChad (Oct 21, 2008)

Once again, I appreciate everyones comments. I haven't had a chance to do much more. Still working on a plaque to go on the front. Stuff like that. I will post some pics as soon as some actual work gets done.


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## FarmerChad (Oct 21, 2008)

Well, after plenty of delays, and a few headaches, I have an update. I just know yall have been chompin at the bit, just kidding.

Originally I wanted some sort of plaque to go on the front of the post. I looked, I searched. I ended up with a couple of plaster prototypes, but nothing that I felt too good about. Wasn't sure what to do with it really. In the end I decided to go outside the box and use my address numbers. I know, I know.. but everyone seems to use a name, I decided my address would work just fine. Simplicity at its finest I guess. 

I purchased some wooden numbers from the craft store, painted with a mixture of colors. I raided my wifes craft totes and found, black, bronze, red, green, etc. I used a little bit of each and just built up the layers. After they were all nice and pretty, I used my brad nailer to start nailing them on. HUGE MISTAKE!!! I started with the number 3, the first nail went in and a piece of wood went flying past my head! These numbers were not made for nailing, evidently. After some more damage was inflicted, I decided to go the hot glue route. Much better success. All of this wasn't in vein though. My wife pointed out that the broken damaged numbers look more realistic that way. So it was left that way.

I aged the post and with some black wash, then coated the post with Spar Varnish. I was totally shocked to be honest with the result. As far as I am concerned, you can't get much closer to age, stained, nasty ol' concrete then this post. If you recall, I used a sandstone sort of color. Well, after aging with black, it was still sandstone in color, then the varnish sort of "melted" the black wash, smeared all around then WHAMO... a truly lovely result. 

Please do share your comments. I only have a couple small details left, then I am DONE! Enjoy the pics.


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## Crunch (Oct 23, 2008)

Wow, you know I didn't really like the sandstone colour, but with the black in there now, looks great.


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## FarmerChad (Oct 21, 2008)

Crunch said:


> Wow, you know I didn't really like the sandstone colour, but with the black in there now, looks great.


I was thinking of you as I wrote that post.. haha. Honestly, I had no idea that would happen. To be honest, the sandstone color was still there after using the black, it was just aged looking. The varnish is what really did it. I dont know why, or how. I do know one thing, I love it.


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## Crunch (Oct 23, 2008)

Haha, well again, whatever floats your boat. If you like, who gives. Happy it turned out and somehow pleased both of us


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## FarmerChad (Oct 21, 2008)

*Update!!*

Its been sometime since I have been on here... projects, parties, etc.... So anyways, an update. 

For any and all that is interested in how my gate post held up, this might surprise you! If you recall, the biggest concern was the durability of my chosen building material. Remember that the majority of the post was particle board, and of course the reaper/topper was monster mud. After several ideas were thrown about, caulking was applied to all joints. Then, 2 coats of varnish was applied. I didn't really expect the following outcome. 

It held up(mostly)! The post set out in the front yard for the entire month of October. Wind, rain, people walking by touching it, etc. It did get several compliments. We had lots of temperature swings... but it held up quite well.

The ONLY damage was around the top sloped corners. Do to the crazy weather, a small crack developed at each corner. Not a big deal in my opinion. Amazingly, the monster mud reaper shows NO sign of damage.

So remember, you CAN use particle board outdoors. You just have to coat it thoroughly and seal the seams.


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## stick (Apr 2, 2009)

Just saw this post and I wanted to say that it looks great I love the monster mud reaper on top.
Great Job


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## Nepboard (Sep 21, 2009)

Very nice.


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## Mr. Moundshroud (Nov 1, 2010)

The column looks fantastic! As for the quest for a plaque to place on the front, I'm actually glad that you didn't find one. I mean c'mon, how many people could put those numbers on a column as an actual address, and not just a Halloween gimmick. Everyone on the forum should DEFINITELY be able to appreciate the numbers 13 & 31 incorporated into a prop. Especially when the prop is so well-executed. Keep up the great work!


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## FarmerChad (Oct 21, 2008)

Thanks everybody for the compliments. It was a bit or work.. not too much though.

I do plan to build another post just like this one. Then build 2 more that will be taller with an arched center. A fence will go between. I haven't thought much about this project do to getting burned out. I have a tendency to become totally immersed in something then.. crash and burn. I think if I pace my project out ill be ok. 

My plan is also to modify the top so the topper is removable or exchangeable. Some damage may occur to the mini monster mud reaper, but its for the greater good.  Since I know that this item is able to withstand 1 month outdoors, my goal for 2011 will be a 3 month trial! Let me explain. Last night as I was trying to get to sleep, I was conjuring up some plans. Since I really do want to add more gate posts, its a shame for them to only be seen for the month of October. Since Halloween is SO close to Christmas why not decorate the post for Christmas? My plan is to set up the 1st of October 2011, celebrate Halloween as usual, then come November 1st, start the changeover to Christmas. 

Its not uncommon around my neighborhood to see hints of Christmas popping up in November. You might see a Christmas wreath, or some green garland here and there. So my idea is to leave the gate posts and fence up and simply convert to Thanksgiving and then Christmas.. HAHAHAHA.. I will conquer all 3 Holidays at once! 

My real inspiration for this is the comments I have had from the community. On TOT night, I had several including one parent who said something about us always decorating so nicely, especially around Christmas. Not to mention I even had some compliments about my decorating from City Hall and the Mayor himself. This year I really feel like im disappointing the audience do to NO plans for Christmas decorations. So I guess I need to step up my game and make 2011 memorable!

I will update as usual.


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## Frankenfrog (Oct 19, 2010)

Hard to go wrong with multipurpose props. Really looks great. How about exchanging the reaper for an angel for Xmas....but you probably already thought of that


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## FarmerChad (Oct 21, 2008)

Frankenfrog said:


> Hard to go wrong with multipurpose props. Really looks great. How about exchanging the reaper for an angel for Xmas....but you probably already thought of that


Honestly, I have been scratching my noggin as to what to put on the gate post. An angel is a good idea. I like that, its symbolic, and its what you make of it. Matter of fact, the angel is opposite of the reaper, I love it! THANK YOU...

Now, should she have the stone finish... ooooh.. I have this vision of wings spread out, some sort of graceful pose. Got to get crack'n on this one.


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## Guest (Nov 30, 2010)

WOW!!! LOVE your columns!!!! You are talented!!! And Fantastic color!!! 
enjoyed reading your tutorial... you are too funny!!


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## Hoodoo_Hermit (Nov 4, 2009)

That thing is outstanding. It really is top-quality! Not to beat a dead horse but the mini-reaper...wow


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## deoblo (Apr 9, 2010)

man that is sweet im going try something like that ...... def not as good as yours.........


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## JohnnyAppleseed (Sep 17, 2008)

As a fellow builder of columns and lover of cemeteries, your rendition of the entrance column is well executed and, well, ........ it kicks butt! The addition of the reaper and a second column featuring an angel to counter and blance will be perfect in my opinion. I'm still interested to see how the board holds up in wet weather. Did you seal the interior as well (in case of seepage or leaks)?


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## beggars alley (May 4, 2008)

I would like to point out that i have used particle board shelving to build several times and if it is treated (painted or sealed) properly it will withstand the elements.
My favorite coffin that I built in 2004 is still in great shape and built from mdf and particle board. It is painted with exterior grade black paint and has only been touched up once. By touched up I mean repainted completely on the outside but still it sits outside the entire month of Oct in rain and snow and still is fairly sound with no water damage or swelling. 

I really like the pillar farmerchad and am sure that by the time it gets weather damaged you will want to change themes or be tired of it and have a new idea to try anyway. I have built 2 sets of pillars in the past 10yrs and have sold the ones I replaced which are still in use as of last year. They were not made of weather friendly materials either but well prepped for my enviornment so they will last for a long time I am sure.


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## Gym Whourlfeld (Jan 22, 2003)

*As I was watching this post..*

I was thinking'Oh, No!" all the work and effort and expense yet he put particle board on the inside!
But then you did the extra work to basically water-proof it very well! Yeah!
When I build wooden things here I try to use treated lumber because it might get wet someday. I guess maybe I just hate doing things over again? I have seen so many of my creations fall apart in just the last few years.....
Then the State decreed no more oil based paint! what? First the paint manufacturers removed the linseed oil which made the paint fade in a short time when applied outdoors to metal objects but now? I drive to Wisconsin to buy paint? Iowa is closer.
Of course the enterprising paint store has a solution: $50.oo a gallon epoxy 2-part paint (developed by NASA?) There won't be much of a "pallet" anymore in my yard at that price.
Which color should everything be now? Orange? Lime green?
"GGRRR!"


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