# Home Built/ Amatuer Dark Ride



## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

So, I don't have a garage to build in - but I do have an older wood building to build in. (I'll picture it later.) Pictured below is my early concept of the building frame and an extra porch that I just finished building to give a "loading/unloading area." This way I can dedicate more square footage for the dark inside.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Another view of the building - Top View. The Cart frame can be seen resting on the "porch" that will be the loading/unloading dock.


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## Trex (Nov 6, 2010)

Wow plan looks great, ambitious project !! I love dark rides, I am going to enjoy following your progress!


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

I hope “SedgewickHotel” doesn’t mind but after studying other people’s designs I came back to this design. I think it is the best, simplest and most compact. Here is the frame I am about to have welded together. 
As a side note, I have access to laser cutting and other fabrication processes. However, everything that I build can be accomplished a lot simpler. I'm just making it pretty as I go because this is my daily job. I am a 6 year 3D Mechanical Design Engineer with 6 years experience - and I work in the Nuclear side of things in 3 different countries. Hey, avid Halloween fans come in all shapes and sizes!















I wish “SedgewickHotel” would stop by. I'm wondering if the drive wheels ever bind up in the turns? According to the drawings it will. However, I don't know if it will take up the slack or lack of through the frame. . .


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## ooojen (Sep 4, 2014)

It should be fascinating to watch this project develop.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

For anybody that is interested. I have the track designed and actually already laser cut the parts. They are sitting on my back porch waiting to be welded together. Unfortunately, it will probably be a couple of weeks before I get to them because of Christmas and New Years. I'm still debating on whether or not to energize the track. I like the idea of getting rid of the batteries to drive the car and it would make it easier to control the car from a control panel, at least in my head.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Track sections are modular.
The tracks are made of all 1/4" mild carbon steel. Laser cut and for the turns where rolled to a 24" radius. 
The floor mounts on both the straight sections and the turns have holes in them for concrete anchors and wood screw. Just incase I move to my driveway (concrete) next year. 
Each straight section is 4 foot and the turns are 2 foot sections.


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## TheHalloweenGuru (Sep 17, 2015)

Amateur? Dude, you're building a amusement park ride for your haunt


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Here are the lasered track parts. All but the rolled curves.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Here is the spoken of building I plan to build in. Please forgive the mess thrown around it. I started throwing things out of it in order to rip the front wall down to build the new porch on it. In the picture you can see the 2X4's have been moved to allow for 2 big doors on either side of the porch that will allow the cart to enter and exit the building. It looks small and it is. However, I can do it. It is a 12' x 16'? building with an additional 5' x 12' porch that will act as an loading/unloading dock.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Cart Frame coming together.


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## annamarykahn (Oct 4, 2009)

this is going to be so kewl!

i need to teach myself how to weld

in fact, several months ago i purchased a flux wire welder from harbor freight  ... but the current project on top of the list is a "floor" up in the attic so that stuff can be stored there easier ... our "collection" is getting to the point where storage is becoming an "issue" ... eventually i want to get an outdoor storage shed ... ok, i'm way off topic ... didn't mean to hijack this thread ... :-( so i'll stop now

haunted engineer, keep us updated ... we want a ton of pics 

amk


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Here is the finished Cart Frame! To bad I don't have any Jazzy/Pride WheelChair Motors to bolt to it yet. . .


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## SavageEye (Aug 30, 2010)

Keeping an eye on this one! Nice work. I have seen others attempt this project however I don't think I have ever seen a finished product. Your design looks basic and it appears you are on your way! Good luck!


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Here are a few of the straight sections. All straight track is done, . . . check.


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## midnight87 (Feb 12, 2013)

This looks and sounds amazing! Can't wait to see the finished product!


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## ChrisW (Sep 19, 2006)

"I love hard work...I can watch it all day!"

Keep us posted, this is pretty amazing.


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## Attic Hatch (Sep 12, 2015)

Awesome - Awesome - *Awesome!* The man has a plan! Any thoughts on the graphics? 
For me the graphics are more fun than the actual ride at most carnivals (not implying this will be the case for you).


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

My head is spinning with ideas! I was actually hoping for some help and inspiration.

There are so many routes I could take like: whimsical (Disneys Haunted Mansion type) or straight up, scare the pants off anyone who enters! 

There's a old school Freddy Krueger theme, "All Horror movie Doll's theme (Chucky, Billy, etc.) , Demented Circus/Clowns. I don't know. 
Ideas are welcomed.

One thing about the theme is, I need be able to replicate it was ease. . .


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## Attic Hatch (Sep 12, 2015)

Do you have ideas for your scares?
The Facade could reflect those scares. 
Personally I LOVE the garish exaggerated mediocre airbrushed facades that oversell the scares in the ride.
This blog page has some nice varied examples of darkride facades in that tradition:
*EDIT - apparently an inappropriate name within the link I put here - so link is deleted. 
I did not realize that there was zero tolerance for any swear words - even within a link - lesson learned.*

A couple of images from that page . . .
*EDIT - These images were in the blocked link above so they're not visible.*
View attachment 271210

View attachment 271212


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

For whoever is following this - the 90 degree turn sections are complete. I can now check off the track as it is now finished!!


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## coasterbp (Aug 25, 2009)

Nice job! What's the radius on your turns and have you taken your cart through the turn yet? Does it bind up on the turn?

-=CoasterBP


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

The radius of the turns are 24".


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

So I had to rip off the front of my ole' building because I needed to restructure the front from a single door to two big doors for the cart to enter and exit. Over the weekend I pretty much finished it, with the exception of the doors. I'm still not sure what I'm going to do about the doors because truly there isn't enough room for them to swing either way.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

I also received my motors and wheels so I did a really quick dry fit of the motor mounts and motors. Just pushing the cart into a turn confirmed my fear of the drive wheels binding in the turns. I will have to re-do at least one of the motor mounts to swing under tension. Maybe I can get to it in the next couple of weeks.


View attachment 271994


View attachment 271995


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

(Dry fit pushing the cart frame thru a turn)


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## Attic Hatch (Sep 12, 2015)

*I am loving what you're doing!
- Cannot see the attachments on this post.*
!


Haunted Engineer said:


> I also received my motors and wheels so I did a really quick dry fit of the motor mounts and motors. Just pushing the cart into a turn confirmed my fear of the drive wheels binding in the turns. I will have to re-do at least one of the motor mounts to swing under tension. Maybe I can get to it in the next couple of weeks.
> 
> 
> View attachment 271994
> ...


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## SedgewickHotel (Nov 3, 2014)

Wow, wow, wow... I am absolutely giddy with excitement that someone else is trying this as well! I worked so hard on mine up until Halloween, that I ran out of steam and took a hiatus for the holidays. I just started working on mine again this week.

I see you found out the hard way about the binding. Sorry I wasn't around to answer your questions.

Am I correct in assuming that it's not the drive wheels binding, but rather the front guide wheels? I'd be surprised if you took the guide wheels off, and the motors still were binding around the corners. That said, stranger things ended up surprising me as I began my trial and error phase. It was a nightmare trying to figure out the perfect placement of the motors and guide wheels. I think I finally have a configuration that will work for me.

I'm not sure what different problems we're each going to encounter given our different approaches to our track rail. With my 1.5" rail thickness, my drive wheels need to just about touch each other when not on a rail, and then the rail needs to SQUEEEEEZE tightly between those tires. That gives me a good enough grip on the rail to pull 450+lbs (200 lb car, 250 lb in riders) around the track. If you have to spring mount your motors, I'm concerned you wont be able to get a tight enough grip, unless you have one hell of a tension spring.

Anyways, those are just some initial thoughts. Now that I know someone else is actively engaged on a dark ride, like I am, I'll be sure to keep tabs on your progress and help out however I can. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Great job. Seriously. Oh, and I love the graphics!


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

I'm so glad you finally found this forum "SedgewickHotel"! 
I don't have much time today to talk but I will write a longer, more thorough post tomorrow. 

My front guide wheels are fine. I put a 3/8" gap (inside to inside) of the caster wheels. 
However since the drive wheels have to be on the track then I just assumed the motors could and would spread out in the turns due to the metal bending. However, that is not the case. One of the motors will have to be on a hinged plate under tension from a spring of some sort. (Also have to use "grip" tape on the sides of the track.)
Even still, its going to want to bind because it is still under pressure. The optimal thing would to be to have a pivoting assembly that the drive wheels are mounting to.

So, After reading above, I am thinking about going a whole new route, now. Using the drive wheels as my rear wheels. (Like a traditional portable haunted house.)

Maybe even using only one (motor/wheel) to drive the cart.


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## coasterbp (Aug 25, 2009)

You are pretty much at the same point I was at when I gave up. I was going to put the guide wheels on a pivot and leave drive wheels locked to the rail as to not have any potential for slipping around turns. 

-=CoasterBP


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## keithcorcoran (Sep 29, 2010)

why wouldn't you just mount the drive wheels so they're driving on the ground and leave enough play allowance in the guide wheels up front.

if you recall dark rides.. they were NOT the most smooth riding vehicles, often wandering a couple of inches side to side until the track whipped you back on course.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Replying to "keithcorcoran"

I think that is my new direction. This way, there are no tire/grip problems and no swiveling assemblies to design. 

And yes, your right. the carts had some slack in them, most of them, anyways.


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## The Pod (May 19, 2008)

keithcorcoran said:


> why wouldn't you just mount the drive wheels so they're driving on the ground and leave enough play allowance in the guide wheels up front.


This would have to depend upon how power is being supplied to the cart, because if something would happen where the cart somehow jumps off the track.... If your cart is self powered (battery on the cart) and the drive wheels touching the ground, when the cart jumps the track it could move and possibly run/crash into something and could injure the rider vs. having the drive wheels contacting the track and they came free of the track the cart would stop dead even though the wheels continue to rotate. With most carnival dark rides that I've seen, the drive wheels do ride on the ground, but power is supplied through rails on track or ground so that if a cart jumped the track power would be lost and it would stop moving risking a possible crash.


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## SedgewickHotel (Nov 3, 2014)

Haunted Engineer said:


> I'm so glad you finally found this forum "SedgewickHotel"!
> My front guide wheels are fine. I put a 3/8" gap (inside to inside) of the caster wheels.
> However since the drive wheels have to be on the track then I just assumed the motors could and would spread out in the turns due to the metal bending. However, that is not the case. One of the motors will have to be on a hinged plate under tension from a spring of some sort. (Also have to use "grip" tape on the sides of the track.)
> Even still, its going to want to bind because it is still under pressure. The optimal thing would to be to have a pivoting assembly that the drive wheels are mounting to..


Given how similar your setup is to mine, I'm really surprised we encountered such different problems. I know CoasterBP encountered the binding problem as you did, but it seems like Don (O'Neil) and I never encountered that issue. I'm hoping I'm not putting a ton of stress on my motors that I'm not aware of ... I can only imagine them burning out after a few hours of heavy use, right in the middle of the show, with a line full of people waiting to ride.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Just to clarify the fixed wheel problem. 
Since the wheels are indeed fixed and cannot pivot, the wheels must be able to expand and contract due to the track becoming roughly twice as thick in turns as when the cart is on a straight section of track. 
I drew this illustration and maybe the quality is good enough to see that the "left" drive wheel is digging into the track by roughly 1/2" due to the radius in the track. Something has to give and since, I’m assuming there is already a good clamping force on the drive wheels, that when it rolls through the turns it doesn’t over stress the motor assembly. 
If the drive tires where on a pivoting assembly, this problem wouldn’t even exist.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Can anyone "click" on the picture above and view it full (giant) size? Just wondering.

I'm still trying to figure out how this forum works.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

In response to "The Pod"

Good point, I didn't think of that. However, I could easily fix a limit switch over the guide wheels so it would ride on top of the track. In the off-chance it jumped the track, the limit switch would release and cut power to the car. Not a big deal, I don't think. 

When I get to that point in design I'll post the design on here for others.


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## coasterbp (Aug 25, 2009)

Ok. I'm going to throw in a few points here from my experience:

1) I first tried putting the drive wheels on the ground. It didn't work because of the tighter radius of the turns. They ended up "scrubbing" the floor as it negotiated the turns. Very undesirable as it caused a LOT of wear on the wheels. That's why I went to the drive wheels driving the rail.

2) The "floating" or rotating bogey assembly for the drive/guide wheels is actually fairly common in newer dark rides. Not uncommon at all and probably the best solution for those of us that were making the tighter turns. (Midway Mania at DL/WDW uses these) Big carts and tight turns...

3) Don really didn't run into this issue as his turns were a lot larger and I believe the distance he has between his guide and drive wheels was larger than what we were using because of his larger cart design.

Hope this helps. If I were to do it again, (god help me) I would design my cart the same way as I tried before: Drive wheels driving on the rail and a floating bogey assembly for the guide wheels.

-=CoasterBP


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## SedgewickHotel (Nov 3, 2014)

Haunted Engineer said:


> Just to clarify the fixed wheel problem.
> Since the wheels are indeed fixed and cannot pivot, the wheels must be able to expand and contract due to the track becoming roughly twice as thick in turns as when the cart is on a straight section of track.
> I drew this illustration and maybe the quality is good enough to see that the "left" drive wheel is digging into the track by roughly 1/2" due to the radius in the track. Something has to give and since, I’m assuming there is already a good clamping force on the drive wheels, that when it rolls through the turns it doesn’t over stress the motor assembly.
> If the drive tires where on a pivoting assembly, this problem wouldn’t even exist.


Ok, this graphic explains the problem you're experiencing perfectly. It also allows me to understand how I fixed this problem myself when I encountered it. Turns out, I did experience this same exact problem during my trial and error stage, but didn't connect the dots right away - it feels like ages ago. 

When I was first building my curved track, I laminated together 6 sheets of 1/4" plywood. That gave me a total thickness of 1.5", just like the 2x4 that I was using for my straight sections. However, I couldn't even push the car around that corner. I fixed the problem by removing one layer of plywood, so that my total corner thickness was reduced to 1.25". Doing that solved my problem. That extra 1/4" I have when making turns made all the difference. I also noticed that when I was playing with motor placement, any slippage due to overloading the car with weight would happen on straight sections of track. That's because the tires are gripping the corners just a little bit tighter.

Given your metal track, switching rail thicknesses might not be feasible, but it might solve your problem. Maybe double the thickness of your straight track, adjust your motors, and give it a try. It might work.

I understand the problem CoasterBP had with a single drive wheel on the floor, and would agree that route probably wont work for a small track with tight turns. Fellow dark ride builder from the Mystic Motel went the floor mounted motor route and found a way to make it work with 2 drive wheels. He even had 3 cars running in his ride this year, so its definitely a proven method. Unfortunately, I don't think he's active in any online haunting community that I know of, so all I can get from him are sporadic facebook pics that I reverse engineer. It looks like a 2 wheel setup with a differential, which should prevent the "scrubbing" when a single wheeled car tries to navigate those tight turns.

The only good shot of his motor assembly, can be seen here: https://www.facebook.com/MysticMotel/photos/pb.449747085138317.-2207520000.1452302944./863174473795574/?type=3&theater

which fits into the car, here:
https://www.facebook.com/MysticMotel/photos/pb.449747085138317.-2207520000.1452302958./863174207128934/?type=3&theater


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

SedgewickHotel said:


> Ok, this graphic explains the problem you're experiencing perfectly. It also allows me to understand how I fixed this problem myself when I encountered it. Turns out, I did experience this same exact problem during my trial and error stage, but didn't connect the dots right away - it feels like ages ago.
> 
> When I was first building my curved track, I laminated together 6 sheets of 1/4" plywood. That gave me a total thickness of 1.5", just like the 2x4 that I was using for my straight sections. However, I couldn't even push the car around that corner. I fixed the problem by removing one layer of plywood, so that my total corner thickness was reduced to 1.25". Doing that solved my problem. That extra 1/4" I have when making turns made all the difference. I also noticed that when I was playing with motor placement, any slippage due to overloading the car with weight would happen on straight sections of track. That's because the tires are gripping the corners just a little bit tighter.
> 
> ...


Now that you mention it, I remember reading through your forum and reading it at some point a few months ago.

I like the Mystic Motel carts, very stylized!


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

coasterbp said:


> Ok. I'm going to throw in a few points here from my experience:
> 
> 1) I first tried putting the drive wheels on the ground. It didn't work because of the tighter radius of the turns. They ended up "scrubbing" the floor as it negotiated the turns. Very undesirable as it caused a LOT of wear on the wheels. That's why I went to the drive wheels driving the rail.
> 
> ...


Ok, so "coasterbp", your right.

Last night I studied my track design and the option of changing the drive wheels vertical and . . . I can't do it. 
The turn radius is too tight and with independent motors - one tire would drag, causing problems sooner or later.
Also because of the tight turns and the geometry of the cart-wheel-base would cause unnecessary strain on the motors.

I think I'm going to do a 180 and revisit the rotating bogey design, and yes the Midway Mania uses this style, I just rode the ride a few weeks ago at W.D.W. 
You know its bad when you go to those parks just to study ride designs and animatronics! My first visit there and all I wanted to do was study. I couldn't help myself.


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## coasterbp (Aug 25, 2009)

I think it's the best way to go. 

And yes, as you noticed yourself, most newer dark rides are going with this type of design because it allows for a much tighter radius turns.

I'm not sure if you will have to have both your drive wheels and guide wheels be floating. I'm sure you will be able to get it to work well with just the guide wheels. And by looking at pics of your fabrication skills already, I'm sure you'll have no problems sorting this out! 

-=CoasterBP


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Well, I tried designing a rough idea of a rotating or free floating drive bogey. It didn't work, to much interference. It would be feasible if the carts were larger. However since they are indeed tiny then it just won't work. Attached is a drawing of the concept and the cart on in a turn section. The motors and random bolts get in the way of the frame. The frame is simply just to close to the track to make this work. Going back to the drawing board. . .


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Can anyone tell me if this above picture is a "pop-out" picture - one where you can view a very large image? I can't click on it and make it large. Is it like that for everyone, am I doing something wrong?


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## SedgewickHotel (Nov 3, 2014)

Haunted Engineer said:


> Can anyone tell me if this above picture is a "pop-out" picture - one where you can view a very large image? I can't click on it and make it large. Is it like that for everyone, am I doing something wrong?


Sadly, no. I think it's a limitation of the forum that we can't post large images. I got into a habit of posting an image and then including a URL to the full res version that I host on my website. Not sure if there' s a better solution.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

So, now I'm starting to get frustrated, . . . Not giving up, but frustrated that I can't come up with a solid solution to the Drive Tire problem.


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## SedgewickHotel (Nov 3, 2014)

Haunted Engineer said:


> So, now I'm starting to get frustrated, . . . Not giving up, but frustrated that I can't come up with a solid solution to the Drive Tire problem.


What problems do you see with switching to the Mystic Motel method of a single motor with a rear differential? He did prove that this method works with tight turning radiuses, and metal track.

If I had to completely start over from scratch, I think that is the direction I would go in.

For anyone who doesn't know what a rear differential is...


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## Attic Hatch (Sep 12, 2015)

DISCLAIMER: I'm not an engineer, I only play one when making Halloween props.

I did a slap-dash mod that may or may not be helpful:











Haunted Engineer said:


> Well, I tried designing a rough idea of a rotating or free floating drive bogey. It didn't work, to much interference. It would be feasible if the carts were larger. However since they are indeed tiny then it just won't work. Attached is a drawing of the concept and the cart on in a turn section. The motors and random bolts get in the way of the frame. The frame is simply just to close to the track to make this work. Going back to the drawing board. . .
> 
> View attachment 272240


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

SedgewickHotel said:


> What problems do you see with switching to the Mystic Motel method of a single motor with a rear differential? He did prove that this method works with tight turning radiuses, and metal track.
> 
> If I had to completely start over from scratch, I think that is the direction I would go in.
> 
> For anyone who doesn't know what a rear differential is...


That's a bit more complicated to do, and come up with. . . Unless you use a drive axle from a lawn mower. Take the larger rear tires off and replace them with the smaller front tires. 

Still, a lot more would have to go into it. The vehicle frame would have to be redesigned to sit up higher and mount differently. Then you would have to add a top flange to your track. Something for the front guide rollers to grab to keep from allowing the cart to flip backwards.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Actually, "Attic Hatch", this may work! I'll let everyone know later.


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## Attic Hatch (Sep 12, 2015)

Great!
While I'm tossing around brilliant ideas . . . . . ..











Haunted Engineer said:


> Actually, "Attic Hatch", this may work! I'll let everyone know later.


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## SedgewickHotel (Nov 3, 2014)

Haunted Engineer said:


> That's a bit more complicated to do, and come up with. . . Unless you use a drive axle from a lawn mower. Take the larger rear tires off and replace them with the smaller front tires.
> 
> Still, a lot more would have to go into it. The vehicle frame would have to be redesigned to sit up higher and mount differently. Then you would have to add a top flange to your track. Something for the front guide rollers to grab to keep from allowing the cart to flip backwards.


I've spent way more time thinking about your problem than I'm proud to admit, so I reached out to Scott from Mystic Motel to see exactly what he was using for motors... He said the motor is a Go Go Ultra X Mobility Scooter motor that they pulled out of a working unit. They built a metal frame for them so they drop right into the ride car. He said, "those motors are nice for sharp turns because other wheel locks in when one can't roll."

I really like Attic Hatch's idea to raise the rear part of the frame to make room for the motors to pivot. That's pretty slick.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

SedgewickHotel said:


> I've spent way more time thinking about your problem than I'm proud to admit, so I reached out to Scott from Mystic Motel to see exactly what he was using for motors... He said the motor is a Go Go Ultra X Mobility Scooter motor that they pulled out of a working unit. They built a metal frame for them so they drop right into the ride car. He said, "those motors are nice for sharp turns because other wheel locks in when one can't roll."
> 
> I really like Attic Hatch's idea to raise the rear part of the frame to make room for the motors to pivot. That's pretty slick.


Ahh, Thank you! 

It sounds like he may have right the correct motor setup. I did a quick search on Google and found a picture. Its perfect.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Attic Hatch said:


> DISCLAIMER: I'm not an engineer, I only play one when making Halloween props.
> 
> I did a slap-dash mod that may or may not be helpful:
> 
> View attachment 272353


Ok "Attic Hatch", here is your idea. Great, but I don't believe its going to work.

The problem is now, What keeps the drive wheels from sagging, dragging on the ground getting caught in the track mounts?


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## coasterbp (Aug 25, 2009)

Haunted Engineer...

Here's my thought. Instead of putting your motors on hinges that can open and close, my idea was to put the motors on a mount that rotated. So instead of swinging in and out on the turns, the mount just rotated on a center point that is the center line for your rail. That way, you keep the same exact tension on the rail, even through the turns, and yet you still can navigate the tight turns proficiently. 

Does that make sense? That would also save room and allow you to put the back support rail of your frame back on.

-=CoasterBP


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

coasterbp said:


> Haunted Engineer...
> 
> Here's my thought. Instead of putting your motors on hinges that can open and close, my idea was to put the motors on a mount that rotated. So instead of swinging in and out on the turns, the mount just rotated on a center point that is the center line for your rail. That way, you keep the same exact tension on the rail, even through the turns, and yet you still can navigate the tight turns proficiently.
> 
> ...


You had to been reading my mind. Your right!

I revisited that idea last night. Worked on it a little while and it works. I had to rethink how to mount it but I got it. It's almost complete - when it is (today) I'll post the picture for everyone to see.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Ok, so the following pictures show a design I'm satisfied with and basically exactly what they put on the new Dark Ride Vehicles. 
Thoughts?


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## Attic Hatch (Sep 12, 2015)

Looks good! 
It's kind of a version of this: (Kidding - honest)









Do you think you'll need any damping or tensioning? (aside from that adjustment bolt)


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Yea "Attic Hatch" is it. 

The thing is I tried this earlier and instead of having the pivot point between the drive tires, I had it between the guide tires and the drive tires causing the drive tires to swing out and hit the frame in a turn. All I had to do was slide the pivot point back to the drive tires.


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## maguiar (Jan 4, 2016)

This is similar to what I did for my Dark Ride this last Halloween. I'll post a video here in a few.


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## maguiar (Jan 4, 2016)

maguiar said:


> This is similar to what I did for my Dark Ride this last Halloween. I'll post a video here in a few.


Sorry, need to boost my post count so that I can link to the video.


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## maguiar (Jan 4, 2016)

maguiar said:


> Sorry, need to boost my post count so that I can link to the video.


Sorry again, last one.


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## maguiar (Jan 4, 2016)

Hello there Gentlemen,

OK, got past my limitations. Wanted to share with you what I did last year which is similar in concept to what you are discussing here. I will be providing more videos of the underside of the car but you can see the drive and guide wheels turning with the track rails. Take a look...


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Maguiar, 
This is amazing! It looks great too! I would love to see the cart in more detail. You've done exactly what I'm working on.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Maguiar,

What is the turning radius of your track?


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## maguiar (Jan 4, 2016)

Haunted Engineer said:


> Maguiar,
> This is amazing! It looks great too! I would love to see the cart in more detail. You've done exactly what I'm working on.


I am giving a presentation on the dark ride in 2 weeks and plan on putting together some additional videos, so hang in there.



Haunted Engineer said:


> Maguiar,
> 
> What is the turning radius of your track?


The curved sections have a 2 foot radius. Really tight but I wanted this so that I could keep within the confines of a standard 4 X 8 sheet.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Maguiar,

Just checking in to see if you had any new video or pictures to show the underside of your cart. I'm still looking forward to checking that out!


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## maguiar (Jan 4, 2016)

Haunted Engineer said:


> Maguiar,
> 
> Just checking in to see if you had any new video or pictures to show the underside of your cart. I'm still looking forward to checking that out!


Hi Haunted Engineer,

Sorry that this has taken so long.

I started a new thread here where I will be sharing whatever I can as I did not want to hijack your thread.


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## kprimm (Apr 3, 2009)

this will be fun to watch. I love old dark rides, they are the old Haunted house to me.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Awesome! This should be neat to check out.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Alright guys, sorry it has been awhile. School and Work has taken over my life here lately. 

However, here are a couple of updates (see pictures below). 

I now have the new front (steer bogey) complete and also the new rear (drive bogey) complete.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Question:
I have now decided on using a PLC to control the system. I'll use the D0-05AA Direct Logic 05 Brick from Automation Direct. I'm familiar with it or actually the entire 05 family because we use a lot of them at work. So, I feel comfortable writing the logic to control the system - should be pretty fun. However, since I need to send a on/off signal to the car, I need a wireless solution. Does anyone have any ideas? - Just a simple wireless switch to put in the circuit on the cart. 

The Output on the Brick will be A/C. 
The current on the Cart will be D/C. 

Disclosure: Electrical, is about the only thing I haven't studied - so, I'm pretty dumb when it comes to electrical.


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## maguiar (Jan 4, 2016)

This looks really good. With this set up the ride should be as smooth as silk.


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## maguiar (Jan 4, 2016)

Haunted Engineer said:


> Question:
> I have now decided on using a PLC to control the system. I'll use the D0-05AA Direct Logic 05 Brick from Automation Direct. I'm familiar with it or actually the entire 05 family because we use a lot of them at work. So, I feel comfortable writing the logic to control the system - should be pretty fun. However, since I need to send a on/off signal to the car, I need a wireless solution. Does anyone have any ideas? - Just a simple wireless switch to put in the circuit on the cart.
> 
> The Output on the Brick will be A/C.
> ...


Digi has some good solutions. The XBee Pro's were easy to use but I did have some connectivity issues. I don't think that it was the XBees because they worked perfectly off site. It was when they were on-site that I had a problem. No time to trouble shoot so I abandoned the idea.

Take a look, they are quite powerful and easy to set-up and use. http://www.digi.com/products/xbee-rf-solutions


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Yes, I should be pretty darn smooth. I chose all low density wheels so it should be very smooth.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Looking at the Digi's is kind of intimidating. I'm really not sure which one to look at. . . .


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## SedgewickHotel (Nov 3, 2014)

Haunted Engineer said:


> Yes, I should be pretty darn smooth. I chose all low density wheels so it should be very smooth.


Do you have a link to the wheels you went with? I'm still not happy with mine, although I'd have to deconstruct my entire car to replace them.


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## maguiar (Jan 4, 2016)

Haunted Engineer said:


> Looking at the Digi's is kind of intimidating. I'm really not sure which one to look at. . . .


Completely understand. Maybe start with the XBee Pro's as they support line passing. Basically what this means is that one XBee will replicate the state of an output seen on a second XBee, so if pin 1 on XBee A goes high, XBee B will replicate that state and set its pin 1 to high. Essentially this is just a wireless jumper cable. For your application of just turning switches on and off, this would probably be the easiest. The only issue is that the XBee's operate at 3.3 volts so you would have to buy or build a level/voltage shifter to alternately control your relays.

See video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLQEo2Ow1Qs


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

SedgewickHotel said:


> Do you have a link to the wheels you went with? I'm still not happy with mine, although I'd have to deconstruct my entire car to replace them.


Sure, . . . http://www.mcmaster.com/#2829t19/=11jusrb

Any of the wheels with a soft Durometer of around 65A is what you want. There soft, but firm. They remind me of Roller Coaster tires.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

maguiar said:


> Completely understand. Maybe start with the XBee Pro's as they support line passing. Basically what this means is that one XBee will replicate the state of an output seen on a second XBee, so if pin 1 on XBee A goes high, XBee B will replicate that state and set its pin 1 to high. Essentially this is just a wireless jumper cable. For your application of just turning switches on and off, this would probably be the easiest. The only issue is that the XBee's operate at 3.3 volts so you would have to buy or build a level/voltage shifter to alternately control your relays.
> 
> See video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLQEo2Ow1Qs


Ok, Great! I'll look more into this. Thank you.


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## AtmosFX_Jen (Jan 13, 2016)

Yeah wow. This doesn't look "amateur" to me. So cool.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

AtmosFX_Jen said:


> Yeah wow. This doesn't look "amateur" to me. So cool.


Thank you! Is this the Atmos-Fear FX company?


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Update:
I was looking around online trying to find a cheap electrical enclosure but of course they are very expensive. 

Turns out I just needed to walk outside my office and the shop guys had a nearly new one laying on the ground for me. They were going to throw it away. Its a perfect size to mount my PLC and other components along with a few buttons to control the ride. 

Heck yea.
















I can check that off my list!


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## SedgewickHotel (Nov 3, 2014)

Haunted Engineer said:


> Update:
> I was looking around online trying to find a cheap electrical enclosure but of course they are very expensive.
> 
> Turns out I just needed to walk outside my office and the shop guys had a nearly new one laying on the ground for me. They were going to throw it away. Its a perfect size to mount my PLC and other components along with a few buttons to control the ride.
> ...


My jealousy is off the charts right now.... #justsayin


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

SedgewickHotel said:


> My jealousy is off the charts right now.... #justsayin


Yea, I washed it with some soap and water and besides a few holes, it looks brand spankin' new.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Hey guys! I have a small update. I am sort-of done with the frame of the cart. I still have to cut a piece out and drill two holes but I’ll do that this weekend at the house. Unfortunately, I have to finish the top section of the frame by myself and it looks “shady”, but it will hold up at least. I’m not sure if it just would have been better to leave the frame flat and just completely build a wood body on top. I’m thinking now I just should have done that. Maybe not. . . 

I also got my Automation Direct “Direct Logic 05” PLC. I bought the A/C brick version. 8 A/C inputs, and 6 A/C outputs. I didn’t realize this but the brick even comes with one open slot for changing to whatever I/O you would want to add to it. That is neat because, I could add an analog card to read air-compressor pressure for me. I’d maybe use that as a check for the ride. (Not let the cart move until the pressure was back up.) 

I’m hoping after this weekend I will be able to post a picture of the cart with the new bogeys sitting on the track . . . we’ll see . . .


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## SedgewickHotel (Nov 3, 2014)

Haunted Engineer said:


> Hey guys! I have a small update. I am sort-of done with the frame of the cart. I still have to cut a piece out and drill two holes but I’ll do that this weekend at the house. Unfortunately, I have to finish the top section of the frame by myself and it looks “shady”, but it will hold up at least. I’m not sure if it just would have been better to leave the frame flat and just completely build a wood body on top. I’m thinking now I just should have done that. Maybe not. . .


In case you're wondering, it's completely normal to second guess every decision you make. 

But seriously, the frame looks great. I assume you're going to cover the frame in wood (or something?), so if no one is going to see it, it can be a little imperfect and no one will know (except you, and us, I guess).


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## maguiar (Jan 4, 2016)

SedgewickHotel said:


> In case you're wondering, it's completely normal to second guess every decision you make.
> 
> But seriously, the frame looks great. I assume you're going to cover the frame in wood (or something?), so if no one is going to see it, it can be a little imperfect and no one will know (except you, and us, I guess).


Agreed. Wish that I had built my cars frame out of metal. I believe that it will cut down on noise, provide a smoother ride, and extend the life of the car. The only draw back is that it makes future modifications a bit more complex. This is turning out nicely.

Have you made any further considerations in regards to adding a bus system?


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

maguiar said:


> Agreed. Wish that I had built my cars frame out of metal. I believe that it will cut down on noise, provide a smoother ride, and extend the life of the car. The only draw back is that it makes future modifications a bit more complex. This is turning out nicely.
> 
> Have you made any further considerations in regards to adding a bus system?



At this point, no. I'm honestly afraid of the hot track idea. Although done right, it wouldn't be a big safety issue, but I'd want to dedicate a great deal of time to designing it. It would make powering my car so much easier, though. Also, it would probably impede on my parametric track design. Right now, I can swap the turn pieces around at any angle (left or right) - if I put a positive rail on one side the guide (negative) rail, then I have to pre-choose my track layout.


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## Grudge (Nov 3, 2015)

Unless you make the positive and negative the same height on opposite sides of the track. Then when you swap them around they still line up, just like the toy train tracks.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Grudge said:


> Unless you make the positive and negative the same height on opposite sides of the track. Then when you swap them around they still line up, just like the toy train tracks.



Not quite. The track for one is already been fabricated. Two, I'd have to put a positive bar on both sides of the Center negative bar. Then it wouldn't matter which direction I made the turn go. However, knowing what the drive and guide bogeys look like on the track, there isn't any room to add a pickup bar to the existing guide track. I kinda' cut myself short on that one.


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## ZombieRaider (May 18, 2008)

I'm sure arduino has a cheap solution....I'm amazed at the amount of support behind this little micro controller....Someone has probably already written the code to do what you want and the arduino forum is extremely helpful....Since you already code PLCs, the knowledge should transfer over fairly easily....A quick search on youtube for arduino/wireless brought up quite a few links....Go check them out!....ZR




Haunted Engineer said:


> Question:
> I have now decided on using a PLC to control the system. I'll use the D0-05AA Direct Logic 05 Brick from Automation Direct. I'm familiar with it or actually the entire 05 family because we use a lot of them at work. So, I feel comfortable writing the logic to control the system - should be pretty fun. However, since I need to send a on/off signal to the car, I need a wireless solution. Does anyone have any ideas? - Just a simple wireless switch to put in the circuit on the cart.
> 
> The Output on the Brick will be A/C.
> ...


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## Deaths Reach (Aug 7, 2009)

I am super excited about this project, Haunted Engineer - can't wait to see the end product!


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Deaths Reach said:


> I am super excited about this project, Haunted Engineer - can't wait to see the end product!


Yea me too, I just hope I don't disappoint. I'm thinking this first year will be just getting everything technically correct. Then, next year I can go crazy with the awesome prop building. My #1 prop is a custom Jack-N-the-Box idea. I can't wait!


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

ZombieRaider said:


> I'm sure arduino has a cheap solution....I'm amazed at the amount of support behind this little micro controller....Someone has probably already written the code to do what you want and the arduino forum is extremely helpful....Since you already code PLCs, the knowledge should transfer over fairly easily....A quick search on youtube for arduino/wireless brought up quite a few links....Go check them out!....ZR



I will definitely look into that. The wireless solution is the only thing that I haven't figures out - hoping it doesn't put a kink into my project later on.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

I have another small update. 
I have acquired the track sensor's. I think I have 5 of them which is perfect because I only have 5 outputs available on my PLC. They won't trigger the props directly, instead the PLC will track the cart around the track using these switches and then time the props off that.








I also made a PLC "trainer" to help write and check the program as I go. My first one - I though it was pretty kewl.


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## maguiar (Jan 4, 2016)

Haunted Engineer said:


> I have another small update.
> I have acquired the track sensor's. I think I have 5 of them which is perfect because I only have 5 outputs available on my PLC. They won't trigger the props directly, instead the PLC will track the cart around the track using these switches and then time the props off that.


Everything on your build is industrial grade. This is a very robust system. Your making it hard to keep up.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Yea! I want this sucker to last me year after year and be able to expand on it. I wanna be able to push a button and everything works correctly every time. Only at this point in my life would I be able to acquire all the parts and knowledge to do this, however I have been dreaming of doing something with ride technology (however small) since I was really young. I just hope toward the end, I have enough money and time to make my decorations match the robustness of the system.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Here are a couple of renderings I had to make for my class. . .


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Here are another few photos of progress this past weekend. I finally got the frame together - all that is left now is to build the wooden body! 

























Its a smooth and quite ride.


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## maguiar (Jan 4, 2016)

Haunted Engineer said:


> Here are another few photos of progress this past weekend. I finally got the frame together - all that is left now is to build the wooden body! Its a smooth and quite ride.


Looking good. Did you run it through the track under it's own power?
Also, can we reserve VIP front of the line passes for this Halloween?


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

I haven't ran it under its own power yet, but soon . . and yea, we can manage the VIP passes for Halloween.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

As I'm sitting here finishing up on the program for the PLC. I was lookin at "frighttprops.com's prop controllers. Does anyone else think they are a little overpriced?


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

If you could make your own backyard haunted house, what theme would you do? (Remember is needs to be realistic and feasible to do.)


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## maguiar (Jan 4, 2016)

Haunted Engineer said:


> As I'm sitting here finishing up on the program for the PLC. I was lookin at "frighttprops.com's prop controllers. Does anyone else think they are a little overpriced?


I am not sure if they are overpriced as I have not made any comparisons but I do believe that the amount that they are asking is more than what the product is worth. I prefer to make my own controllers which usually cost about the same, but provide much more than what they have to offer.

I guess that the good thing is that at least they are providing a product that normally wouldn't be available, and if your a person that is not handy with electronics and such, the price is not so bad.


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## maguiar (Jan 4, 2016)

Haunted Engineer said:


> If you could make your own backyard haunted house, what theme would you do? (Remember is needs to be realistic and feasible to do.)


Past Themes:


Evil Queens Castle & Magic Mirror
House of Mary - Stroy driven theme about a girl that currently haunts the house


Upcoming Themes:


Haunted Hotel
Saucer Crash Site
Evil Carnival


You mentioned previously about your Jack in the Box, how about CarnEvil the ride? You can include the JITB, a clown that juggles human heads, Etc.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

maguiar said:


> I am not sure if they are overpriced as I have not made any comparisons but I do believe that the amount that they are asking is more than what the product is worth. I prefer to make my own controllers which usually cost about the same, but provide much more than what they have to offer.
> 
> I guess that the good thing is that at least they are providing a product that normally wouldn't be available, and if your a person that is not handy with electronics and such, the price is not so bad.



Yea, I agree. The controllers are priced at more than what they are worth.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

maguiar said:


> Past Themes:
> 
> 
> Evil Queens Castle & Magic Mirror
> ...


Yea, I like the CarnEvil idea. I keep coming back to evil clowns when looking around at prop ideas. I have one idea with the JITB where once the cart gets in complete darkness the cart stops. Maybe 3 or 4 seconds passes and then a low light shines on a Jack-In-The-Box and the handle with music starts playing. The song finishes playing and the top pops open revealing nothing inside - the cart starts to move while the Jack pops out from the wall on the other side of the cart. . . watcha think?


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## maguiar (Jan 4, 2016)

Haunted Engineer said:


> Yea, I like the CarnEvil idea. I keep coming back to evil clowns when looking around at prop ideas. I have one idea with the JITB where once the cart gets in complete darkness the cart stops. Maybe 3 or 4 seconds passes and then a low light shines on a Jack-In-The-Box and the handle with music starts playing. The song finishes playing and the top pops open revealing nothing inside - the cart starts to move while the Jack pops out from the wall on the other side of the cart. . . watcha think?


I love it, a great miss-direction idea. Should take quite a few by surprise.

You could also paint your ride exterior so that it resembles a circus tent and add flags along the perimeter with a big CarnEvil banner across and above the main entrance. How about a spot for the weird and unusual, that would open the door for just about any prop.


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## ZombieRaider (May 18, 2008)

I own many fright idea controllers and yes, they are expensive money wise but they do have something to offer for the money....A simple, quick way to program a scare with sound.....Someone who's never programmed in their life can have one programmed the same day it arrives in the mail.... Not everyone has the time to learn how to code PLC's and these are a great alternative to someone who otherwise wouldn't use automation at all ....You don't have to worry for the most part about overloading the circuit (No formulas to learn), it's housed in a nice robust box (I've seen tons of home concoctions that are a spaghetti mess with no enclosure) and you don't have to learn to solder....That being said I'm just now learning arduino's, learning the code, learning how to build the circuits I want to incorporate, etc.....It will be a lot cheaper money wise if a can learn it but it's costing me a lot in time at the moment......ZR



Haunted Engineer said:


> As I'm sitting here finishing up on the program for the PLC. I was lookin at "frighttprops.com's prop controllers. Does anyone else think they are a little overpriced?


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## ZombieRaider (May 18, 2008)

If you decide to go with Carnevil, check out the 3d paints....Terra has some nice "How To" videos on chroma paint....This would give your limited space more depth for sure......ZR



Haunted Engineer said:


> Yea, I like the CarnEvil idea. I keep coming back to evil clowns when looking around at prop ideas. I have one idea with the JITB where once the cart gets in complete darkness the cart stops. Maybe 3 or 4 seconds passes and then a low light shines on a Jack-In-The-Box and the handle with music starts playing. The song finishes playing and the top pops open revealing nothing inside - the cart starts to move while the Jack pops out from the wall on the other side of the cart. . . watcha think?


----------



## SedgewickHotel (Nov 3, 2014)

Haunted Engineer said:


> Yea, I like the CarnEvil idea. I keep coming back to evil clowns when looking around at prop ideas. I have one idea with the JITB where once the cart gets in complete darkness the cart stops. Maybe 3 or 4 seconds passes and then a low light shines on a Jack-In-The-Box and the handle with music starts playing. The song finishes playing and the top pops open revealing nothing inside - the cart starts to move while the Jack pops out from the wall on the other side of the cart. . . watcha think?


I too think the CarnEvil/clown idea is a great one. I was watching a Batman cartoon recently with my kids, and they had a scene at a carnival. There was a Joker-themed Dark Ride in the background, and it really got me thinking about how cool that would be if it were real, even if it wasn't strictly "Joker" themed, per se, but evil funhouse.


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## Tconahaunter (Jun 20, 2012)

ZombieRaider said:


> I own many fright idea controllers and yes, they are expensive money wise but they do have something to offer for the money....A simple, quick way to program a scare with sound.....Someone who's never programmed in their life can have one programmed the same day it arrives in the mail.... Not everyone has the time to learn how to code PLC's and these are a great alternative to someone who otherwise wouldn't use automation at all ....You don't have to worry for the most part about overloading the circuit (No formulas to learn), it's housed in a nice robust box (I've seen tons of home concoctions that are a spaghetti mess with no enclosure) and you don't have to learn to solder....That being said I'm just now learning arduino's, learning the code, learning how to build the circuits I want to incorporate, etc.....It will be a lot cheaper money wise if a can learn it but it's costing me a lot in time at the moment......ZR


I as well second that. Easy to program and worth the extra $$$. I would rather be building props then coding PLC.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Yea, you guys are right. And just for the record I was dissing Fright Props. I love their site and products - especially the controllers. I just wish they were just a little bit cheaper. 

Zombie Raider your right. I'd rather be building props than coding a controller for it.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

So, it has been a pretty busy weekend, in a good way. First off, we had a torrential downpour for 3 days last week that finished off the roof of my building (and floor). It has had a leak for 2 years but not too bad. Well, that changed last week. A limb fell right in the middle of the building damaging the ridge vent all the way down the top of the building causing 18 foot of the building to leak and in turn causing a section of the floor to basically turn to mush. I fixed the roof in about a day and now we are good to go back to laying out the track.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

I also completed the coding for the PLC. I had trouble with it a little but I worked through it. I’ll have to tweak it of course when all the electronics are completed and I’m ready for testing. 

View attachment 276434


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## Attic Hatch (Sep 12, 2015)

I am convinced the weather gods HATE HALLOWEEN and conspire to challenge a person's resolve!

Whoever suggested the Chromadepth 3-D; That seems to be a natural for this: 
You can create the illusion of turning into a false tunnel or hallway, among countless other effects.
That would allow for a "realistic" amount of prop fabrication and still be an elaborate experience!


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Here is the fun part. I finally was able to clear and sort of clean out my building and start laying the track. There is a total of 70 feet of 4 x 1/4” track. 
I finally got to push the cart around the track and probably did so about 70 times, I won’t lie. 
I apparently got lucky with the back-to-back turns as the cart does a drifting/sliding action through them similar to some of the bigger dark rides, say at like, Disney. 
I was even able to run (literally) through-out the track many, many times just to see how the parts and track acted. Only one hitch. About 50 times through, one of my guide wheels from the drive bogey fell off. Needless to say that sucker grinded to a halt real fast. I almost went flying over the cart. I apparently missed a washer that keeps the wheel from sliding off of its bearings. So, the tire just slid down and fell off of the bolt/ bearings and rolled away until the bare bearings and bolt grinded on the track for a second and then got caught on a transition of another piece of track. Long story short, it’s fixed. 

View attachment 276435

View attachment 276436

View attachment 276437

View attachment 276437

View attachment 276439


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

SedgewickHotel said:


> I too think the CarnEvil/clown idea is a great one. I was watching a Batman cartoon recently with my kids, and they had a scene at a carnival. There was a Joker-themed Dark Ride in the background, and it really got me thinking about how cool that would be if it were real, even if it wasn't strictly "Joker" themed, per se, but evil funhouse.


I think the CarnEVil/clown idea is what I will do this year. I think its great and I think it should be easy and really fun to do. I like all of the colors and old fashion lighting that can be done to give if some more depth.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

ZombieRaider said:


> If you decide to go with Carnevil, check out the 3d paints....Terra has some nice "How To" videos on chroma paint....This would give your limited space more depth for sure......ZR


So, don't shoot me for this, but what or who is Terra? And I'm interested in the chroma paint. Sound pretty neat.


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## Attic Hatch (Sep 12, 2015)

Aw that's a terrible tease! Can't see the attachments!



Haunted Engineer said:


> Here is the fun part. I finally was able to clear and sort of clean out my building and start laying the track. There is a total of 70 feet of 4 x 1/4” track.
> I finally got to push the cart around the track and probably did so about 70 times, I won’t lie.
> I apparently got lucky with the back-to-back turns as the cart does a drifting/sliding action through them similar to some of the bigger dark rides, say at like, Disney.
> I was even able to run (literally) through-out the track many, many times just to see how the parts and track acted. Only one hitch. About 50 times through, one of my guide wheels from the drive bogey fell off. Needless to say that sucker grinded to a halt real fast. I almost went flying over the cart. I apparently missed a washer that keeps the wheel from sliding off of its bearings. So, the tire just slid down and fell off of the bolt/ bearings and rolled away until the bare bearings and bolt grinded on the track for a second and then got caught on a transition of another piece of track. Long story short, it’s fixed.
> ...


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## maguiar (Jan 4, 2016)

Haunted Engineer said:


> Yea, you guys are right. And just for the record I was dissing Fright Props. I love their site and products - especially the controllers. I just wish they were just a little bit cheaper.
> 
> Zombie Raider your right. I'd rather be building props than coding a controller for it.


I strongly encourage anyone to check into the Arduino line of micro-controllers. While programming a PLC using logic, especially when done in ladder diagram, is quite straight forward, the associated costs of the PLC and external peripherals makes it a very expensive alternative (Wish i could afford it as I believe that this is the best way to go).

The Arduino micro-controllers and associated peripherals are very cheap and literally take days to learn. If someone is not willing, or feels that they do not have skills necessary to work with an Arduino, then buying a pre-packaged controller is probably your best bet, but trust me, if you have enough skills to build props, then you have enough skills to work with the Arduino.

I used the Arduino controllers this last Halloween (2015) as an alternative to some PC programming that I was using in my previous haunt (2014). I knew nothing about the Arduino and was able to successfully build circuits and program the Arduinos within a matter of a few days. It looks intimidating, but once you get the hang of it, it's really quite simple. I can buy approximately 10 Arduino micro-controllers for the price of one commercially available controller, including the necessary external peripherals.

Another plus to using the Arduino is the community. If you cant figure it out, or just want someone else to program it for you, there are thousands of sites & people that are always willing to lend a helping hand. We might even be able to set up a group here that concentrates on solving issues using the Arduino that can be shared with everyone. You want to trigger something, this is what you need, here is how you do it and here is the code...

Don't get me wrong here, I do not want to put any company out of business by referring people to cheaper options and I do not have anything against companies that offer such products as they support and provide options for those that just can't do it. I just feel that if there is a cheaper alternative, then everyone should be aware of that option.

Please note that these commercial options also have controllers that blow the Arduino out of the water. This encouragement is solely for simple prop triggering and or controlling. (Take a look at this post here as an example)


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Attic Hatch said:


> Aw that's a terrible tease! Can't see the attachments!


Sorry about the pictures (attachments). I don't know why it did that.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

I had already delete those pics so I'll have to go take some more.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Haunted Engineer said:


> I also completed the coding for the PLC. I had trouble with it a little but I worked through it. I’ll have to tweak it of course when all the electronics are completed and I’m ready for testing.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Haunted Engineer said:


> Sorry about the pictures (attachments). I don't know why it did that.


Repost


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)




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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)




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## Attic Hatch (Sep 12, 2015)

Terra is one o the pioneers of haunt how-to "vloging"! Everything she does is 1st rate!







Haunted Engineer said:


> So, don't shoot me for this, but what or who is Terra? And I'm interested in the chroma paint. Sound pretty neat.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Wow!! So that's how that is done. I love it, but is a lot of work. I may have to save it for next years version.


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## Attic Hatch (Sep 12, 2015)

A laser vortex would be cool! ( I LOVE spending other people's money!)


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## SedgewickHotel (Nov 3, 2014)

Another idea worth considering, given your tight confines, is having double the scares and running the car through the track twice. 

So they load, go through once, see one set of scares, go right through the pickup area instead of unloading, and then the 2nd set of scares go off. You need to space the scares out anyway, so they are effective. Therefore, doing it this way would double your ride length and scares. Since riders might "remember" the path of the track, their second time through they would be scared at different points.. could be an idea worth considering. It's an idea I might toy with for my ride, as well.


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## maguiar (Jan 4, 2016)

SedgewickHotel said:


> Another idea worth considering, given your tight confines, is having double the scares and running the car through the track twice.
> 
> So they load, go through once, see one set of scares, go right through the pickup area instead of unloading, and then the 2nd set of scares go off. You need to space the scares out anyway, so they are effective. Therefore, doing it this way would double your ride length and scares. Since riders might "remember" the path of the track, their second time through they would be scared at different points.. could be an idea worth considering. It's an idea I might toy with for my ride, as well.


Great idea SedgewickHotel. I like it and may steal it for this years ride.


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## SedgewickHotel (Nov 3, 2014)

SedgewickHotel said:


> Another idea worth considering, given your tight confines, is having double the scares and running the car through the track twice.
> 
> So they load, go through once, see one set of scares, go right through the pickup area instead of unloading, and then the 2nd set of scares go off. You need to space the scares out anyway, so they are effective. Therefore, doing it this way would double your ride length and scares. Since riders might "remember" the path of the track, their second time through they would be scared at different points.. could be an idea worth considering. It's an idea I might toy with for my ride, as well.


This could be even more effective, if the load area had an entry door that could open and close. It's open for rides during load and unload, and when closed, this part of the ride appears as a dark tunnel. The riders might not even realize they went through the load/unload area again.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

SedgewickHotel said:


> Another idea worth considering, given your tight confines, is having double the scares and running the car through the track twice.
> 
> So they load, go through once, see one set of scares, go right through the pickup area instead of unloading, and then the 2nd set of scares go off. You need to space the scares out anyway, so they are effective. Therefore, doing it this way would double your ride length and scares. Since riders might "remember" the path of the track, their second time through they would be scared at different points.. could be an idea worth considering. It's an idea I might toy with for my ride, as well.


That is a fantastic idea! I'm doing it!


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Alright guys. Kinda' hit a aggravating snag this weekend. 

The dilemma was how to activate/trigger/control the props.

My initial plan was to use the PLC to control the props. However, the more I thought about it, the more I thought it was way more aggravating doing that. 

I'm going to take a step back and take a nod to old school days and just let a track sensor activate the props for as long as the switch is open (as the car passes by it.)


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## coasterbp (Aug 25, 2009)

What part of using the PLC to trigger props made you change your mind? Just curious. I'd like to help you, if I could.

-=CoasterBP


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

On this particular PLC, the D0-05AA, I only have 6 outputs (8 inputs) all A/C. 
One output, of course, will be to control the carts motor. Another to control a fog machine.

I'm comfortable writing the logic for this but I'm no expert. And it seems the task of just animating a prop with all of the timers and such is the more complicated route to take. Versus - just have one or two outputs run to one or two relays that control 110v power to a bank of receptacles. Then, from those receptacles run to the track switches and from the track switches to the solenoids. As the cart passes over the switches it activates the solenoids. I can control how long the props stays activated (in miliseconds) by how long of the sensor wire is. 

Also, some more complicated props (whether I build them this year or next) will require 2 or 3 signals to control solenoids. If you roughly set aside 5 props with at least 2 solenoids then you run out of room on the PLC. So, that was another reason why I'm backing out of letting the PLC control the props. Not enough outputs. 

I just want to stay simple as possible. At least this first year. I don't want to get in over my head and sink the project.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Problem:

I'm back to my issue with a wireless relay. I feel this should really be simple - but so far is over my head. 

I just want to simply have a 120v signal (relayed to another voltage) simply turn ON or OFF - transmit to a receiver in the cart and turn ON or OFF, a 48V set of motors. . . is there anything I could hack?


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

I have it figured out. Why make the cart wireless? 

I'll mount a DC switch on the bottom side of the cart. Then have a AC solenoid (through the PLC) control a small pneumatic cylinder that moves a paddle/bar up and down at the load/unload station. 

It will also sound neat - sound like a roller coaster taking off.


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## SedgewickHotel (Nov 3, 2014)

Haunted Engineer said:


> I have it figured out. Why make the cart wireless?
> 
> I'll mount a DC switch on the bottom side of the cart. Then have a AC solenoid (through the PLC) control a small pneumatic cylinder that moves a paddle/bar up and down at the load/unload station.
> 
> It will also sound neat - sound like a roller coaster taking off.


Not having the ability to kill power to the car at any given time would absolutely terrify me. A solution you may want to consider is using RC.

You can get a cheap 3 channel transmitter/receiver combo good about $30. Then, you can buy a PicoSwitch for the 3rd channel ($20), which is used for auxiliary purposes. In my current setup, I'm purely using it to turn on/off lights but you could easily wire it to be a kill switch. You could even hack into the remote and replace the built in aux switch with a custom switch built into your control panel.


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## SedgewickHotel (Nov 3, 2014)

After thinking about this some more, the $20 PicoSwitch by itself wouldn't be enough since it can only support a 1amp load. You'd need to stick a relay in there, I think.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Roller Coasters can't stop on a dime without brake stations. But I understand what you mean. Your right. 

What if I put a E-Stop in the cart for the guest in emergency?
(I was already going to mount one to the back of the cart to kill it during loading.)

Didn't you use a controller the adjust the speed of the motors? 

(Thinking out loud here. . . )
What if I use a solenoid-tiny air cylinder (with slow releases) to leverage the go-lever on the RC controller, to a servo motor linked to the Variable speed controller. (So I can still use the PLC to slow start and slow stop the cart.)

It'd be nice if someone sold a barebones 1 or 2 channel transmitter.


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## SedgewickHotel (Nov 3, 2014)

Haunted Engineer said:


> Roller Coasters can't stop on a dime without brake stations. But I understand what you mean. Your right.
> 
> What if I put a E-Stop in the cart for the guest in emergency?
> (I was already going to mount one to the back of the cart to kill it during loading.)


That seems ripe for abuse, but an idea to consider.



Haunted Engineer said:


> Didn't you use a controller the adjust the speed of the motors?


I currently do, yes. My motors are connected to an ESC, which is connected to Ch1 of the receiver. Ch1 on the transmitter is a trigger that then controls the motor speed. There's even a switch on the transmitter that reverses polarity to control direction. Ch2 is for typically used for steering, so it's unused in my setup.



Haunted Engineer said:


> (Thinking out loud here. . . )
> What if I use a solenoid-tiny air cylinder (with slow releases) to leverage the go-lever on the RC controller, to a servo motor linked to the Variable speed controller. (So I can still use the PLC to slow start and slow stop the cart.)
> 
> It'd be nice if someone sold a barebones 1 or 2 channel transmitter.


I think you're onto something here. I don't see any reason why you couldn't use servos to essentially operate the controller with the PLC.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Small Update:

I finished designing the (2 or 3) general props for the ride. The intent was to have a general, simple, cheap prop mechanism that could be fitted with whatever prop I wanted (Latex Mask, Small doll, etc.). 
These props will be mounted, in between the studs, in the walls. They will mount horizontally, hence the small bore size on the cylinder.
The overall length of the mech. is 22".


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

So, back to the wireless solution to control the carts motors. 

I came across this on the internet. . . http://www.banggood.com/12V-315MHz-Wireless-Remote-Control-Switch-Transmitter-Receiver-p-952119.html
. . . do you think it is possible to hack this key fob and relay down to control the buttons? 

Then, in the cart the receiver would relay up from 12v to 48v?


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## SedgewickHotel (Nov 3, 2014)

Haunted Engineer said:


> So, back to the wireless solution to control the carts motors.
> 
> I came across this on the internet. . . http://www.banggood.com/12V-315MHz-Wireless-Remote-Control-Switch-Transmitter-Receiver-p-952119.html
> . . . do you think it is possible to hack this key fob and relay down to control the buttons?
> ...


I'm not an expert on RC, but I know that the frequency can be important. The units I've used and had success with both used 2.4GHz frequency. I wouldn't be able to say either way if the 315MHz frequency would be reliable enough for your needs. I just can't tell how susceptible that frequency will be to interference. To be clear, that's not so much a concern, but just an unknown. 

Besides that, this looks to be exactly what you need.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Another Small Update: "Track Change"

The first set of turns and the 2 set were extended both horizontally and depth-wise to allow me to be able to construct a faux wall to break of line-of-sight. 

Before:








After:








Again, the set of turns in the back of the building were done the same way.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

I'm proud to announce I finally got to ride on the cart frame last night while under its own power. 

I just so happened to have a dead'er battery laying beside me so I thought, Hmm . . .

Hooked it up and it carried me around the track (with only one motor hooked up by-the-way) 

Apparently the wheels have no problem gripping the slick metal rail. 

Later on last night I made a stupid decision and hooked the battery up at full charge. . . . . . Yea. . definitely need a speed controller.

The heavy cart went around that track at a runners pace. Quickly had to chase it down and kill it. (I bet that'd make for an interesting ride.)


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## SedgewickHotel (Nov 3, 2014)

Haunted Engineer said:


> Another Small Update: "Track Change"
> 
> The first set of turns and the 2 set were extended both horizontally and depth-wise to allow me to be able to construct a faux wall to break of line-of-sight.
> 
> ...


That looks absolutely amazing! I have track envy. Great work.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Sedgewick, 
Can you send me a link or point me in the right direction for the ESC you used?

Did you go ahead and use two 12v batteries?

Do you have any idea (or anyone that has built one) how many hours you will be able to get out of the batteries?


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## SedgewickHotel (Nov 3, 2014)

Haunted Engineer said:


> Can you send me a link or point me in the right direction for the ESC you used?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Voltage-HV-Speed-Controller-brushed-waterproof-ESC-24V-W-reverse-RC-board-/181907308825?hash=item2a5a854119:g:q18AAOSw5VFWJNTc

This appears to be the same unit I have. But note, it's for BRUSHED motors. If your motors are brushless, this may not work. Also, I imagine any 24V ESC with a high amp rating would likely be adequate, as long as it has the cable that plugs into an RC receiver.



Haunted Engineer said:


> Did you go ahead and use two 12v batteries?


Yeah, I have two 12V batteries connected in a series, serving up 24V. Here is a link to the exact batteries I purchased...

http://www.amazon.com/UPG-UB12350-Group-Battery-Universal/dp/B007Q2CUD0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

However, this setup will hopefully only be temporary until I can get my busbar working.



Haunted Engineer said:


> Do you have any idea (or anyone that has built one) how many hours you will be able to get out of the batteries?


I know the Mystic Motel used batteries, but I don't have any insight into how long they last. The batteries used in electric wheelchairs are designed for prolonged, constant use. Most models I've researched have ranges between 10-15 miles, at a top speed of 4mph. Since a good percentage of time wil be spent stopped in the load area for loading and unloading, I would expect these batteries should last for 3-4 hours of normal ride operation - maybe much longer since you won't be going at full speed. If it were me, I'd have a spare set of fully charged batteries on standby, and have them wired in with quick connects in case I needed to swap them out at some point.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Thank you!!

What about the PWM you first used?


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## SedgewickHotel (Nov 3, 2014)

Haunted Engineer said:


> Thank you!!
> 
> What about the PWM you first used?


I believe this is the same one I puchased, before I fried it by not having an in-line fuse... 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-50V-40A-DC-Motor-Speed-Control-PWM-HHO-RC-Controller-12V-24V-48V-2000W-MAX-/370962506627?hash=item565f16a383:g:LusAAOxyFjNSORPa


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## SedgewickHotel (Nov 3, 2014)

You can check out my wiring diagrams here, on page 7 of my thread. If it's not clear from the pics, the 3-way switch is used in conjunction with the PWM so that I can easily switch from forward to reverse. There is no need for that with the RC/ESC setup.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Small Update:

1st pictures is the track switch mounts I designed and made - getting ready for paint.
2nd is the finished product with the switches mounted.


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## ZombieRaider (May 18, 2008)

First thought would be to check out the arduino button banger project.....These would be cheap enough to build a dedicated arduino for each prop and you could use a simple motion sensor to trigger the prop as the car passed or a switch....Here's some links:

http://buttonbanger.com/?page_id=37
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yotsC8iVkLQ
http://www.hauntforum.com/showthread.php?t=41196
Looking good so far!....Good Luck....ZR



Haunted Engineer said:


> On this particular PLC, the D0-05AA, I only have 6 outputs (8 inputs) all A/C.
> One output, of course, will be to control the carts motor. Another to control a fog machine.
> 
> I'm comfortable writing the logic for this but I'm no expert. And it seems the task of just animating a prop with all of the timers and such is the more complicated route to take. Versus - just have one or two outputs run to one or two relays that control 110v power to a bank of receptacles. Then, from those receptacles run to the track switches and from the track switches to the solenoids. As the cart passes over the switches it activates the solenoids. I can control how long the props stays activated (in miliseconds) by how long of the sensor wire is.
> ...


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Wow! Thank you Zombie Raider for the links. 

The button banger project is completely awesome and their program is something I've been looking for! Love it. I will definitely be adding that to my project at some point.


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## SedgewickHotel (Nov 3, 2014)

Haunted Engineer said:


> Small Update:
> 
> 1st pictures is the track switch mounts I designed and made - getting ready for paint.
> 2nd is the finished product with the switches mounted.
> ...


What kind of switches are these? Sorry if we've already covered this... I cant find any reference to them.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

I got mine from McMaster-Carr.com, only because we buy tons of things there and with normal shipping; it comes before lunch the next day. 
However, you can get these elsewhere for cheaper, I promise.

They are the compact limit switches from "Honeywell."
Part # 7988K3
5amps @ 250V

Different end types are:
Pin Plunger
Roller Plunger
Roller Lever
Adjustable Roller Lever
Adjustable Rod (Works Great!)
Wobble Stick (Works Great!/ Very forgiving!)

All use the same switch body; just different physical ends.


http://www.mcmaster.com/#large-object-limit-switches/=129mpwi


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Small Update:

I was able to cut off the old seat frame from the cart frame. 
Welded up the newly designed (lower) seat frame with a dual battery holder.

Frame is out of prototype stage and is ready for the wooden body.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)




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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

(Still sitting here looking and hoping for a more simpler wireless solution. . . )


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## SedgewickHotel (Nov 3, 2014)

What's the current simplest solution that you're considering? Given that you're using a PLC, I won't be of any help with that, but I have done a ton of research on the various evolution of my own ride, going from manual PWM to RC/ESC, and now to Arduino/XBee.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Alright, I found it; or actually one of our electrical guys pointed it out to me. I asked him yesterday if he knew of any solutions and he sent me this link: https://www.controlanything.com/Relay/Device/MirCR130

Pricey, but it should be solid! (And they are using the XBees, Maguiar suggested to me in the first place.

And this page shows the entire series they offer. 
https://www.controlanything.com/Relay/Relay/MIRC_SERIES

What do you guys think?


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

I thought some of you would like to know I'm working on editing some footage so you can see the progress so far. I intend to post it on Vimeo which its ready.


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## SedgewickHotel (Nov 3, 2014)

Haunted Engineer said:


> Alright, I found it; or actually one of our electrical guys pointed it out to me. I asked him yesterday if he knew of any solutions and he sent me this link: https://www.controlanything.com/Relay/Device/MirCR130
> 
> Pricey, but it should be solid! (And they are using the XBees, Maguiar suggested to me in the first place.
> 
> ...


Seems legit. If you're simply looking for a reliably wireless way of turning the car on/off without any additional logic, I can't think of a better option.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Ok guys, here is some video of the cart under its own power. 

I'm proud to announce I've rode it around about 50 times along with many family members. 

Weight is not an issue and it is capable of driving at a runners pace which I don't recommend. 

It is very strong!

https://vimeo.com/166862719


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## Attic Hatch (Sep 12, 2015)

So great to see it working! 
Kudos!


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## ZombieRaider (May 18, 2008)

Looking Good!....ZR


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## SedgewickHotel (Nov 3, 2014)

Wow, I can't get over how smooth it looks. Watching it is almost mesmerizing. Incredibly impressive. Great work!


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Thanks! 

It’s absolutely fun to ride.
I'm hoping to put the body on this weekend - to see it with the body on, will be pretty exciting.
I'll probably ride it round and round all night. 

I learned one thing that you had mentioned before, Sedgewick - it’s really fun to crank up the speed a little, however, since the ride is so short I have already learned to rev it down really slow to make it worthwhile. 

With that being said, my wife said I could put a full door in the back of the building next year and have a loading area on the side of the building and have it zig-zag in between the trees, in the back yard, and then, make one good path through the building. Probably around 150 feet of track. That will be the toping on the cake. I I'm just hoping in between now and then that my neighbors go through with their plans of building a privacy fence. Then, I can build-a-way without feeling so weird!


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Ok, so it has been awhile. Life has had me busy but in-between moments I've still be working on my ride. 

A few updates. 

I made the final decisions (at least for this year only) to go with the idea of a kill switch that stops the cart at the station. No wireless parts. 
This is what it looks like. 















The mechanism that trips the switch, raises and lowers via a pneumatic cylinder(still not installed.) I took inspiration from a roller coaster brake block. It works 
great! Very simple. The cylinder will always revert back to a raised (extended) position so as to always stop the cart on the next go-around. Even if I was to loose air pressure. 

Another new things is a my steer bogey. I revised it. Looks more professional and this new design takes all of the "play" out of the wheels. Gives a super smooth ride now. Also, it has a bar that pushes the trip wire, of wire switch being laid next to the center rail for accurate tripping of props/computer, whatever. One more thing. I designed a few extra bolt holes where I can add a small bracket that will have a rubber piece bolted to it - to use as a 110V pickup for next year. Simple and effective solution to have a 110V powered rail. (I'll explain later.)
















One more thing. The body is on but it isn't finished. Still playing around with theming ideas.


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## Hallow-art (Jul 20, 2015)

Very cool, my question though-where are you going to put the props? Are you going to do murals on the walls? Can't wait to see it when it's finished


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Hallow-art said:


> Very cool, my question though-where are you going to put the props? Are you going to do murals on the walls? Can't wait to see it when it's finished


I may do a couple of murals, however this year I'm strictly going to focus on the technical side. 
I plan to use a few pneumatic props (tucked) into the walls in about 3 places. (They would retract before the cart was close enough to harm them or the riders.)

Also, a few pneumatic props in the ceiling and maybe one that pops, in from the rear building window. 

Oh yea, I have some HI-FI sound effects, on repeat, in key places, to creep people out along with an over-head sound system with a 300 watt woofer for ambient music/noises/thunder storms. The sound effects work very well even by themselves.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Another small update: by the end of the week I'm taking out one of the drive wheels. Two, I have learned is overkill. 
This would allow me to replace that 8" drive wheel, with a 4" caster on one side or the other, clearing room to put limit switches (track switches) next to the track, about 5" away, on that particular side, so my new steer bogey can trip them. 

(Pictures later this week.)


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## maguiar (Jan 4, 2016)

I really do appreciate the attention to detail that you have put into this project. The steer bogey looks amazing!



Haunted Engineer said:


> View attachment 281370
> 
> View attachment 281371


Jealousy is setting in...


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

[To Maguiar]

lol, Thanks!! 

I really want to put a lot into it, in the beginning, so people don't take it as a joke when they see it. 
I want people to look at it and say, "wow or awesome!"

Plus its always been my dream to do something like this and I know this will probably be as close as I get to it.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Picture showing in detail the relationship between the limit switches and the cart.









Also, here is a picture showing the rear drive bogey with the right drive motor/wheel removed and replaced with a 4" caster wheel. This allowed room for the track switches.


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## maguiar (Jan 4, 2016)

Looks like it's time to open up "Haunted Engineer Engineering".

As I said before, everything looks very professional and sturdy. I like your tension bolt. How tight do you have it to ensure that your traction is adequate?


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## Hallow-art (Jul 20, 2015)

Haunted Engineer said:


> I may do a couple of murals, however this year I'm strictly going to focus on the technical side.
> I plan to use a few pneumatic props (tucked) into the walls in about 3 places. (They would retract before the cart was close enough to harm them or the riders.)
> 
> Also, a few pneumatic props in the ceiling and maybe one that pops, in from the rear building window.
> ...


It really looks great, ppl that come to your house on Halloween are going to really enjoy it. You might be starting a tradition for families this year


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## Hallow-art (Jul 20, 2015)

Haunted Engineer said:


> Ok, so it has been awhile. Life has had me busy but in-between moments I've still be working on my ride.
> 
> A few updates.
> 
> ...


In my opinion, I like the cart as it is in just plain black with just the lantern in front. There's something ominous looking about it and sometimes less is more


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## ravencroft (Jul 6, 2016)

This is unbelievably awesome!! I am so glad you persevered and it's working what an inspiration can't wait to see it with props and such... great, great work


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

maguiar said:


> Looks like it's time to open up "Haunted Engineer Engineering".
> 
> As I said before, everything looks very professional and sturdy. I like your tension bolt. How tight do you have it to ensure that your traction is adequate?


I'd love to open my own shop!

I ordered the eye-bolts from mcmastercarr.com, if you interested I could call up the part #. 
I didn't measure the tension pressure wise. 
What I did though was:
1. take the rear bogey off the track
2. tightened the tension bolt lightly until the two tires met
3. put it back on the track

So, since my track is only a 1/4" wide, I have the much over-force on it. (I know that's not scientific.) 
I would have never believed this if I hadn't done this myself. 
Even on a slick metal rail, 1 drive tire grabs, more than enough, with very little tension on it. (Even with water on the rail, from rain, and 300lbs in the cart.)

Another thought - I like the 1 drive tire design better because it does allow the tire to spin, briefly, on the start. So as to give a soft start.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

ravencroft said:


> This is unbelievably awesome!! I am so glad you persevered and it's working what an inspiration can't wait to see it with props and such... great, great work


Thank you so much. Its been what heck of an project!


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Hallow-art said:


> In my opinion, I like the cart as it is in just plain black with just the lantern in front. There's something ominous looking about it and sometimes less is more


I'll keep that in mind. 

I'm actually starting to think of just trimming the bottom in gray trim and then add my other lantern and call it good. I'm not 100 percent sure yet, though.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Another Update:


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

View attachment 282827


Automation, Here I come. . .


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## coasterbp (Aug 25, 2009)

I forgot, what are you controlling with your PLC? Just your props and effects, correct?

Nice job on the panel though. Panduit and all!

-=CoasterBP


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

The PLC is controlling the:
1. "station brake" to stop/start the cart. 
2. station overhead (flickering) light (the light goes out when to start button is pushed and turns on when the cart hits the front porch(station).
3. fog machine
4. Prop #1
5. Prop #2
6. Prop #3

(There are other triggered props too but wired directly to the track switches.)


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

I'm almost 100% done with the ride system guys!

Now I'm starting to turn my attention to the props/theme and I'm still just kinda hovering as to what to do.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

The Start Button:








Building the Station Brake:








Station Brake Installed (with cart):








Its fully automated now!


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## coasterbp (Aug 25, 2009)

Nicely done! So when the bar is up, the car stops and when it is down, the car moves?

-=CoasterBP


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## maguiar (Jan 4, 2016)

VIDEO'S!!!

Great work, looks awesome.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

coasterbp said:


> Nicely done! So when the bar is up, the car stops and when it is down, the car moves?
> 
> -=CoasterBP


Right, the picture up there is a little deceptive because the cylinder drained down over night but, yes. When the bar is up, it trips the switch killing the cart. 

I have the speed of the cart and the placement of the stop bar fine tuned to where it stops exactly in the center of the loading area.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

I'll probably shoot some video this weekend. So maybe the end of next week. . . maybe


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Also, need some input. . . 

As I turn my attention to prop ideas and the realization that I don't have much room to work with - I have one original prop in mind.

Everyone familiar with *AtmosFX.com*? (I hope so.)

In one corner of the building I thought about putting in a old 3-drawer night stand. Of course, age it and make it look creepy. Then, set a partial doll house, one of the large ones, on it. Throw some old, thrift store dolls, around it. 

Here's the thing. . . Build (cheaply) just the front portion of the doll house and make it fit perfectly with, in my case, a Dell, 23" Flat Panel. Then take the creepy girl and her family, from AtmosFear FX's "Ghostly Apparitions" collection and edit them to where they are in the windows of the doll house. She'll be saying, "Come Play With Me." I could have a spare computer just play it on repeat. Maybe have some cold fog run out of the drawers. . . 

Here is the link to the Ghostly Apparitions - http://atmosfx.com/collections/atmosfearfx/products/ghostly-apparitions

Thoughts?


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## Attic Hatch (Sep 12, 2015)

The doll house thing sounds cool! 
It seems you should have more room to work with ABOVE the riders.
A swinging chandelier, floating furniture, etc.
Apparitions reaching down, spiders, spider cocoons, etc.
FWIW I did a how to on creating lightweight pose-able figures that can be suspended and even bounced against.
Link Here.


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## Attic Hatch (Sep 12, 2015)

While I'm making you work and spending your money  . . 
A book case falling toward the riders might be do-able.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

That is a fantastic idea!!!


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Attic Hatch said:


> While I'm making you work and spending your money  . .
> A book case falling toward the riders might be do-able.


I'm doing that, I have the perfect spot for it! Super Simple to do.


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## coasterbp (Aug 25, 2009)

I have the AtmosFX Apparitions DVD as well. I was going to use them in my dark ride as well. They would take up little to no space, that's why I was going to use projections. Plus, if you control it through your ride control, you can pause your car in front of the projections. Adds to your ride time a little bit! 

Make sure you get some video! You'll thank yourself later!

-=CoasterBP


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## kakugori (Aug 26, 2013)

The dollhouse sounds great. You might also be able to use some of their other projection effects, either the 3d form type or do an up-close rear projection screen thing if you can hide the projector in the right place.

Seems like a good opportunity to do the classic fishing line "webs" trick. Let 'em dangle down from the ceiling and just brush the people in the cart. I'd recommend something like "smoke" fireline or another black or gray colored line, or just giving it a spritz of black spraypaint so that it's harder to see. It's more a creepy uncomfortable thing than scary, cheap but effective.

One of my other favorite dark ride elements is bang doors (or crash doors) at the beginning or end. Dunno if you've got room for that - maybe at the exit?
And a classic "shock" scare, like a sudden appearance of a bright light and a loud noise that will get the heartbeat up. In the dark ride I grew up with, this came in the form of the cut off front of a city bus, complete with skeleton driver. Turn a tight corner, boom! Lights and horn. Perhaps a figure hidden behind a sheet of mirror film, like in this haunted mirror project.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

kakugori said:


> The dollhouse sounds great. You might also be able to use some of their other projection effects, either the 3d form type or do an up-close rear projection screen thing if you can hide the projector in the right place.
> 
> Seems like a good opportunity to do the classic fishing line "webs" trick. Let 'em dangle down from the ceiling and just brush the people in the cart. I'd recommend something like "smoke" fireline or another black or gray colored line, or just giving it a spritz of black spraypaint so that it's harder to see. It's more a creepy uncomfortable thing than scary, cheap but effective.
> 
> ...


Thanks. I would love to do more projection effects. In fact, I intended to have a triggered smoke screen with one of the screaming skulls from Atmosfear Fx. But now that I can ride it, I see there isn't enough room to do it or any other projection effects. About the only thing I can do is use Flat Panel Monitors hidden in various themed spots so that kind of slims me down on the High Tech effects. Kind of disappointed but, oh well. 

My basic list of props, which is still a work in progress are (in no correct order): Static Wall Prop with Light, An air blast from the ceiling, My haunted Doll House, Pneumatic Prop from the rear window, and Prop with light and buzzer, . . . and that's about it right now. My creative juices aren't flowing much right now. 

Must also note, I have an entire building sound system with woofer and a few amplified spots for unique pin spot type sound effects.


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## ZombieRaider (May 18, 2008)

You could get a fair amount of depth by using chroma 3d paint as I mentioned earlier and also a technique called forced perspective....A good example of forced perspective would be the cemetery scene at Knoebels Haunted House.....










Notice how the tombstones behind the full size person is only about 2 or 3 inches and get smaller as they go closer to the wall....The trees are simply painted on the wall....When the lights are dimmed low, the scene really does look much larger than it actually is....I was shocked the first time I saw "lights on" photos.... just how small the area actually was....Not sure you saw the 14 X 32 building I set up but one thing that was a huge help making it not feel confined was painting all the walls and ceiling black....That took away the dimensions....In the dark everything was black and I only highlighted what I wanted people to see....I had more than one person step outside to look at how small the building was and tell me they couldn't believe I packed all that into such a small building and it didn't feel confined....I really believe painting everything black to take away the dimensions made it work....Here's the video in case you haven't seen it.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lg3tHE2Om3U
Finally, I'm sure you've probably already read a bunch of the dark ride articles at the Laff In The Dark site but that's a fantastic place to go for inspiration on tricks that don't take up a lot of space...Even bigger dark rides have space issues and they've got some really clever ways of dealing with it like the forced perspective that I mentioned.....If you go to the Laff In The Dark articles, you'll get plenty of ideas.....It's looking great so far.....Good Luck!.....ZR


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## Pumpkinsandspiders (Jun 23, 2016)

What about a projection of a haunted tombstone.Theres Mr.Chickens. And free one on YouTube.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

]Major Update: 9/16/2016

Unfortunately, I am pulling the plug on the project. At least for this Halloween. 
I'm tired of stressing over the still long to-do list before Halloween gets here. 
Not to mention, life has thrown a hefty curve ball - Monday, my wife will start Chemo, so . . . 
She has a really bad case of Lupus plus about 20 other things wrong. (She didn’t want me to stop the project but . . .)

Anyways, that being said. I'm not going to actually stop the project. 
As a matter of fact, I have in the works several cool things.

1. I just ordered the wireless relay from, "ControlAnything.com" so that I can control the cart directly from the PLC. (Which is great because now I can start/stop the cart for different scenes and make the ride last longer.)

2. I am pulling the body back off and welding in an Electrical Panel Mount, on the rear, that is welded directly to the frame. The panel will house every electrical component in the cart besides the batteries and motors. (Ex. Switches, 24vto12v Convertors, Bus Bars, Wireless Relay Card, etc.) 
The advantage to doing this is organization and ease of diagnosing problems. All it takes for removing the panel would be four thumb screws and the panel slides out revealing all of the components. 

3. An automatic lap bar setup. 

4. A load/unload area with 20ft of straight track. (Because it will be located on the side of the building.)
The straight track will make it easier for the automatic lap bar mechanism that will rise up in the load/unload zone.

5. Besides the additional 20ft. of straight track in the load/unload zone, there will be an another 20ft. of curbed track added to the rear of the building, outside) to facilitate the car going into a rear door of the building and out the front door of the building. (This will allow me more prop room and enough room to actually add doors.)

6. A professional looking Ride Control Panel.

So, all in all, when Halloween rolls around next year, I will be plenty prepared to run many people through it and not worry about break downs, but rather enjoy it to the fullest. Plus, this will give me plenty of time to work on some unique props put inside the ride. 

P.S. – Before I break down the entire track, I do plan to shoot some footage and post it sometime next week for all to see!
Let me know your thoughts and comments.


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## coasterbp (Aug 25, 2009)

Sorry to hear about your wife! Wishing you and your wife the best! Looking forward to your progress for next year!

-=CoasterBP


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## Ugly Joe (Jan 13, 2004)

I wish nothing but the best for your wife and yourself - your project can wait. Other things are far more important.


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## maguiar (Jan 4, 2016)

Hang in there my friend. Thinking happy thoughts for your wife and family.


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## Attic Hatch (Sep 12, 2015)

So Sorry to hear about your wife!
Yep -all said and done, this is just a hobby.
All the best of luck with everything!


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Thanks everyone. 

Here is the video footage I promised. 
You will see the drive bogey wobbling - I should have tightened it before shooting but. . . enjoy. 

https://vimeo.com/183364114


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## WOLFPACK7483 (Apr 29, 2013)

My man, this is beyond awesome. Great job !


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Small Update:
I guess I was bored so I went to my local LOWES and found some plastic junction boxes that I thought would work nicely for an Operator Control Panel. I did, I found an 8x8x4 for $22. 
So I came up with a simple 4 button/indicator layout. 
Green Indicator - comes on with the cart motor. 
Yellow push button - your main start/go. 
E-Stop – kills the carts motor and turns a floodlight on inside the building.
2-Stage selector – Left side is for “Ride Mode” and the right side is for “Storage Mode”.

“Ride Mode” simply tells the cart to look for the sensor at the load/unload station and stop.
“Storage Mode” does the same except looks for another sensor inside to call home. 







I need your comments on the Graphics I put together for the panel. 








Also, I thought I already showed everyone this but. . . I bit the bullet and bought the XBEE transmitter/receiver cards for a 30Amp 24V system. Once I get my electrical panel cut for the cart I will finish the installation and then the PLC will be able to control the cart directly.


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## coasterbp (Aug 25, 2009)

Not to make you worry or do more updates, but I check this site at least twice a day for updates on ALL the dark ride projects. Love it.

-=CoasterBP


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

coasterbp said:


> Not to make you worry or do more updates, but I check this site at least twice a day for updates on ALL the dark ride projects. Love it.
> 
> -=CoasterBP


Good, enthusiasm keeps us all going.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

For the ones actually building their own versions of the ride, you need to know how well the "_*XBee Wireless Relay Mirror Pair *_with 1 Contact Closure Input and Receiver with 1 Relay 30-Amp SPST," are. 

I finally got the transmitter wire into my plastic electrical can last night. I had a little trouble because I was completely out of room on the rails, so I mounted it on the door. 

It worked on the first try.
And as an example as to how strong the signal is, I did this:
1. Closed the door to the electrical can to seal off the transmitter.
(FYI - the can is in a wooden building 50ft. from my house)
2. Powered up the receiver/relay inside my kitchen.
(Both cards have to be powered up and see each other before they will trip the relay)
The cards worked flawlessly through the can, wooden walls, and house walls. 
That's with the tiny built-in antenna that comes standard on both cards

Just saying - if you want a reliable wireless relay, go this route. I'm super excited to get the relay wired into my cart. 

https://www.controlanything.com/Relay/Device/MirCR130

Remember, they make cards with different amperage sizes and numbers of relays.


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## KrazyHorrorKid (Sep 5, 2016)

Damn dude This looks awesome! I wish I could build something like this but I dont have a big budget!


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

(This new size limit on pictures is very irritating!)

I want to post an update but I have now have to process my pictures, first?


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Update: 10/12/2016

The party is back on and the family is helping me get things ready. 

I even lite a spark of home-haunting in my dad and younger brother. 

I got my panels for the, "Electrical Panel" for the cart. (So I could easily organize and maintain the components.)
Here is a reverse shot of the actual panel. 







Here is the panel mounted on the back of the cart via 4 - 1/4" bolts/thumbs nuts.







Once I got that all hooked up, nice and neat, I ran it around the track. But I forgot to tie up of some loose wires. Ripped the speed controller nearly off the panel. 







All is well, Last night I got my new speed controller in and wired it up. Cart runs like a dream. 

Also, I got the operator panel wired up and wired into the main electrical can. 








Many more updates after this weekend. . .


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## SedgewickHotel (Nov 3, 2014)

Everything looks great! I love the background for your control panel. That's really slick. Can't wait to see more progress!!


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## SedgewickHotel (Nov 3, 2014)

Am I the only one absolutely aching for an update?! I'm so excited to see how everything turned out!!


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

LOL, I've been wanting to update everyone but haven't had the time to sit down and write it all out!

1st Party I ever threw and it went fantastic. Everyone loved it, and the Ride ran flawlessly! 

Total time ride ran was about 4-1/2 hours. 
Time the cart went around track - 64 times. (Track length - 82')
Rider weights ranging from, 94lbs. - all the way up to 510lbs. 

I plan to write a larger post and get some video of the ride at night and during the day for everyone to see.

That being said I'm not through this year. I have to run it again next Saturday night (11/12/2016) because my older brother and his family are driving down so we can have a family grill-out. 

Learned a lot! Can't wait to post it (probably after Monday, (11/7/2016)

I actually saw a teenage farm-boy ball up like a baby and 50'something laugh and shriek. Complete success.


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## SedgewickHotel (Nov 3, 2014)

Ok, I think we've all been patient enough. Time for the recap!!!!


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

LOL, sorry guys. Life is just blowing by right now. 

Here is the video I promised. 

https://vimeo.com/197295432


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## Robin Graves (Aug 12, 2011)

You did a great job.


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## maguiar (Jan 4, 2016)

Haunted Engineer said:


> LOL, sorry guys. Life is just blowing by right now.
> 
> Here is the video I promised.
> 
> https://vimeo.com/197295432


Awesome! Great work my friend, can't wait to see what's next.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Alright guys, I'm back. I have completely rebuilt my electrical/control panel. 
I am proud of how well it looks. ( I will post pictures in the next few days.)

I added a larger porch to the front of the building to allow for a proper Load/Unloading dock. 

I was thinking this year - instead of the winding track, just have a straight in - straight out track. 
With that being said, there will be probably two different spots where the cart will stops and run through a show element to make the right longer. 

Since I work around a lot of industrial things, pipes, flange, valve, etc. I figured it would be super easy for me to replicate a lot of those parts from PVC (for pipes) and wood (for the flanges). So, imagine an old rusted-industrial setting, similar to the boiler room scene in, Freddy Krueger.

With that in mind, here is roughly what I would like to see happen this year. As soon as the cart enters the door, emergency alarms go off and the ride pretends to shut down. After that, maybe one of the flanges or valves leaks - blowing out "steam" right in front of the cart. Then, for a few moments, you get a glimpse of, something-someone, at the end of the building and then it all blacks out again. Immediately you get a voice-over of the grandmother from the movie, The Visit, saying, " I'm gonna getcha", as you hear several door-knocker type pneumatics popping in succession toward you from the back of the building. . .with some sort of climax for that section. . . 

Then the cart continues through going through a couple triggered props until it turn around and starts toward the front of the building and a whole other scene takes place. . . 

I'd love to hear your thoughts and inputs . . .


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## Attic Hatch (Sep 12, 2015)

I've been following this thread and for some reason I only got notified of new posts today for the 1st time since October (!?)
So glad you were able to pull this off in 2016, given ALL the amazing hard work you invested! 
Turned out great!!.
I have a way to have a light weight figure that would dangle and shake from above. 
I could really picture it being applied here.
Let me know if you want to know more.

ANYHOW - LOVE what you did and look forward to seeing the changes/additions this year!


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Attic Hatch said:


> I've been following this thread and for some reason I only got notified of new posts today for the 1st time since October (!?)
> So glad you were able to pull this off in 2016, given ALL the amazing hard work you invested!
> Turned out great!!.
> I have a way to have a light weight figure that would dangle and shake from above.
> ...


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Attic Hatch said:


> I've been following this thread and for some reason I only got notified of new posts today for the 1st time since October (!?)
> So glad you were able to pull this off in 2016, given ALL the amazing hard work you invested!
> Turned out great!!.
> I have a way to have a light weight figure that would dangle and shake from above.
> ...


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Well, I was going to post new pictures but now I remember why I quit blogging back in December. 
I can't see to upload any pictures. . . .


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Guys I may have to find a modern blog to track my progress on the dark ride. 
Anyone have any good suggestions for free, easy-to-use blogs?


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## victor-eyd (Aug 13, 2007)

wordpress.org perhaps


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

I'm back . . . !
I have a longer track (outside section) in progress as well as a show controller-electrical-cabinet (complete), professional voice-over work in the voice of Vincent Price (complete), a new cart (80% complete) , and a few knew props in the works. . . 
Hopefully I can get some pictures up this weekend if the website allows them again.


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## ZombieRaider (May 18, 2008)

Haunted Engineer said:


> Hopefully I can get some pictures up this weekend if the website allows them again.


The problem I run into when trying to upload pictures to this forum are the files are too big....Even when taking photos with my phone, they are too big.....I ended up making a new folder called Halloween Forum pics and then taking the time to open each picture I want to post, using the snipping tool in windows to screen capture a new picture and save it in the Halloween Forum pics folder....Those pics are a small enough file size that Halloween Forum uploader excepts them....I know the extra step sucks but I've found success using this method.....Youtube links seem to be the best alternative for video...Good Luck....Interested in the new pics......ZR


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

So, for anyone who noticed, I said I was back. However, anytime I try to work on my projects and post pictures life happens. My wife has been fighting Lupus among other things her whole life and the past 8 years she’s continuously gotten worse. She getting a feeding tube in next week to keep her going for a bit more. 
However, I actually have a calm moment and I have some pictures I wanted to post.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

I actually made this last year. It’s an Electrical Cabinet SHOCK prop. It has an electrical fire cracker in it, fog machine and a ram that bust the door open. Its really awesome at night. I can’t run it much though because the firecracker echoes through the neighborhood. Most of the parts were leftovers that I had laying away. So, instead of them laying around and probably getting trampled over, I made this. I just realized though I need a picture of it while it activates. I’ll work on that.
And yes, this was very much cobbled together as you see.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

View attachment 539865

View attachment 539873

View attachment 539881


I have been working on this off and on about a year. Its finished - other than the body. The body will come later toward Halloween. Its an all new designed cart frame. It has an amplified audio system that is wireless and just for fun, a lap bar that is real. There is a cam under the car that allows the track to release and hold the lap bar open in the load/unload area.

Oh yea, you can see in at least one picture the new outdoor section of track which allows me to create an, “emergency stop” inside the building. So, the entire building turns into one big show piece. A clever way to turn 120 feet of track into a 3-minute ride. The lap bar was a part of the phycological effect of being locked in a pitch-black room with interactive props that you can’t see. Think; 4-D Nightmare ride. Should freak people out!


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

View attachment 539889

View attachment 539897


My January project! A show-controller enclosure. I got the Boo-box controller from Fright-Props. Since process-controls in one of my jobs I just built a pro cabinet around the controller. Eight 24v relays, eight 120v relays and 16 servos plus 100+ channels of DMX. This will run the show inside the building. Perfectly timed show props plus my custom designed animatronic will play back in sync with some awesome show audio!


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

View attachment 539905

View attachment 539913

View attachment 539921

View attachment 539929

View attachment 539937


Here is the project that I have always wanted to design/build. Growing up, I always wanted to be a Disney Imagineer. I never made it. Its ok though. God had a different path for me. Still hands-on; 3D designer, mechanical engineer and process controls technician in the Nuclear Waste field. The problem always was my ADHD. I can make big university graduates look dumb but I can’t sit still long enough to get a formal degree and Disney is all about formality; must have that useless piece of paper. My family and I always knew I had it but we weren’t educated enough to make any good decisions about it until a month ago. I went had was formally diagnosed with it, among other things. My first animatronic. It’s a general humanoid torso the raises to an average human standing height. The very bottom cylinder can raise him up slowly or in the blink of an eye. The next cylinder controls torso, lean forward and back. His shoulders are also pneumatic so he has the ability to shrug his shoulders. His head movements; tilt forward, back and turn left and right are servo controlled so as to get life-like movement. His eyes and mouth and anything else I decide to add to his head will also be servo controlled. His arm movements are a mix of pneumatic and servo. She show-controlled I posted earlier will control him. As shown, I haven't mounted his head or arms yet but they are there laying around. I designed him so I can re-theme him each year. I also would like to take him to local school and show kids, through a presentation, that there is possibilities other than the norm that they are taught. (FYI, our schools are very lame and do not prep you enough for the future. If you are not a cheerleader and/or baseball/football player, no attention is paid to you. They don't care about the unique kids that have great talent that don't fit inside their idea of greatness.)


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Sorry for the messed-up pics. I notified the admin. Maybe they will fix the issue. If not then, this is probably my last posts.


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## ZombieRaider (May 18, 2008)

I just went to your profile and looked but don't see any uploaded albums....You have to make an album before posting pics...Did you see my post about snipping pictures first to make the file size small enough for it to except it for upload?....Once you have an album uploaded you go into the album and click a pic you want to upload...Scroll down until you see the BB code and copy and paste it into your post....I usually open 2 tabs, one for composing my post and another for finding the pic I want to post in my album, clicking on it to open it to see the BB code, right click copy....Go back to my other tab that has the post I'm composing, right click and paste the BB code....Repeat until all pics are linked.....Good Luck...ZR

PS - Here's an example from my album -


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## chocolatemice (May 2, 2014)

Haunted Engineer said:


> Alright guys, I'm back. I have completely rebuilt my electrical/control panel.
> I am proud of how well it looks. ( I will post pictures in the next few days.)
> 
> I added a larger porch to the front of the building to allow for a proper Load/Unloading dock.
> ...


This is SPECTACULAR. I love the first version, and the emergency stop version sounds like so much fun! 

I'm in serious awe how you made this all come together. If you do decide to start your own blog, Wordpress is very easy to use. You might run into some of the same image storage issues (3gb free storage), but it's worth looking into. If you decide to start your own blog, please give us the address! 

Also, my best wishes to you and your wife -


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Yes, I looked at your post. Thank you. Snipping worked. . . .initially. Then a day later the pictures became errors. 
I'm sorry but I have never had to create an album before. I have always uploaded the picture from the reply box - attachment icon. 
If I get time, I'll go back and repost everything. I hate that I wasted so much time though.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

(REPOST)


























I have been working on this off and on about a year. Its finished - other than the body. The body will come later toward Halloween. Its an all new designed cart frame. It has an amplified audio system that is wireless and just for fun, a lap bar that is real. There is a cam under the car that allows the track to release and hold the lap bar open in the load/unload area. (I just noticed the seat cushion is missing in these pics.)

Oh yea, you can see in at least one picture the new outdoor section of track which allows me to create an, “emergency stop” inside the building. So, the entire building turns into one big show piece. A clever way to turn 120 feet of track into a 3-minute ride. The lap bar was a part of the phycological effect of being locked in a pitch-black room with interactive props that you can’t see. Think; 4-D Nightmare ride. Should freak people out!


----------



## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

(REPOST)


















My January project! A show-controller enclosure. I got the Boo-box controller from Fright-Props. Since process-controls in one of my jobs I just built a pro cabinet around the controller. Eight 24v relays, eight 120v relays and 16 servos plus 100+ channels of DMX. This will run the show inside the building. Perfectly timed show props plus my custom designed animatronic will play back in sync with some awesome show audio!


----------



## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

(REPOST)










































Here is the project that I have always wanted to design/build. Growing up, I always wanted to be a Disney Imagineer. I never made it. Its ok though. God had a different path for me. Still hands-on; 3D designer, mechanical engineer and process controls technician in the Nuclear Waste field. The problem always was my ADHD. I can make big university graduates look dumb but I can’t sit still long enough to get a formal degree and Disney is all about formality; must have that useless piece of paper. My family and I always knew I had it but we weren’t educated enough to make any good decisions about it until a month ago. I went had was formally diagnosed with it, among other things. My first animatronic. It’s a general humanoid torso the raises to an average human standing height. The very bottom cylinder can raise him up slowly or in the blink of an eye. The next cylinder controls torso, lean forward and back. His shoulders are also pneumatic so he has the ability to shrug his shoulders. His head movements; tilt forward, back and turn left and right are servo controlled so as to get life-like movement. His eyes and mouth and anything else I decide to add to his head will also be servo controlled. His arm movements are a mix of pneumatic and servo. She show-controlled I posted earlier will control him. As shown, I haven't mounted his head or arms yet but they are there laying around. I designed him so I can re-theme him each year. I also would like to take him to local school and show kids, through a presentation, that there is possibilities other than the norm that they are taught. (FYI, our schools are very lame and do not prep you enough for the future. If you are not a cheerleader and/or baseball/football player, no attention is paid to you. They don't care about the unique kids that have great talent that don't fit inside their idea of greatness.)


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

For anyone doing the, DIY Dark-Ride, check this out!
These are pictures I took of the steer bogeys from the ride: Quadzilla, made by Majestic. 
Check out the solution to the electrical pick-ups the carnies came up with. 
They used, "sawzall" blades, as the spring arms for the actual electrical pick-ups.
That's ingenious because at any town/stop, they can go to any hardware store or Wal-Mart and pickup a pack of blades to repair the electrical pick-ups. 
Thoughts? . . . .


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## ZombieRaider (May 18, 2008)

Thanks for re-posting....Everything looks well thought out and organized....I can certainly appreciate the amount of resources that went into each one of those projects....This is an ambitious undertaking for sure.....I wish I had the resources for a dark ride but it's not happening so I guess I'll just have to watch your updates....Thanks again for taking the time and everything is looking great!....Good job!...ZR


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Heck yea, thanks for the reply!

This is my only outlet for this type of stuff.
No one in my area, family included, have much of an appreciation for this type of stuff. 
I love it and is helps me wind down. 

If your curious about any details, I'd be happy to explain in greater detail about any of it.


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## ZombieRaider (May 18, 2008)

I've noticed out of all my hobbies, people appreciate Halloween the least.....It's frustrating for sure...My fascination with Halloween actually started with a dark ride when I was 4 years old one summer at Ocean City, Md....My sister dragged me on, I cried, was scared....Once I got past that, I wondered how they made it work....That dark ride is still there today though it's nothing like the first time I rode it, it's still an awesome ride....I was so happy when Brandon http://www.ochh.net/ started his web site about the haunted house dark ride in the most boring detail...I spent hours reading about everything from how it works to invoices showing what Granville Trimper originally paid for props, cars, etc in 1964!....They have moved updates to Facebook so I don't stay up to date much anymore....I'm hoping to go to Knoebels this year, it's been a few years since I've been there...They have 2 dark rides that are pretty cool....ZR


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## BJS036 (Oct 21, 2012)

This is so awesome. I can't believe I didn't find it earlier. Are you posting somewhere else? Would love to see more.
Keep up the great work.


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## Hallow-art (Jul 20, 2015)

ZombieRaider said:


> I've noticed out of all my hobbies, people appreciate Halloween the least.....It's frustrating for sure...My fascination with Halloween actually started with a dark ride when I was 4 years old one summer at Ocean City, Md....My sister dragged me on, I cried, was scared....Once I got past that, I wondered how they made it work....That dark ride is still there today though it's nothing like the first time I rode it, it's still an awesome ride....I was so happy when Brandon http://www.ochh.net/ started his web site about the haunted house dark ride in the most boring detail...I spent hours reading about everything from how it works to invoices showing what Granville Trimper originally paid for props, cars, etc in 1964!....They have moved updates to Facebook so I don't stay up to date much anymore....I'm hoping to go to Knoebels this year, it's been a few years since I've been there...They have 2 dark rides that are pretty cool....ZR


Something you might appreciate, Knoebel's recently did an auction to benefit a FL children's charity and winners were treated to a walking tour with the lights on of the Haunted House. It happened last month and there is a video on YouTube worth checking out!


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## ZombieRaider (May 18, 2008)

Hallow-art said:


> Something you might appreciate, Knoebel's recently did an auction to benefit a FL children's charity and winners were treated to a walking tour with the lights on of the Haunted House. It happened last month and there is a video on YouTube worth checking out!


I got a newsletter in the mail from DAFE about a month prior to the event but I didn't sign up since cash had been tight and wanted to do some other things....I did go to the event they had 5 years before that when they were just finishing the Black Diamond dark ride and went through a lights on tour of that...It was a memorable experience for sure!....I didn't think to check for video of this latest event so Thanks for the heads up!.....It was a great video!...I wish it was more complete but I understand out of respect for the event, they didn't want to show the entirety of it....My favorite room is the graveyard....I love the forced perspective views....Some of the best examples I've ever seen of the technique!....Thanks again...ZR


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

So, for the ones still following my progress, here ya go. 
The outside track additions are done. 
There is close to 50 foot of additional track added for this years, and the coming years.

http://www.halloweenforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=549591&d=1528483822
http://www.halloweenforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=549593&d=1528483822
http://www.halloweenforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=549597&d=1528483822
http://www.halloweenforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=549599&d=1528483822
http://www.halloweenforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=549601&d=1528483836


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Here is the track layout for this year and probably the next five years. 
http://www.halloweenforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=549603&d=1528485932


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## ZombieRaider (May 18, 2008)

That's awesome!...Are you going for cemetery in the outside area?......ZR


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## Lukewa (Sep 14, 2014)

I'm seriously in awe. This is so flipping cool!


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Actually, I'm not sure what to do with the new area outside.

This years theme is Industrial/Clown. . .


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Lukewa said:


> I'm seriously in awe. This is so flipping cool!


Thanks! Its been fun.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

So if you don't know already. The cart will come to a stop inside the building to run through a 4D type of show, making the ride about 3 minutes long. 

However, now that I have got the track and cart programmed and rolling. I'm going to have to take inspiration from some larger rides. I have to design a arm, that rises out of the floor, so the cart locks into while the show is playing. This way the riders don't go to far and get in the way of the props. Also, it will keep the cart from sliding backwards as the building isn't sitting level. More details to come. . .


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## stick (Apr 2, 2009)

WOW I just saw this and have to say what a great job you have done building this ride. I sure all that ride it truly enjoys all of your hard work that has gone into making it what it is and I look forward to seeing your updates on it.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

stick said:


> WOW I just saw this and have to say what a great job you have done building this ride. I sure all that ride it truly enjoys all of your hard work that has gone into making it what it is and I look forward to seeing your updates on it.


Thank you!
Last year I wasn't able to run it due to illness. So many people were disappointed. Some were even mad! lol


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## BileFreeze (Jun 12, 2018)

What an incredible undertaking. You are one dedicated and talented individual.


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## McBernes (Mar 10, 2015)

Holy crap dude! That is incredible! There is this guy who has a youtube channel called The Carpetbagger. He goes around the country checking out amusement parks, roadside attractions and things like that. He seems a really cool guy and I think what you're working on would be right up his alley. You should contact him and see if he would do a video of your ride when it is finished. He's got over 100k subscribers, so you would get a lot of exposure for your ride.


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## ZombieRaider (May 18, 2008)

McBernes said:


> There is this guy who has a youtube channel called The Carpetbagger.


CarpetBagger, Adam the Woo, Justin Scarred, etc.....I watch them all!....If it wasn't for my wife, I wouldn't even have regular TV anymore....LOL.....ZR


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

McBernes said:


> Holy crap dude! That is incredible! There is this guy who has a youtube channel called The Carpetbagger. He goes around the country checking out amusement parks, roadside attractions and things like that. He seems a really cool guy and I think what you're working on would be right up his alley. You should contact him and see if he would do a video of your ride when it is finished. He's got over 100k subscribers, so you would get a lot of exposure for your ride.


Wow, never would have thought about that.
That would be awesome if that could happen.
It'd be great for them to "document" it instead of me doing it. 
It would let me concentrate on building the ride instead of trying to show it off to everyone.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

ZombieRaider said:


> CarpetBagger, Adam the Woo, Justin Scarred, etc.....I watch them all!....If it wasn't for my wife, I wouldn't even have regular TV anymore....LOL.....ZR


I haven't been on YouTube a whole lot, but Adam the Woo, did catch my attention one day and I started to watch him daily! I miss those vlogs.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

So, here is the, "Cart lock-in" that holds the cart still while the 4D show is playing. . . I'm hoping to get the parts this week and weld it all together and get it into the floor to test it out.

https://www.halloweenforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=550373&d=1529950917
Yellow = the front steer bogey
Black = track section

https://www.halloweenforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=550375&d=1529950917

https://www.halloweenforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=550371&d=1529950917


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## McBernes (Mar 10, 2015)

Over the last week or so I've been doing little marathons of The Daily Woo. I'm almost up to day 300 lol. The Carpetbagger has been doing a lot of live streams lately that are cool too. Thanks for posting you progress, I'll keep checking this thread to stay up to date with what you're doing!


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

AMPERAGE - CART ELECTRICAL

To the ones who are building their version of the dark ride.
I've been wondering if a 40amp PWM controller and 30amp breakers were necessary for the cart electrical. 
So, I check the amp rating while the cart was under normal load condition. 
Here is what I found.

Cart weight; 265lbs.
With 2 people: 250lbs.
Total weight: 515lbs.
1 "wheelchair motor" only (unlike 2 motors on most others)

Initial amp rating: 3.5 amps
Running amp rating: 2.4 amps

Of course, more weight will draw more amps which the cart has no problem with what-so-ever.
So, is a 40 amp PWM controller and a 30 amp breaker too much. 
I'm thinking yes. Its too much.


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## maguiar (Jan 4, 2016)

Haunted Engineer said:


> AMPERAGE - CART ELECTRICAL
> 
> To the ones who are building their version of the dark ride.
> I've been wondering if a 40amp PWM controller and 30amp breakers were necessary for the cart electrical.
> ...


Hi There HE, long time in between chaats, hope all is well.

Not sure that I can offer much help here as I used two wheelchair motors and my peak was 15A, and running was 7A. Good thing to note is that the car was running on a surface that was far from level so a lot of uphill and downhill variations.

Both motors, the cars audio, and lighting systems ran off of a 24V 20A switching power supply plugged into a 120V 20A receptacle and I never had a problem. The 24V PWM that controlled the motors was rated for 30 Amps.

Love the expansion, can't wait to see how everything turns out.


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## Haunted Engineer (Dec 8, 2015)

Maguiar:

That's wild that there is that much of a difference on amperage between our setups.

The reason I was curious was because I want to redo my electrical components again.
This time, put them in an electrical enclosure mounted on the cart as so they will last much longer and be easier to maintenance them.
I was curious because I wanted to make sure the terminal blocks, breakers and switch could handle the amperage. 
When i saw how little it was, I got excited.
But after hearing how much your setup is drawing, makes me doubt my readings. 

Remind me though, did you have a powered railed system?


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## maguiar (Jan 4, 2016)

HE:

Yes, drastic, but I am using two motors and my floor was not as smooth. Also, I disconnected the solenoid brake release on the motors after my readings so that will have a lot to do with the higher amperages as well.

You are correct, I did use a powered rail system.


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