# Monster Mudding with UnOrthodOx: The Chimera Tutorial.



## UnOrthodOx

Monster mud has been around for quite a while, and there's lots of information out there already. 

My intentions for this tutorial are 2 fold: 

1: condense that information to one source
2: provide a tutorial on my construction methods

This is going to take some time to put together (since it's going to be following a build) and there may be comments in between posts, so I'm making a directory here in the top post. (for now it's a what's coming up, I'll be adding links as I get the other posts done.)

*General Chimera Technique Tutorial*

Monster Mud Basics
Building with Burlap
Alternatives to Monster Mud?
What is a Chimera?  
Designing with light in mind. 

*The Barghest step by step.*

The Barghest: Concept and Frame
The Barghest: Head and Hind
[url="http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/125072-monster-mudding-unorthodox-chimera-tutorial-3.html#post1428329]The Barghest: Ribs and Carapace[/url]
[url="http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/125072-monster-mudding-unorthodox-chimera-tutorial-4.html#post1431274]The Barghest: Left Arm[/url]
[url="http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/125072-monster-mudding-unorthodox-chimera-tutorial-4.html#post1433426]The Barghest: Right Arm[/url]
[url="http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/125072-monster-mudding-unorthodox-chimera-tutorial-4.html#post1436264]The Barghest: Neck and Tail[/url]
[url="http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/125072-monster-mudding-unorthodox-chimera-tutorial-4.html#post1438023]The Barghest: Final Touches[/url]

*The Ghost of Christmas Yet to Come Step by Step.*
 Ghost of Christmas Yet to Come: Concept


----------



## UnOrthodOx

*Monster Mud Basics.*

*What is Monster Mud?*  

Monster mud is nothing more than a mixture of drywall joint compound and paint. 

Here are some tutorials on mixing it:
http://www.twistedvisions.org/index22.htm
http://terrorsyndicate.com/demos_page_8.html

Most tutorials you will encounter tell you that you want 1 gallon of paint to a 5 gallon bucket of drywall compound. 

Truth is, there is no magic formula, just mix some of each and start to play. If you want to be fighting to try to fit 6 gallons of stuff into a 5 gallon bucket, more power to you. My own recipe is:

1 5 gallon bucket.
1 BOX of drywall compound. 
1 gallon latex paint. 

If you are wondering how I come up with this recipe...


The BOX of drywall compound is about $4 cheaper than the Bucket. I don't need to continue to buy new buckets.
The BOX of drywall compound is about 4 gallons so everything actually FITS into the 5 gallon bucket. (dont ask me why Home Depot is listing it as six gallons, compare the weight to the 5 gallon bucket if you don't believe me)
I actually prefer the thinner mixture.

Here's a pic of a fresh batch using my recipe. Note how much room we have:










A good example of the more traditional recipe can be found in Widowmakerproduction's video in this post:

http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutor...er-mudding-unorthodox-chimera-tutorial-3.html

The real question is what do you want to DO with Monster mud? 

The most common construction method with monster mud is dipping fabric into it. 

You've probably heard of burlap being used, and we'll get more into that in a minute, but virtually any fabric is fair game. 

Muslin dipped in monster mud:










Cheese cloth covered in monster mud breast plate, yarn dipped in monster mud to make 'medusa'.










Monster mud and burlap suit of armor.










And cloth is not all. 

Terra puts monster mud into a wig in her Beloved tutorial.

Here's an ingenious facade made of monster mud.

Your limits are really down to your own imagination. 


*Is Monster Mud water proof?*  

Let me say this once to be clear. 

*NO!* 

It can be quite water RESISTANT, especially if you used a good quality exterior paint in the mix. But, it is NOT waterproof/weatherproof unless you go to some length to seal it up tight. Drylok, urethane, good exterior paint coat. Something other than just monster mud or water will eventually take it's toll. 


*What about this 'light weight' joint compound?*  

Yes, it will work to make monster mud, and it will be somewhat lighter than a piece made out of all purpose compound. 

However, light weight compound is made to be EASILY SANDED, and will be a softer finish more prone to dings and bumps. This could be a good thing, or a bad thing depending on your project.


----------



## UnOrthodOx

*Building with Burlap.*  

You've probably heard of or seen items built with burlap. Usually with monster mud. I encourage you to give it a try yourself. It's fun, quick, and relatively easy. 

There's actually a bit to think about before you go run off to find burlap, however. What kind of finish do you want? How heavy do you want this to be? What kind of light do you want showing (for chimeras)? These will impact design decisions long before we go shopping. 

*Kinds of burlap.*  


The Fabric Store burlap. This is typically found in your fabric store. It's very tight weave burlap that will give a nice, solid finish, no light showing through. About $3 or so per yard. I like to get one of the 40% off coupons and buy a whole bolt at a time. Makes great fake leather when coated with liquid latex, or great solid forms for a monster mud statue. 










The Hardware store burlap. Often found in the gardening section, typically pretty cheap. Could be called erosion cloth, jute netting (which makes this confusing with the next one), or just simply burlap. This is a much looser weave burlap than the fabric store burlap, and will result in a MUCH lighter end product. However, it also will be letting light through unless you plug the holes somehow. 

(A repair I had to make when some neighbor kids thought Chimera 1 was a jungle gym, used the hardware store burlap, notice the holes in it.) 










Jute Netting. VERY large strands of burlap loosely woven together. Known as erosion cloth as well sometimes. Typically sold in 250+ yard spools, but some haunt suppliers are selling off smaller chunks of late. This stuff is GREAT for making accents. Scrunch it together for great texture, or unravel it for long vines. 








 
*Frame it up.*  

So, you've decided on a design, it's time to build the frame to drape your burlap on. 

You'll see a lot of poeple building wood or PVC frames. 

For me, wood is heavy, and PVC is too weak. So, I build EMT conduit frames. The pipe bending tools are ATTROCIOUSLY EXPENSIVE in the hardware stores, so I just hit the flea market and garage sales until I found a couple. I presently have a 1/2" EMT bender and a 3/4" EMT/1/2" rigid pipe bender. Most often I can get away with the 1/2" emt, but Chimera 1 should have used the 3/4" (didn't have it at the time I built that one). 

The thing to remember about building frames is that you're building the highest part of the shape, and allowing the burlap to hang beneath. Chicken wire is the most common means to flesh out your frame, but don't be afraid to think outside that box. 

"Hardware cloth" frame beginning. Chosen for smaller holes so they don't make impression, and stronger than standard chiken wire.










Paper mache frame over wire to add stability and hide the chicken wire pattern. (bonus bamboo frames out the back)









Paper mache and grape vine frame. 










Body form frame.










In fact, TEMPORARY frames can be made if you need a hollow structure as well. Monster mud is quite durable, and a plastic drop cloth rolled up can be enough support for some items.

(rare photo of Chimera 3, sold to pay for 1 and 2. Plastic rolled up as the only support for the sholders as they dried.)










Here some sisal twine was used to stabalize the head of Chimera 3 in place as it dried. 










Tin foil also works great as a barrier between a form and monster mud.


----------



## offmymeds

Thank you so much for taking the time to do this!!


----------



## UnOrthodOx

*Alternatives to monster mud?*  

Sometimes, however, monster mud is just going to be too heavy for your needs. 

My 12 ft tall 2 section build of "a dragon" (close enough for here), the head needed to be lifted up 4 ft to attach to the bottom part. No way I was lifting a 10 ft long 3 ft wide section of monster mud and aligning it with guide holes. I needed an alternative. 

I've since found many alternatives to monster mud while you are building with burlap. 

Latex spread over burlap makes for some GREAT leather. (here stained with wood stains) 










And is easy to use as adhesive to glue pieces together, or coat the underside so it's no longer itchy.

in progress burlap and latex mask.










Mod Podge (check your glue section of Michaels) remains flexible, and adheres to burlap great. Used to create an easy means of getting those darn armors I had to build for school projects on. It also takes away the itch factor. 










But we're talking about big builds and I promised a 12' dragon, didn't I? 

My solution on that one was a little pricey, but worth it. Floor epoxy. Water base one part kind for garage floors. 










The results were rigid, waterproof, and added practically no weight to the burlap once dry. 










Paper Mache. 

I can not say enough about paper mache. FANTASTIC medium. It's advantage being it's definitely cheaper than Monster mud. The down side being it usually takes longer. 

Seriously, check out Stolloween for more info on paper mache. 

http://www.stolloween.com/

And, yes, you can go BIG as well. 8' set of totems of mine.


----------



## UnOrthodOx

Well, we've talked quite a bit about generics now, it's on to the actual Chimera tutorial. 

*What is a Chimera?*  


EXACTLY! 

Chimera:

1: a fire-breathing she-monster in Greek mythology having a lion's head, a goat's body, and a serpent's tail 
2: an illusion or fabrication of the mind; 
3: an individual, organ, or part consisting of tissues of diverse genetic constitution 
4: a grotesque product of the imagination. 

Chimera defy definition. That is their primary trait. I don't approach them as "I want to build X". It's more "I wonder what I can do with this?" 

The original Chimera sprang from my disappointment in my own ability to create a decent scarecrow. Sure, I had this dream of making something vaguely reminiscent of Pumpkinrot...well, that just didn't work for me as mine more looked like someone shoved Peewee Herman on a post. Scary, sure, but not exactly fascinating or beautiful. 

I was bound and determined to build an UNORTHODOX scarecrow, dang it! So I scoured the internet for inspiration in early 2011. 

It came in the form of Magic the Gathering.










Their scarecrows incorportated bones, twigs, objects. Didn't even need to be humanoid in shape. They were not effigies, they were THINGS unto themselves. Were built for a purpose, and they did that purpose unrelenting. 










Such a shift in my own personal interpretation of the scarecrow led to the creation of the first Chimera. 










This spawned 2 more that flowed swiftly in between business travel and a job change. 

4 other designs were left unrealized. 

I was surprised at the reaction to #1, which was immediate. 

Neighbors stopped giving me the wierd "oh what's he doing now" look, and started coming over and asking all about it. 

It's been called a cat, a star wars character, an alien, a troll, a gremlin, and, of course, the Chimera. 

Where people come up with some of those, I have no idea. I've learned the whole nebulous nature of the them is both beautiful and disturbing. 

*Even deformity has a symmetry to it.*  

These are the words of the boss. (my wife)

Truer words have never been spoken. 

The early design for Chimera 2 was this one armed living lantern. 










After a hard day working on it, those were the words she said to me. It needed another arm. "even if it is a small mangled thing". 

And so it received. 











Chimera, despite being a conglomeration of various objects and without form, also need to follow organic symmetry. 


*Chimera have a purpose and an element.*  

This line of thinking sprang again from Magic the Gathering. Specifically a story on their concept of a scarecrow, I strongly recommend reading and looking at the concept art. 



> Over time, as farmers moved or passed away, some of the scarecrows remained. Most of them continue to try to perform their intended actions, but removed of their context, their actions seem bizarre and inappropriate. A scarecrow designed for scything grain, for example, can seem menacing when it comes at you in the dark, its sickle-arm raised high and its empty eyes trying to decide whether you are ripe for mowing. Other scarecrows are more innocuous in purpose, but can still be strange and scary.


My Chimera were going to take this concept to it's ultimate extremity. They would be designed with ONE purpose in mind. 

Chimera 1 was designed with the scythe in mind. With my decoration being mostly harvested corn and reed grass, it made sense to have SOMETHING doing the harvesting. To increase the menace, I wanted him staring right into the eyes of the average trick or treater as well. So, while he stands 6' tall, his head and eyes are at 4'. 

I also wanted him to be something of an 'Earth' elemental, which lead to the humped back, bamboo spined original form. Some redesigns lead to more 'swampy' additions later, but I'll get into that in a minute. 










Chimera 2 was a cobbled design from the get go. Chimera 1's original head getting utilized, Chimera 2 was to be thematically fitting, but as different from 1 as possible. It was to TOWER over trick or treaters at 8' tall, and was the first one I designed from the ground up with LIGHT in mind (more on that coming), for that was his purpose, to light the path and watch over travelers. Chimera 2 was also designed to be something of a swamp or marsh creature. Long, drooping, dangling form from the get go. Some early concepts had him holding one of my torches, discarded for safety reasons...










Chimera 3 was a commission piece for a semi-local professional haunt (It's quite a drive from my place). He was specifically designed with their mine theme in mind. Unfortunately, I never got a pic of him completed. This is the most complete pic I have. 










Chimera 4, AKA the Barghest, is forthcoming...This will be my first attempt at creating a creature that embodies AIR or spirit.


----------



## Hallomarine

I'm absorbing this like a starving man at a buffet. This is good Stuff! This tutorial has given rise to a couple of ideas to try: a version of lockjaw using grapevines and burlap as a sort of beginning attempt, and a huge undertaking of Mavel's Man-Thing. I may be buggin' ya for ideas on that one...
HM


----------



## UnOrthodOx

*Designing with light in mind.*  

My older brother learned this about me when he once suggested I should stick LEDs into the eyes of my skulls on stakes...

WHY on earth would I want to ruin it?










One of my pet peeves is being able to SEE the light source. 

Rule #1 of my designs has always been, HIDE THE LIGHT BULB. 

Here's a drawing of the totems showing what would become my standard light design. (yes this was drawn on a napkin. At my sons' scout banquet no less)

Notice I had 2 possible lighting methods, either one bulb at the base shining up, or a bulb hidden behind each face to shine on the back wall. The latter was used on this project, but I've used various forms since then. 










Test of the one light in the bottom design, didn't light the top well enough...










Eventual 3 bulb design. 










This is especially important in Chimera design. Their whole design is meant to be mysterious. The light source included. 

*Test early, Test Often.*   

And don't be afraid to scrap it. SO much of my work is through trial and error. 

Let's walk through Chimera 1. 

January 2011. First attempt at a head, almost immediately scrapped.










Second head design lasted up until my first lighting test. I had nowhere to hide a CFL bulb in it, considering I had planned on using a G40 bulb that was no surprise, but green G40 + green CFL were too far apart, and the head was getting lost. Unwilling to dim the body, head 2 was scrapped (later found orange G40 and CFL were close thus this head was built into Chimera 2.) 










Final head redesign. The light socket sits right between the eyes, the bulb goes forward into the nose from there. 

Note the thick ledges at the back of the eye sockets to reflect that light. 










The first unveiling. This was a full on test, the torches drug out and lit just to see what this would look like under torchlight. I noted the little holes allowing light to shine through even here. A particular angle the chest lighbulb could be seen from, all noted into my book for fixing. 










At each point of failure, I took a break, analysed the situation, and come up with a solution. 

Often times, I have to work on something ELSE when something goes wrong. There's a reason I've started Chimera 4 now, as I've been having a little trouble with my fence for 2013. Take a break, come at it with fresh eyes later. 

speaking of breaks...gotta go, be back later.


----------



## S.O.S.

Wow... that was amazing. I love the lighting.


----------



## Deadna

I found a show I had taped about 5 years ago and in it they discussed monstermud. They created a scene of rotting food/vomit by adding chunky foods like cornflakes and oatmeal to the mud. Colored it with a powdered pigment and added shellac which kept it wet looking forever. I think they said the same formula would keep a bloody scene fresh and wet looking forever as well but they didn't say how much shellac to add. Has anyone tried this?


----------



## UnOrthodOx

Shellac is not waterproof, and my stuff is all outside, so I've never tried it. Adding powdered pigment to monster mud makes a lot of sense as your paint will be dilluted to white. Powdered pigment would let you get the full color effect you want.

If you were going to be keeping these items out of the weather, it would, essentially, last forever. As for how much shellac, the great thing about shellac is it's quick to dry, so just add coats until it looks right.


----------



## Old Man Bakke

Deadna said:


> I found a show I had taped about 5 years ago and in it they discussed monstermud. They created a scene of rotting food/vomit by adding chunky foods like cornflakes and oatmeal to the mud. Colored it with a powdered pigment and added shellac which kept it wet looking forever. I think they said the same formula would keep a bloody scene fresh and wet looking forever as well but they didn't say how much shellac to add. Has anyone tried this?


I haven't used shellac to make things look wet ....but have used Spar Varnish to waterproof paper mache props. It works great and dries looking wet...here is a link to some info

http://www.halloweenforum.com/hallo...ache-marine-varnish-regular-spar-varnish.html


----------



## Terra

Really digging this tutorial. There's so many great ideas! Especially the ideo of using other mediums instead of MM. Never thought of latex and burlap. Gotta try that combo


----------



## Paxley

Bravo UnOrthodOx ! ( thunderous applause in the background )

What a great tutorial ! ! Lots and lots of ideas for me for 2013.
I specially like the lighted pumpkins on the stakes, thinking I could line 
the driveway with those pretty painlessly.

I keep trying to come up with ways to build a body for the dragon mask I have 
had for years









and I think your instructions here are just the motivation to get me started.

Keep up the great work ! Pax


----------



## UnOrthodOx

I've got lots more to come, just have been struck with an incredibly busy February with kids in basketball and ski lessons, and science fairs, and dance, and etc.


----------



## God of thunder

The chimera pics with the lighting are wonderful. Proof that less is definitely more. Awesome.


----------



## crazy xmas

Awesome pics thanks for the step by step!


----------



## The Halloween Lady

UnOrthodOx, those really rock!!! They are freaky as hell. Very original, I love them.


----------



## gusbud1

I used the Drylock method when I built a spider body and a reaper holding a lantern last year and it worked out great. The props stayed completely dry even in a snow storm.


----------



## Widowmakerproduction

The problem with this method from what I understand it that the UV rays will attack it . Ask SKAustin.


----------



## Widowmakerproduction

This is my video on mixing Monster Mud 




This is a video on some experimentation with monster mud





This a video on how to make monster mud pumpkins.





Hope these videos help


----------



## Pennywise

Links aren't working....

Never mind. I found them on YouTube


----------



## UnOrthodOx

Fixed the videos.


----------



## gusbud1

Widowmakerproduction said:


> The problem with this method from what I understand it that the UV rays will attack it . Ask SKAustin.


I had not heard that. Any time frame on when this happens? Everything seems pretty solid in storage. I will touch it up with more paint when I put it out, but no signs of problems yet.


----------



## UnOrthodOx

*The Barghest: Concept*  

My thinking about building the Barghest really started with Terra's Hellhound.










However, a normal canine really isn't going to fit my yard well at all. 

That led to me looking up other canine creatures. Virtually all my designs spring from research. 

With tales of black dogs everywhere, I settled in on the Barghest because, like all the Chimera, it is a nebulous creature. At various times appearing as a dog, a bear, a goblin, or a human. Usully covered in mist, and sometimes with a green glow. 










Well, this gave me a direction for color, glowing, and the various jumble of animal inspirations to make a chimera out of it. 

I also wanted to play with my "carapace" design (featured in Chimera 3) and see if I couldn't improve on it some. With these basics down, it was time to start building. 


*The Frame.*  

The main frame of the Barghest is formed by 3 pieces of 1/2" EMT. 3/4" was considered, but to get the pose I wanted with the legs, I needed the more pliable 1/2". 

One piece each was made for the left and right side, taped together. The pose was selected to bring in some of that "bear" element. One arm raised so that I can make a more humanoid type hand. 










The third conduit would form the tail and neck.










The remainder of the frame was fleshed out with hardware cloth. 










Chest purposely being left open for lightplay later.










The rear of the frame was designed specifically to hide a fog machine to bring that misty shroud to the creature's design. Floral wire used here to hold the hardware cloth to the spine.


----------



## UnOrthodOx

*The Barghest: Head sculpt*  

I wanted the head to be a little nebulous, but vaguely canine. Inspiration came from my son's ipod game:










I'm sorry for the quality of this pic, don't know what happened. 

The initial sculpt was done with a cheap air dry clay. Normally I would use Klean Klay, but it's no longer available and I didn't spend the time to find an alternative. The process is the same, just that other clays are more reuseable. I was only wanting a rough shape, and cheapo the clay would work fine for that. 










From the initial skulpt, I made a quick shell out of plaster wrap. (Rigid Wrap in Michaels)










Wiring the top of the skull for it's light, DAS clay used to hold the fixture in place as well as hide the wire and reinforce the plaster shell. 










Binder clips and the Sunday paper hold the jaw in place as the glue attaching the pieces together dries. An attachement form built into the back of the head with a scrap piece of 1/2" EMT to allow this to slip right onto the frame. All DAS clay glued down with mod podge. 










Initial fit test. The Mod podge proved inadequate, so reinforced the neck attachment with more DAS and paper mache. 










Reinforced neck, the exterior was given a coat of DAS to smooth out the sculpt. Adjusting neck to hit the proper gaze, will stare into the eyes of an 8 year old. 











*Back to front.*  

The Barghest needs to be monster mudded from back to front. 

Reasons a 2 fold. First, and perhaps most importantly, the "carapace" method demands it. However, it also makes good sense with this design to keep the weight in the back first before loading down the front end. 

Making sure the fog machine and corrugated tube fit before mudding. 

The first mud session is really just to give a basic structure to the hind end, which will serve us until we come back and detail the whole mode. 

The torso was wrapped with the fabric store styled burlap to make a nice frame for that fog machine, and to prevent light penetration as we want the back end to fade away. 

The legs were created with the Jute Netting burlap. This kind of burlap can take a LOT of mud. By twisting the burlaps around the lower legs, and spreading it up higher, we're able to make some thighs and give structure to the legs. 










The torso was sagging, so the paint bucket propped in there to hold it till it dries. How's that for teporary frame? 










Toes easily created by separating strands of the burlap netting.


----------



## UnOrthodOx

*Ribs part 1...*  

With the hind done, it was time to move on to the chest. 

First, we had to think about lighting. Normally, my Chimera have one light for the head, and one for the body. However, with the fog tube running down the center of the Barghest, that was really not an option. I toyed with the idea of getting some of those strip LED's and coiling them around that fog tube, but decided on the cheap route and wired additional sockets. 

Again, DAS making holders for the sockets right into the hardware cloth this time. 










The problem was, I needed that chest area more or less level. The best I could come up with is a comedy of bucket stands. Wishing I had waited to make toes...going to have to go back and do them again. 










To make the ribs, I cut off one side of that Jute netting (seen center) and then unraveled the rest. You need to cut an end since they are all tied/stitched at either end. Separated into little 'rib piles'. 










Simply grab one of your piles, mud it, and drape it around the frame. I had some of it wanting to slip, so floral wire was used to hold those to the hardware cloth where needed. 










More of the fabric store burlap was used at the shoulders to HIDE THE LIGHTBULBS. 










Note the shadowplay on the back wall. This is exactly what I wanted to see for the carapace method to work. 










*The Carapace Method.*  

What I have dubbed the Carapace method was initially designed for Chimera 3, and rather timidly used there. The customer had requested shadowplay in 360 degrees. Where I was already basing that design on beetles, it made sense to look to the segmented carapace for inspiration. (in addition to Halloween, Entomology is also a hobby of mine.) Since then, I've been wanting to base an entire design around it. 

The idea is to make layered plates of monster mud that will allow light through in between them. 

Measuring out the fabric for one of the plates. You'll notice the hardware cloth has also been cut and rolled around the mud ribs. 










I'm also adding support with some loose ends of the jute netting tying the bottom of the ribs up to the neck.









To make the space for separation, some plastic sheeting is placed between the 'bottom, and where the new plate will go.










First rib wrapped, second carapace section up, gradually making the angle of each section wider.


----------



## Scatterbrains

Awesome as usual!!


----------



## UnOrthodOx

*The Carapace Method, part 2*  

Hit the picture limit on the other post there, so here we go. 

The thing about the carapace method, however is that only the top layer really gets a chance to dry, what with all that plastic. 

So, where we built back to front, you have to dry front to back. 

Removing the top plastic from our first mud session. Had to break to scrounge up more burlap. 










As it stands.










Tying up the last two ribs.










Showing our gaps for light and fog to permeate.










Basic body form all mudded, finally. Need to go make some more mud now, as we have a LOT of the Jute netting to do. 










With any luck the breeze will dry this swiftly and we can try a light and fog test tomorrow.


----------



## Hallomarine

Loving this stuff UnO. I'm racking my brain to see if I can apply any of these techniques in my plans for "BearTrap". The fog thing is what really is churning away in the back of my brain. Not so much as putting it into him as surrounding him with intense fog. But first I gotta get over this back injury, I'm so itchin' to get started on my Halloween props!
HM


----------



## Widowmakerproduction

SK Austin was telling me that he was seeing problems after a year or so. Dont really know for sure. He uses latex and tissue paper or paper towels for his ground breakers. The problem must not be to bad because he is still using this method.


----------



## Widowmakerproduction

I am really liking how this is shaping up. Can't wait to see more.


----------



## UnOrthodOx

Widowmakerproduction said:


> SK Austin was telling me that he was seeing problems after a year or so. Dont really know for sure. He uses latex and tissue paper or paper towels for his ground breakers. The problem must not be to bad because he is still using this method.


I've used paper towel/latex for years. Aside from the birds wanting to eat it, I haven't had too much trouble till about 5 years. But, my stuff is usually only out a week at a time and it's the UV rays that deteriorate Latex.


More coming this weekend.


----------



## UnOrthodOx

*The Barghest: Left Arm*  

Not as much done as I wanted, some soggy/humid weather prevented me from getting a second mud session in. 

I wanted to start detailing as I did the arms, and in order to do that, I needed something to hold the burlap into shapes I wanted. Enter stem wire.










This was threaded onto the current mud layers and made something of a 'frill' to extend from each carapace. The IDEA was that as I put the burlap on the arm, I could unravel the top part and twist them onto these to make little spines. 










That's not how it worked out, however...

So, like moving back to front, I need to move left to right with the legs for weight reasons.

Left leg. Note how the forearm is twisted tightly around the conduit, then fanned out starting at the elbow to creat some definition to the upper arm/leg. 










The burlap kept slipping, however, so I had to scrap the idea of just unraveling this piece and instead wrap individual strands around each of those wires. After it dries, I can go back and make the spines more of an even progression from the carapace.

Another shot showing how the upper arm is defined using this method, folding the front section of burlap under to make it a little thicker. 










Burlap tightly wraped at the neck to prevent slipping at the leg. 










Front shot of the spines, will get better defined later.










Closeup of forearm.


----------



## UnOrthodOx

*The Barghest: Right Arm*  


Much the same process as the left arm. 

Setting the wires up for the spines.










And the fingers. These were just bent and shoved into the conduit for a tight fit. 










Like the spines, the fingers need some more done to them, but we're waiting for the mud to dry first before building them up. 

Unfortunately, despite mudding all this on Friday, it was still not dry this morning (Monday). Patience is sometimes the hardest part. 

Thinking I'll move on and do the tail next to act as counterbalance (complicated reasoning why I've waited, mostly due to not really knowing what I wanted to do with it), as the WET arm proved just enough weight to push this to the tipping point, so I had to brace it up with some paint cans.


----------



## UnOrthodOx

*The Barghest: Neck and tail. *  

Nothing really dramatic here. You've seen the processes by now. Still working with the big jute netting. Looking back I should have done the tail prior to the right arm for counterbalance, but live and learn. 


Measureing the little stretch of neck, wanting to hide the chord and add support to the head itself. 

While working, we also fleshed out some of the spines and the fingers. 











The front of the neck piece was unraveled to add some detail to the head itself.











The arm doesn't NEED to be on that paint can anymore but you might notice it's a bit cramped in there. 











Tail. 











I'd call it ready for paint, but I've decided to hide some tie downs in the legs for good measure. This is easily the lightest Chimera I've built, so want it to have a little more opportunity to be secured. 










We'll be painting as early as this weekend depending on weather.


----------



## Old Man Bakke

Where in the world do you store such creations?


----------



## UnOrthodOx

I either store them outside or sell them. Not sure which way I'm going on this one yet.


Chimera 1 turns 3 in June, been outside the whole time.


----------



## UnOrthodOx

*The Barghest: Final Touches *  


With the sculpting complete, a base coat (ok several coats) of exterior flat black latex paint was applied with a power painter.










Followed by drybrushing with white the head and shoulders, so they stand out and show the details.


----------



## Rania

Truly spectacular Unorthodox!


----------



## Stringy_Jack

Thanks so much for this thread Unorthodox, I'll be starting my monster mud grim reaper this weekend and this will help in so many ways.


----------



## UnOrthodOx

ooo, make sure we get pics!


----------



## Stringy_Jack

Will do, just planing and getting some supplies together this weekend.


----------



## Katster

UnOrthodOx that is simply amazing!!! I want a garage! I really need to do something big like that just once to get it out of my system... but then I probably would get hooked and things would get way out of hand! LOVE YOUR WORK!!!


----------



## medicf43

great post, i have been wanting to use monster mud but wasnt really sure the process. thanks


----------



## LurkerNDdark

Thanks for the tutorial. Your chimeras remind me of some modern art sculptures. 

I found a fox skull, and was thinking of something vaguely fox/snake hybrid. I know I want the skull at the end of a long snakey neck, but wasn't sure about the body. The open chest solves the lighting problem, although I'll probably still use LEDs in the little skull.


----------



## JasonB5449

THIS was extremely helpful UnOrthodOx, thank you!


----------



## UnOrthodOx

*The Ghost of Christmas Yet to Come: Concept*  


Still cleaning up, I know. That said, I'm already planning my next build, after going more than a year without one. 

This idea has really been rolling around in the brain for a number of years. Pretty much since I stopped making Jack for Christmas. Then it really came to fruition a couple years back. See, there's this Christmas Tree Jubilee fundraiser where people decorate trees that rich folks buy at auction. I. HATE. CHRISTMAS TREES. Still, it's a charity, and a couple years back they started doing decorations along with the trees, and it dawned on me how hilarious it would be to have the ghost of christmas future standing next to a bunch of christmas trees. 

This year being what it has been, I really need something to build, and the time is right to do something once I get the house back in order from Halloween. There's an outside possibility I could even get it in the annual christmas tree jubilee and auction it off for a cause, but it's rather unlikely I'd finish in time. 

So, its really down to do I want to keep it, or sell it? I don't know the answer to that yet. 

Original concept work on this really formulated back in 2012. http://www.halloweenforum.com/hallo...heme-open-discussion.html?highlight=recondite

I had been working on the concept of a ghul, was instantly struck how I could merge that with the Ghost to make a 2 holiday decoration. Ghul being a nebulous being of smoke and fire, while the Ghost of Chritmas Future being nebulous as well.



> It was shrouded in a deep black garment, which concealed its head, its face, its form, and left nothing of it visible save one outstretched hand. But for this it would have been difficult to detach its figure from the night, and separate it from the darkness by which it was surrounded.


Now, certainly there is no end of inspirational sources for this from the good...










To the horrendous (really, a jawa?)











But, I wanted to strike out on my own, and put my own stamp on this ghost. 
What I know I want out of the thing:
I want it done in my chimera styling, making it much more ragged than traditional versions as well. Tattered ends of the robe the only thing touching the ground.
Mostly just the torso floating, using the tattered bits of robe to conceal the supports.
Being a Chimera, it therefor must incorporate LIGHT. Something completely alien ot this ghost. 
Therefore, it is to be the center piece on a display, at least with a Scrooge tombstone, and it will be the sole source of light. 
Built from ground up for 4 season outdoor display. 
Blue lights. First chimera with blue lighting. 
Fiber fix. This will be a very thurough test of the product's strengths. 
Quite possibly NOT built with monster mud...thinking on alternatives better suited to year round weather. 

Right now, plan is to have this powered by 2 lights: 

1 blue CFL in the chest, completely hidden, will illuminate the ground below the ghost, and in so doing, sillouhette the shape. MIGHT let some shine up into the empty hood. 

The second will be a spotlight hidden (blue led spot from Spirit after halloween clearance) in the sleeve of the outstretched hand to illuminate the tombstone (and ideally also cast the shadow of the hand on the stone and/or wall of the house).


----------



## Zombiegrl

Thanks for all the awesome information!!!


----------



## Todd P.

I've only recently started focusing more on building Halloween props, which led me back to these forums for the first time in too long. I'm having so, so, SO much fun catching up on Monster Mud! Can't wait to try it on my own. Thank you.


----------



## thenightmarefamily

If i mix shreds of paper with monster mud will it be a thicker molding substance and dry properly.


----------



## Joseph Baggs

thenightmarefamily said:


> If i mix shreds of paper with monster mud will it be a thicker molding substance and dry properly.


just make paper clay


----------



## Joseph Baggs

UnOrthodOx said:


> *The Ghost of Christmas Yet to Come: Concept*
> 
> 
> Still cleaning up, I know. That said, I'm already planning my next build, after going more than a year without one.
> 
> This idea has really been rolling around in the brain for a number of years. Pretty much since I stopped making Jack for Christmas. Then it really came to fruition a couple years back. See, there's this Christmas Tree Jubilee fundraiser where people decorate trees that rich folks buy at auction. I. HATE. CHRISTMAS TREES. Still, it's a charity, and a couple years back they started doing decorations along with the trees, and it dawned on me how hilarious it would be to have the ghost of christmas future standing next to a bunch of christmas trees.
> 
> This year being what it has been, I really need something to build, and the time is right to do something once I get the house back in order from Halloween. There's an outside possibility I could even get it in the annual christmas tree jubilee and auction it off for a cause, but it's rather unlikely I'd finish in time.
> 
> So, its really down to do I want to keep it, or sell it? I don't know the answer to that yet.
> 
> Original concept work on this really formulated back in 2012. http://www.halloweenforum.com/hallo...heme-open-discussion.html?highlight=recondite
> 
> I had been working on the concept of a ghul, was instantly struck how I could merge that with the Ghost to make a 2 holiday decoration. Ghul being a nebulous being of smoke and fire, while the Ghost of Chritmas Future being nebulous as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was shrouded in a deep black garment, which concealed its head, its face, its form, and left nothing of it visible save one outstretched hand. But for this it would have been difficult to detach its figure from the night, and separate it from the darkness by which it was surrounded.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, certainly there is no end of inspirational sources for this from the good...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To the horrendous (really, a jawa?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, I wanted to strike out on my own, and put my own stamp on this ghost.
> What I know I want out of the thing:
> I want it done in my chimera styling, making it much more ragged than traditional versions as well. Tattered ends of the robe the only thing touching the ground.
> Mostly just the torso floating, using the tattered bits of robe to conceal the supports.
> Being a Chimera, it therefor must incorporate LIGHT. Something completely alien ot this ghost.
> Therefore, it is to be the center piece on a display, at least with a Scrooge tombstone, and it will be the sole source of light.
> Built from ground up for 4 season outdoor display.
> Blue lights. First chimera with blue lighting.
> Fiber fix. This will be a very thurough test of the product's strengths.
> Quite possibly NOT built with monster mud...thinking on alternatives better suited to year round weather.
> 
> Right now, plan is to have this powered by 2 lights:
> 
> 1 blue CFL in the chest, completely hidden, will illuminate the ground below the ghost, and in so doing, sillouhette the shape. MIGHT let some shine up into the empty hood.
> 
> The second will be a spotlight hidden (blue led spot from Spirit after halloween clearance) in the sleeve of the outstretched hand to illuminate the tombstone (and ideally also cast the shadow of the hand on the stone and/or wall of the house).
Click to expand...

great idea I also drove by your house today when I had to take my son to exchange pictures


----------



## UnOrthodOx

Unfortunately, I've been overcome by events and won't be able to get to the ghost in time this year. You probably noticed the yard's still a disaster. Debating whether to make it in January or just push it back even further. 

Par for the course on how I build things.


----------



## UnOrthodOx

thenightmarefamily said:


> If i mix shreds of paper with monster mud will it be a thicker molding substance and dry properly.


Can't say it's something I'd recommend. Joseph Baggs is right, try paper clay. For that, I'll have to refer you to the master:

http://www.stolloween.com/?page_id=209


----------



## Joseph Baggs

it's hard to talk about paper mache and/or paper clay and not bring up stolloween


----------



## thenightmarefamily

Cool, thanks.


----------



## bzjenjen

Can monster mud be thinly troweled onto paper mache, to create a bark type texture, or does it have to used with something like fabric to adhere to paper mache/wire frame?

How light does it dry?

Thanks!


----------



## UnOrthodOx

bzjenjen said:


> Can monster mud be thinly troweled onto paper mache, to create a bark type texture, or does it have to used with something like fabric to adhere to paper mache/wire frame?
> 
> How light does it dry?
> 
> Thanks!


Monster mud will stick to just about anything. Yes, you could trowel it onto paper mache. I think you've be better off with a paper clay in this particular instance, but Monster Mud will do the trick. 

Weight depends on how thick you end up putting it on so hard to give a difinitive answer. I had 2 7'x3' pillars made of wire/mache coated in monster mud I could move around myself just fine. And yes, I wish I'd done the top section in paper clay. They lasted 3 years, but only really died to a downpour year where they ended up sitting in a puddle and destroying the base.


----------

