# Want to Make a Drunken Skeleton Pirate Sitting on a Barrel?



## Scary Papa (Jan 31, 2012)

Want to Make a Drunken Pirate (on a barrel)? Of course you do....who wouldn't?  

After seeing several drunken skeleton or pirate props on the forum I was inspired to make one of my own. However, I decided to have the one for my pirate display sitting on a rum barrel. So if you are interested here is how I made my Drunken Skeleton Pirate.

Note: This project will require a rum or whiskey barrel. If you do not already have a barrel you should make the barrel first. Please see the following link on how to make the barrel from two plastic wood design planters: http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutor...86-how-make-cheap-barrels-using-planters.html . Making the barrel takes less than 2 hours.

Materials:









1.	2 plastic wood design planters for the rum barrel – about $17.00 each at Lowe’s hardware Store
2.	1- 8’ piece of plastic screen door tight - $4.00 at Lowe’s Hardware Store – for rum barrel
3.	1 – piece of 1/4" plywood at least 18” x18” square – for rum barrel top
4.	1- skeleton - $29.00 at Home Depot
5.	1- reindeer motor - $11.99 at Kindys Factory Outlet
6.	1- piece of 1/8” by 1” aluminum flat stock about 8” long – about $6.00 at Lowes for a 4’ section
7.	1- small piece of scrap 1” scrap wood about 4” x 6” dimension
8.	Several 1 1/4” wood or sheet rock screws – about $6.00 per box at Lowe’s Hardware Store
9.	Tube of gruella glue or a similar adhesive
10.	1- 1/2” x 4’ piece of PVC pipe – about $2.00 per 10’ stick at Lowe’s Hardware Store
11.	1 – small piece of 1/4” wooden dowel about 4” long
12.	1 – piece of 3/8” PVC pipe – about $3.00 for a 4’ piece at Lowe’s Hardware Store
13.	1 - 1/4” x 3 1/3” carriage bolt
14.	3 – 1/4” washers
15.	2 – 1/4” self-locking nuts – about $4.00 per package or 10 at Lowe’s Hardware Store
16.	1 – can of cheap flat black spray paint - $1.00 at Walmart


Tools:









1.	Drill with Philips head screw driver bit
2.	Philips head screw driver
3.	2 1/8” and a 1” forstner hole bits or something similar
4.	Measuring tape
5.	Straight edge
6.	Center punch
7.	1/8”, 1/4”, 5/16” and a 3/16” drill bit
8.	1/4” wrench
9.	Small hammer
10.	Saw appropriate to cut the wooden dowel and PVC pipe
11.	Large spring clamp

Step 1: Using the spring clamp, and gorilla glue or similar adhesive, glue the reindeer motor to the 1” x 4” x 6” scrap wood block. You can use any method to secure the reindeer motor to the wood block but I have found this method is very easy and secures the reindeer motor very well. Set this aside to allow it to dry (about 3 hours to cure sufficiently) and go on to the next step.









Step 2: Prepare the skeleton. Using the Philips head screwdriver remove three screws at the base of the skeleton spine to remove the torso of the skeleton from the pelvis. This step may have to be modified depending on the design of the skeleton you are using. Whenever possible I try to not damage props when modifying them in case I want to use them in their original form again in the future. That is why I disassembled the skeleton rather than just cutting the spine from the pelvis. Set the skeleton aside for now.









Step 3: Prepare the Barrel. You will be using only the top 1/2 of the rum barrel for the next several steps. Using the straight edge mark a line across the center of the barrel top. Using the drill and the 2 1/8” forstner bit drill a 2 1/8” hole in the top of the rum barrel. This hole will allow for side to side movement of the PVC skeleton support rod. The center of the hole should be about 4 1/4” from the outside edge of the barrel and on the center line.









Step 4: Using the saw cut a piece of 1/2” PVC pipe 4’ long. This will be the support rod for the skeleton. Then, using the drill and the 5/16” bit, drill a hole through the PVC pipe at a point 52 1/2” from one end of the PVC pipe. The length of this measurement will be the top half of the support rod that holds the skeleton torso. Cut the 5/16” wooden dowel rod to a length of about 4 inches and using the hammer drive the wooden dowel through this hole. The wooden dowel should extend evenly on both sides of the PVC pipe and fit tightly. If it is not tight just add a little glue to hold it in place. This is the pivot point for the side to side movement of the skeleton.









Step 5: Cut 2 pieces of 3/8” PVC pipe about 2” long each. These will be the pivot hinges for the skeleton support rod and will hold the support rod in place. They should be about 1/2” longer than the wooden dowel on each side of the support rod. 









Step 6: Then using the drill and 1/8” bit drill a hole near the end of each piece of 3/8” pipe. Put the 1/2” PVC support rod into the hole in the top of the barrel. Slip the 3/8” PVC pipe over each end of the wooden dowel and secure the two pieces of 3/8” PVC to the top of the barrel using the wood or sheet rock screws. The PVC support rod should swing freely without binding. 









Step 7: Now turn the barrel top over. You will need to support the barrel in a way that the support rod will be free to move. I supported mine on a small folding clamp table that has a split table top. Take the reindeer motor assembly and attach it to the inside of the barrel top, near the open end of the barrel at about the bottom of the barrel ring and in line with the PVC support rod. Use the gorilla glue or other adhesive on the edge of the wood block and screw the reindeer motor assembly to the barrel top from the outside. This will secure the reindeer motor assembly to the inside of the barrel with both screws and glue.

















Step 8: With the PVC support rod hanging plumb (straight up and down) and the reindeer motor drive arm pointing straight up (or down) measure the distance between the attachment point on the reindeer motor drive arm and the center of the PVC support rod. The drive arm of the reindeer motor needs to be straight up or down as this will be the center of the back and forth movement of the PVC support rod when the motor is moving. This is important to get equal distant movement to each side as the skeleton sways back and forth. Now measure and cut the 1/8” aluminum flat stock to a distance of about 2” longer than the measurement. Use the 3/16” drill bit to drill a hole at the end for the attachment of the aluminum stock to the reindeer motor drive arm. Check the size of your attachment pivot point on your reindeer motor to be sure of the proper size of this hole. Just hold the back end of the drill bit up to the attachment point to be sure it is the right size. Then at the other end of the aluminum flat sock drill several 1/4” holes. This will allow for some adjustment of the support rod to the aluminum flat stock to get equal distance movement back and forth of the skeleton as the motor operates. Using the center punch to make a starting point for the drill bit makes starting the hole easier as the drill bit is not as prone to “wander”.









Step 9: Attach the aluminum flat stock to the reindeer motor drive arm using the screw and washer provided with the reindeer motor. With the reindeer motor drive arm pointing either up or down hold the aluminum flat stock level and mark the PVC support rod. Drill a 1/4” hole through the PVC support rod at this point. Attach the other end of the aluminum flat stock to the PVC support rod using the 1/4” x 3 1/2” carriage bolt, 1/4" washers and 1/4” nuts. It may be necessary to use a piece of the 3/8” PVC pipe as a spacer to allow the aluminum flat stock sit straight across to the support rod to allow the motor to move without binding.









Step 10: Turn the barrel top right side up and turn on the reindeer motor to check for proper movement. If you are not pleased with the side to side movement just adjust the attachment of the aluminum flat stock to the PVC support rod by attaching the PVC pipe to one of the other holes you drilled in the aluminum flat stock. When you are happy with the movement go to Step 11.

Step 11: Using the Drill and 1” forstner bit drill a hole through the side of the bottom barrel near the bottom. This will allow the electric cord for the reindeer motor to go through. 









Step 12: Put the two halves of the barrel together keeping the hole in the back of the bottom of the barrel in line with the large hole in the top of the barrel. Using the flat black spray paint, paint the top half of the support rod flat black. Sit the skeleton pelvis and legs on the barrel at a position that will allow the PVC support rod free movement back and forth and using screws attach the skeleton pelvis to the barrel top.









Step 13: Attach the Skeleton torso to the PVC support rod. For this you can use either simple black plastic ties or you can use screws to attach the skeleton spine to the PVC support rod or any other method you like. Make sure the bottom of the spine will clear the top of the pelvis allowing the torso to move side to side.









Step 14: Dress your skeleton pirate in appropriate attire add some accessories and a few sound effects and you are done. Here it is working, without clothes yet but with a rum keg on his lap.







Ok there you are. This project really doesn’t take a very long time to complete. It can be done easily in one day even if you have to make the barrel as well.


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## WolfPak (Apr 27, 2016)

That is VERY cool! Very simply. I like it. Thanks for posting!


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## Big Mouth Billy Bass (Oct 26, 2015)

Scary Papa said:


> Want to Make a Drunken Pirate (on a barrel)? Of course you do....who wouldn't?
> 
> After seeing several drunken skeleton or pirate props on the forum I was inspired to make one of my own. However, I decided to have the one for my pirate display sitting on a rum barrel. So if you are interested here is how I made my Drunken Skeleton Pirate.
> 
> ...


I know this is a bit off-topic, but does anyone know of the wireless talking interactive drunken skeleton busts by Spencer's?

-Frank


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## Rustie (Sep 9, 2012)

Love it! And thanks for such a detailed tutorial!

Reminds me of the drunken skeleton I made last year to keep my rum drinking skeleton company.


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## Scary Papa (Jan 31, 2012)

Thanks Rustie, mine also has a partner. The rum drinking skeleton pirate below. The skeleton on the rum barrel will be placed where the rum barrels are stacked on the warf. By the way your skeleton on that tombstone is way cool too. If everything goes as planned after I get my talking skulls from Harbor Freight I'm going replace the skeleton's head with a talking one and install a gemmy board from J-Man. Hopefully he will have some talent and sing "What Do You Do With A Drunken Sailor?" or something like that. At least that is the plan at the minute.


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