# Beginner's Guide to Props and Pneumatics



## SkeletalRemains

*continued*

more...

View attachment 4424


View attachment 4425


View attachment 4426


View attachment 4427


View attachment 4428


----------



## SkeletalRemains

*continued*

more...

View attachment 4429


View attachment 4430


View attachment 4431


View attachment 4432


View attachment 4433


----------



## SkeletalRemains

*continued*

more...

View attachment 4434


View attachment 4435


View attachment 4436


View attachment 4437


View attachment 4438


----------



## SkeletalRemains

*continued*

more...

View attachment 4439


View attachment 4440


View attachment 4441


View attachment 4442


View attachment 4443


----------



## SkeletalRemains

*continued*

more...

View attachment 4444


View attachment 4445


View attachment 4446


----------



## larry

This is excellent.

Thanks much for posting.


----------



## Evil Bob

Yes. Thanks for posting this! Fantastic!


----------



## Warrant2000

OH...EMM...GEE...

Wifeypoo will not be happy when I go show her that I now know how to do it, and I need to go get a bunch of new gear.

Awesome job, thanks!


----------



## Baron Samedi

What a great post!!
Technically accurate and written in plain language thats easy to understand without confusing "Techno-jargon"
This is going to be a great resource for many members and visitors alike.

larry..Any chance of making this a "sticky" so it doesn't get buried? I feel many of us will be referring to this often.

Skeletal Remains..Thanks for such a brilliant, informative post.


----------



## SkeletalRemains

*Glad you like it...*

No problem...please post questions and comments if you like, there are no dumb questions. Also please feel free to make suggestions on topics, and I will write primers in the same format. Hmm, maybe we'll end up with a free book at the end of all this?

Also, please feel free to challenge any information in my guide you may think is inaccurate...


----------



## kprimm

Thats what i was just thinking after reading your primers.You should put together a book or even make a powerpoint presentation or something on this stuff and offer them for sale on here. It is great they way you explain simply and thouroughly. The pictures as well leave no room for error. there are i'm sure many people who would love to do this stuff but feel overwhelmed trying to figure it all out and you are a very good teacher. Great job on this.


----------



## SkeletalRemains

*Thanks again*

Kprimm, I have thought about doing just that, but then again, my interest lies in helping to educate other haunters who have the same desire to build props, but just haven't had the exposure I have had. If I charge for it, then fewer people will see it, so I offer it here for free to any halloweenforum member to benefit from. 

The only thing I ask is that it not be changed and for nobody else to put their name on it! If something is incorrect, I'll be happy to change and repost. If I give away the powerpoint, then I'm afraid people could maliciously alter it. The only place I have posted these primers is here on halloweenforum.com, and Village_Haunt also hosts them on his website with my permission.


----------



## SkeletalRemains

*One more disclaimer...*



Warrant2000 said:


> OH...EMM...GEE...
> 
> Wifeypoo will not be happy when I go show her that I now know how to do it, and I need to go get a bunch of new gear.
> 
> Awesome job, thanks!


Just an FYI, I am not responsible for what your wife is gonna do to you when she finds out you spent $1000 on new gear...


----------



## yardhauntjunkie

So I have been looking around and researching prop controllers for a long time. I am super "frugal" and have a hard time clicking the buy button. So in all my searching I have kind of come to the conclusion that the PicoBoo might be the best for my particular needs. Would anyone be willing to help me out and weigh the benefits of controllers for a double acting cylinder driven prop? What I am mostly concerned with is the PicoBoo 104 versus a key banger like the EFX-TEK EZ-8. It seems like the PicoBoo would be better for a single cylinder(double acting) prop because it would also control the sound without the need for and additional music player. Am I off base with that assumption? I just pose this question here because I noticed your tutorial utilizes a PicoBoo controller.


----------



## SkeletalRemains

*Controllers*

Hey Yardhauntjunkie,

You are right, I would go with a picoBoo controller here. It has the audio built-in and offers two channels (one for your pneumatics and the other could be used for effect lighting). The EFX-TEK EZ-8 sounds great, but no audio. For the record, I have yet to use the EFX-TEK controllers. However, I hear they are great and easy to program.


----------



## yardhauntjunkie

The EFX-TEK EZ-8 is great if a prop had multiple cylinders or things to control. The only reason I hesitate on buying the PicoBoo is because of the lack of expandability. It is great for controlling two things like you mentioned, but for the extra $30 if I got the EFX-TEk EZ-8 I would be able to add more components to a prop at a later date. But, audio would be an extra cost I guess. So I would be looking at more then a $30 difference. Thanks for the great tutorial by the way.


----------



## Deadna

I may have missed the answers to my questions since things don't completely load for me and all I get are red Xs but.................
How much air do you use(psi or whatever it's called) and I know it is a bad thing to build a cylinder from PVC but I can't remember if screen door cylinders are safe?


----------



## SkeletalRemains

*Answers...*

Hey Deadna,

The air pressure is variable based on what the prop needs. I have built props that use 30psi all the way up to 110psi. It all really depends on what the prop is, how heavy the loads are that you are lifting, and how fast you want the prop to 'pop'. I would try to stay away from too high of a PSI load. 

I just posted a how-to on calculating PSI on the Tutorial page, check it out!

Also, I would stay away from PVC cylinders and screen door closers. eBay is a great resource for us haunters for these cyls, plus I've had a screen door closer shoot across the street on me before since the ends are only crimped, not machined and screwed on...

Make sure you are logged in when looking at the post to be able to see the pics, maybe Larry or another moderator can assist with the 'Red X" issue.


----------



## kayjay

Do you have this in a word document? I would be happy to create a PDF document that would be easier for everyone to download. I already copied the pics of this and converted into a PDF but it is way too big to post here. I can send a copy to you if you like.

thanks,
Kevin


----------



## SkeletalRemains

*PDFs*

I have the PDF files created and you can get to them at the links below. Thanks again Larry for setting up these links!

http://www.halloweenforum.com/special/Pneumatic-Solenoid-Primer.pdf
http://www.halloweenforum.com/special/Pneumatic-Solenoid-Primer-2.pdf
http://www.halloweenforum.com/special/Haunt-Prop-Control-Primer.pdf


----------



## DannyK

man, between you and Dave in the grave, I am gonna be BROKE!! And wifey aint gonna like it either.


----------



## SkeletalRemains

*Broke!*

You know, that is what Halloween is all about for all of us prop builders, eating off the dollar menu at Taco Bell on Nov. 1st!


----------



## Hartbrak13

VERY Nice. Great JOB!!!!! Sticky Material is a definite!!


----------



## SkeletalRemains

*More coming eventually*

I am working on more of these 'primers'. Coming up are air cannons, pneumatic planning/design, drop panels, and whatever else people want to see. I would prefer to stay away from specific pneumatic projects for now, and concentrate on basics and infrastructure, that way the material is more universal and can be applied more to whatever people want to build themselves.

So, if you have any ideas on more primers you would like to see, please post them here and let me know!


----------



## Spanky

Thank you! I can't wait to see the planning/ design, excellent info so far!


----------



## SkeletalRemains

*More to come*

Thanks Spanky! Your post is more motivation to keep working on it! The more members who say 'bring it on', the quicker I tend to get things done!


----------



## jodi franco

Wow, thank you! I now have a small understanding of the 'guts' of a basic prop. Although, Im still not comfortable enough to try to build one on my own!! I am electronically illiterate!


----------



## left4dead

Thank you!!! Awesome diagrams, this will help us out alot!!


----------



## Not-so-sunny-lane

Are these in english? I recognize the words but it's still all greek to me. I guess I'm destined to static props.


----------



## SkeletalRemains

*Engrish?*

LOL Lane!

I tried reducing everything to simple language as much as possible, maybe my guide is not quite what you are looking for because it mostly focuses on the nuts and bolts of a prop and you are looking for more of a beginning-to-end guide which shows the whole prop. I am currently working on a planning/design guide, maybe when I get that posted, it will help you out more!

Maybe some other folks can provide a better guide to a whole-prop scenario, there are tons of other projects out in the forum, I would try searching around some more and see if anything looks good to you that you feel confident in your ability to build.


----------



## tcntaz

Very nice breakdown kept it simple and understandable. Thank you...


----------



## Eltis

This is brilliant, thank you so much. I was really having a hard time grasping the steps between sensor and prop animation. Those diagrams really helped clear that up for me.


----------



## halloweenpropmaster

Thank you!! ive been trying to find a good pneumatic prop guide and this one is the best one. Thanks!!!! When is the other part of it going to be done?


----------



## tekcor1

Fantastic primer! I've read several pneumatic how-to's, and yours is by far the easiest to understand. Now about that air cannon primer....


----------



## SkeletalRemains

Yeah yeah, that air cannon thing! I have one in my trunk that I've been meaning to shoot pics of for the primer. But my son plays high-school football, so I've been quite busy with that lately! Will get it up here soon!


----------



## Ghost of Spookie

Skeletal Remains, I've been wanting to learn more about pneumatics and even gear-based, belt driven and pulley driven prop ideas. Sometimes the simpler the better from a cost standpoint too; just want to get some animation going and perfect things down the road. For example I'd love to learn how to do a set up to have pirates skeletons chase one another around a mast pole. The more basics I can grasp, the better I feel my props will be. After finding this forum I realized that I took the wrong classes in school for this kind of stuff. So it's back to school for Ghouls. Thanks so much for the education.


----------



## SkeletalRemains

*You are welcome!*

Hey Ghost of Spookie! 

Yes, you are right, there are really no classes to speak of when dealing with leverage, gears, pulleys or pneumatics as it applies to haunt mechanics! One of the reasons I love haunted houses SO MUCH is because you will encounter challenges that you just won't find anywhere else! A few years ago I built a revolving bookcase that had to be able to support a person's weight, magnificent! I used a bunch of skills that I had never put together in that manner!

Let me know how the prop building goes!!

-SR


----------



## Weavis

SkeletalRemains, I must say that this has been the most comprehensive, easy to understand piece I have read to date!! Well done! I am fairly new to all this and this is my first post on the site. I do have one question, and I don't know if this is the right thread to post in, but ... Anyway, throughout your TUT, you show the simplified one cylinder prop and control for this. The prop I want to do this year is a faux cellar door pop up. I would like to have two cylinders for the doors and then one for the "ghoul" and also a light and sound. My main issue, I guess, is getting the doors to open slightly before the ghoul pops and close slightly after so to not "trap" the ghoul. I have also considered having the ghoul attatched to the doors so that they pull him up and allow him to lower when they close and what type of controller I might need (on the cheap). Suggestions, comments? Any help that anyone could give would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for the well written TUT.


----------



## SkeletalRemains

*Cellar Jumper*

Hey Weavis, that is a very cool-sounding prop! The prop that you describe can be made as simple or complex as you want it to be. 

On one hand, you could connect the ghoul to the doors in such a manner that it pops out when the doors open, as you described. You can accomplish this by using 2 cylinders (one for each door) running off the same air valve, just connect both cylinders to the output of the air valve using a tee. This way you'll only have one trigger and one air valve, and based on how you build the contraption, the ghoul should retract appropriately as the doors close. Also, you can turn on a light with your same triggering mechanism. This method keeps the prop relatively cheap as you don't need a dedicated controller. Sound is another issue, I'll get to that in a minute...

The more complex way of doing this, also like what you mentioned above, is to setup the doors (2 cyls running off single air valve, or two if you're feeling spendy) in parallel from an air point of view, and use a 3rd cylinder to launch the ghoul. The only thing about this configuration is that you'll need a controller to do it, unless you are extra-crafty and creative with limit switches and stuff like that. 

Ask 10 different people on this forum and you'll get 10 different answers on what kind of controller they like to use. I would recommend a picoBoo controller. Very simple to program, a little costly (like maybe $90-$100) but that's where you can bring in the sound. The picoBoo controller has built in sound (ambient for when NOT triggered, and triggered for when the prop is activated). The controller will allow you to plug in your air valves and you can trigger them in any sequence you want (in real time). This is an easy way to go. The picoBoo will allow you up to 2 outputs, one for the doors, and one for the ghoul. Just connect the light to the same output for one or the other, depending on when you want the light to come on. 

There are lots of other creative low-tech ways to bring in sound: portable CD players with amplified speakers and a hacked switch to play the sounds, ISD chipcorders, loop tapes, etc. There are even threads about hacking cheap little $10 MP3 players with incredible sound quality! A whole world out there in this forum! 

If this is not making much sense, let me know, I'll be happy to go into more detail on anything if you wish...

-SR


----------



## Weavis

SkeletalRemains said:


> Hey Weavis, that is a very cool-sounding prop! The prop that you describe can be made as simple or complex as you want it to be.
> 
> On one hand, you could connect the ghoul to the doors in such a manner that it pops out when the doors open, as you described. You can accomplish this by using 2 cylinders (one for each door) running off the same air valve, just connect both cylinders to the output of the air valve using a tee. This way you'll only have one trigger and one air valve, and based on how you build the contraption, the ghoul should retract appropriately as the doors close. Also, you can turn on a light with your same triggering mechanism. This method keeps the prop relatively cheap as you don't need a dedicated controller. Sound is another issue, I'll get to that in a minute...
> 
> The more complex way of doing this, also like what you mentioned above, is to setup the doors (2 cyls running off single air valve, or two if you're feeling spendy) in parallel from an air point of view, and use a 3rd cylinder to launch the ghoul. The only thing about this configuration is that you'll need a controller to do it, unless you are extra-crafty and creative with limit switches and stuff like that.
> 
> Ask 10 different people on this forum and you'll get 10 different answers on what kind of controller they like to use. I would recommend a picoBoo controller. Very simple to program, a little costly (like maybe $90-$100) but that's where you can bring in the sound. The picoBoo controller has built in sound (ambient for when NOT triggered, and triggered for when the prop is activated). The controller will allow you to plug in your air valves and you can trigger them in any sequence you want (in real time). This is an easy way to go. The picoBoo will allow you up to 2 outputs, one for the doors, and one for the ghoul. Just connect the light to the same output for one or the other, depending on when you want the light to come on.
> 
> There are lots of other creative low-tech ways to bring in sound: portable CD players with amplified speakers and a hacked switch to play the sounds, ISD chipcorders, loop tapes, etc. There are even threads about hacking cheap little $10 MP3 players with incredible sound quality! A whole world out there in this forum!
> 
> If this is not making much sense, let me know, I'll be happy to go into more detail on anything if you wish...
> 
> -SR


SR, everything makes sense at this time. I might get back to you when I get a little more into the building process. I think the picoBoo might be the way to go. I really appreciate your help and I'm sure I'll be talking to you again. I'll try to post pics of the build. Thanks again and keep up the good work!! Weavis


----------



## czaaaa

Wow that nice . thanks


----------



## Gunner

Weavis-

A couple things to think about. While the idea of using two cylinders from one valve seems the easiest, it is most likely that you will get one side of the door to open before the other. One door will be slightly heavier, a bit less mechanical advantage, a bit of wind, whatever. In order to get them to move together, you should have them timed to each other. This can be done with ropes and pulleys, shafts, sprockets, and chains, or with connected levers. It may still make sense to use two cylinders to lift the doors.

Next, to sequence the pop-up, you could work with a sequence. This would be a switch that is triggered when the doors are fully or most of the way open. Or you could work with a two channel contoller and base the actuation of the pop-up based on a time delay. 

Or you could just power them both at the same time and design the pop-up so that it helps push the doors open. 

Another way to do this is to spring load the doors open, and pull them shut with the last few inches of pop-up travel. When you trigger the pop-up, the first couple inches of travel allow the doors to open, and the pop-up jumps through the opening. 

As SR said, ask 10 people, get 10 answers! Actually probably 15!


----------



## shibeto

*Thanks ..*

This is very cool. Thanks for your efforts


----------



## halloweenjunkienick

*cool*

Wow this is so cool, i am fifteen and are really into halloween and just starting to understand the use of pnuematics, i already knew the basics but this really really helped me understand the details. every other thing i am reading or watching only shows little sections of this but you described the whole thing perfectly, thanks soo much.


----------



## SkeletalRemains

Thanks! That's awesome that you're only 15 years old and getting into prop building now! I know guys who just started in their 60's and wish they would have started years earlier!!


----------



## galangrey

I made it through four years of college and never had to write anything this well done. When you know something that most people don't and you de-mystify it for them you are fulfilling the ultimate potential of your knowledge. 

Also, knowing what to monetize and what to give away takes a wisdom and empathy few possess.

Thanks for such a great tutorial!


----------



## operatingnurse

Wow! Spot on tutorial. Required reading here. Your efforts are really appreciated - it makes a lot more sense now.


----------



## gero1023

thanks alot ive been looking around for something like this you really helped me out


----------



## Morbiddious

Awesome, awesome, awesome.......simply awesome. Ahhhh, this forum rocks. Thx for posting this Skeletal Remains. You have saved me tons of time !!!!


----------



## Mainelyelectric

ya great post


----------



## RacerX45

Thanks for putting this together. It's been a huge help as I venture into the world of pneumatics. Very informative and easy to understand. Again, thanks!

Randy


----------



## Peniwize the Clown

SkeletalRemains said:


> Thanks Spanky! Your post is more motivation to keep working on it! The more members who say 'bring it on', the quicker I tend to get things done!


Bring it on!


----------



## shibeto

This really helped me out..With this clear and easy to understand explanation, I'm up to the task. Thank you.


----------



## SkeletalRemains

*Everyone ready for another primer?*

So is everyone ready for another tutorial? I figured it has been a year now since I last posted these, and now I think I am ready to do my tutorial on air cannons, just gotta get the garage cleaned out first! Stand by just a little longer, it is coming soon!


----------



## tekcor1

mmmmm...aiiiiir caaaaaanoooonssss. *drool*

Hurry up already!


----------



## Hoodoo_Hermit

I would love<---- to see more tutorials from you! I'm totally ignorant of all things prop building and your previous step by step is wonderful (although I admit I have not had a chance to try it out).


----------



## Phil-the-fear

Thanks so much for this tut!

It is quite simple to follow but it has made me realise that there is quite a lot more to pneumatic air props than I thought & I think I'm in danger of trying to run before I can walk!

I think this is a project for next year as there are so many other things I need/want to do first and this is something that I need to sit down & take in properly. However, when I do have that time I know this guide is here so thanks!


----------



## SkeletalRemains

*Sure thing!*

Yeah the guides were a lot of fun to write. I am glad it has helped so many people! Your post does make me realize though, that I never spent any time on a tutorial on how to actually get to the point where pneumatics are useful. I think if new prop-builders saw my simplistic approach to modeling a prop, a huge lightbulb would go off over their head and would get a tidal-wave of confidence in building their next (or first) prop.

I have never really considered this before, but now it seems to make sense! I will do some thinking on this and see what I can come up with! Thanks for the motivation Phil!


----------



## Phil-the-fear

No worries - if it wasn't for people like you we'd all be so still in the dark over things like this that most of us just wouldn't bother trying to improve our knowledge or capabilities, so thanks again.

What you're proposing to do sounds great, but maybe wait until after 31 October!


----------



## BobbyA

Awesome job on the tutorial explaining the air switches. Wish I'd seen it about 2 weeks ago, would have saved a LOT of other reading for bits here and pieces there. Thank you.

Connexion Developments LTD had a great listing of the schematic symbols for this kind of hardware. Very useful if trying to shop for things you don't know the industry term or name for. Or used to create standard schematic diagram for your idea that could be understood and built by someone else. 
Note: I'm not suggesting your's was hard to read or understand.


----------



## SkeletalRemains

No worries Bobby! Yeah I used to do a lot of 'techy' drawings using symbols, etc (and still do to some extent).... but I just figured that some people might appreciate the simpler approach to the diagram. 

Soon I am really hoping to get a couple more good tutorials out there. A new haunt in the Dallas area just asked me to build them some air cannons, and I have been promising that tutorial for ages. Hopefully I can get a good how-to out of that and post it up here! I might try to make a video this time, giving more insight into how it works... making it easier for people to see how exactly it goes together.


----------



## thisain'tmayberry

To SkeletalRemains - Nicely done! 

To YardHauntJunkie - You are correct in your assessment of the EZ-8 controller. I have used both the EZ-8 and the PicoBoo, and as you surmise, they are meant for different things. I used the PicoBoo for a TCT prop in conjunction with a Cowlacious sound board and it worked perfectly for that prop. I needed greater flexibility and power in a MIB prop that pushed 5 solenoids, a fog machine, a strobe light as well as sound. EFX-TEC also sells a sound board called the AP-16+. This board has twin, built-in 20 watt amps and plays WAV files from your SD card. It will also play a background track like the PicoBoo http://www.efx-tek.com/topics/ap-16.html


----------



## Seante

Is there anyway you could email me this so I can save it to my computer? [email protected]


----------



## MET42

This is awsome. Would you send me a copy also? [email protected]


----------



## SkeletalRemains

The PDF's of this are in this thread a few pages back...top of page 3 I believe.


----------



## HallowSusieBoo

*Hallow all and WOW!! I just love how timeless this thread (started in 2009) remains. Thanks for posting all the updates and encouraging us to re-visit the info. Helps us all get through these cold winter days and greases the mental wheels for more creepy plans in 2011! BOO!*


----------



## FeelNecro

SkeletalRemains said:


> The PDF's of this are in this thread a few pages back...top of page 3 I believe.



Thank you SkeletalRemains for shedding so much light on the mysteries of pneumatics. Your tutorial is excellent!

I`ve been using wiper motors and Shiatsu massagers in my home haunt for the past few years but there comes a time when ya just gotta step up to pneumatics and I`ve decided this is the year.

My main concern, at this point, is how to determine what cylinder length is needed for the job at hand.

For example : To bring a prop from the horizontal position to a 90 degrees vertical position (like a coffin jumper) what "stroke" length would be required of the cylinder? (I wish now I had not slept through those boring physics classes in school)

Just wondering if there`s a formula or a chart or something to help eliminate some trial and error.

Thanks again and keep up the good work!!


----------



## SkeletalRemains

*Details*

Hey FeelNecro,

You are not alone if you are experiencing that "lost" feeling sometimes when it comes to things like determining cylinder length, what PSI to use, how to attach the cylinder, how to orient, swivel, etc, on your props. This is a huge detractor for a lot of people, but don't let it discourage you! There are a lot of different ways to design a prop and make it work effectively. 

You do kinda have to go back and revisit a few basic physics principles, but for the most part it is easy to figure it all out. Do a little research on first-class and third-class levers on the net, those are the most commonly used levers in haunt pneumatics.

A first-class-lever situates the fulcrum (pivot point) between the effort (cylinder action) and the resistance (prop). A good example of this is a see-saw. If you apply pressure to one end of the see-saw, and the fulcrum is in the middle, you will get equal reverse action on the opposite end of the see-saw (same force and distance travelled). If you move the fulcrum closer to the resistance, you have to move the see-saw much further on your end to get the opposite side to move a little bit. The difference here is that now you are creating much more force because you have traded distance for force (leverage). Now let's reverse that, move the fulcrum back closer to your side, and you only have to move your side of the see-saw a little bit, but with great force, and you get a lot more travel out of the opposite side (reversing the leverage).

Since pneumatic cylinders have all that nice power in a small package, using a fulcrum allows you to exchange some of that force for distance. If you play with the lever length and fulcrum location a bit, you can usually find that sweet spot that gives you the action you want (on the prop end), and also allows you use virtually any reasonable cylinder length.

A third-class-lever situates the effort between the fulcrum (pivot point) and the resistance (prop). This allows force in the middle of the lever to nearly double the distance at the resistance end. The closer you move the force to the fulcrum, the more travel you get on the resistance end, again trading force for distance (reversing leverage). Leverage makes all things easier as we know, but most haunt pneumatics rely on reversing leverage to take advantage of the massive force exerted by a cylinder.

I would love to include some drawings or photos but I just don't have time to make any right now. I might be able to come back later and illustrate this better. I hope this helps though! 

If anyone has questions or needs to correct anything I have said please feel free to post!

Thanks,


----------



## SkeletalRemains

Hey FeelNecro, let me grab a video I have floating around somewhere that illustrates just what you are asking. I will post it up here as soon as I find it. The prop lies down and sits up straight with arms extended when it comes up...


----------



## FeelNecro

Thanks SkeletalRemains,
Your explanation makes perfect sense. There`s a lot more involved than just the cylinder length when it comes to moving an object from point A to point B as you explained. Leverage seems to be the key element.
Looking forward to seeing the video when you locate it.


----------



## SkeletalRemains

*Video of lifter*

Hey FeelNecro, found the vid, just uploaded it to youtube and here you go... I threw this together in a few hours one night many years ago, used the springs as extra 'pop' factor to assist with weight since eventually there would be a body around this. I also used red and blue tubing to help illustrate the airflow, can't remember who I was showing or why now... anyway... here you go, hope this helps.

YouTube - Pneumatic lifter - halloween prop mech


----------



## SkeletalRemains

Oh yeah I think the cylinder stroke was 5"-6", a typical nosemount Bimba cylinder. Note that I took a piece of flatbar, heated it, bent it completely around the cylinder, welded it into a rectangular loop, drilled a hole to mount the cylinder, and then mounted it in the rear since the cylinder didn't have a rear-mount option.


----------



## FeelNecro

Hey SkeletalRemains,
Thank you for posting the video! 
You did a great job. I`m looking forward to getting started on pneumatics.


----------



## Mordessa

Skeletal Remains, I must tell you that you are my new hero! 

I have been wanting to start trying my hand at pneumatic props, but I had no clue how to get started. I've done so many searches for information online and haven't found any that explain things as well as your tutorial does. I cannot thank you enough for making these into downloadable pdfs for us! 

I just about fell over when I started reading your first post because it was exactly what I was looking for!

Once I have read through all three of the files, I will probably have questions for you, so I'm equally has over-the-moon that you are still on this board and able to answer them for me! 

Thankyou!Thankyou!Thankyou!


----------



## Mordessa

Ok, I've read the documents and now I have some questions. 

First, what do I need to consider when trying to buy an air pump to run these props? Is there a certain amount of power or something that I should look for? 

Also, how exactly does an air compressor work with props? Is the air stored up somewhere and released just when necessary or is the noisy air compressor thing always going to be on, so I need to worry about covering up the sound it makes?

Thanks so much for your help!!


----------



## Scatterbrains

I've got a TCT popup and a scissor prop that use screen door closers. They work great, but I'd like to swap out the closers for Bimba cylinders. What size Bimba cylinder equates to a screen door closer? If you have a specific part#, that would be even better.


----------



## SkeletalRemains

Hey Mordessa, a standard electric air compressor will charge up your storage tank to whatever PSI you have it set for and then turn off. The PSI (per square inch) measurement basically indicates how much air you have compressed in your storage tank. The bigger the tank the better. An average air compressor for home/garage use might be 3HP 20 gallon. The 3HP indicates how much power the motor has and the 20 gallon indicates the amount of space in the storage tank. Your air compressor basically consists of these two elements (compressor and tank). They come as a package (in most cases) and the compressor will push air into the tank. When you release a certain amount of air out of the tank, the motor will turn back on and recharge it back up to the pressure you set it for. For most home haunt uses, any hobby compressor (15 gallon and up) will work fine. 

If you are shopping for an air compressor, my recommendation is to get the one with the biggest air tank that you can within your budget. Noise isn't as much as a factor because you can usually put your compressor far away via long air hoses, and stifle the noise that way. Other things to think about would be maximum PSI, you want that to be at least 100-120 for haunt props. Yes there are some pro pneumatics that use 120-150psi but you likely not build anything that requires that much pressure. One other thing you can look at is SCFM, which means Square Cubic Feet/Minute. This basically shows how much air the compressor can spit out by itself. If you get a compressor that has a very low SCFM (1-2), then your compressor will be working all night long to keep up. Go with a higher SCFM (5+) so your compressor can replenish the tank very quickly.

Your compressor tank is holding all this air now, how do you get it into the prop? Well, you connect the air hose from the compressor tank over to a solenoid valve that controls the release of air when activated. This activation comes from a pulse of electricity that energizes the solenoid, which activates the valve, and allows the air to flow, and causes your prop to jump (or whatever it does). When the solenoid valve is closed, air stops rushing through the channel and the prop resets. I could go way into detail about all of this but most of it covered in the primer back at the beginning of this thread.

Basically it is the manipulation of airflow that causes a prop to work the way that it does. After reading this, go back and read through the first parts of the primer again and it will probably make more sense now!

Scatterbrains: I haven't used a screen door closer in at least 6-7 years, but if I remember correctly a screen door closer has a 7" throw and somewhere in the neighborhood of 3/4" bore. Of course in a screen door closer you have a cylinder that is spring-loaded and designed to leak air, so you'll use less air with a real cylinder.

As an example, take a cylinder with a 3/4" bore, then find the area of the plunger by calculating (pi*(r^2)). You get .4417 square inches. We'll just round that to .45 square inches for easier calculation. Now consider you have 30 psi on your air hose. 30 psi means 30 pounds per square inch. Since you only have .45 square inches, you can lift 45% of that 30 pounds with the end of that cylinder, or 13.5 pounds. Crank up that PSI to 60 and you can now lift up to 27 pounds with that cylinder. Obviously the heavier the load the slower it will lift, but you get the idea. All props will require tuning somewhat, but figuring it out mathematically will certainly provide an easy road-map to where you want to be...

As far as part numbers, I hate to try to lock down a part number as there are so many different mounting options, connections options, etc, so there are so many part numbers, I would look for a 7-8" cylinder length with roughly a 3/4" bore size.

I hope this helps somewhat!


----------



## Mastermind

Just popping in to say "Thanks" for this tutorial! It is very well written and detailed. I'm a beginner prop builder and am going to start with a FCG (of course!) Then I want to move in on some pneumatics.


----------



## Kustomnut

this thread is a huge help..thanks for all the great info.


----------



## JacobIrion

THANKS Great Thread


----------



## stealth_eagle

thank youi this will be very usefull


----------



## dullom

Great intro to Pneumatics. Now I think that basic should be combined with some hands-on training by helping another or a commercial haunt as you did. Nothing like doing to understand the reality of what parts do to create it. I'm in Louisville, KY...if there is someone on this site nearby Shepherdsville/Louisville....give me a shout. I'm your free labor or protege'. Dave.


----------



## Phantom Blue

Thanks for the awesome tut...THANKS!


----------



## Samhain1031

I'll be giving this a more thorough read and prepping for next year for sure. Great post.


----------



## SkeletalRemains

Wow I can't believe I posted this 2 and a half years ago. I am so glad people are still getting use out of this! Thanks for the good reviews guys  I appreciate it


----------



## smoke_dog

Great tutorial ... The wife wants an electric chair for next year and now I know how to hook it all up.


Wow been here a year and my 1st post LOL what a creeper I am.

P.S. I have a few questions, is it alright to PM you ?


----------



## Jack Skellington

SkeletalRemains said:


> Wow I can't believe I posted this 2 and a half years ago. I am so glad people are still getting use out of this! Thanks for the good reviews guys  I appreciate it


You tutorial was greatly appreciated in the Skellington House. I must confess that I was a PVC piston owner for a number of years. You clear tutorial helped me jump into the world of real, safe pneumatic components. So far they're all working great and I'm psyched to make more for next time.

Thanks Again!


----------



## SkeletalRemains

Feel free to PM me, or just post questions here so others who might have the same question, gets a dialogue going. Either way is fine.


----------



## timekiller

this is VERY helpful. Thanks. U DA MAN!


----------



## smoke_dog

SkeletalRemains said:


> more...
> 
> View attachment 4445


I get this part, but I was wondering if you use the 2 outputs from the control on 2 different air cylinders ( I will want the body and head of the person moving at different times ) can I splice into the wires before they send power to the solenoid to use on a set of strobes ?

I would like to have 1 set going off with one cylinder, and the the other one going off with the 2nd cylinder.

I know Picoboo has box's that have enough outputs for what I want to do, but if this is possible than the timing would be dead on.

Thanks for any help.


----------



## Industen

2 different cylinders can be programmed for 2 different routines. You can even plug other things into the unit if you want lights to activate with the cylinder. It is easier to splice an extension cord and plug into that rather the splicing the wire and input 2 cords in the C and Normally open terminals. If you want it even easier look at the PicobooAC. You just plug your items into the 2 inputs. No need to splice. 

I have worked with every controller and the Picoboo and Booboxes are great. I perfer the Booboxes.


----------



## Specter

Can you go into detail about silencers, how well they work, etc? For me, noise of pnuematics is a major problem, I need them as quiet as possible.

Also- Is there a way to loop the exhaust back into the system, to help eliminate the compressor from running AS MUCH? Can you give some details as to how to do that?
Thanks!


----------



## Industen

Silencers are used at the exhaust ports of the solenoid. When the cylinder actuates the air will exit the exhaust port. If it is single acting cylinder you will get one exhaust from the extend, the retract is done by a spring. Double acting will have 2 exhaust ports and when the cylinder extends and retracts the air will go out of exhaust ports. Screw 1 or 2 exhaust/silencer mufflers into the exhausts of the solenoid.

Usually a loud hiss will come out the exhaust unless a silencer or muffler is used. When these are used the noise is reduced greatly.

You can loop back to your compressor, just have a check valve before the tee connector. Run your air hose then loop it back to the other side of the Tee connector. The air will take the shortest distance to your props.

When I do this I use 3/8 hose until I get close to the prop then reduce it to 1/4. Run 3/8 throughout because it is larger and carries more air.


----------



## Specter

So would I loop the EXHAUST tube back to the t-connector w/ a check valve to help reduce run time on the compressor? Or the inlet somehow? Also- can I run a tube off the exhaust (say 20' away) and then put the silencer on the end of that tube just to help eliminate even more noise? Seems like I remember seeing someone do that once. If so, how can I loop it back into the system AND run a silencer?

Finally- where's the best/cheapest places to find all these parts? Any specific brands I should be watching out for?


----------



## Industen

Your T-connector loop doesn't involve the silencer at all. Your solenoids handle this task. I guess you could run your exhaust port 20 feet away and then exhaust the air from your solenoid. Silencers were made for this though. While the exhaust mufflers are really ment to catch particles from the exhausting air they do reduce the sound alot also. Silencers reduce the noise to basically nothing. 

Just run the main hose to your first solenoid then t-connector also off of this to the next, then t again etc. Then work it back to the main t-connector on your compressor.


----------



## Specter

Maybe I should whip up a diagram- but...

So, if I want to run the exhaust back into the system (in order to maintain more air and run the compressor less)- I just run a line from the exhaust port(s) to a t-connector on the main 3/8" line. Put a check valve between the exhaust line and the t-connector on the main line. Right?

HOWEVER- won't I need a storage tank to do this? For example- let's say I only run a cylinder once (double acting). The exhaust will run right back into the main line. Won't that build up excess pressure in the line/system, since the cylinder isn't running consistently? Running a storage tank would allow the pressure from the exhaust line to go into the tank, relieving excess pressue on the cylinder main line?

I don't know if that makes sense- maybe I'll whip up a simple diagram to explain...


----------



## Specter

OK- check these out-
Diagram 1 is a standard route (except I would have flow control on each cylinder port).

Diagram 2 is if I want to loop the exhaust back into the system to re-use the air and save the compressor from running as much. I know there's still some leakage and whatnot in the system- and compressor will still run- but would dramatically cut the runtime down quite a bit (as well as noise levels).

Is this right???

Am I missing anything here?


----------



## Industen

No the check valve connects between the compressor and 1st tee in the diagram. I think it is a waist doing the exhaust back into the mainline.

The cylinder doesn't have exhaust ports the solenoid does. If you are concerned about the noise just run the 2 solenoid 20 feet away from the cylinder. Also flow control valves make more noise then the exhaust muffler/silencers you should also have these on the solenoids rather then the cylinders.


----------



## Industen

I will do a diagram tomorrow showing you the "loop" and how to connect it.


----------



## Specter

Awesome- I'd appreciate a diagram if you can. 

Why do you think it's a waste to connect the exhaust back to the system? My compressor is very loud, and noise is a big factor in my display- so I want to minimize the amount of time the compressor is running throughout the night. Is it beneficial to have an additional storage tank then?


----------



## Industen

I have seperate storage tanks throughtout my haunt. 6 five gallon tanks. The 2 main compressors are 100 and 50 feet away so you hear nothing. If you leave a check valve off of each one then all the tanks will "borrow" from each other. I really see no need in adding the exhaust back into the mainline.

Just run 3/8 hose to an aux tank then reduce it to 1/4 hose to the solenoid. I will still make up that diagram it will be up in a few hours.


----------



## Industen

Here is a loop:


----------



## Specter

Awesome- the diagram helps a lot, thanks for doing that.

Questions:
1) I assume you have the check valve between the compressor and the T-connector, right? So it's compressor--> check valve --> t-connector
2) You're only using 1 check valve in the system, correct? Any need to add more with the addition of storage tanks?
3) What's the benefits of adding storage tanks?
4) Where's the best places to find all these parts (ie- check valves, t-connectors, etc)

5) In respect to the cylinder and solenoid- can the double acting cylinder reverse direction before it's fully opened? The reason I'm asking is I'm trying to figure out how to program the controller perfectly. I have a prop that the cylinder will open/close repeatedly, but will do so mid-to-slow speed. I'll have to use flow controls on each end to control the speed to make it exactly right- but there's going to be a lot of trial/error to get the flow control dialed in exactly right, as well as the timing programmed into the controller. While adjusting both the timing on the controller and the flow control knobs, there's going to be times where the controller will try to reverse the action, before it's fully opened/closed. Does that make sense? Will that become a problem?

6) Do you place the flow control on the entry ports, or the exhaust ports? Keep in mind I'll be using 5 port solenoid (most likely) and silencers...

7) You say the silencers are fairly quiet but the flow controls are loud. Is there a way to quiet the flow controls? Again, I need these to be as quiet as possible...

Thanks soo much for all the help! This is tremendous and really appreciated!


----------



## Industen

1. Yes

2. No need to add others. It it only there to protect air from re entering the compressor tank. 

3. Storage tanks increase your air system. So if you have a 10 gal compressor and add 2 five gallon tanks then you have 20gal. Cheaper then adding another compressor

4. Check valves can be found at many places. Locally I get mine at Grainger. They run around $15 each

5. A double acting can reverse direction half way through. You would need a flow control on each port. It would be impossible to stop midway without one. It can be done by lowering the PSI at the main tank but chances are you want it to be quicker one way then the other. It is easier then you think to get the cylinder programmed the way you want with a prop controller. I usually set my main tank to 110PSI then the flow controls are set, as long as these settings never change it will work exactly the same year after year.

6. Flow controls go either on the cylinders or the solenoids enty points. 

7. Just run the hose or 2 hoses(double acting) away from the prop. Flow controls hiss louder then a solenoid without exhausts. Leave them some distance apart from the prop and you will not hear anything.


----------



## MacEricG

Thanks SkeletalRemains. Any chance of your guide being available in PDF format so I can make a printout?


----------



## Specter

Awesome. This is very helpful- thanks for all the replies! Just so I'm clear tho...

on #7, you're suggesting to place the flow control on the solenoid, then run a long hose from the solenoid to the cylinder (prop) in order to keep the sound from the flow controls at bay? Correct? Is there a way to muffle/silence those as well? Or do I just have to find a way to do that? Possibly line a box with mattress foam, etc and keep the flow controls in there? I'm sure I could dig up something... This has been extremely helpful! I'll be looking for parts starting this weekend most likely, and see if I can throw something together.


----------



## Industen

There are different kinds of flow control valves. Some you can just screw into port openings while others are "in line". Why bother building an enclosure for it when you can just keep it far away from the cylinder? It is the simple way to keep the noise down. Just have your cylinder mounted then run the 1/4 hose to the solenoid that is located 20 feet away. If you are going to have audio with this also remember that will play over the air releases. 

These sounds are very minimum. I mean they are small hisses, not anything along the lines of a compressor running. Say a compressor runs at 70DB(Decibles) the air exhaust is probably 5DB at best without a muffler. If you want zero sound then do the above. You can not muffle flow control valves. You will have sound regardless.


----------



## Specter

If I want to run the solenoids at 12vdc, how many amps do they need? Just trying to do some planning on a power system for my display...


----------



## Industen

Practically nothing.

12v 100 ma

24v 200 ma


----------



## Specter

Oh wow- that's awesome. So I could run some 12v low amp controller to the solenoid all within my LED lighting system. Saweet! Thanks!


----------



## Industen

Yes you can. You can easily run plenty off of a 1A 12V power adapter. Remember also the power "draw" will also depend on how many activate at once. So if you have 5 solenoids and only 3 of them activate at the same time then the "draw" is less. This can be helpful if you have "timed" haunt props. Usually with a walkthrough activation.

I have a few 8 solid state relay boards that run on 12v 1A power supplies and they hold up very well. Sometimes I add a 120v relay board to them to allow me to use lights and any 120v source(fog machine, strobe..etc). This also reduces the stress of the solid state relays. Most can handle 500ma but a AC relay can bump this up to 10-15A which makes things much easier. Although the wiring can be crazy I have come up with contained relay packs that you just plug into. This cleans things up alot making the board and wiring contained inside a box.

Most DC solenoids draw 5 watts on average


----------



## Specter

Oh man- do you have any pictures of that stuff? That sounds AWESOME!


----------



## Industen

Here is what I was talking about:


----------



## HallowSusieBoo

Baron Samedi said:


> What a great post!!
> Technically accurate and written in plain language thats easy to understand without confusing "Techno-jargon"
> This is going to be a great resource for many members and visitors alike.
> 
> larry..Any chance of making this a "sticky" so it doesn't get buried? I feel many of us will be referring to this often.
> 
> Skeletal Remains..Thanks for such a brilliant, informative post.


*Wow - even though this is from 2009 - I REALLY appreciate all the info and insight. Sooo great that HF is a repository for all our haunt/prop dreams - pneumatic and otherwise!!*


----------



## Darrin Plank

Thank you for posting this. I might try out some next year. It's intimidating but you line it out very simply.


----------



## Old Man Bakke

Woul danybody know what going on under this sheet? How they set up the pnuematics? I would like to recreat this prop.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=4N_t6cbIUTs


----------



## SkeletalRemains

Good to see people are still benefitting from this a couple years later! I haven't been on in a long time, but I might be jumping back in the halloween game early next year. I got a lot of calls this past season for pneumatics work but turned it all down (sorry Fright Fest lol). Anyway, I am getting the itch again so I might start building a cool prop this spring.I will post progress and a how-to when I get rolling.


----------



## HomeHaunter1

Is there a way to run multiple pneumatic cylinders from one place? Like a large solenoid? I'm considering making an organ into a self playing haunted organ. I would want to shoot off three or four keys at a time in two or three sets. My original concept had strings attached to three keys run under the keyboard to the back. I would have each of these lines taught and connected to a smalll cylinder. Upon that cylinder firing it would pull down the keys it is attached to. I have like ten small cylinders.I could potentially use, each throw is like 1/2-3/4 inch.


----------



## bert1913

HomeHaunter1 said:


> Is there a way to run multiple pneumatic cylinders from one place? Like a large solenoid? I'm considering making an organ into a self playing haunted organ. I would want to shoot off three or four keys at a time in two or three sets. My original concept had strings attached to three keys run under the keyboard to the back. I would have each of these lines taught and connected to a smalll cylinder. Upon that cylinder firing it would pull down the keys it is attached to. I have like ten small cylinders.I could potentially use, each throw is like 1/2-3/4 inch.










I used these manifolds:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sky-Blue-4-...ic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts&hash=item51a4c4bbce
To offset the rear manifold use a 3 1/2" nipple.


----------



## Palmdale Haunter

This great!
Thanks for putting all the effort in!


----------



## David Rosenblatt

This is the best tutorial I have found on Pneumatics. Thank You Very Much
David Rosenblatt


----------



## SkeletalRemains

Industen said:


> There are different kinds of flow control valves. Some you can just screw into port openings while others are "in line". Why bother building an enclosure for it when you can just keep it far away from the cylinder? It is the simple way to keep the noise down. Just have your cylinder mounted then run the 1/4 hose to the solenoid that is located 20 feet away. If you are going to have audio with this also remember that will play over the air releases.
> 
> These sounds are very minimum. I mean they are small hisses, not anything along the lines of a compressor running. Say a compressor runs at 70DB(Decibles) the air exhaust is probably 5DB at best without a muffler. If you want zero sound then do the above. You can not muffle flow control valves. You will have sound regardless.


I used to take a bunch of exhausts from several props, run them all to a central location within about a 20-foot radius, zip-tie them all together, and wrap an old bath towl around them in a big ball, duct tape around the towel to keep it wound up, and toss it behind a wall somewhere. Works wonders


----------



## SkeletalRemains

dullom said:


> Great intro to Pneumatics. Now I think that basic should be combined with some hands-on training by helping another or a commercial haunt as you did. Nothing like doing to understand the reality of what parts do to create it. I'm in Louisville, KY...if there is someone on this site nearby Shepherdsville/Louisville....give me a shout. I'm your free labor or protege'. Dave.


I was in Louisville in August, had to check out Waverly Hills and do the tour...


----------



## SkeletalRemains

Mordessa said:


> Skeletal Remains, I must tell you that you are my new hero!
> 
> I have been wanting to start trying my hand at pneumatic props, but I had no clue how to get started. I've done so many searches for information online and haven't found any that explain things as well as your tutorial does. I cannot thank you enough for making these into downloadable pdfs for us!
> 
> I just about fell over when I started reading your first post because it was exactly what I was looking for!
> 
> Once I have read through all three of the files, I will probably have questions for you, so I'm equally has over-the-moon that you are still on this board and able to answer them for me!
> 
> Thankyou!Thankyou!Thankyou!


Thank you Mordessa! I'm not very active on here lately unless I get an email saying I have a post/response/etc... but if you have any questions just hit me up


----------



## Diaval

@Skeletal Remains.

I started to read over some of the Tutorials you posted and I am grasping more of an idea of what is needed to get started using compressed air. While I am no stranger to compressed air animation since I work for Chuck E. Cheese and I take care of the 5 piece band of characters they have there. The system is very large and not many details are given in regards to why things are. All I am instructed is what to set the pressures for and how to replace parts when they go bad.

Since 2009 I have been putting on a Halloween display and pretty much stuck with mechanical, electrical, and computer driven props. This is going to be the first year I am doing scares in my display and I am using mostly mechanical props. Mostly a single movement. However, I have noticed should I do something with multiple movements or something on a larger scale, it seems using air cylinders is more practical.

However, I just see using compressed air as a very expensive proposition and as such I have avoided it up to now. The valves and cylinders can run a pretty penny, but my concern is the air compressor itself. Either you go with a small pancake type compressor and the thing is so loud it wakes the dead (might be an advantage on Halloween night). Or you go with a huge oil based piston compressor which is usually a monster in size, requires 220 to run, but it will at least be quieter and not run all night due to the large storage tank. BUT the thing is expensive. The compressor I have at my job is an Ingersoll Rand 2 stage piston compressor that has a 55 gallon tank. I would say it runs once every 45 mins once it is topped off. It does operate on 220 volts and probably costs around $1000. Furthermore, Halloween comes but once a year and I probably will not use the air compressor for anything else, except to fill up car tires when low.

Now, going the other way with the pancake compressor, sure it is cheaper, but it is a heck of alot louder and probably will be running most of the night. Put it in garage or basement? Sure, but then that disturbs the 70 year old parents that reside in the dwelling where I hold my Halloween display. Also the CFM is not very impressive on those small pancake compressors. You could probably run 1 to 3 props and that is it.

Ok, so enter my brain storm. What if I had a large air tank and filled it before the start of the night with your typical noisy (but cheap) pancake compressor and allowed my Halloween show to run all night off the one large tank of air? Could this be done? If so, then I only have to deal with the noise just before I start my display for the night to allow the compressor to fill up the tank, but then everything will be nice and quiet.

As it stands, I don't think I will be using that many air controlled props. 4 to 6 props tops. I figure most movements would be around 4 to 10 psi and a large tank pressured to about 100psi should last a long time. But then again I am not the expert here, so I am just seeking advice from someone who is.

Thank You,

Geo


----------



## Industen

Go with a 55 gal non oil version. Sure it is louder but put it far away so nobody can here it. You can get them for around $400. A 7 gallon pancake can run plenty of props if using small cylinders. Once you add air cannons, splitters, or ankle ticklers which involve basically air itself is where you get into some problems. Bigger cylinders or linear slides (2 inch bore or more) will also sucked some crazy air. Also place aux tanks to make the compressor work less. Do a search under my name...I did a writeup on it some years ago.


----------



## EviLEye

First off, this tutorial is killer as it allowed me to spin up quickly on pneumatics, and within a matter of weeks I'd ordered all my bits and pieces and now have 2 pneumatic props with a 3rd in the works.

As a newbie with pneumatics, here's already some lessons learned.

Beware of the solenoids you get from China. They may say they're 1/4" but the threads will likely be BSP and not NPT standard. Fortunately the folks at Coast Pneumatic have been incredibly tolerant of me and I was able to get what they called 'universal' fittings that fit perfectly. I think they're new from SMC and can handle either thread type (according to them). Either way, they worked, but keep this in mind before you start ordering everything from Ebay to only find that your fittings won't fit (joke intended). This also caused me some grief as I wanted to put flow control valves in, but with these other threads on the solenoid the vendor didn't have the flow control fittings that screw into the solenoid so I was stuck ordering some inline flow control valves (should be here today). In the end I've spent as much on trying to make my $11 Chinese solenoids to work as I would've if I'd simply ordered a $26 solenoid from a US vendor with NPT threads and would've been able to use fittings with integrated flow control (inlet or with the muffler). IMO, you'll also want to have a spare solenoid or two with quick disconnects for the electrical fittings in case you need to change one on the fly so having consistency of units and fittings is high on my list.

I'm running 3/8" from the compressor to a manifold and 1/4" polyethylene tubing from the manifold to the solenoids. Polyurethane is supposed to be more flexible but it's wickedly more expensive. Maybe the colder climate folks might need the more flexible tubing(?). 

Regarding the compressor. I picked up a 6 gal pancake because my old oiled 6 gal compressor was leaking. And yes, the pancake oiless is louder. I wasn't hung up on the noise cause I was going to run a long line from the backyard to the garage haunt. More importantly, I'm fearing the capacity and flow isn't going to be there for the night. I've noticed that with about 8 actuations of my dual acting 3/4" x 10" cylinder the compressor has dropped from its 150psi to 120psi and will cycle. I will only have 3 props this year and intend on putting in timers to limit repeat, rapid triggers of my straub boards, but even at this rate I can see that the pancake will be cycling every few minutes. So while I'm thinking of getting an extra air tank (e.g. Harbor Freight 11 gal), I'm also thinking of exchanging my pancake for a larger compressor with more flow.

Anyone have any other thoughts or feedback or some first hand experiences they can share?


----------



## bfjou812

The biggest thing to consider when sizing a compressor is the CFM it is rated at. You can have all the pressure you want but if you only have 5 CFM it really won't do a whole lot exept run the compressor all the time. Just my 2 cents worth


----------



## TerrorOnTheHill

Skeletal Remains, thank you so much for such an informative post! Pneumatics have always scared me--about as much as electricity. Your posts actually make it very easy to understand and I'm excited to try making my own prop this year! Cheers!


----------



## SkeletalRemains

TerrorOnTheHill said:


> Skeletal Remains, thank you so much for such an informative post! Pneumatics have always scared me--about as much as electricity. Your posts actually make it very easy to understand and I'm excited to try making my own prop this year! Cheers!


Sure thing! I'm glad it has been helpful to many, and glad it is still being referred to by forum members even after 5 years lol!!!


----------



## Scary Papa

Wow...this is just what I have been looking for for a new project this halloween. Thanks.


----------



## nimblemonkey

Just in time for me to add this to my fledgling haunt. Thanks


----------



## creeperguardian

Is there a way where i can print this?????


----------



## Diaval

Hello All,

Sorry about throwing everyone for a loop in regards to my name/persona change. Since this was one of the larger threads I started, an explanation is due. Back when I made my screen names, I kept everything jukingeo so it seemed easier when hopping from forum to forum. But since I do not deal that much with jukeboxes anymore and the name wasn't appropriate for a Halloween forum, I felt it was time for a change. As I mentioned on the introduction page. I chose my Halloween forum name to be Diaval of whom is the pet raven of Maleficent in the new Angelina Jolie movie. I always was a fan of Maleficent going all the way back to Sleeping Beauty and she has been my favorite Disney Villain for many years. The new movie reinforces this and made me just adore her even more. In the original Sleeping beauty, Maleficent's raven was named Diablo, but in the new movie, he is Diaval. I liked the sound of the name and I have selected it for my 'new' forum name here at Halloween Forums.com.

Ok, that being said and done...



bfjou812 said:


> The biggest thing to consider when sizing a compressor is the CFM it is rated at. You can have all the pressure you want but if you only have 5 CFM it really won't do a whole lot exept run the compressor all the time. Just my 2 cents worth


Good point, I do remember reading that someplace as well.

Overall, I will say that I once again will be putting any future plans for pneumatics on hold. There are going to be many changes in the coming years. First off, this will be the last year I am hosting my annual Halloween display at my parents house. No, I am certainly not giving it up, but I just will no longer be doing it at that location. 

It remains to be seen if I do something where I currently live, but being an apartment house, I seriously doubt I will be working with compressed air here either. But I don't intend to stay here much longer either, I would like to rent/buy a house that is by itself with no one else living on the property. Perhaps then I would investigate it.

However, I will be keeping all of this information in mind.

Thank You all.

Diaval


----------



## Headquarters

Excellent tutorial on controllers. I am a new Forum member and I really appreciate all the time and detail everyone shares on the sight. I am having a blast getting ready for Halloween 2014. My list of props I am building this year will include a monster in a box, and for my big prop a Reaper leaping out of a coffin. This info is really going to help. Halloween is AWESOME!!!!!


----------



## SkeletalRemains

FYI: For those of you who would like to print this and review it offline, I uploaded the PDF's for this primer and they are located at the top of page 3 of this post. The PDF's are hosted here on HalloweenForum so the links should still work fine even after all these years lol...


----------



## creeperguardian

The links no longer work..


----------



## Diaval

creeperguardian said:


> The links no longer work..


Yes, I noticed that myself.

SR, could you be so kind as to repost new links to those documents, please.

Thank you,

Diaval


----------



## halloweenfan5

SkeletalRemains - thanks for much for the straight-forward approach to pneumatics basics. This is a huge help! I have been itching to get into this realm of haunting for 4 years now but always shied away. This may be the boost in confidence I needed.

Question to all: What was the first pneumatic powered prop you built? I feel like a Trash Can Trauma is a standard starter prop for incorporating this principles? Am I correct in thinking that is a good entry-level pneumatic prop to attempt? What else have members started with? Thanks!!


----------



## SkeletalRemains

The PDF's are actually hosted here on the site so I'm surprised the links are broken but let me see if I can fix these and repost in the next day or two.


----------



## creeperguardian

any luck with the PDFs


----------



## Chris Goodes

I would like to have a printable version of you post. would you be will to email it?


----------



## larry

The PDF files are linked from this post: http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutor...ners-guide-props-pneumatics-3.html#post670525

They seem to work fine for me.


----------



## zacharybinx

SR,
Can't believe it took me 5 years to find this! This is awesome!!! Always wanted to use Pneumatics and now I know how to get started. Thank you so much for all the time you must have spent on this. I have already printed the PDFs and put them in my Yard Haunt Notebook. (yes I keep a notebook of all my yard haunt plans).

-Z


----------



## SavageEye

*Troubleshooting help*

Need help...

Last year I did a "popping ghosts" prop. I had 3 ghosts positioned throughout the yard. I used 2 way valves and the air would push the ghosts up a post and come back down again. 

My compressor line went to a 3-way manifold and then three separate lines to the solenoids. The solenoids were approximately 5', 15' and 25' from the manifold. The problem was that I could not get a lot of air to come out of the 25' line. It seems to me that if the line is pressurized, I should not have gotten loss of pressure no matter the length. Could it have been a bad solenoid? Or is my assumption wrong about the length of the run?

Here is video of my yard, you can see one of the popping ghosts at 53 seconds under the pirate flag.






Thanks!


----------



## ryanlamprecht

Thanks so much for posting this. I've been wanting to try my hand at pneumatics, but hadn't the foggiest. Much appreciated!


----------



## Ashy_toi

Hey guys did we manage to find the original documents on this post? I'd love to learn from the basics. I work fixing power cuts in the UK so I understand the fundamentals of electrics. This seems like the next advancement for my knowledge and props. Cheers in advance


----------



## Halstaff

The links to download the files can be found in post #21 at this link - https://www.halloweenforum.com/tuto...ners-guide-props-pneumatics-3.html#post670525


----------



## Ashy_toi

Thank you x


----------

