# quick and easy (CHEAP) pop up air ram



## ColenJacksdad (Aug 24, 2010)

I just made one myself. I installed a spring inside so the ram goes back down. I also drilled small holes close to where the quick connect and on the top of the cylinder to release the air. I used a bath tub drain plug for the seal on the ram. I used a silicone spray for lube inside the cylinder. Works like a champ


----------



## Crunch (Oct 23, 2008)

What is the finished product supposed to be/do? :S


----------



## Calvin (Sep 9, 2010)

Crunch, it will make something pop up real fast. I am going to put a upper skelly torso on mine but you could put anything on it really. use it under a table and have an alein shoot up through a body or a head shoot up out of the darkness, it is limited only by ones imagination!


----------



## ColenJacksdad (Aug 24, 2010)

I am going to have a ghost pop up behind a tombstone with mine.


----------



## Autopsy (Sep 14, 2010)

Thanks for the post! This is my biggest worry, since I've not delved into the air ram building yet. I did however already purchase a sprinkler valve etc. in preperation of getting to it. 

My prop, is PLANNED to have a static, MM prop with a gasmask holding onto a barrel. The barrel will have fog inside, with green lights. (Chilled fog so it doesn't cover up everything, plus it's still neat even in a barrel) and then have it activate with a toxic burned, corpsed foam skelly top. May even just go with a burned mask) 

I plan to use the solenoid on a Power Supply from a PC, a Strobe and an MP3 with looped sound effects, connected into a Powered External Speaker setup all tied into a Motion Detection light setup with a 4 port plug in. Set to test it should activate the prop for about 20 seconds and then shut off. 

... but, I need a RAM! lol. 

So again, thanks for posting. I have a question however, what solenoid are you using and how does it trigger / you plan on triggering it?

~{Autopsy}~


----------



## ColenJacksdad (Aug 24, 2010)

Autopsy said:


> Thanks for the post! This is my biggest worry, since I've not delved into the air ram building yet. I did however already purchase a sprinkler valve etc. in preperation of getting to it.
> 
> My prop, is PLANNED to have a static, MM prop with a gasmask holding onto a barrel. The barrel will have fog inside, with green lights. (Chilled fog so it doesn't cover up everything, plus it's still neat even in a barrel) and then have it activate with a toxic burned, corpsed foam skelly top. May even just go with a burned mask)
> 
> ...


The solenoid is on the sprinkler valve. It is the part that the wires are attatched to. Attatch one wire to power supply(24 volt transformer), then attatch one wire to motion sensor or what ever kind of switch your using. Then attache one wire from motion sensor( or switch) to the power supply.


----------



## Autopsy (Sep 14, 2010)

Ok, color me dumb. What kind of Transformer are you talking about? I mean, 

I know it's probly super simple, but they call me Sparky at work (Yes, I still work with computers! haha) but, I HATE electricity and working with it, so I don't build too much with wires.

Thanks

I'm assuming the transformer is to bring the volts down from a 110v wall plug to 24v so it doesn't kill me right? Or burn the shop down?


----------



## ColenJacksdad (Aug 24, 2010)

The transformer that I am using does pug into the wall to reduce volts from 110 to 24. It is the same transformer that is used on sprinkler systems. They sell them in the sprinkler section at the local Home Depot I go to. Here is the link.
http://www.rainbird.com/homeowner/products/parts/ut-1.htm


----------



## Autopsy (Sep 14, 2010)

I got it. Thanks. Yeah I found them after some longer research. They might be my ticket.


----------



## ColenJacksdad (Aug 24, 2010)

They work pretty well for what I am using them for. Air Cannon and coffin jumper. The coffin jumper I just have that the airline go straight to the sprinkler valve. No air tank for that.


----------



## SkeletalRemains (Jan 14, 2006)

*Don't wanna put a damper on things, but...*

As many people on this forum may already know, I advocate against using PVC pieces and parts for safety reasons, as I have seen a screen door closer rod shoot through a piece of thin plywood and still have enough force to fly across the street. If there had been a kid in front of my prop it would have gone right through him/her. The differences between 100 PSI of air versus liquid affect materials in different ways, so I just say PLEASE be safe in constructing anything using air pressure that is not designed for that purpose! I think there IS a place for very low-pressure rams and props constructed from PVC, as long as they stay very low-pressure (like under 30 psi max). Halloween is no longer fun if someone gets hurt or killed.

Aside from that, excellent work Calvin! 

Please BE SAFE this Halloween! Use common sense in everything you do, and have fun!

Just my 2 cents!


----------



## ColenJacksdad (Aug 24, 2010)

SkeletalRemains said:


> As many people on this forum may already know, I advocate against using PVC pieces and parts for safety reasons, as I have seen a screen door closer rod shoot through a piece of thin plywood and still have enough force to fly across the street. If there had been a kid in front of my prop it would have gone right through him/her. The differences between 100 PSI of air versus liquid affect materials in different ways, so I just say PLEASE be safe in constructing anything using air pressure that is not designed for that purpose! I think there IS a place for very low-pressure rams and props constructed from PVC, as long as they stay very low-pressure (like under 30 psi max). Halloween is no longer fun if someone gets hurt or killed.
> 
> Aside from that, excellent work Calvin!
> 
> ...


I agree on this. I am using pvc. Everything I have built works on about 20 psi. I have also drilled releif holes in my cylinders to relieve all pressure so there is no static pressure build up in the cylinder. Air will compress causing greater force. So if your trying to use 100 psi, lookout! I use to be an irrigator and know the limits of pvc. If someone has never worked with pvc before, I would suggest using real pnuematic cylinders.


----------



## Calvin (Sep 9, 2010)

Great point. I haven't finished building the prop yet so I didn't post what pressure to use. And in hind sight I should have included your warning. I plan to start off at 10 pounds of pressure and slowly work my way to where it needs to be. My end result will not be a super sonic thrust into existence. More of a slightly fast appearance. I will post a vid. When it is complete and will include pressures and such. Again Ty for the warning it was needed! Safety first is a great moto.


----------



## SkeletalRemains (Jan 14, 2006)

*Safety*

I greatly appreciate the reciprocation from you guys on safety! Too many times I get too excited over a haunt prop and safety can easily be compromised. My experience was a wake-up call, and I am very glad it happened before the prop went live. That was 6 years ago. 

I now mostly do custom pneumatic props for commercial haunts, and I always use pro equipment. Really it is not difficult to find stuff cheap on eBay, just a matter of getting the right pieces and parts, and knowing how to hook it all up!

If anyone wants to learn more, feel free to check out this thread I posted last year:

http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/77731-beginners-guide-props-pneumatics.html

Cheers,


----------



## Autopsy (Sep 14, 2010)

would you mind showing us some ebay items that are decent cylinders for lets say, pop up props? 

That'd be great. Because some of us would probably feel safer if we had someone SHOW us what kinda cylinders would be good. I think a lot of folks go straight to PVC options because it's less scary. Almost everyone's messed with PVC pipe in some fashion, but can't be said about actual cylinders for pneumatics.


----------



## SkeletalRemains (Jan 14, 2006)

*Air cylinders and stuff*

Hey Autopsy, sure no problem. I'm actually building some stuff tomorrow, I'll ask the haunt owner if she minds me showing some pics of it here. If she doesn't want me too (and it's completely understandable if she doesn't) then I'll post something else on getting cyls off of eBay.

Cheers,


----------



## ColenJacksdad (Aug 24, 2010)

I would look to see the photos as well.
Thanks!


----------



## Autopsy (Sep 14, 2010)

Thanks, I'd appreciate it. I see them all the time, but it's like bearings or any other mechanical stuff, ya know. Lots look alike, but some can be VERY different from what you need.


----------



## SkeletalRemains (Jan 14, 2006)

I agree completely! Let me see what I can do to make the process less foreign.


----------



## Marcharius (Sep 9, 2010)

These are great cheap cylinders, screen door cylinders are cheap and also work well. Caution must be had when using either of these as air rams though as the amount of air pressure that they can safely hold is much lower than even most cheap home compressors. Both of these options have been known to catastrophically blow (though rarely). My suggestion is to go ahead and use them (we use the screen door type) just be sure to do some research and find out what is the maximum amount of pressure they can safely hold. Gotta keep it safe for the TOTs.

...climbs off of soap box...

Great tutorial, I especially like the T at the top as it makes it much easier to add in the prop your "poppin". Washing machine and dishwasher water valves also make good solenoids with a little work.


----------



## Marcharius (Sep 9, 2010)

Heh helps if I read the whole thread. I see this was already brought up and I appear to be beating a dead horse.......

hmmm beating a dead horse..... sounds like a great concept for a new prop.....


----------



## ColenJacksdad (Aug 24, 2010)

On my pvc ram I have an air regulator. That way I can keep the pressure down not only on the air compressue, but the prop as well.


----------



## Marcharius (Sep 9, 2010)

Yes that is how we keep the pressure low enough for our screen door cylinders.


----------



## Industen (Oct 12, 2006)

Call me old fashion but if you use an air regulators and other legit fittings why not just buy real cylinders and solenoids? I really never understood why people "cheap" out and take some shortcuts. Ok I guess it's a little cool to say you made a pneumatic out of PVC, but how safe is it really. I don't think a screw exhaust port was going to take the place of a real exhaust port. I've heard people using screendoor closers that shot through a piece of particleboard when mishandled.

I guess my biggest gripe is the fact that plenty of newcomers have zero knowledge of how powerful air can be. They come here see a cheap PVC setup and mimic it but don't know how to even use a compressor. Then they charge the tank and start increasing the PSI via the onboard regulator. Then energize the solenoid and BOOM there it goes. When I first started using pneumatics 6 years ago I didn't know anything, never dabbled in PVC cylinders and stayed away from them from the get go. Wanted to learn the "real" way to do it.

Ok so a screen door closer is probably around a 9/16 or 3/4 bore and maybe a 6-7 inch stroke. You can buy these for around $22. 

http://www.automationdirect.com/images/products/medium/m_a12060dp.jpg

This is even a double acting cylinder and doesn't have a spring return like a screendoor closer. I really don't see the savings here.

I'm not going to preach do this/do that. To each his own. Just know the effects of something going haywire down the road someday.

I do think it was a nice tut. Just be careful with it and all you PVC builders convert to real pneumatics


----------



## make them scream (Jul 2, 2009)

I like to see any body building for halloween and making there own props and I dont mean to be a butt or repeat but a piece of 1 1/2 inch and a piece of 1 inch pvc is about 6 bucks a piece thats 12 bucks the tee is like 2 dollars add about another 10 bucks for all the fittings and teflon tape and your around 25 dollars for that you could buy a safe pnematic cylinder thats rated at 150 to 200 psi not going to blow that apart and by my calculations your not saving any money buy going with the pvc your actually spending more money and its really dangerous


----------



## Calvin (Sep 9, 2010)

If you want a ram that is going to shoot up at the speed of light and needs 100 to 200 PSI then sure use pro stuff. I mean we are not idiots here. I admit I did not post what pressure i was going to use in the first post and when someone brought it up that this would be unsafe at high pressure I embraced the comment and explained that this was intended for very low pressure items. I think people have the common sense to understand that this is not pro. grade equipment and for people like me who have everything i needed for this laying around due to former projects and items i use at my job, this is absolutely cheaper. Sorry if this came off rude but the safety issue about this has been addressed in this post and it just seems like the low cost pro. rams could have been posted in a more possitive way.


----------



## SkeletalRemains (Jan 14, 2006)

*No worries!*

I agree, my initial post was just a reminder to keep safety on the brain when building stuff. I certainly do not discourage people from trying new things. I definitely advocate for using the real deal, but even building PVC pneumatics, it is often the first-ever cylinder someone will build, or in some cases, as Calvin mentioned, using these at low pressure is nothing to worry about. It's really about having fun throughout the season, sharing ideas, patting each other on the back, and educating the next level of haunters so they don't have to spend their way into oblivion trying different things! 

Now if anyone actually wants to debate PVC versus real cylinders for high-pressure applications, start a new thread and we'll meet outside!


----------



## Marcharius (Sep 9, 2010)

hear hear!!!


----------



## madmax (Dec 28, 2003)

make them scream said:


> I like to see any body building for halloween and making there own props and I dont mean to be a butt or repeat but a piece of 1 1/2 inch and a piece of 1 inch pvc is about 6 bucks a piece thats 12 bucks the tee is like 2 dollars add about another 10 bucks for all the fittings and teflon tape and your around 25 dollars for that you could buy a safe pnematic cylinder thats rated at 150 to 200 psi not going to blow that apart and by my calculations your not saving any money buy going with the pvc your actually spending more money and its really dangerous



I don't know where you are shopping at, but I diffidently would find some place else.

1 1/2 PVC is 3 dollars at the most and you are only using 1/3 to 1/4 of it for the air cylinder depending on what length you want your cylinder to be. Since Calvin is using his as a simple pop up and to do that you would need a air cylinder of around 2 feet. When was the last time anyone bought a 24 inch throw cylinder for $25.00


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



If we want to harp on EVERY safety issue this forum would fall apart because there isn't very many props that I couldn't find something to point out on safety. 


Calvin that is a nice looking air cylinder and a very good starting point. I wont treat you like a dummy who doesn't know all the pros and cons of using PVC because I can tell you did your research just by the way you built the air cylinder. By reducing the fittings and putting the nipple in the end, you found a way to correct one of the weakest parts of the PVC air cylinder. Nice job.


----------



## Autopsy (Sep 14, 2010)

It's funny imo. There's 3 forums where this same topic comes up, and as usual someone has came up flaring about using proper pneumatics. I asked on 3 sites and still have yet anyone to come forward and post any kind of info on what cylinders to look at. 

This further entices folks to go pvc. I know it's not been THAT long on here, but I'm still awaiting responses from other people I've asked about pneumatic cylinders for a few weeks now. 

Guess I'll go with this guy's build and do a few and run them at lower psi. 

Thanks again for showing us steps on your cylinder build. 

ANy progress / progress pics?

~{Autopsy}~


----------



## Industen (Oct 12, 2006)

There are plenty of pneumatic addicts of this forum (me included) that are willing to help you. There isn't an adjustable cylinder that will have everything covered. It's more of a "what are you trying to make". 

Plenty of different options out there from bore size to the amount of stroke you want. Also do you want it to spring return(single acting) or you want to push it back with air (double acting).

It's hard to explain really there are some helpful videos out there to help.

Watch all these videos on the bottom to help you out

http://www.frightprops.com/support-pneumatics

We are here to help


----------



## Autopsy (Sep 14, 2010)

I been looking, (off and on, between the ol' man coming by and bickering with me / us, kinda hard to "learn" for me between arguments over here) at these other websites, trying to learn it. I'm just too much of a SHOW ME how and I can learn guy. 

So many different things out there it's given me yet ANOTHER headache, outside the one my family's given me tonight. (one reason why I may come off being rude, not meaning too, just aggravated)

Thanks for the info. I'll keep looking.


----------



## madmax (Dec 28, 2003)

Autopsy if you can give us any ideal of what kind of prop you want to build I'm sure there will be a few people willing to walk you through it. There's so many different ways to make a prop that it would be useless trying to explain before we know what you are looking for.

If you are thinking about making a simple pop up that can be done by using a long stroke air cylinder, 18 inches to 24 inches or with a 5 to 8 inch air cylinder and linkage.

I personally don't think this is the right forum/topic to go into all of it because that would be rude to Calvin by changing direction of a topic he started. This is Calvin's How - To on how he made his PVC Air Cylinder. This shouldn't be turned into anything else. 

I also don't think people should be injecting their personal opinion on how safe the PVC Air Cylinder is or isn't. Sure there is a place for that but not on a HOW - TO started by another forum member. If someone feels so strong about a safety issue then they should do their own How - To and explain why it's unsafe and maybe put a little fact into it....instead of just their beliefs. Don't hijack someone Else's How-To.....like I just did.

Anyways if you want help start a topic on the prop building forum with a general ideal of what you want to make....I'm sure you will get plenty of help.


----------



## bmhughes (Oct 12, 2009)

*How are you introducing the air...*

in to the prop to activate it? Simple electric air pump? This seems awfully noisy to have an air pump running so I'm certain I'm missing something. Also, what makes the prop go back down/reset?

I'm new to the prop building business and I'm still trying to learn the basics.

Thanks for the tutorial. Good stuff.


----------



## Calvin (Sep 9, 2010)

bmhughes said:


> in to the prop to activate it? Simple electric air pump? This seems awfully noisy to have an air pump running so I'm certain I'm missing something. Also, what makes the prop go back down/reset?
> 
> I'm new to the prop building business and I'm still trying to learn the basics.
> 
> Thanks for the tutorial. Good stuff.


I recently made a bunch of progress on this prop and will be posting more pics tonight. But to answer your questions, the air compressor will be located out back with a hose running to my haunt. And this air ram design returns on it's own. It fact the air releases so quickly that I am adding a spring to stop the return from slaming down. Again I'll post a video tonight. I hope it will answer your questions.


----------



## Autopsy (Sep 14, 2010)

Great! Looking forward to it.

Thanks


~{Autopsy}~


----------



## bmhughes (Oct 12, 2009)

Calvin said:


> I recently made a bunch of progress on this prop and will be posting more pics tonight. But to answer your questions, the air compressor will be located out back with a hose running to my haunt. And this air ram design returns on it's own. It fact the air releases so quickly that I am adding a spring to stop the return from slaming down. Again I'll post a video tonight. I hope it will answer your questions.


Answered my question. Thanks for the info.


----------



## Calvin (Sep 9, 2010)

*Update!!!!*

Okie, We left offf with just the basic air ram with the stand. The next thing I did was to attach 2 short pieces of PVC to the tee and put elbows on it for later useage 








[/IMG]

I made these so that it would fit inside a plastic skellie torso I had. I lined up the torso to the top of the ram










And then cut the back side of the torso to fit the top of the ram into it. Keep in mind that the torso will need to slide over the bottom half of the ram shaft










I then attached this thin peice of metal to the front to hold the torso away from the ram so it didn't hit the bottom half of the ram when the prop was coming back down.










Then attach the torso to the ram using zip ties.










the look from the front










next I mooved on to the arm attachments. you can go with permently posed arms here but I wanted to add an element of motion to it. I used a few pvc fittings and a 3" long 1/4" bolt with washers and nuts pictured below.










I drilled a hole through the reducer and put the bolt through it adding a washer and a nut at the end. make sure this is tight because you wont be able to access it later.










then screw it into the other reducer 










now glue these into the elbows on the ram.


----------



## Marcharius (Sep 9, 2010)

Lookin great can't wait for the finished prop.


----------



## Calvin (Sep 9, 2010)

*Update part 2*

now build your arms. i used the plastic skellie arms for the lengths here. drill a 1/4" hole through the arm at the piviot point and slide it over the bolt.










Double nut after the arm leave only enough room for free movement but not to much slop.










Duplicate it for the other side and attach thin cables to the tops in a Y. I used twine only because I havent purchased the wire yet. but it is only for mock up it will need to be stronger for the final prop.










this is the possition of the arms when the ram is down










and this is the position of the arms when the ram is extended.










I then attached the plastic bones to the arms and hooked a wire from the top of the ram to an eye bolt on the wooden base to stop the ram at the top of the extension. then extend the ram to the limit and attach the arm cable to the same eye bolt. So that when the ram is extended the arms are are in their max position. 

In the video below the head that is on it is not the end product i just put it there cause the one Im using isnt ready yet. and I am using about 45 pounds of pressure. the prop turned out kind of heavy so at less then 45 it just kind of half raises and peters out. Enjoy.

If you have any Questions please feel free to ask!


----------



## Marcharius (Sep 9, 2010)

Really cool and great TUT, awsome job.


----------



## SkeletalRemains (Jan 14, 2006)

*Nice Prop*

Excellent work!


----------



## Autopsy (Sep 14, 2010)

That's awesome bud! Going to paint him?

I found some awesome $40-$60 masks on ebay. And I mean KILLER masks! Zombie style. I think I'm just going to use a wighead, one of my zombie masks and stuff it with pillow stuffing for filling. Fog should cover up most of what's below the nape of the mask anyways.

Great job, and thanks again for the tut.


----------



## Calvin (Sep 9, 2010)

Autopsy said:


> That's awesome bud! Going to paint him?
> 
> I found some awesome $40-$60 masks on ebay. And I mean KILLER masks! Zombie style. I think I'm just going to use a wighead, one of my zombie masks and stuff it with pillow stuffing for filling. Fog should cover up most of what's below the nape of the mask anyways.
> 
> Great job, and thanks again for the tut.


I'm only about 70 percent done it is going to be a pirate skellie that pops up from behind a large treasure chest where I will have self serve candy for the tots and when they goto grab the candy, well I hope to give them a memorable scream!!! Lol


----------



## Autopsy (Sep 14, 2010)

ROFL Awesome!

Hey, I got a question bud. I've got mine started.... FINALLY! HAHA.. But I was wondering... how much room did you give yourself on the ram, to the chamber? I mean, the only "Guide" we have on this is the chamber tube, and the RAM itself, right? So, wehre did you cap at your extension? How much of the RAM is still left inside of the chamber?

Thanks

~{Autopsy}~

PS! Ok two questions. What did / how did you seal the ram? You sealed where the T fitting is correct? I was going to use "shoulder" pieces and end cap it, but didn't know if that would create too much air space or something and cause it to not work properly. Also, I thot of putting some expandafoam in the T, to seal it. Would this be good enough?


----------



## Calvin (Sep 9, 2010)

I left about 3" of the ram in the receiving tube at max extension. 

As for capping off the ram, I capped it at the tee. As for using arm sockets to cap if you are going to do it like mine, it should be ok. I wouldn't recomend the expanding foam I just don't know about over time how it would hold up.


----------



## Autopsy (Sep 14, 2010)

Thanks bud! 

I'ma try to finish mine up tonight. I'll post a thread on it if I do get it going.

~{Autopsy}~


----------

