# "Glove" Mold Making 101



## 13mummy (Aug 26, 2007)

UnOrthodOx - wow looks great, can't wait to see the final project. What a cute family you have. =) Where did you get your can of mold stuff from?


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

I buy my latex from here:

http://www.delviesplastics.com/mold_builder.htm

BUT, it's only cheaper for me because they are local and I don't pay shipping. There are other brands out there that are cheaper with shipping. Or, check the phonebook under plastics and call around, someone might have some locally.

And to give you an idea, the first gallon I bought made 4 full size skull molds, and half a dozen shrunken heads, and I still have a bit in the bottom (which is why there's a tipped over can in the one pic)


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## Madame Turlock (Nov 2, 2007)

I am so happy to see you are involving your son in this project.


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

Madame Turlock said:


> I am so happy to see you are involving your son in this project.


Oh, this is HIS project he asked for my help on. 

He's making this for a school project, he has to make a service or product to 'sell' in a mini-society (for monopoly money) which they then get to use in an auction at the end. Max they can spend on making whatever is $20, and they are supposed to fork over the cash (though you know some parents are circumventing those rules, we'll stick to em). So, after he pays the shipping, plaster, resin, and a bit for the latex, we're thinking he can make about 50ish skulls. 40 plaster, 10 resin (clear plastic "crystal" skulls).


(of course, he gets the process down on this school project and I've told him I'll pay him $0.50 for every full size skull he makes me over the summer. Since I'll have 6 molds to do at a time, that's $3 a batch)


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

Ah, think I figured out how to get the pics straight from Picasa, no more re-uploading everyhing with imageshack.. [edit]apparantly not...

Anyway. 

After 2 days of sitting under the hair dryer, the mold is ready. (actually it was ready after one day, but we were busy so it got 2)










Just roll the mold right on down. Kyle found this a little diffficult to get started, but once going, no problems. 










Out pops the 'mother' piece.










We now have a mold!










Time to make up the plaster. We wanted this one a little thin to prevent air bubbles. We're just filling this one up all the way, avoiding the 'funnel' area.

And holding it over one of my old molds to catch any extra, since we didn't know how much this mold was going to take. 










Can't really tell from the pic, but tapping the mold gently to get all the air bubbles up top and popped. 










Then wait till it dries. 

Peeling away mold again...










Ta-da!

We now have 2.


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## Abunai (Jan 28, 2008)

UnOrthodOx, 

Your picture links in post #6 aren't showing up for me. All I see is red "X"s.


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## Madame Turlock (Nov 2, 2007)

What a great Dad you are!!! I would love to see the pictures too but they are not showing on the screen.


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

Hrm...They were working this morning, but not now...

Alright, I'll reload them to imageshack.

Should be fixed now? (at least I can see em)


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## perdidoman (Nov 19, 2007)

OX, Do you think this Mold Builder-Liquid Latex Rubber will work if I want to make a mold of my large painted foam hands?


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

It should work for any non-porous model. Otherwise, you would need to be sure to seal it with either a designed sealer, or lacquer, or something of that sort.

What could potentially cause issues with a hand, might be undercuts. As long as the fingers were fairly close together and somewhat straight, it should be possible. Otherwise, you'ld probably want to go with a 2 (or more) piece mold. 

The larger the item, though, the more you're going to have to look at reinforcing the molds to help them keep the shape, which I'll be getting into as this goes on.


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## perdidoman (Nov 19, 2007)

Thanks for the info. How long have you worked with this product?


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

This is the 3rd year. 

Total now of 8 molds made, soon to be 12 or more. Couple failures in there as well. 4 current working molds. One of which is 3 years old, has produced over 40 skulls, and is showing it's age a bit. Couple others packed away in case I ever go back to that idea.

I also use a bit of it on my shrunken heads.


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## Madame Turlock (Nov 2, 2007)

UnOrthodOx said:


> This is the 3rd year.
> 
> Total now of 8 molds made, soon to be 12 or more. Couple failures in there as well. 4 current working molds. One of which is 3 years old, has produced over 40 skulls, and is showing it's age a bit. Couple others packed away in case I ever go back to that idea.
> 
> I also use a bit of it on my shrunken heads.


Have you noticed any problems with the mold stretching?


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

The list of problems I've had:

The Latex becoming hard and creased when not used for extended times, easily remedied by soaking them in some hot water for 20 min or so. 

Rips forming in latex. This seems to be a wear issue from number of uses, and possibly from me not getting all the bubbles out when making it in the first place. I have managed to initiate repairs on these, however, and still use the mold in question. 

Occasionally, some plaster bits will stick in the mold and the subject will be a bit pitted as a result. There's a number of mold releases to prevent this, I personally just consider it free aging to whatever, and clean off the bits before starting a new one. I have noticed the molds that start doing this seem to become increasingly more likely to do it again. But, again, I don't mind and haven't really tried to prevent it. 

Loss of elasticity in cold weather. And I mean COLD. Doing it outside in december is not going to work (my garage is not heated).

That's pretty much it. So long as you care for them right, they seem to last a good long time.


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## dionicia (Nov 5, 2006)

Thank you for posting this how-to. 

Have you thought about helping your son make a bit of extra money for the summer on the little skulls with a group buy?


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

If people really want the little ones, I'm sure he'ld be thrilled. But, I'm more interested in having him make more big ones, which we were going to sell (some) locally. We're only making 2 molds of the little suckers. 

I'll be getting more pics up of the bigger mold of the lindberg skull soon. Had to put it together, let it dry, fill in some things, then the camera went all crappy, so I took pics with my wife's camera which didn't show the latex good enough, so I waited till I fixed my camera, now just starting on the mold for it. So, once we get a couple steps down, I'll get more up. (I'm not covering the whole 'get the latex on' steps, just what's different this time)


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

*For a larger Mold*

Alright, i have the larger mold down. 

First, we have the subject, the Lindberg Skull. I personally wanted a toothless skull model, but the steps are the same. 











First step is preparing the model. The Linberg skull has hollow eyes and nose cavities, and the areas right behing the eye sockets where the lower jaw connects. A couple small holes here or there on the underside, and in some of the tooth cavities. 

First, we fill all these with clay. I'm using Crayola Model Magic, but have used play doh and silly putty before, along with more proper clays as well. 

(will be 2 pictures here as well, but they're on another camera right now. 

Now, when applying the latex, most faqs have you just lay this thing flat and paint on from the top. This leaves a large portion of the underside never modeled, and thus never replicated. I personally wanted more detail, and we are first applying latex to the underside. Turn the skull upside down, and you can see just how much of an undercut we are making. Steps are the same as above, except we are brushing on the latex instead of dunking due to size. Let dry, go again, pop bubbles in beteween. 

(this is 3 coats of latex on the bottom)










Now, simply flip over and do the same for the top half of the skull. Making sure to get in the eye and nose sockets as well. You can see we made a little handle area at the base of the upper jaw. I actually punch a hole in this area and hang the things when I am making plaster skulls. 










Now, as this is a larger skull, we need to reinforce the mold to help it hold it's shape under the weight of the plaster we will be adding. We can add this reinforcement anywhere it does not need to stretch, so everywhere along the face, top, and down the sides and back untill they hit the widest portions. Do not add any past where it begins narrowing again, or you'll never get these molds off. 

We'll be adding cheese cloth as reinforcements. Measure and cut the strips you'll need. Brush on a thin layer of latex. 










Now add on the cheese cloth.










Then cover that again with a nice thick layer of latex. 

Repeat for any areas you want to reinforce. 

Here we have the top coated, and the first eye socketgetting it's cheesecloth.


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

I tried to get the nasal cavity too, but couldn't get the cheese cloth to stick in to my liking, so settled for another coat of latex in there. 










Let dry completely before attempting to remove. 

When removing with all these undercuts, I've found the best means is to begin at the back and start rolling.










Just inch it forward leaving the face for last. 










Pull the face out careful not to tear the eye/nose sockets. 

The whole mold tends to be awefull sticky, so I like to leave it sitting inside out for a night or two, making sure to unroll any bits we rolled up so they don't stick to each other. Some suggest using baby powder to prevent this stickiness. No real experience with that, but a little air time always seems to work. 










Be back soon with instructions on how to make nice hollow plaster skulls from this mold, as well as how to color the skulls you make.


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## 13mummy (Aug 26, 2007)

Awesome, keep the info coming...


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## Abunai (Jan 28, 2008)

UnOrthodOx said:


> Be back soon with instructions on how to make nice hollow plaster skulls from this mold, as well as how to color the skulls you make.


I started this project using a Bucky skull yesterday. Looking forward to some finished product pictures.


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

Alright!

I wanted to make sure the recipe was the same for the Lindberg skulls as they appeared just a bit bigger than my older molds. 

This doesn't picture well, so just follow what is hopefully some easy instructions:

To make nice, hollow, plaster skulls with plaster of paris, we need to apply 3 layers of Plaster.

Each layer should consist of 1 cup of plaster powder, then mixed per the package directions. But first, a few notes about plaster of paris in this application:


The instructions (1/2 cup water) are *JUST A GENERAL GUIDE* when making these skulls. You want the the mixture to be about the consistancy of Chocolate syrup. The actual amount of water needed depends on humidity, temperature, and the whims of fate. Add either more powder or more water as needed in VERY small amounts. 
Hot water will set up faster than cold water, which means less working time. 
Dry time, like how much water, varies by the whims of nature.
Best results are had when all 3 layers are done without fully drying in between. 

So, with your mold, measure one cup plaster into a *CHEAP DISPOSABLE PLASTIC CUP*. I prefer solo brand plastic cups, specifically the non-transparent ones. The transparent ones don't last as long. 

Add in the water and mix up with a stir stick of some sort. We like chop sticks. And pour this into your mold, scraping the side to get as much as possible into your mold. Set that cup aside for reuse, *DO NOT rinse*. 

Now just tip your mold around and swirl that plaster into every area. It will stay there in a thin layer. Once done, set aside to dry. I like to prop mine in a bowl to prevent flat spots. 

Now, as dry times are variable, keep that plastic cup handy. About 15 minutes, check the cup by gently squeezing the side where you poured and there's a bit left over. If it cracks but goes back to form, it's not ready. If it cracks and pops off, it's time for layer 2. Simply pop all the plaster out of the cup, and repeat. Again leaving the cup as a guide for when it's time for layer 3. 

*IF FOR SOME REASON YOU HAVE TO LET A LAYER COMPLETELY DRY.* Like, say, overnight, or a few hours. It's important to dampen up the layer in the mold or the new plaster will not cover the entire area. 

AFTER layer 3. We'll want to let it dry just a bit longer than the previous layers, and can even allow it to dry completely before removing the mold. 



Now then. On to coloring. 

I use good old Minwaxe oil based stain. Right now, we have "Ebony" and "Red Mahogony" in el cheapo spray bottles (since the sprayer for my maple broke). 

Take the neccessary precautions against getting it on you:








(the glasses were overkill, but funny)

Now, first thing is to SOAK our dried out plaster skulls. 


Simply grab a skull, choose a color, and spray a bit. 








THEN smear it around with your hands. 








And...try not to get it all over your face...








All in a day's work...








Now, in the inevitability you DO get it on your hands/face/arms. For some reason Huggies baby wipes are SUPREMELY effective at removal. (with some scrubbing)


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

Now, you'll have to forgive a little of the TV bake show magic here. Most these are skulls of my previous molds, not the lindberg one. 

Coloring full size ones is really no different. 

I like to set em up upside down on the grass and fill em with the garden hose. 









Then it's simply spray.










Smear.










Dry. 










A few of the finished products. 


















It's important to note that just because a skull breaks when removing it from a mold, all is not lost. Some of my favorites are broken skulls.










And, the first out of the lindberg mold.


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## Abunai (Jan 28, 2008)

Outstanding work. 
I'll let you know how mine come out. 
I'm hoping to be able to shoot some Great-stuff foam into the mold, seal it up tight, and produce some lightweight foam skulls for use on walls, tombstones, etc.


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

I've had very mixed luck with greatstuff in these. Ruined the first mold with it, had some others that just didn't skin over right. 

First, do not seal it tight. The expansion has to go somewhere. Leave a small area for that 

Second, some kind of mold release is probably warrented. I'ver heard liquid car wax works well, but haven't experienced it. 

Third, you need some kind of mothermold (outer shell), or the latex will just deform.

Good luck, and let us know how it goes.


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## Handy_Haunter (Oct 14, 2007)

Thanks so much for putting this tutorial out here! I've been looking at a lot of mold making tutorials, and hadn't found anything that was even close to economical till this.


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

Hmm, apparantly I can't go back and edit some of my older things, only what I've posted recently, so here's the missing pics and the info on prepping the Lindberg skull. 

First, the eyes and nose were hollow, and needed to be filled. I was also worried about the nose bone being too thin, so we made one out of clay and covered it in the same glue we used to glue the top on, then sanded down as much as possible. 










On the underneath there were lots of little holes. We plugged all those in and filled in the holes behind the eye socket.


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

Handy_Haunter said:


> Thanks so much for putting this tutorial out here! I've been looking at a lot of mold making tutorials, and hadn't found anything that was even close to economical till this.


Thanks! 

Speaking of economical. I was in Micheals this last weekend, and noticed they are now carrying Mold Builder as well, in small jars.

http://www.michaels.com/art/online/displayProductPage?productNum=gc0514

I'm forgetting the price, but with one of those Sunday coupons, it's gotta be awefull good. I'ld estimate that jar as being roughly enough to make 1 mold of a full size skull. 

With another coupon, the Plaster of Paris there would be killer cheap as well. Probably get both the mold builder and a bucket of plaster for $10 or so. The bucket should make 6-8ish skulls IIRC (we use 40lb bags these days).


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## Pennywise (Oct 21, 2004)

WOW. This is a great tutorial, but I went to Michaels and they want $14 for a 16 oz can of mold builder. I can't swing that right now. I would need at least 2 cans of it


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

Yeah, it's not worth it without one of the 40% off coupons. 

Delvies Plastics has the best prices I've seen (they're local for me, so no clue what shipping will cost.)

But, $7 for the 16 oz, $11 for a 32 oz, or $36 for a gallon: mold builder liquid latex rubber


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## Pennywise (Oct 21, 2004)

Those are much better prices. I wonder where to get the 40% off Michael's coupons...I'll have to check my local newspaper


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

Yes, typically the Sunday papers. There were 2 in the newspaper here this week. One for this week, one for next. Unfortunately, Michaels doesn't do online coupons often/at all


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

At the request of my kids, and a few others, in honor of the movie, I am making a bunch of crystal skulls. And, it's going to be a rather more complex mold in some ways, so I'll be getting the pics on it in here as soon as it's finished as well.


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## Dr. Z (Nov 22, 2007)

UnOrthodOx, I was wondering how do you deal with the hole between the temples and the jaw bone? Do you full it with clay too?


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

Yeppers. 

Fill that little hole with some clay. 












sorry for the slow response, didn't immediately catch the question as I've been a little busy, and these forums are hopping lately.


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## Dr. Z (Nov 22, 2007)

No problem UnOrthodOx, got my answer 

Then you got the duplicated skull, do you hole the "clay part" ?


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

I haven't bothered to, no. Just leave it filled in. 

Depending on what you're using, hollowing it back out may potentially break the items, and I've found that virtually no one:

A: Knows that part should be hollow to begin with

B: Inspects the items close enough to notice

C: Has the proper viewing angle to see that part.

It's hardly noticable (the one in the foreground obviously not hollowed if you know what/where to look, can't even tell on the rest if they are or not):


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## gopherbroke (Sep 29, 2008)

UnOrthodOx said:


> Yes, typically the Sunday papers. There were 2 in the newspaper here this week. One for this week, one for next. Unfortunately, Michaels doesn't do online coupons often/at all


I have found that if you go up to the cashier and act like you lost the coupon... they will give the discount to you anyway


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## thud (Jan 22, 2008)

UnOrthodOx said:


> ...
> 
> On the underneath there were lots of little holes. We plugged all those in and filled in the holes behind the eye socket.
> 
> ...


@UOO

Opening up an old thread here...

First off, killer, killer write-up! I've easily spent 12+ hours looking for a skull-casting tutorial that I could wrap my *cough* head *cough* around. (this forum just brings those out in me) Thank you so much for spending the time to create this for the community. My wife will hate the fact that I found a resource for this, as it will eat into my honey-do list time. *heh*

I had a question for you. Any reason you left the big hole in the base of the skull un-plugged?


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

thud said:


> @UOO
> 
> Opening up an old thread here...
> 
> ...


For this method, you need to leave some area underneath to pour the plaster in. I just chose that spot, myself, for the plaster skulls, as I wanted to have the teeth and palet area intact. It's also the best spot for me to fill my hollow plaster skulls with foam so they stick on my stakes. 


For the crystal skull, I needed the back of the head fully enclosed, and so that hole was covered, and I left the area behind the jaw opened.

Here's the photo of the open space I left in the plaster mold:


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## bouncerbudz (May 4, 2009)

This is a great tutorial. I was wondering did u use a release agent to get the latex of the skull in the first place. Or did i just miss it ??? Thanks


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

No, I did not. If you were molding on top of a porous material, you'ld definitely want to, but hard plastic, as my model was, I've never had a problem with. There is a mold release spray available in (most) Michaels stores if you need it. 

As mentioned, I do get some bits of leftover plaster in my molds BECAUSE I don't use a release, but I actually LIKE that look, so do not attempt to prevent it.


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## bouncerbudz (May 4, 2009)

Thanks for answering. So i should be ok with my Bucky skull. And I understand not using one with the plaster, sounds like it keeps it from being too perfect. Great idea and thanks again for the info.


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

Let us know how it goes!


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## ReaperRick (Sep 2, 2009)

Great job with the tutorial and pics!


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## LadyAlthea (Sep 11, 2008)

this honestly is one of the best tutorials on mold making i have seen, and your son is too cute!!!!!

I have a plaster skull i want to try this with. I have a few questions though

you say release agent, would spray on non stick pam work? you know what i mean?

your skulls are hollow when finished, yes? 

you put the cheesecloth on to reinforce the latex mold, that stays on when you roll the mold off the product? sounds silly i know but if i dont ask, i dont know. 

Three or so coats of latex over the mother mold, yes?? 

you say to soak or wet the plaster before painting. why? soak them good and wet or would a really wet rag work ?

this is really a great tutorial. thank you SO much!


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

LadyAlthea said:


> this honestly is one of the best tutorials on mold making i have seen, and your son is too cute!!!!!


Thank you!



> I have a plaster skull i want to try this with. I have a few questions though
> 
> you say release agent, would spray on non stick pam work? you know what i mean?


I've had BAD LUCK with Pam. 

WHAT I WOULD DO (and has worked with CLAY items, haven't tried plaster):

Spray the skull with a clearcoat spraypaint, allow to dry completely, then start putting the latex right on. 



> your skulls are hollow when finished, yes?


Yes, mine are hollow, then filled with great stuff foam to jab them onto stakes. 



> you put the cheesecloth on to reinforce the latex mold, that stays on when you roll the mold off the product? sounds silly i know but if i dont ask, i dont know.


Yes, you put the cheesecloth on the mold, then apply latex OVER the cheese cloth (it's not coming off after that  ) MAKE SURE you only put the cheese cloth on places you will not be needing to stretch later. (top of the head and face, not back of the neck or under the teeth)



> Three or so coats of latex over the mother mold, yes??


1 fairly thin layer to start, 2nd coat nice and THICK, third coat with the cheese cloth again nice and THICK. If you have any areas that are looking thin, add a 4th. And by all means LET THE THING DRY COMPLETELY before you try to take it off. I "bake" mine under my car's windshield in the middle of summer and take em off hot, myself. There is a smell issue if you try that in an oven...not that I've ever tried or anything, no really, dear, I don't know why the oven smells.... (I now have my own roaster oven that sits outside for my projects...)



> you say to soak or wet the plaster before painting. why? soak them good and wet or would a really wet rag work ?
> 
> this is really a great tutorial. thank you SO much!



Well, I STAINED those skulls, not painted. I wanted the oil base stain to go on uneven, so soaking the skulls was a simple way of letting that happen. You'll be surprised how much water dry plaster can absorb... 

If you prefer to paint, I've found dry-brushing to be quite effective.


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## LadyAlthea (Sep 11, 2008)

thank you for the answers! I thought you had to soften the plaster or something, thats why you wet them. 

Im going to try the clear coat spray paint and see how that works. Ill take pics as i go along. 

The skull i have is actually a salt and pepper shaker holder. LOL the eye sockets are kind of large so its good to know you can use clay to re shape them. 

this is the skull i picked up for four bucks.

Creepy Human Skull Salt & Pepper Shaker Set


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

Ooo, I love the oversized eyes. That thing would look FABULOUS as a crystal skull.


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## LadyAlthea (Sep 11, 2008)

how are you making those???


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

Static: Me Crystal Skulls - Page 3 - Halloween Forum

I would not reccomend this as a first attempt at casting and mold-making, however, due to the costs involved. That's also why, to date, I've only made 4. At a good $20-$40 a pop, depending on size, they've been choice models I wanted as crystal. This thing just might qualify, we'll have to see if there's budget.


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## bouncerbudz (May 4, 2009)

Picked up some Mold Builder. Hope to get sometime to work on these this weekend. I was wondering how it went with the expanding foam in the plaster. Did they crack or anything?


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

Ah. 

Yes, I had about a dozen crack my first attempt. The secret to the foam is you want to spray it around the inside in a layer, NOT in one big clump. After I figured that, I've had no problems...I'll see if I got a pic of it...

Edit: Apparantly not. 

Just, make sure you do beads of the great stuff inside, NOT a big clump of it. It expands differently as a big glop than it does as beads.


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## Dminor (Jul 21, 2006)

This might actually be a great solution for making LED flicker candles "bodies"...I have a few PVC candles that I made and really like the shape and glue "wax" drippings, but have had some turn out not so realistic looking. 

I wonder how well this would work to make a mould for additional candles. I suppose I could even make a mould from a real candle and then would just have to bore out the center for my LEDs.

hmmm....It's all coming together now.


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## Junit (Sep 1, 2008)

Excellent tutorial UnOrtho!


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## halloween71 (Apr 22, 2007)

Ok I am guilty of bringing up a dead thread.
Ok 1 its a great tut and 2 I have a question.
I bought a plastic ice mold from micheals it is just a half of a skull.What can I use to fill it to make skull...plaster?Or would that be to heavy.


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## UnOrthodOx (Apr 24, 2007)

No such thing as a dead tutorial. 


Are you sure the ice mold is plastic? Are there undercuts? (is the mold's opening narrower than the widest part?) 

Pictures are always helpful. 

As for what to fill it with. I suggest getting some mold release, also available at Michaels. http://www.michaels.com/Castin'-Craft-Clear-Mold-Release/Conditioner/gc1704,default,pd.html

After that, you should be able to fill it with plaster, yes. If you're worried about the weight breaking the mold, set the mold on some kind of support before pouring the plaster. I've had very good luck utilizing some spare cloth/towels to act as support for flimsy molds. Just put them in a sink and around so the mold sits properly and maintains it's shape. 











(that is a 2 piece plaster bandage mold, with vaseline as a mold release, plaster poured into it. Turned out great, and I did a second with no problems as well. dirt cheap lifecasting)


Plaster of Paris gets warm as it dries, it would be best to remove from the mold while still warm, as it will make the plastic a little more flexible. (or run hot water of ther mold as you remove...either way)

good luck, and post back here when you cast. Love to see how it turns out.


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## Xane (Oct 13, 2010)

UnOrthodOx said:


> No such thing as a dead tutorial.
> 
> 
> Are you sure the ice mold is plastic? Are there undercuts? (is the mold's opening narrower than the widest part?)


The Wilton ice molds this year were thin opaque white plastic, thinner than the cheaper type of clamshell packaging (the kind you can open with a razor blade instead of having to get out the tin snips). More like the trays some Keebler cookies come in. I figure since they can make a big piece of ice they *should* be strong enough to hold plaster too (water is heavy!). I want to say I saw someone else did this in another thread but I could be wrong. They're half-molds, so they have a big wide opening to make it easy to drop the ice out of it. I got the spider but never got around to using it for anything.

Of course you could always make a mold out of the mold if you wanted to make a stronger one. The spider one was rather detailed and I thought the skull was much better than the skull cake mold.


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## halloween71 (Apr 22, 2007)

Yeah those are the ones I got.I got both the spider and skull one.
I will post pictures of them when I dig them out.
Thanks.


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