# Parts for 3-axis skull build



## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

Per skull build list
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Lindberg skull RBC COOP $12
Hitec HS-425BB servos(4) CJS COOP $48
Lexan plate HomeDepot $10
Rod end(swivel) McMaster.com $ 5
Lynx controller Lynxmotion.com $40
VSA BrookshireSoftware.com $55
6VDC Power supply $10 approx​


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## HomeyDaClown (Aug 27, 2007)

These are a good buy (on sale and quantity discounts) and should work fine.
This the the same supply I've been using:

http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G16479


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## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

I should have put this in HalloweenBobs 3axis thread... 

Hey Scary.. your abt 4 posts away from the 500 Club!!! My congrats early!!! Start thinking of a good title for yourself!


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## HomeyDaClown (Aug 27, 2007)

Thanks Captn,

Ut oh, 500 club?
My age is starting to show......
The bones are gettin really dusty


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## DooBeeDooBeeDoo (Mar 16, 2008)

Very useful breakdown, Cap'n, thank you.

Also caught back up with RBC and getting an MO ready for that, so I should be a busy (i.e. happy) guy soon. I smell a friendly competition comin' if most of us on these threads follow through!


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## HomeyDaClown (Aug 27, 2007)

So are we heading (be-heading) for a world record?


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## wilbret (Oct 8, 2004)

Thanks for the list... should be fun!


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## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

A few more parts included, supercedes list at the top of the thread.

With the skull and the servos coming.. you will need: 

Lynxmotion SSC-32 controller board, (does your comp. have a serial port?),
Plastic box (can be electrical box) for Lynx board,
Cat5 socket face plate for above box,
wall-wart, 5-6VDC, 700ma minimum, or computer power supply(best),
lexan(plexi) plate, (I may be cutting/selling these myself, prob $5)
1/4" coarse thread (all-thread) rod(what I used),
1/4" coarse thread nuts,
1/4" rod end(swivels),
1/4" brass compression sleeves,
alum/steel bracket for rod end to lexan plate,
8 short servo linkages(called clevis), can be small rod ends,
box (abt 20), 1" 4-40 nuts/bolts,
Box of Cat5 sockets (be warned, box of 10 is $30 at HD)
Some type of cabling between the servos and controller, most of us use internet Cat5 cables, one end cut off and wired/soldered to the servos. Other end plugs into Cat5 sockets in the box controller is mounted in. Can be 50'-100' roll of Cat5 cable.

Long serial cable between computer and controller(can be up to 100')

If you dont have a serial port on your computer, search eBay for a *USB to RS232 adapter.* They run abt $1 and $6-7 to ship. http://cgi.ebay.com/USB-TO-DB9-RS-232-SERIAL-PORT-ADAPTER-CABLE-RS232-CORD_W0QQitemZ230237614628

There are also PCI to RS232(serial port) cards like this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/2-Port-PCI-Serial-RS232-Adapter-Card-98-2000-XP-Vista_W0QQitemZ200211230296. You can find these at just abt any computer store too. They are called I/O cards. Most have one serial and one parallel port, so it covers both types of controller cards..

If you want to go the parallel port route for Kit74/Parallax boards and dont have a port, you can go with this: http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-USB-TO-DB25-FEMALE-PARALLEL-DB-25-ADAPTER-CABLE_W0QQitemZ260225506269

Biggest point to remember... AVOID sellers from overseas. Will take a month or more to get your item.

From HalloweenBob's 3-axis thread:
I get most of my hardware from http://McMasterCarr.com. Go to that website and enter Part # 59915K271 in the search window for 3/16" rod ends. They are about $5.00 each and $5 to ship.
__________________

I used 1/4" all-thread rods for strength for my build, part # 59915K22 1/4"-28 thread StainlessSteel Rod Ends.


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## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

NowThisIsScary said:


> These are a good buy (on sale and quantity discounts) and should work fine.
> This the the same supply I've been using:
> 
> http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G16479


Looks good, must be really careful about the polarity..


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## bw1 (May 31, 2005)

Captn you know the goldmine is right here in Scottsdale. The bad news is you can't go pick up your order you have to pay UPS to deliver it.


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## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

I think I ordered a color organ from them last year.. I use a computer PS for my stuff, so me it wouldnt affect.


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## HomeyDaClown (Aug 27, 2007)

Polarity??? Haven't you ever heard of a smoke test?

The ribbed side of the zip cord is positive. 
orrr They could run to RadioShack and buy the male
half ($1.00) the plug polarity is on the adapter.


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## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

What? You dont put the leads on your tongue?


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## HomeyDaClown (Aug 27, 2007)

Nope, that only works on 9 volt batteries......
Iffn my eyes light up green, the polarity is fine.

I missed the chance, I could have called myself General Halloween just to confuse everyone


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## HomeyDaClown (Aug 27, 2007)

Now I am seriously thinking of building a CNC router.....checking out plans.

I've got a few old scanners and lots of stepper motors laying around.


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## dionicia (Nov 5, 2006)

So aside from Gym is offering and the skulls and servos, what else do we need to get??? By the way, I already have a kitchen sink thanks.


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## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

Ok, when Gym_Ghost has everythig available, his kits, minus what you'll already have, is abt $58, thats everything -for the skull- 

you will still need, one time purchase of these things:

Lynxmotion controller broad $40, (or $34 with COOP)
power supply for the broad and servos ($$ varies)
serial and Cat5 cables, $30-$40 for both
VSA software, $55 downloadable only
Rum, lots of it... cheaply

Dionicia, arent you glad you live so close so I can tutor you  Actually, we could prob teach VSA to each other... Thats the one thing here that I'm in a fog over...


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## dionicia (Nov 5, 2006)

So long as you don't try to steal me ship, I'm fine with that.


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## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

I'd get a whippin from Madam T, Lynn and Blinky! They'd scratch my eyes out...


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## Crypt Keeper (Jan 31, 2008)

I've noticed you've mentioned replacing the serial cables with CAT5E ...

What lengths have you all run without any problem? 

I'm hoping to get at least 30' Anyone have any experience with this?

What about longer servo jumpers to connect multiple locations of servo's to one control board.

I'm planning on doing a 2 talking skulls with 3 axis, so i don't want them right next to each other, but they will be within a two foot range, I plan on using some multi-conductor cable to bring each cable down into the servo controller area and then from there i was going to use the cat5 conversion method. 

What has anyone else done?


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## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

The serial goes between the computer and the controller, the Cat5 goes from the controller to the skulls. The IESA guys say that serial runs of 75' are ok, I've seen them run 100' with no problems. Cat5 can run abt 300' if i remember right...

Solder the Cat5 cable right to the servos, you can run them (up to 300') apart. What I did for my runs... When I cut the servo lead in half, that gave me 4" to the servo, and 4" with the connector....

The servos were soldered right to the Cat5 cable, splitting the pairs... solid colors were the Command lines. Light striped lines were the power (B+), dark striped were GRND.. 5 pairs, 4 servos, you must use one set of pairs for the power to split the current as a single wire for all that current will melt. 4 light striped = 4 power wires.

The other end, you can do the controller connections may diff ways... I made a box with 16 Cat5 sockets, thats 16 skulls (just enough) you see the face plate has the Cat5 sockets, the end I cut off the servo(withthe connector) was punched into the Cat5 socket and plugged into the board.. The skull has the blue Cat5 cable withthe factory end that plugs into the Cat5 socket on the box. If the Cat5 line isnt long enough, I get an extension. 

Now you could use a roll of Cat5 cable, say 20-50'', cut the length you need and hard wire the line to the skull servos, soldering the servo connector to the other end of the Cat5 line, plug that into the board and no sockets(EXPENSIVE) to fuss with. Either way in not wrong, just depends how mobile you'd want it to be.. If you hardwire it, you could put 20' lines on each and put them as close or far apart as you want, you have the flexibility to do so, just coil up the extra cable.


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## Crypt Keeper (Jan 31, 2008)

What i was referring to was using an adapter which are fairly cheap to go from Cat 5 to Serial and then back on the other end, long pre-molded serial cables are rather expensive, a long cat5 i can make for pennies!

I believe there is an adapter that goes from DB-9 to Cat5E

Anyone have any pictures of their setup for the servo controller with the jacks mounted all in a box? Would like to see it too.


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## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

Why do go back and forth between cable types then, just get the serial, packaged length, say 20', run cheaper Cat5 20'-50'-70' to the skulls. Leave the computer in the house an all... only Cat5 cable goes out the door...

Look back at my post just above, theres the pix


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## Crypt Keeper (Jan 31, 2008)

Thanks captain jack ! 

I like your idea an simplicity! Your right, why go back and forth !


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## HomeyDaClown (Aug 27, 2007)

What no wireless? 

That's sacrilige for a ham!!!


Skull to Captn, Skull to Captn, CQ CQ CQ..................


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## DooBeeDooBeeDoo (Mar 16, 2008)

Roger, Skull, this is Mad Penguin...

Yeah, Scary, that's an idea that I want to play around with. Once I get the basic unit tweaked out, I want to pick the brains of some RC hobbyists I know and start playing with the wireless possibility!

Anybody fluent in RC toys out there?


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## jimmyzdc (Sep 19, 2007)

Captn,

Can you post a wiring diagram on how you connect the Cat5 to the Skull and back to the Lynx? Sorry I need a nice diagram with colors...lol. So just one Cat5 cable per skull? I just don't want to melt anything


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## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

Jaime, heres the wiring setup I use:

Solid color wires = servo control (command) 
Bright striped (grn striped/org striped) wires = B+ (POS), you will need more than one wire to carry the current to the servos.
Dark striped (blu/brwn) = B- (GND)

I cut the end off a 6'(changing to 20') Cat5 cable, split the colors as above, soldered each:

servo's yellow(command wire) to a solid color...
servo's red(B+, positive) to the grn/org striped pair
servo's black(GND) to the blu/brwn striped pair.

The solid brown is used for the jaw servo command. Could be used to power LED eyes.. but then you loose the jaw. The snipped end from the servo wire goes into the controller box. For extra controller servo plugs I am using CD audio plugs.. I have a lot from old computers, just move the outside wire next to the other two and it goes on perfectly. Look at the picture how I used the wire snipped off the servo.

Soldering one end of the Cat5 to the servos leaves the other plug end intact, so it can plug straight into the Cat5 socket, or into a Cat5 cable coupler to lengthen the run. If I think I will need it longer, I can use a 25' Cat5 cable or cut a length off a 50'-100' roll of Cat5. The sockets will have all the control wires punched into the left side of the socket, and the B+ and GND on the right side of the socket..

You can buy a large roll (100'+) of Cat5 cable with bare ends, solder one end to the servos, and install either a Cat5 plug(if you go with sockets), or servo connector(if using a long roll of cat5 wire), on the other end. A 50' roll of Cat5 is abt $25-$30, which is less than the $30 you'll spend for just ten Cat5 sockets. I will be wiring some skulls that way, just have a 20' roll of Cat5 cable soldered directly to the servos, stretching out to the controller box and solder servo connectors to the far end, eliminating the sockets altogether.. I actually think thats the smarter way to go.

It's just personal preference which way to wire these. There is no standard unfortunately, but I think using the solid colors as the command wires, light striped wires(_more than one!!)_for power wires, and dark striped for GND is the best way to split the colors.. Your mileage may vary....

Some have said "_what if a servo dies, how to replace it when its hard soldered??"_ ... well, i have looked for every possible connector for the eight wires, and while Molex 9-wire plugs and sockets would work, each one is $5 or more, each, and it is tough soldering the little pins and sockets before you push them into the plastic housing. Then you need a special tool to push the pins back out to replace the servo, so while you still have to solder, its an easier job, but saves the cost of the Molex plugs/sockets.

Hope that helps..


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## fravak (Dec 11, 2006)

Why couldn't I have thought of this before I stuffed all the boards into my skull??? This would have been sooo much easier!

As an option to the expensive Cat5 sockets, you might be able to find either Cat3 or unrated RJ-45 sockets for less than half the price. I got unrated sockets a couple years back from a big electronics store for about $.75 each that I used to hook up a few serial printers in a friend's restaurant.


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## dionicia (Nov 5, 2006)

Hey Capt'n Crunch, do we need one wall-wart for each skull? Also, do we need one Lynxmotion controller broad for each skull?

Thank you.


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## jimmyzdc (Sep 19, 2007)

Dionicia,

The way I understand it is you only need one power supply per Lynx. And one Lynx can power up to 32 servos or 8 3-axis skulls.

So... it goes like this:

Power Supply --> Lynx ---> Skull
---> Skull​---> Skull etc... (up to 8 skulls)​


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## HomeyDaClown (Aug 27, 2007)

If you are running 32 servos, you'll need enough amperage to cover it.
So it really depends and how many servos you are running. If you are running a or couple of skulls, a wall wart is fine. If you are running 4 or more skulls, you should use a 2 or 3 amp supply or an old computer power supply.


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## dionicia (Nov 5, 2006)

Would the wallwart RBG is selling be enough?


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## HomeyDaClown (Aug 27, 2007)

I don't know the specs on that one.

These are the power requirements for the 425BB servos: 
At 4.8 volts: [FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Sans-serif,sans-serif]8mA/idle and 150mA with no load or .72 watts each
[/FONT]At 6.0 volts: [FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Sans-serif,sans-serif]8.8mA/idle and 180mA with no load[/FONT] [FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Sans-serif,sans-serif]or 1.08 watts each[/FONT]

These are bare minimum ratings and when you put a load on them, the power requirements grow quickly. 

From what I've seen, with a 4.8/5 volt supply and the servos under a moderate load, they will drain 500mA (½ AMP) each, with a 6 volt supply it goes to about 600mA each. 

Most wallwarts are not regulated, which means the voltage output can change with current demand. 
If the supply cannot keep up with demands , the voltage drops and the servos will chatter. 
I always use regulated supplies with servos.

Each servo's load will change as your VSA routine changes, and at some times they can all be under a load.
My current supply is 5.5 volts/ 2 Amps for one skull with 4 425BBs and 2 micro servos.
For more than one skull, I'd consider using an old computer power supply.


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## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

hmmm, I believe that's wot I was recommending .. abt 23 posts back,(#11) savvy??


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## Crypt Keeper (Jan 31, 2008)

I think will help solve alot of peoples questions, i threw this together for you all to see a clear visual way of looking at it!




Notes:

1) Each color connecting the skull and the lynx motion board is 3 SERVO CABLES 
(each servo needs a connection back to the controller board)

2) The power supply (wall-wart) powers the control board and must be sufficient to power the board and the required numbers of servos you will be using. This is the *AMPERAGE or CURRENT* rating of these devices, NOT voltage.

3) You may extend the serial cable (dark blue line top left) up to 75' Without problem . I did some reading online and that is the maximum recommended length for clear data transmission by standard serial cards

4) The length of the servo cables may be increased aswell. I have yet to find anywhere that says the total length they should not exceed. After reading what others have wrote i would NOT exceed more then 50' . 

You cannot send to much current (amperage) to a device but not supplying it enough can and will damage it and the power supply.


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## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

Look at post #28. A single wire isnt heavy enough to carry the current, thats why they are doubled, for both B+ and GND.. The single color wires are sufficient to carry the data(servo command).

yatta-yatta.. 75' is the blah-safe, EISA blah-blah-standard blah-disclaimer for serial cable length, 100' runs may be used('seen it longer myself) but the standard, will-work-every-time length is 75'. If you need more than 100', move the computer closer.. 

Standard Cat5 cable can run 50'-75' no problem, again EISA standard disclaimer, Cat5e(enhanced) can run 100'+.

Computer power supplies.. best source of power you can get without a prescription... You can buy a bench power supply for an electronics store, costing hundreds of dollars and countless lives... if you do other electronics work, it's worth it. A 500watt computer power supply(can be had for $40) would be more than enough to run an army of skulls..hmm, sorta what I'm planning.. Looking on ebay, I can find a a bunch of 500w-600w supplies even in a computer case for cheap!... Mount the controller board in a computer case, run the power wires from the supply to the board, you even have a built-in on/off switch..


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## wicc_ed (Apr 12, 2008)

Aw man... I need 2 wires for both + and - ?... ok when is 10 twisted pair gonna be a standard? My 3 axis have jaw and eye movement! Guess I will have to zip a length of speaker wire or something to the cat 5 for the power. Or do they make a heavier wire.. I dont know.. cat6 or 7 or something?


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## jimmyzdc (Sep 19, 2007)

I think Cat7 is the same as Cat5 and Cat5e. The only difference is that there is shielding around each pair of wires and the whole cable itself instead of the just the entire cable like Cat5 has.


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## wicc_ed (Apr 12, 2008)

ah ok, thanks for the info


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## CaptnJackSparrow (Jul 5, 2007)

wicc_ed said:


> Aw man... I need 2 wires for both + and - ?... ok when is 10 twisted pair gonna be a standard? My 3 axis have jaw and eye movement! Guess I will have to zip a length of speaker wire or something to the cat 5 for the power. Or do they make a heavier wire.. I dont know.. cat6 or 7 or something?


Ye be needin ta read thru the thread fer the wiring code.. Fer 3-axis, ye not be needin' any other wires 'mate. Solid colors be fer servo control, one pair of (LIGHT color) striped for B+, one pair of (DARK color) striped for GND.. wha' else ye be needin then? Ta add eyes, ye 'ave to jes' be addin a _*single*_ wire for control only, B+ and GND be twisted with th' others.


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## dionicia (Nov 5, 2006)

Here's a challenge for you. I thought about having one of my skeletons interact with the Hellions when they want candy. At one point, I want it to maybe spray them with water as the "Trick" then laugh and offer them the candy. 

I bought a spitter pressure mat last year and didn't get a chance to set it up. I wonder if that might work with the skeleton. What do you think?


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## wicc_ed (Apr 12, 2008)

So your wanting to incorp the mat with the skull? or use a different means of spitting? Tell me more about the matt... how does it work? (ie do you plug it in and a motor pumps the liquid, or does it squirt because of the weight added to the mat?) 
How are you wanting the skull to interact? Will it autodetect the TOT, or will you activate by remote or with a mouse when you see them?


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## dionicia (Nov 5, 2006)

NowthisisScary made up a spitter and a spitter with a pressure mat last year. I bought one but ran out of time. http://halloweenforum.com/showthread.php?t=63242

I thought it might be funny to connect one to one of the skulls. The skulls are pretty much going to be my big project for this year. 

The way you describe it, it might be too complicated to integrate into the skull to interact with the Hellions at this time as I am a total rookie on the 3 axis skulls.


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## Dark Hawke (Sep 22, 2007)

*LED Eye's*

For my skull I would like to have color changing eyes. Perhaps a couple of colors. I know that the BoC has this ability. At this time I'm not using the BoC.

I would like to change the intensity and color if possible, use the 5v dc power supply for the servos and board if possible.
Controlled by VSA of course

any suggestions?


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## dionicia (Nov 5, 2006)

Wow. You gotta take pics.


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